Chasing Cars: Portland and Sonoma (and the North West)

[UKCraig]

Thanks, Mark. I appreciate that the coast is different but I read that in places it's as good as, or maybe better, than Big Sur. I guess it's all about taking the right side turns off CA-1? I think perhaps I need a guide book to the coastline.

And, yes, I've read that report before and most definately intend to cruise through. The mention of those burgers made my mouth water :)

[Carol White]

Head south along the coast road, camping overnight in Cannon Beach, towards Portland visiting Multnomah Falls en route.

Sound like maybe you've abandoned the idea of Northern Oregon/Washington for your trip, but, just in case....

You won't find Multnomah Falls "en route" from Cannon Beach to Portland - it is east of Portland about 30 minutes...

I'm also going to post 2 articles that I wrote a few months ago about a "long weekend trip" for both Oregon and California. It may give you some ideas.

Carol White

Oregon – is it Hip, or just Cool?

Oregon is where, generations ago, a Governor coined a saying about “Come visit, but don’t stay” that is still quoted by tourists. Oregon, the place that is best known for its Silicon Forest, its environmentalism and smart urban planning, and yes, being totally laid back in the rain, is really a very cool place.

So how do you get a flavor for the state in a three night, four-day tour? You try to see a little of everything – the mountains, the desert, and the ocean; the sleek urban and the small towns, the trendy and the Wild West. Perhaps you’d call it an Oregon Sampler.

DAY ONE

Wake-up in one of Portland’s downtown boutique hotels; get up early and throw on some sweats and head out to the nearest coffee shop – sure to be not more than a block away. Head towards the Willamette River and walk, jog or bike along the waterfront – maybe even get a peak at the Dragon boats preparing for competition or a tugboat preparing for the day’s work. Maybe even amble along the Eastbank Esplanade for a stunning view of the city.

Enjoy breakfast at the Bijou, Cadillac Café or Milo’s. It’s mid-morning as you leave Portland behind and turn your thoughts towards the outdoors. You’re heading up Interstate 84 to the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area. Stop to see the newly renovated Vista House with spectacular views of the Gorge, take a short hike at Multnomah Falls, and continue to Hood River, the self-proclaimed wind surfing capital of the world.

Proceed to Highway 35 with Timberline Lodge as your lunch destination. High on the flank of Mt. Hood, this WPA-era lodge provides vistas of an array of snow-capped mountains to the south and provides year-round skiing to both locals and Olympic ski teams.

After lunch, make a beeline for Bend, your first night’s destination. As you travel along, you’ll pass through Oregon’s high desert region and the Warm Springs Indian Reservation, where the tribe still follows ancient customs in the midst of a modern world.

Enjoy the downtown area or the newly redeveloped Old Mill District, constructed on the site of an old lumber mill. A visit to Mirror Pond and the Pine Tavern Inn will give a flavor of fast-growing Bend’s historic roots. This town is now one of the fastest growing cities in the nation and becoming another sought-after Oregon destination with sunny weather much of the year.

DAY TWO

Next, you are headed for one of Oregon’s crown jewels, Crater Lake National Park. A two-hour drive will take you through a panorama of ancient volcanic high-mountain peaks. Cruise Rim Drive around the lake to enjoy the this volcano that collapsed to create this infinitely clear, deep lake and plan on having lunch at the delicious, recently restored Crater Lake Lodge dining room.

Head down Highway 138 through one of the most awe-inspiring forested drives you’ll ever encounter with the Umpqua River tumbling madly along the road nearly the entire way to Roseburg, one of Oregon’s oldest lumber towns and still very much a small Oregon town. Try the Holiday Inn Express with its views of the river for relaxing accommodations and McMenamin’s Pub, a truly funky Oregon, home-grown business with locations throughout the state in historic venues.

DAY THREE

Today is a real treat, the Oregon Coast. The Pacific Coast Scenic Byway is so spectacular that the entire length of US 101 in Oregon is designated a scenic drive by AAA. The small towns dotting the drive range from fishing towns, to lumber towns to tourist towns of every ilk. Stop at Reedsport, known for its ocean-going fleet of salmon fishing boats at nearby Winchester Bay.

