Pacific Northwest - Summer Sojourn 2014

[Pmount]

Sunday, June 29
Start & Finish: Centralia, WA

More rain forecast for mid-day so we decided to stay put for another day. After getting a haircut and some stocking up we went to downtown Centralia. What a wonderful surprise! Lots of active stores, including a number of antique stores. As we walked around we noticed an 'army' of volunteers power washing the sidewalks. It was a community and family effort. What a cool tradition.

Sidewalks Awash - power scrubbing


Downtown Centralia


Centralia also has a McMenamin's hotel, theatre, pub and billiards room in the re-stored Olympic Hotel. Always a treat to enjoy a drink and food at any McMenamins.

Olympic Hotel - McMenamin's


Monday, June 30
Start: Centralia, WA
Finish: Kid Valley, WA

What a difference a day makes - sunshine! Not only sunshine, but warmer temperatures. Over the past 2 weeks the temperature has been in the 60s, fairly comfortable with a shirt or jacket when the wind was blowing. Today the forecast was for upper 70s, clear and light breeze, summer has finally arrived. You know it is bad when all of the locals we spoke to over the past several days were also despondent over the weather.

Our destination was Mount St. Helens Volcanic National Monument (USFS). We think this is our 6th visit since the late 1980s, or since the eruption on May 18, 1980. Each time we come back we notice the change in the landscape, more areas looking more forested. Our first couple of visits were limited to a short distance from I-5. In 1997 the USFS opened the Johnston Ridge Observatory, 50 miles from I-5 and within 5 miles of the crater. I am so glad we stayed back a day because the views today were spectacular. This is the first time we were able to see the whole crater and over to Spirit Lake.

Mount St. Helens


Royal Beardtongue



While up there I completed the Junior Ranger booklet, which included a ranger talk. Ranger Jim gave a dynamic presentation about the events leading up to the eruption. He kept a diverse group of adults and kids engaged for over 30 minutes standing outside at the view area.


Tuesday, July 1
Start: Kid Valley, WA
Finish: Swift Campground, E of Cougar on FS 90

Down the road from the campground was a menagerie of farm animals. When we set up camp yesterday morning we heard a couple of roosters crowing or some such vocalization, we also heard it prior to going to bed. We assumed it would start at daylight, which has been 4:30. Nope - 3:30 AM! Luckily by closing the window in the van we were able to drown out the noise and sleep until our normal waking time.

Kid Valley campsite


Be careful what you ask for - sunshine and warmer days. Forecast was for 90 degrees throughout Washington today. As part of a commemoration of the 30th Anniversary of the eruption, in 2010 Cowlitz County issued a special passport to be stamped at locations surrounding the volcano. My husband had picked it up in 2010 as we were leaving the area. He brought it on this trip and the plan to get as many of the stamps as we followed the route around the area. In 2 days we have found that some sights still have the stamp unique to their site and others did not.

Today we went south on I-5 from Castle Rock to La Center, just north of Vancouver. In La Center we stopped for a tasty Mexican lunch. We followed some back roads east to Amboy to the Headquaters of the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument for their stamp. We picked up WA 503 to Cougar, a small commercial area serving the recreational area. We then continued east on FS 90 along Yale Lake and Swift Reservoir. At the east end of Swift Reservoir we camped at Swift Camp, sponsored by the utility company that built the dams. A few campsites left, but 4th of July activity was evident.

After setting up camp we visited the Pine Creek Info Center (USFS). The volunteer working the counter had been camping on the east side of the volcano at Bear Meadows on May 18, 1980. He had a camera set up on a tripod because the mountain had been active, but of course no one knew when it was going to erupt, just soon. On the counter he had a 14x18 poster of a series of pictures he took as the eruption happened. Amazing! Really cool to speak to someone who witnessed the entire event and had it documented in photos, about 24 photos. The massive landslide occurred first, then the eruption of steam and ash. He also had a small albums of his photos from that day which he showed us. Well worth a stop at this office/gift store.

