Chasing Cars: Houston/Talladega (and the Deep South/Texas)

[UKCraig]

Yes - I did know of its fame.

They're all getting in on the act it would seem!!

I was planning to camp tonight but, due to the weather turning nasty as I drove down the I-40, I'm currently at the Super 8 just outside Memphis, Tennessee. I'm actually in the middle of a truckstop. No, wait, it's more like a military transport depot three hours after the troops come over the border from Mexico... I've never seen so much vehicular movement!!

Anyway, going to upload some photos to my Flickr page and will then try and put another update on here. The internet connection is somewhat better today thankfully!

[UKCraig]

My word, that was hard work! I've uploaded some photos here if anyone is bored enough to want to look!

Day 6

Leaving the motel in Hope, Arkansas I decided to stay off the I-30 and use the local roads to reach my frst stop of the day, Crater Of Diamonds State Park. I had seen this park on the TV and had pondered over visiting, unsure of whether I loved it or hated it, deciding the only safe way to know was to just go for it and visit it. Good old Microsoft was steering me in the right direction until it took me off the main road and along a narrower road. After four or five miles it insisted I should be taking a right turn but there was no turn to take... was there? Turning around I couldn't believe my eyes when I realised it was trying to send me down a forestry road, thick with mud. I am not exaggerating when I say I would struggle to get a Land Rover down there, I had absolutely no chance with a Mustang, so I turned back the way I had come.

After stopping at a real old fashioned gas station to fill my gas tank, and manging to deposit five bucks of gas on the floor due to the thing not cutting out automatically, I finally turned into the state park. As I'd half expected... it was a big fuss about nothing! Just a whole load of mud and a few nutters trying to make their fortunes. One of the staff proudly told the story of a 'regular' who'd made 25k from his finds. I was impressed. Until they pointed out that they have visited every day for 15 years. I'm not sure what the pay is like in that area but, let's be honest, they really should find a proper job!

After milling around for half an hour, hoping someone would strike it rich in front of me, I headed off to the Hot Springs National Park. As well as baseballs, I have taken to collecting the NPS Brochures and, if I'm honest, this stop was pretty much just an opportunity to stop off and tick another park off this list. However, surprisingly, I was quite taken with this place, it was really quite different to what I'd expected, though I'm not entirely sure what I was expecting! The bath houses were really quite pretty, the hot water coming off of the mountains was, erm, [i[very[/i] hot and, rather fantastically, the roads up to the mountain tower were, erm, fantastic - like a mini Nurburgring! I couldn't help but switch off the traction control and powerslide the back of the car through the banked corners as I sped up (and then down) the steep hills. Cool!

Next it was off to Garvan Woodland Gardens which I had read about on another RTA users blog. I was amazed at how cool the Anthony Chapel looked and, when I saw it in person, I was blown away by it. What an awesome place, just a shame that the doors were locked, but I would highly recommend it to anyone visiting the area. I was actually really impressed with the whole place and it was only my desire to press on and get to Little Rock that dragged me away.

I, like everyone, has seen Forrest Gump and, being a Brit, not all of the 'historical bits' made total sense to me first time around. The bit where we see Forrest at Little Rock Central High School especially meant nothing to me until recently. When I read up on what happened there I felt compelled to visit and fill in the remaining gaps. One thing that I hadn't necessarily thought about, with this being a high school and all, is that it is a high school. So, arriving at 4pm was interesting. But at least it gave me chance to see the make up of the students... thankfully segregation is well in the past.

The visitor center next to the school was very well put together and told a fascinating story. I was greeted by a very enthusiastic guy who I chatted to for a bit before he inisted on signing their visitor book. (Why is everyone so turned-on by the fact I'm from the UK?!) My visit was pretty thought provoking and memorable and, for me, ranks up there with my visit to the MLK birthplace.

One thing that stood out for me was the difference between the two NPS sites I visited today - Hot Springs was all about the wrinklies (sorry, can't think of a better description!) and Little Rock was all about youth. Fascinating how the same organisation (NPS) should do such a good job of preserving and documenting such different things.

Leaving town I decided to stop and take a quick peek at the imposing Arkansas Capitol State Building. As I drove around the building I spotted the fantastic Little Rock Nine monument. My photos really don't do it justice - it was very powerful. Unfortunately, as I now realise from Googling this evening, I missed the nearby Vietnam Memorial.