Reedsport is also located in the middle of the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area that boasts some of the largest natural sand dunes in the world. Jessie M. Honeyman State Park is one of the best places to see the dunes up close. If you are adventuresome, take a dune buggy ride. There are a variety of outfitters from Reedsport to Florence, but remember, it’s all about choices: time here is less time later!

From Florence to Lincoln City, the world is your oyster. There are more parks and beaches to visit than you’ll possibly have the time or energy for. Some highlights are the Heceta Lighthouse and Beach (Florence), Sea Lion Caves (Florence), the waterfront areas in Newport and Depoe Bay, Devil’s Punchbowl State Park(North of Newport), and The Oregon Coast Aquarium (Newport).

Sample some of the local food scene also. Moe’s Clam Chowder is known up and down the coast. Dungeness crab is a local delicacy as well as local Chinook salmon. An opportunity to try any of these seasonal treasures should not be missed. But Oregon Blackberry Cobbler in late summer is the best!

You’ll arrive in Lincoln City invigorated by the fresh ocean breezes, but with sand in your shoes and ready to put your feet up. Treat yourself tonight to one of the Oregon Coast’s finest lodgings, Salishan Lodge. Check out the Side Door Café this evening – frequent entertainment makes it a fun place to hang out.

DAY FOUR

The last leg of your “Oregon Sampler;” but take time to fly a kite, walk on the beach or shop in some of the many locally-owned stores throughout the area.

As you head up Highway 18, lunch and wine tasting are in Dundee, the heart of Oregon’s Pinot Noir wine country. Armed with your map, you can spend the rest of the day wine tasting and deciding which wines you just must take home.

Back in Portland your world is calling you home with a promise to return to explore the other two-thirds of the state. You now know why I say “Oregon is the only place where you can snow ski in the morning, water ski in the afternoon and watch the sun set over the ocean – all in one day – year round.” The diversity of this state is incredible. It’s up to you to decide whether it is truly hip, or just cool. So come visit – and maybe you’ll also decide to stay.

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I Left My Heart – where?

Northern California may not be as glamorous as its Southern California cousin, but there is so much to see that a three-night, four-day get-away is not nearly enough. The first decision that one must make is: do I go north or south – of San Francisco? You really can’t do both, so we’re headed south for the sheer variety of activities.

DAY 1

Start your first morning in downtown San Francisco. A run along the Embarcadero is an exhilarating way to start the day. Don’t choose a boring chain hotel/motel. San Francisco has one of the richest palettes of small local choices throughout the city. You must, of course, ride the cable cars for a total SF experience, as well as visit Fisherman’s Wharf and Golden Gate Park. You could spend a whole week just in SF, but there is so much to see on your long weekend, that you’ll agonize over your choices. Consider the Cliff House for breakfast or lunch for one of the best ocean views around – as long as the fog has lifted.

Leave the city via US1 through Pacifica, Half Moon Bay and on to Santa Cruz. The road is slow, but well worth the drive. Each small town along the way gives a different picture of small town California with historic roots in each. Our destination tonight is Monterey – home of the world famous aquarium and John Steinbeck fame. We have enjoyed the Hotel Pacific, but the choices are many. For a total splurge, continue on down the coast a short distance and stay at the Lodge at Pebble Beach or the Inn at Spanish Bay. Both are “wow” experiences, especially if you are a golf fan. But don’t miss sightseeing in Cannery Row and downtown Monterey if you decide to head to the Carmel area for the night.

DAY 2

Either wake in the heart of one of the world’s Golf Mecca’s, or head there for breakfast – maybe at Katy’s Place. Carmel-by-the-Sea is one of the quaintest towns you’ll ever find and dotted with small Inns and wonderful small restaurants. Their restrictions on everything have kept it much the way it was in the 1960s. It is still known as an artists retreat and evidence of that is shown throughout the many galleries sprinkling the courtyards of the town. A great way to see the town is via a self-guided walking tour.