Wednesday, July 2
Start: Swift Camp
Finish: Iron Creek Campground (USFS), near Randle, WA

We have been in new territory since we left I-5 at noon yesterday. This trip around Mount St. Helens has been on we have always wanted to do, but it never worked into our plans. We followed FS25 north along the east side of Mount St. Helens and took the Windy Ridge Road to the end, the closest you can drive to the volcano. The weather was staying nice. There ewe also several views of Spirit Lake. Also an interpretative sign about the photos I wrote about yesterday.

Mount St. Helens


Interpretive Sign


Spirit Lake


Mount St. Helens from Windy Ridge


Back on the road north we stopped at Iron Creek Falls for lunch and an easy walk down to the falls.

Iron Creek Falls


We ended the day at Iron Creek campground (USFS), near the end of FS 25, almost to Rangle. After setting up camp we drove into Rand
le to visit the Cowlitz Ranger station, library time and dessert before heading back into camp.


Passport Stamps
Bonus
- Forest Learning Center
Johnston Observatory
Mount St. Helens Headquaters (Amboy)
Pine Creek Info Station - Eastside
White Pass Scenic By-way
Mount St. Helens -Cowlitz Ranger District

Collectible Tokens
Mount St. Helens - 3

Smashed Pennies
Holfstadd Visitor Center
Johnston Ridge Observatory

Letterboxes
Sunday - 1
Monday - 2
Tuesday - 0
Wednesday - 0

Wildlife Sightings
Townsend's Chipmunk
Ladybug
Pine Squirrel
White-tailed Deer

Turkey Vulture
Common Raven
American Robin
Barn Swallow
Steller's Jay
Osprey
Spotted Towhee
House Sparrow
American Crow
Dark-eyed Junco

[Pmount]

Thursday, July 3
Start: Randle, WA
Finish: Ohanapecosh Campground (NPS), Mt. Rainer NP

We are in Barred Owl country! The past two nights we have been 'serenaded'. The vocalization reminds me of an irritated monkey. A bit disconcerting, at first, when you are sound asleep. We don't have them in AZ, so it is a treat for us.

The heavy forest cover made for great sleeping, until 9 AM. We went back to Randle then east on US 12 into Packwood. A stop for ice and coffee before heading into Mount Rainer National Park. We went into Ohanapecosh to set up camp. In February, when I made the reservation, there were only tent sites available. We sleep in our van, but can park most anywhere. Technically our site is a 'walk-in', but not exactly. Turns out we'll be sleeping with the Ohanapecosh River flowing alongside and behind us! Our table and campsite is across the road, but no further than some regular site. Will work fine for 2 nights.

Camp view- Ohanapecosh


We drove up the east edge of the park to Sunrise, 6400 ft and the closest you can get to Mt. Rainer. It was gorgeous up there. The visitor center had just opened today. I was the first to ask for their Citizen Ranger program, an adult- oriented Junior Ranger program. It took well over an hour to make drawing and observations of trees, birds, peaks and rocks. I have to do the activities at 3 other sites in the park to earn the badge.

Mt. Rainer - view at Sunrise


Glacier Lily


Friday, July 4
Start & Finish: Ohanapecosh Campground, Mt. Rainer NP

Full campground, but quiet start to the morning. Worked on the Junior Ranger booklet and finished the Ohanapecosh Citizen Ranger Quest for this location. Time for showers, had to go back into Packwood to a private RV park, no shower facilities within the park. While driving there saw an elk grazing and a Bald Eagle flying over the highway.

The big event of the day was connecting the Varied Thrush song to the squeaky noise we had heard the other day. While at Iron Creek we heard this persistent loud squeaking, at first we thought it was an RV trailer hitch making sharp turns causing a creaking, squeaking noise. After a while we realized it was probably a bird, but we could not figure out which one. Today we saw the bird closely and when we played the vocalization from iBird we had a match!

