USA 2007 trip report

[UK]

Day 5. Up early because we had a full day ahead. Over to Page to
visit a supermarket for provisions (more about that later) and to
fill up with petrol (gas to some of you). RVs gobble petrol, when I
have the time, I'll work out how many m.p.g. we got. This was the
second time on this trip we had filled up and I remember this
occasion the cost was $116.

From Page we set off for the north rim of the Grand Canyon. We
stopped along the way for the female section of our party to be
fleeced (an old yorkshire term for being relieved of your money) by
some Navajo jewellery traders at the side of the road. They had
picked a special spot for their roadside market with a jawdropping
view down towards the Navajo Bridge over the upper reaches of the
Grand Canyon.

We duly crossed the Navajo Bridge which is a special experience.
NPS Info about the history
[Editor's Note: Some RTA memories of this view...]

As we headed onwards, my mind drifted back to approx 1994 which was
the last time we had driven this road (in the opposite direction). I
vaguely remembered seeing some wierd boulders at the side of the road
and looked out for them. Sure enough just a mile or two up the road
we came across them and I pulled in to take a look. Not the most
fascinating place I've ever been, but worth a quick look around.

We pressed on and stopped for a quick lunch at Jacob Lake before
heading down to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon where we had out
campsite reserved for the night. We went to the Lodge and viewing
area before going to the campsite and had a walk to look around.

The Lodge is one of the wonderful old log structures that you often
see in the western parks and it is surrounded by small log cabins you
can stay in. The area is much less busy and has a less commercial
feel to it than the South Rim does. However, despite what I have
repeatedly read, in my opinion the views of the Grand Canyon are
nowhere near as impressive as those from the South Rim. The main
North Rim area is slightly up Bright Angel Canyon and as such the
sheer massive grandeur of the Grand Canyon is not so obvious and
striking as the view from the South Rim. If you have more time (which
we did not have) I understand the view from Cape Royal is much better.

We then went to the camp site and set up the RVs. The capmp site had
no hook ups for water, electricty or sewer and so we were independant
for the evening. We prepared for a BBQ at the side of the grand
canyon (remember the provisions I mentioned earlier). We soon had a
good hot charcoal fire going and had a wonderfull evening eating,
drinking, laughing, singing.

Once the food was done we burnt wood we had purchased at the camp
store and had a real campfire and roasted marshmallows. A very
special evening indeed, no electricity, no TV, no computer games, no
pre-prepared food and the kids all enjoyed it !

[PNW Judy]

Yummmm...a camping trip isn't really a camping trip until you've burned a few. Did you make Somemores?

[UK]

Day 6 A long day ahead hauling ourselves back close to Las Vegas. The
drive was largely uneventful, the most noteworthy incident being
while we were parked just off the Interstate having lunch we
overloaded the RV generator by running the aircon, the microwave and
the toaster simultaneously. I could not work out how to re-set the
generator and so lunch was hurried as it was getting hot.

As we approached Las Vegas on the I15 I made another routing mistake
and we headed off the interstate on the 169 heading for the
167 "scenic lakeshore drive" around Lake Mead. This was a mistake
because our speed had to drop considerably due to narrow winding
roads and poor road surface and we did not get the expected scenic
views of the Lake because the road is set so far back from the Lake
you cannot see it. This had the net result of making a long journey
take even longer without the benefit of a scenic drive. Now I may be
doing the scenic nature of the 167 a dis-service as my recollection
is tinted by my being dreadfully tired and just wanting the journey
to end.

We finally arrived at our destination, an RV park on the edge of Lake
Mead close to Boulder. The setting was terrific and made all the more
pleasant by a couple of cold beers sitting looking over the Lake in
the shade of the RV as the sun began to set.

That night we drove to a casino on boulder highway and had an
excellent all you can eat buffet meal for about $7 a head.

UK

[UK]

Day 7 We left our final campground and drove a mile or two up the lake
shore to Lake Mead Marina. We had lunch there and we had a great deal
of fun feeding the fish. See the photograph at the foot of this page
When you throw bread into the water the fish are so plentiful and so
competitive for food that they literally push each other up out of the
water. An incredible sight.

From there we drove to drop off the RVs from where we had picked them
up and caught taxis into Las Vegas to the Flamingo where we were to
stay for the next 4 days. Arriving an hour before the official earliest
check in time we found the hotle was vitually full already and the four
rooms we were allocated were quite widely separated. We were able to
change one of the rooms the following morning to get us closer
together.