As you say good-bye to Carmel, continue down highway 1 through the most spectacular scenery on the west coast – Big Sur. Rugged, isolated, wondrous, and rural don’t begin to describe the scenery of this area. Small restaurants dot the northern portion of the highway, but a treat would be lunching at either Ventana or the Post Ranch Inn. Be prepared to stop frequently and take in the scenery and allow extra time on this narrow, twisting scenic highway arriving at San Simeon and the Hearst Castle. Be sure to make reservations ahead for this popular destination and allow plenty of time for one or more of the magnificent tours.

After walking and exploring all day, take just a short drive on into Pismo Beach for the flavor of a true California beach town. There are several reasonably priced ocean-front hotels with good local dining close by. Enjoy the sunset and a great seafood meal before turning in.

DAY 3

No visit to California would be complete without a visit to at least one of the remaining 21 California Missions. These were originally stopovers for travelers and community centers for the area, as well as religious institutions. We’ll stop and tour the San Luis Obispo mission built in 1772 in downtown San Luis Obispo – a delightful destination even without the mission. It is the fifth oldest mission and is still an active church.

California is legendary for their wine growing regions and the Paso Robles area is gaining recognition for their wines. This wine growing area was made famous by the 2004 movie, “Sideways.” Explore several wineries then pick up a picnic lunch and enjoy it on the winery grounds with a good bottle of local wine overlooking the actual vineyard.

After lunch, we have a two and half hour drive through both wine country and California’s famous agriculture areas following Highway 41 to Fresno, then North to Merced on Highway 99. Stop along the way at one of the many fruit and vegetable stands and enjoy the local flavor of your choice. Merced is a farming community first and foremost and a working class town in the middle of the San Joaquin Valley. A good night’s sleep is in order before our assault on Yosemite National Park.

Note: An alternate would be to continue on into Yosemite Park tonight and stay at one of the four National Park Lodges or other accommodations if you can get reservations. It is about an additional two hours from Merced on Highway 140.

DAY 4

California has more national parks than any other state, so a visit to this great state just has to include a visit to at least one of them – and Yosemite is arguably the most famous.

If you managed the extra driving yesterday, you are waking up in this glorious park, or you are rising early to arrive in the park by mid-morning. A half-day is not nearly enough time to explore, but it is enough time to take in the valley floor, gaze at El Capitan (look for the rock climbers hanging on the side where they sleep!), view Yosemite Falls, maybe drive out to Glacier Point for a picnic lunch (just don’t let the chipmunks get it – they are fast!) and a view of Half Dome.

It is a four hour drive out of Yosemite back to San Francisco, so you’ll arrive late and tired, but full of the memories of your quick tour of just a small slice of Northern California. So, where did you leave your heart?

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Carol White is the co-author of the award-winning book, “Live Your Road Trip Dream” – the ultimate road trip planning guide for extended road trips.

[UKCraig]

Thanks, Carol, interesting read.

I think I've got a reasonble idea of the route that I want to take now although I a very much open to suggestions - especally of those who have been to or otherwise know the area though which I'll be travelling. Particularly interested in tips for the final leg down the coast. I have read that the 'Lost Coast Scenic Byway' from Ferndale down to the 'Avenue Of The Giants' is a great drive -- any other tips for scenic routes or side trips off CA-1 would be very welcome. Any worthwhile hikes? Any tips where I could stop and see the San Andreas Fault; if in fact there is anything to see?

I have realised that I've done it again. My last trip fell on the Labor Day weekend, my next over Thanksgiving and this trip covers July 4th. Will that impact on my plans in any way? Will shops, gas stations, state parks, etc. remain open, close entirely or offer a reduced service?

[lhuff]

My trip last year started on the 4th of July. A lot of regular stores were shut, but none of the attractions were. It posed no problems for me. But - try to find a local fireworks show where ever you stop. Most towns put on a big show for the 4th.

Laura

[Mark Sedenquist]

I have realised that I've done it again. My last trip fell on the Labor Day weekend, my next over Thanksgiving and this trip covers July 4th.

Us USA locals avoid traveling on those holiday weekends -- and you end up traveling on them and they aren't even holidays for you? That is pretty funny!