Western Tanager



Saturday, July 5
Start: Ohanapecosh campground
Finish: Cougar Rock campground (NPS), Mt. Rainer NP

Another fun, weather-perfect day in Mt. Rainer NP. We left Ohanapecosh and drove west across the main park road. Along the way we stopped at the Box Canyon of the Cowlitz River. An amazing gorge, 115-180 straight down! There is a short 0.5 mile loop that takes you close to evidence of glaciation, grooves in the rock and a bridge to look down into the gorge. There is water rushing through the gorge, it appears to only be a few feet across.

We drove up to Paradise and were able to get a parking place in the lower parking area at 11:30 AM. The upper lot was full and when we left around 2 PM cars were pouring into the area. While there I was able to complete the Junior Ranger booklet and receive the badge. I also completed a third segment of the four-part Citizen Ranger program. Unlike Sunrise and Ohanapecosh I had a choice of activities to select at Paradise. I chose the Wildflower Quest. Thanks to some excellent signage along the walkways and a natural history handout I found this quest relatively easy. We had lunch at the snack bar, not cheap, but a nice break from lunch meat.

Flowers at Paradise - Avalanche Lily


Mt. Rainer from Paradise - Nisqually Glacier


We continued west through the park and stopped at Cougar Rock campground where we had reservations for the next 2 nights. Another busy night in the campground, a bit noisy into the evening.

Sunday, July 6
Start & Finish: Cougar Rock Campground

Blue Skies! 80 degrees forecast!


Another gorgeous day at Mt. Rainer. Even the park rangers were surprised, and pleased with this persistent good weather. We drove down to Longmire. At the Visitor Center I worked on my final quest, Longmire also has several from which to chose. I picked one that sent me on a scavenger hunt, Longmire Amazing Adventures. The park has done a. Rey nice job in designing an adult activity. You could do a couple a day and finish it during a 2 day visit. With each clue I would find the answer, return to get a new clue. We had plenty of time so it was fun exploring this relatively quiet section of the park. Besides the museum, which is the visitor center, there is a Wilderness Center with displays and the National Park Inn which has 25 rooms, a restaurant and store. Much less activity than Paradise!

Mt. Rainer form Longmire


Citizen Ranger Patch


After completing and receiving a very nice patch for the Citizen Ranger program we drove a short distance west and then north up Westside Road. I highly recommend this side trip. There is a good 2-lane gravel/ paved road that ends in 3 miles, any small car or RV can make the trip, however there is no easy turn around. It took about 4 points to turn around our Chevy Express van. After parking you continue up a very short distance on the roadbed to see several spectacular waterfalls to the west. The light was not good for pictures, morning would be a better time to visit for pictures.

Waterfalls along Westside Road


Mt. Rainer - Tahoma Glacier


Back to a very quiet campground! Enjoyed waiting for the birds to come to us.

Monday, July 7
Start: Cougar Rock campground
Finish: Karanskat-Palmer State Park, WA, N of Enumclaw.

Left Mount Rainer NP by the SE entrance and stopped east of Ashford at the Copper Creek Inn for a very tasty breakfast. I got their house specialty of 2 small cinnamon rolls and my husband shared his very large Denver scramble which included hash brown potatoes, homemade bread with raspberry butter and jam. We stopped at the park headquarters for their unique passport stamp, Tahoma Woods.

As we left the park it was sunny and clear, as we headed west the coastal AM clouds blocked out the sun. Our next goal was to go to the Carbon River entrance to Mt. Rainer, the NW corner of the park. We took a series of back roads through small towns to get there. The town closest, Wilkeson, had an old-style stone arch at the town entrance and a number of historic buildings. It advertised Handcar Races the end of July. All of this area is dominated by lumbering, including railroads. The drive up to the ranger station, along and over the Carbon River was pretty. At the end of the road you can walk into the park several miles on an old roadbed. This appears to be a popular backcountry hiking entry point.

We made our way to Enumclaw and finally to Kanaskat-Palmer State Park to camp for the evening. The weather continues to be magnificent. By mid-afternoon the clouds had burned away and there was full sun, about 80 degrees. Tomorrow begins a whole new phase of the trip - see below.