My mind wandering to the subject of where I would be sleeping, I rummaged through the trunk of the car for the 'Arkansas State Parks' guide book that I picked up yesterday. Spotting a nice looking park about 30 miles west of Memphis I sped down the I-40 only to be confronted by a wall of water (and a much wetter one than the one I'd found in Houston!) so decided to press on to the outskirts of Memphis and find a motel instead. Pulling into a Super 8 I was surprised to find that the manager was British and was born and raised just a few miles from where I live. Being bought up to date on the football results and hearing that two British clubs had won through to the final of the Champions League just seemed so random, stood in the lobby of an American motel!

[PNW Judy]

I did my own little roadtrip recently and I should do a report but I know I don't have your knack for words. I feel like I'm right there with ya!

[UKCraig]

Thanks Judy, but I think you're being a little generous, I really don't think I have much of a knack for words. Anyway, you should put something down from your trip - I've actually found it quite fun to put down the days thoughts in this way.

[lhuff]

However, I might be a little miffed that you have 9 thousand pictures of the scantily clad volleyball players and none of me from Houston. :) Although, I admit they looked a heck of a lot better than me, especially after I managed to get myself covered from head to toe with motor oil and bits of tires.

Your pictures are really good. Now my competitive side is coming out and I'm going to have to figure out the whole online picture thing for my upcoming trip.

A friend of mine got married in that Chapel at Hot Springs and the pictures were just absolutely wonderful.

Safe travelling!

Laura

[Mark Sedenquist]

I'm going to have to figure out the whole online picture thing for my upcoming trip.

Laura, one of the other RoadTrip Advisors, Cool, is using this site for posting journals and photos -- it is very close to what we tried to create with our own RoadTrip Report -- (a software product no longer under development). We would prefer, of course, to have you post here and if need be, send me the photos and I will size them for you....

Mark

[lhuff]

Laura, one of the other RoadTrip Advisors, Cool, is using this site for posting journals and photos -- it is very close to what we tried to create with our own RoadTrip Report -- (a software product no longer under development). We would prefer, of course, to have you post here and if need be, send me the photos and I will size them for you....

I stumbled on that site a few days ago. But, I'd rather post my reports here since I "know" most of you.

I am so horrible at the fun technology. I spend all day on the computer at the office and can figure out any and all accounting or other office type software. But put something cool in front of me like music or photos and I freak.

I like the way Craig has put his photos on Flicker (sp?) and linked them to his reports. You can look if you want or can be really nosey and look at all the photos. But, all I've ever managed to do is download photos onto my computer and send them as e-mail attachments.

Laura

[UKCraig]

Flickr is really really easy to use - even I can use it - just open an account and have a play with it if you have a quiet day at work.

Here's yesterday's report which I composed sat by the side of a lake on a state park! Apologies for the ridiculous long length of it, I got a bit carried away. Today was quite a quiet day so, when I post something up about that later, you'll have an easier time reading it!!!

Anyway:

Day 7

My cold is finally starting to wear off, but that didn’t mean that I managed a good nights sleep, the noise from that truck stop was incredible. How do the truckers themselves sleep?! Oh, and I’m sure there were nasties living in the bed itself… eww! I woke up itching this morning so had a very good scrub in the shower before getting the hell out of there. I think I’ll be laying off the budget motels for a bit…

Having listened to everyone’s advice to head to Graceland as early as possible in the morning, so as to avoid the crowds, I chose to totally disregard it! I don’t like to appear rude (something anyone who has met me may find hard to believe) but the weather most definitely was appearing rude. Very rude in fact. Despite the announcers on Elvis FM boasting that the sun was out in Memphis, the truth of the matter was quite the opposite, huge black storm clouds hung menacingly overhead.

Deciding to play safe I thought it best to leave Graceland til later and do the outdoor thing whilst it was still dry. So I drove straight to Sun Studio. Closed. After a couple of photos of the exterior I hopped back in the car and headed to the top end of Beale Street and started walking back the way that I had come. Despite it all being very colourful, everywhere was closed. Doing great here. I then spotted the stadiums of the FedEx Forum and Autozone Park and went to investigate - both closed. I found myself outside the famous Peabody Hotel (home to the ducks) but couldn’t really be bothered to visit them as a) I don’t really ‘get’ it and b) they were probably asleep like the rest of this town.

Back on Beale Street I was soon at the end of the ‘tourist’ area and in the middle of some sort of inner city wasteland which, although I’m sure was a thriving area once upon a time, was now entirely closed down. It figures.

Having come this far I decided to ’get a feel for the real Memphis’ and continue walking in the direction of Sun Studio where, I thought, I would treat myself to that nice cooked breakfast that I had missed out on in Dallas earlier in the week, Well, having never been in Belfast in the 1970s, I now have a fair idea what it was like, and now realise why they run free shuttle buses between the various tourist sites, tourists getting caught up in a war zone is obviously going to be bad for trade. But I am sat here this evening, rambling, so they obviously felt bad for the lost looking tourist and left him be whilst they went on with the important business of shooting each other.

