From the moment I throw open the curtains, it’s clear that today’s going to be very different. There’s been snow overnight, the peaks are lost behind low clouds and it’s noticeably colder, so cold in fact that there’s rough, pitted ice beneath the two or three inches of white stuff that’s settled on the car.
As we hit the road, the wind begins to pick up, drifting the snow to and fro across the road like marine flora wafting in the ebb and flow of the tide. It makes for a spectacular drive – particularly the side trip to look for
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