Weekly Stats - 9 days (6/29-7/7)
Miles: 665
Expenses: $469.98


Preview:
I'll be offline for the next 2 weeks. Wed., 7/9 we fly to Anchorage to cruise from Whittier to Vancouver, BC. Then we will be attending the annual meeting of the National Park Traveler's Club in Seattle. We will resume our roadtrip on Sunday, July 20.

Passport Stamps
Mount Rainer National Park
- White River
Sunrise, WA
Ohanapecosh, WA
Paradise, WA
Longmire, WA
Tacoma Woods, WA
Carbon River, WA
Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail - CA, OR, WA
Bonus
-boot imprint at White River Wilderness Office

Collectible Tokens
Mt. Rainer NP - 2

Letterboxes
Sunday -1
Monday - 1

Wildlife sightings
Pine Squirrel
Chipmunk
Ground squirrels
Elk
Black-tailed Deer

Barred Owl - sound only
Common Raven
Dark-eyed Junco
Steller's Jay
Clark's Nutcracker
Chipping Sparrow
American Robin
Mountain Bluebird
American Bald Eagle
Varied Thrush
Western Tanager
Downey Woodpecker
Gray Jay
Red-breasted Sapsucker

[DonnaR57]

Ah, Packwood -- we have fond memories of that little town. We've stayed there twice, once in a motel and once in the RV park. Was the RV park where you used the showers, right next to the public library? (It might not be. That was about 17 years ago.)


Donna

[Southwest Dave]

Loving the report !

I'll be offline for the next 2 weeks. Wed., 7/9 we fly to Anchorage to cruise from Whittier to Vancouver, BC. Then we will be attending the annual meeting of the National Park Traveler's Club in Seattle. We will resume our roadtrip on Sunday, July 20.

Will look forward to it. Until then, have a great time with the Cruise etc.

Dave.

[Pmount]

Just finished the 7 day Alaska cruise. We are definitely road trippers! Can't wait to get back out on the road Sunday!

[Pmount]

Ah, Packwood -- we have fond memories of that little town. We've stayed there twice, once in a motel and once in the RV park. Was the RV park where you used the showers, right next to the public library?

That RV park was still there, but appeared to be barely functioning. We drove west on US 20, past Packwood, to Cascade Peaks RV. Showers were $3 and adequate - plenty of hot water and spacious stalls.
-Pat

[Pmount]

Sunday, July 20
Start: SeaTac, WA
Finish: Fort Ebey SP, Coupeville, WA

Finally back on the road! It was an interesting 2 weeks, just glad to be out on our own exploring the country. We left our fancy hotel across from SeaTac airport and headed north to Mulikteo to take the ferry to Whidbey Island. We love the Washington State Ferry system; cost effective and efficient!

Once on Whidbey we stopped at Fort Casey State Park for a couple of passport and bonus stamps. The lighthouse acts as an interpretative center and has great displays. Washington and Oregon both have an annual state parks pass that costs $30 and can be shared by 2 cars, at different times. We were loaned one while in Oregon. In Oregon we would have spent $15 on state park fees. Most waysides along the coast are free and if you are camping the daily fee is not charged. However in Washington we should have bought the pass, we have in the past and then given it to a resident as we left the state. Each state park charges a $10 daily fee. We've paid it twice and hopefully will not want to enter a state park by the time we leave the state mid-week. We'll see.

We found camping at Fort Ebey SP, near Coupeville. The town area is very quaint with a number of business along a couple of blocks facing the water. After visiting the museum we drove out to the main site for Ebey's Landing NHP, Jacob Ebey's house. You park near the town cemetery and walk 0.3 mile to a structure he built in 1859. He was in his 60s, had fought in the War of 1812 and the Mexican War, he then led a group of settlers cross country to settle this area. The Preserve highlights this rural farming community.

We very much enjoyed an evening in camp fixing a simple dinner and enjoying our campsite! Low 60s, overcast, no rain.

