DAY 2: NOVEMBER 1st: ALL SAINTS DAY


The Rv lot behind the San Ramon


Just like the previous day, most of the festival action was going to be in the evening, but considering how easy it was to hop a bus in to town, that’s exactly what we did, figuring we could get breakfast in one of the cafes around the Plaza.



We had the bus schedule down pat: they passed by the hotel every 30 minutes. The bus driver was already starting to recognize us, and greeted us a friendly good morning!




It was still early in the day, but the streets near the plaza were already crowded.








Papel Picado, vibrant colored paper squares trimmed into intricate patterns, are prepared by the hundreds and used to decorate the ofrendas, as well as the stage.



PREPARATION:

Because the city is so widely known for its Dia de Los Muertos celebration, there’s a fair bit of preparation required, in anticipation of large crowds coming in from Mexico City, among other places. Local residents work together to prepare the decorations that will brighten the plaza. There are depictions of skulls everywhere, and marigolds by the ton, including loose petals that form a carpet on the stage that will be used for performances. Once all that is set? The celebration begins in earnest!











Streamers hung with Papel Picado squares converge toward the stage, fluttering in a gentle breeze. (Good thing it didn’t rain!)



San Miguel’s iconic neo-gothic church, the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, provides an elegant backdrop to the activities in the Plaza Allende. The church was first built more than 300 years ago, with several subsequent phases of construction. The pink limestone facade was added in the late 19th century, created by an indigenous stonemason who was inspired by postcard photos of the cathedrals in Europe. I’d say he did a masterful job of it!



The Parroquia is a Catholic Parish church dedicated to St. Michael the Archangel. With those baroque pink limestone towers, it’s photogenic as the dickens! It’s one of the most photographed landmarks in all of Mexico, drawing shutterbugs from far and wide. (Including me!)

The Parroquia de San Miguel can’t be called a Cathedral, despite its imposing size, because San Miguel de Allende does not have Bishop, and that’s a requirement for a cathedral in the Catholic hierarchy.



The Parroquia is in daily use as a parish church, holding services, hosting weddings and funerals. So much more than a mere monument, more than an iconic building; it’s truly the spiritual heart of the community.









Many of the shops have Los Muertos style decorations around their doorways, heavy on the marigolds.





Skeleton-themed window displays add to the ambience. They’re for sale, and they make terrific souvenirs!



Christian themes form an uneasy alliance with the death heads of the Dia de los Muertos. The skeletons are not intended to be demonic. Death comes to us all, a basic fact of life, not something to fear.

Next up: Ofrendas and Catarinas