Mark

[UKCraig]

Well, Thanksgiving was kinda fun, so I'm quite looking forward to 4th July :)

Just read this rather interesting article linked from the RTA homepage and it's got me in the mood for looking at this next trip again in ernest now. I may look to shave some time off as I have plans for Feburary now which I really need some holiday days for, but... looking forward to this one :)

[UKCraig]

Has anyone here visited the USS Hornet? I did a search on the forum and it came up with no results at all! Can't believe no one has been at all...

[W. Larrison]

No, but I've been on the USS Midway, which is the carrier/ naval musuem in San Diego.

If you haven't been on one.. they are impressive ships to tour.

[UKCraig]

I like the sound of that - thanks for the confirmation that's worth finding time to stop and visit. I will do my best as it sounds pretty cool!

[UKCraig]

Hi there - only me!

Events have overtaken this trip and it has now found itself part of a far larger trip. This has given me two further weeks to explore the area so I can now do all of the destinations that I wanted to do originally. As I'll not be flying into the US - this trip will start several weeks earlier in Canada - I have rejigged the order so that I am now starting in the Bellingham/Seattle area.

I would welcome any suggestions for how best to start this leg of trip - ie how to join it on to the previous leg which will end in Vancouver. Should I cross the border on foot, by ferry, train or another route. I will be looking for a car rental company in Bellingham ideally as that is where I will be catching the ferry to start the next leg.

Here's the itinerary:

9th June Cross US border, pick up rental car and head towards Olympic NP (100 miles)
10th June Olympic NP (101 miles)
11th June Drive to Mount St Helens NVM (258 miles)
12th June Visit Multnomah Falls and Portland (107 miles)
13th June Drive to Crater Lake NP (248 miles)
14th June Crater Lake NP
15th June Drive to Redwood NP (263 miles)
16th June Redwood NP
17th June Drive to Redding to and visit McArthur-Burney Falls SP (212 miles)
18th June Drive to Lassen Volcanic NP (200 miles)
19th June Drive to San Francisco (100 miles)
20th June Oakland - USS Hornet & baseball ground (25 miles)
21st June San Francisco
22nd June Race: Nascar - Infineon Raceway (100 miles)
23rd June US-50 to Great Basin NP (280 miles)
24th June US-50 to Great Basin NP (280 miles)
25th June Great Basin NP then drive to Bonneville Salt Flats SP (180 miles)
26th June Drive to Craters of the Moon NM (282 miles)
27th June Drive to Grand Teton NP (206 miles)
28th June Grand Teton NP
29th June Drive to Yellowstone NP (90 miles)
30th June Yellowstone NP
1st July Start driving to Glacier NP (300 miles)
2nd July Complete drive to Glacier NP (176 miles)
3rd July Glacier NP
4th July Coeur d' Alene for fireworks at dusk (249 miles)
5th July Coeur d' Alene
6th July Drive to Mt Rainier NP (335 miles)
7th July Mt Rainier NP
8th July Drive to Seattle (107 miles)
9th July Seattle
10th July Boeing Tour then Drive to North Cascades NP (130 miles)
11th July North Cascades NP
12th July North Cascades NP
13th July
14th July
15th July Drop rental car and take ferry at 6pm

I have two and a half days spare at the end of the loop before I take the ferry to Alaska. Any ideas?

I have listed rough mileage to be driven each day based on estimates from Streets & Trips. I am restricted a little in the first half of the trip in that I have tickets for the race on the 22nd and I'm meeting some people at Grand Teton NP and Yellowstone NP a week later. Everything else has to be squeezed up a little to fit in with that. I think it's worked out pretty well though I am, as ever, keen for the opinions of you guys!

I was tempted to add another day at Yellowstone after my friends had departed but I was keen to see Glacier NP and then make Coeur d' Alene for the 4th July celebrations. It's the same reason that I haven't added a trip into the Canadian section of the Glacier-Waterton International Peace Park - you can't be in the middle of a trip through the USA and then pop over to Canada for the evening of the 4th July! What is the deal there anyway? I presume there remains some form of border crossing? Also, is there any campgrounds in the park? I've looked on the NPS website and can't really find anything pertaining to camping?