Monday, July 21
Start: Coupeville, WA
Finish: Altira campground in Olympic NP, SW of Port Angeles, WA

Nice quiet evening, much quieter than any motel we stayed in before or after the cruise. I have to admit the rooms were very quiet on the cruise ship, no noise from the halls or above or adjoining walls.

Enjoyed our morning routine in camp, on the road by 10 AM. Took the WA State Ferry from Coupeville to Port Townsend. Reservations are recommended, but were not needed Monday AM. Great price at $15, they give a senior discount for over 65. Very congested and slow going on the Olympic Peninsula - WA 20 West and US 101 South into Port Angeles. Quick stop to top off at Costco in Sequim, 20 cents less than any other station. No bagged ice at this location.

On the ferry


First stop in Olympic National Park was the main visitor center in Port Angeles for park newspaper, tokens, Junior Ranger booklet and passport stamps. Continued into the park up to Hurricane Ridge, an easy, uphill windy 17 mile road. The road is well-designed and without rushing took about 1/2 hour. At the beginning it did not look like we would see anything at the top because of cloud cover, but we drove through the clouds and had beautiful views.

Hurricane Ridge


Blue Glacier on Mt. Olympus


Back down, part way, to a road across the park to another section, Elwah Valley. This was a new area for us. We drove up to the end to camp at Altira campground. Only 31 sites and half-full at 4 PM. As I write this at 7:30 PM the campground has just filled. The sites are along the Elwah river. This is a river that is being returned to it's natural state; one dam has been removed and another is in the process of being deconstructed. Almost immediately a return of salmon up the river was noted. We are back in alpine glacier country, as evidenced by the glacial silt in the river that gives it that unique blue-green color. Great evening in camp, perfect temperature, mid-60s and clear.

Elwah River


Tuesday, July 22
Start: Elwah, WA
Finish: Falls Creek campground (USFS), Quinault, WA

Another day exploring Olympic National Park. This is our third visit to the park and have either spent time in the Port Angeles or Hoh Rain Forest area. After being cooped up the past 2 weeks we were ready to see some sites. (oK, we saw some great sites in Alaska along the cruise, but finding them on your own is better, for us.) The Eastern National passport stamp program has also greatly expanded in this park since our previous visits so we decided to visit some of the outlying areas. The weather was perfect. Back to US 101 S to the Lake Crescent area. The lodge on the lake has a stamp, what a beautiful, old lodge. The main room's interior is finished in a variety of woods, very inviting.

Lake Crescent


Storm King Ranger cabin


We continued around the park with a stop at Sol Duc Hot Springs. Again there was a stamp at the registration desk. The hot springs have been diverted into several modern pools open to guests and the public. There were numerous cabins for rent, as well as a private and NPS campground. The drive up and back to 101 was along another pretty river.

Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort


Sol Duc cabins



Back to 101 and then way off the beaten path out to Ozette Lake. The drive out takes you through Clallam Bay, along the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Across the straityou could see Vancouver Island. Once at Ozette Lake we had a picnic lunch and watched several groups of backpackers finish and begin hiking the Coastal Trail. To get out to the coast from there it was a 3 miles walk along a boardwalk. As the ranger station was closed, as several have been due to limited funds, my husband left a SASE requesting that a passport stamp with today's date be mailed. He has fairly good success in getting them back when he does this.

Back to 101 and then over to Mora. This area was a delightful surprise. Well-staffed ranger station with friendly rangers. There is a great picnic area/parking lot right on the beach. The beach is piled us driftwood, some full-sized trees. The coastal view is beautiful; islands and picturesque rocks in the distance.

Mora coast


On your way and back from Mora you drive by a small store which has some unique signs. If you are a Twilight fan it has meaning, if not it is a puzzle, why here?

Vampire warning


We continued into Forks and found more Twilight connections. We also got an ice cream cone, smashed pennies and found a letterbox. All the things that make road trips fun for us!