Back in Europe, the Germans are infamous for staking their claim to the best sun loungers around the hotel pool by getting up whilst it’s still dark and putting their towels on them and then going back to bed. Personally I never understand why the other guests don’t simply throw their towels in the pool and sit themselves down, but I’m getting away from the point here somewhat, that point being that the Germans can be quite rude and overbearing.

The promise of the breakfast had kept me going as I walked across town but, as I rounded the corner and the building came into view, I was greeted by a bus load of German tourists streaming into the building. Oh hell, I thought to myself, purposely putting the stereotypes to the back of my mind. As I entered the front door I was barged out the way by one of the group who reminded me of a contestant on Supermarket Sweep, she was that desperate to get inside! Having stepped inside it didn’t get any better. With that many people crammed into the tiny building there was no chance of getting a table so the idea of breakfast was out the window. Awesome.

Having walked the streets of death once more and arrived safely back at my car I headed off to the National Civil Rights Museum. I visited the MLK birthplace in Atlanta last year and was really impressed with it, so had really been looking forward to visiting this place. A friend who had visited previously had told me that it was on the ‘dodgy side of town’ and, having now experienced the ‘good side of town’ I decided to lock the laptop securely in the trunk, out of sight, and follow the directional signs. Which was a great idea except someone had apparently stolen the signs! I went round in circles before accidently heading back into Arkansas. Twice.

Once I finally arrived I soon realised that the supposed terror of the area around the Lorraine Motel had been vastly overstated! I could have been there an hour earlier but, never mind, at least I got to cross the Mississippi several more times. And discover that there is a museum devoted to metal. Fascinating, I'm sure, but I didn’t stop!

Just like the Book Depository, back in Dallas, I had seen a thousand photos of the Lorraine Motel and it was a strange feeling when I finally laid my own eyes on it. I made my way straight into the museum itself and, once again, was accosted by a local who wanted to know all about England. ‘Aargh, leave me alone, I don’t work for the tourist board’, I thought to myself, as I patiently explained about the entry requirements and work prospects in the UK. I’m just too kind!

The museum was, as expected, very powerful. It was far far too long though and it was a good two hours before I finally saw the light of day again. And that was merely to cross the street and enter the second building. If anyone has actually read every word in these daily rambles, they’d appreciate my frustration as I dragged my aching feet and empty stomach around the exhibits. Don’t get me wrong, I really did enjoy my visit and learned a whole lot, but they really need to find a way to split it down into more ’bite-sized’ parts in my opinion. I don’t actually have any specific suggestions on that front though.

I won’t bore you too much with my trip to Graceland, as it has to be the most over-hyped and over-reported tourist trap in the world, needless to say I was surprised by it. Elvis has never factored much in my life, apart from that time I met him working in my local Burger King and sold my story to the newspaper, of course, but you gotta admire the guys style, so Graceland was one of the first places on my ‘to-do’ list for this trip. My thoughts after the tour? It’s just like the life of the guy himself - over the top and in your face - but I did actually enjoy the experience, even if my wallet did not.

I had no idea where I would be sleeping but, with the weather having turned a corner and looking like it would be dry overnight, I decided that getting the tent out again was the way to go. But where? Thankfully, as with everywhere else I had been on this trip, I had no problem logging on to the internet via an unsecured wi-fi connection and quickly found the Trace State Park, just outside Belden in Mississippi, and sped down there, stopping only at a very scary gas station full of rednecks, hunters and (I am sure) murderers. The gangster rap blaring out as the guys inside played pool and drank bottles of Bud was kinda worrying but I made it to the campground in one piece and settled in for a nice quiet evening.

[AZBuck]

It is amazing how travel opens your eyes to how other people live in their moment of space and time, and any strife that goes with it. And the odd associations that get made. Great report on experiencing a different culture and managing in the face of one's expectations.

Well, having never been in Belfast in the 1970s, I now have a fair idea what it was like.

See, this is what I mean, I WAS in Belfast in the early 70's. January of '72, I think. I got to be a "guest" of the King's Own Scots Borders under the Special Powers Act, got roughed up by some local thugs, was taken blindfolded to an IRA safe house, and ended up hitchhiking across the border into the Republic with a smuggler. All-in-all one of the most memorable trips I've ever taken. Thanks for triggering the memory.

AZBuck

[Mark Sedenquist]

All-in-all one of the most memorable trips I've ever taken. Thanks for triggering the memory.

Well, that is a fascinating anecdote from your background -- I, too have been in some delicate places and in some interesting situations in my travels -- haven't been blindfolded yet though...

Mark