Forks, WA business


Continuing south on 101 we came back into a stretch of Olympic National Park that reminds me of the rugged Oregon coast, Kalaloch. A quick stop at their small visitor center for that passport stamp. We didn't stop, but the lodge there has smashed pennies.

We ended the day at another new location for us, along Lake Quinault. The north shore is in the park, the south shore where we were is Forest Service. We camped at a small campground, Falls Creek, which is easy walking distance to the Lake Quinault Lodge, Mercantile and USFS office. We enjoyed dinner at camp then walked to the lodge to enjoy a beer on the back patio, overlooking a large green lawn out to the lake. This is another old lodge that has been well-maintained. On our way back to camp we were able to locate 2 letterboxes. A great way to end the day.

Beer view @ Lake Quinault


Wednesday, July 23 - our 35th Wedding Anniversary
Start: Quinault, WA
Finish: Roseburg, OR

We woke up to rain, as predicted. We had a hearty breakfast at the Quinault Mercantile. Their Tall Stack of pancakes is four, dinner-plate sized. As we were leaving the kids next to us were each getting their Tall Stack, it was discussed if this was going to be a community effort to complete.

We left the area and did not get the smashed pennies at the lodge, next visit. It rained steady and hard all the way down US 101, E on US 12, then S on I-5. Before reaching I-5 we got gas at a Shell Station on an Indian Reservation for $3.63, the cheapest we had or did see. Once on I-5 the rain got worse at times. We saw several bad accidents on the NB side with extensive back-ups of traffic. We lucked out and had no delays. We stopped in Ridgefield, WA going to the Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge for the Blue Goose stamps. We had hiked there several years ago and enjoyed the area, no hiking today. Lunch was also in Ridgefield, at Vinnie's Pizza - excellent calzone & meatball sub.

Back into the rain and crossing back into Oregon. South of Portland the rain finally started to let up. Near Corvallis we took another short trip off I-5 to drive through the William L. Finley NWR and stopped at their visitor center. Great area within the Willamette Valley. Saw a Northern Harrier swooping low over the fields.

Back to I-5 north of Eugene, stopping for the day in Roseburg. We have spent time here before. Enjoyed an anniversary dinner at Roseburg Station, another McMenamin's re-purposed building, an old train station. A big driving day for us, over 360 miles.



Passport Stamps
Ebey's Landing National Historical Reserve-Whidbey Island, WA
Olympic National Park
-Port Angeles, WA
-Hurricane Ridge
-WIC PA, WA
-Elwah Ranger Station
-Mora, WA
Eagle Ranger Station
Sol Duc
Kalaloch, WA
Lake Crescent
Ozette, WA
Quinault Rain Forest



Bonus
Admiralty Head Lighthouse, Ft. Casey, WA
Admiralty Head Lighthouse, Coupeville, WSU Island County Extension
Ebey's Landing National Historical Reserve
Ebey's Landing National Historical Reserve - Passport 25th Anniversary
Olympic National Forest - Quinault, WA
Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge
Arthur Finley National Wildlife Refuge


Collectible Tokens
Olympic National Park -2

Letterboxing
Tuesday - 3
Wednesday - 1


Wildlife Sightings
Black-tailed Deer
Chipmunk
Pine Squirrel

American Bald Eagle
American Crow
Common Raven
American Robin
House Sparrow
Great Blue Heron
Pacific Wren
Red-shouldered Hawk
Dark-eyed Junco
Five-stripe sparrow
Rufous Hummingbird
Glaucous-winged Gull
Wilson's Warbler
Sooty Grouse
Turkey Vulture
Canada Goose
Northern Harrier
Belted Kingfisher

[Mark Sedenquist]

Happy 35th Wedding Anniversary!

loving the photos and the descriptions.

Mark

[DonnaR57]

Happy anniversary! I'm enjoying your trip log!



Donna

[Pmount]

Happy anniversary! I'm enjoying your trip log!



Donna

Back at you - glad to see you made it home and achieved all your goals. You added a few new spots for us to add to our list of future destinations.
Thx, Pat