Late in the afternoon went down to the pool area which is very good for
kids at the Flamingo having a number of pools connected by waterslides.
To everybodies dissappointment the pool closed for a private party
after only 30 mins or so. We wrongly assumed it was for one night only
but in fact it happened every night we were there although we were
there earlier on the other afternoons and so it was less disruptive.
After eating in the Flamingo we walked over to Ceasars Palace to see
the Forum shops.

Day 8 Off to Circus Circus for the kids to play around the big top area
and go on the rides in the pleasure dome out back. Only in Las Vegas do
you find a theme park inside an airconditioned dome ! In the evening we
had an excellent meal at the Outback Steak House. Had a walk around the
Grand Canal reproduction in the Venice.

Day 9 Caught the monorail up to the Las Vegas Hilton to visit the Star
Trek experience. The Borg ride was new since we were last there and it
was very good. Also great fun was the fact that a Star Trek Convention
was taking place and the area was full of 'Trekkies' all dressed up. We
had a very dissappointing meal in Quarks bar and after vigorous
complaining got around $30 knocked off the bill. In the evening we went
to see the show Stomp. Absolutely brilliant. I would heartily recommend
it to anybody going to Vegas.

Day 10 monorail down to the MGM and then walked over and caught the
train from Excalibur to the Luxor. I never get used to simply standing
inside the Luxor and marvelling about how on earth it was built. It is
simply stunning. From the Luxor we walked through Excalibur to New York
New York where we went on the dramatic roller coaster that goes around
the outside of the casino

From there it was back to pool for the kids. In the evening we ate in
the Flamingo buffet which was a very dissappointing meal.

[Mark Sedenquist]

There are so many incredible places to eat in Las Vegas. Since this our home town, next time you might wish to ask us about culinary delights and scenic drives in the area.

But, as always I enjoy reading your take on your USA travels.

Mark

[lhuff]

Casino Food - it's kind of a hit and miss type of thing. I haven't been all that impressed with the casino food I've eaten in Vegas or Shreveport, except for Harrahs in Shreveport/Bossier. Now I've heard from quite a few people that Harrah's Louisiana Downs has some of the finest food to offer around here and for a reasonable price. But I can't personally vouch for it.

I spent a lot of time in Vegas just being overwhelmed. It's a very cool town.

I can't wait to see how this venture continues and ultimately ends.

Laura

[UK]

Day 11 Up bright and early and the dirty dozen (we were a party of 12) split up, with my sister and her family flying out to San Francisco leaving 7 of us to carry on by road.

I caught a cab to Dollar to pick up our pre-paid for 8 seater minivan. The cab driver took me to the wrong Dollar location first and we eventually ended up at a new facility for all of the car hire companies way south on Las Vegas Boulevard (the strip) beyond the airport.

I nervously waited for the minivan because we were deeply concerned about getting one big enough for the 7 of us and over 3 weeks worth of luggage. Fortunately it was OK and there was ample space for our ample luggage. I set off back to the Flamingo, picked up everybody and we set off for the second part of our road journey.

We headed north west on the 95 stopping at a supermarket to buy a polystyrene (styrofoam to US readers) ice chest and cold drinks to keep in the van. At Armagosa Valley we took the 373 and headed towards Death Valley. In the van we discussed the name Armagosa which is used in Star Trek and almost immediately saw a McCoy street and McCoy road - is there a connection ?

Driving into Death Valley there a regular signs along the road informing you about your altitude and it was quite a weird thought as we headed downhill and passed the sea level marker. Apparently the lowest altitude in Death Valley is 282 feet below sea level. The lowest sign we saw was for 190 feet below at Furnace Creek.

Furnace Creek is an apt name. Stepping out of the van at 2 in the afternoon was like stepping into a furnace, you could feel your eyes drying out ! I have some video of some crows sitting in the shade panting with their beaks wide open. I have never seen a bird pant before.

We had a good meal in the air conditioned oasis of the Furnace Creek restaurant and then pressed on. We stopped to view the sand dunes just before reaching Stovepipe Wells. I had read and been told before we travelled that you had to turn your air conditioning off when in Death Valley and all the journey up to this point I had nervously watched the engine temperature dial (with the air conditioning full on) and it never budged. As we climbed up after Stovepipe Wells signs appeared at the side of the road advising turning air conditioning off. As the engine indicators all remained fine I ignored them and nothing went wrong. I wonder why they post this advice ?.

We stopped again inside the park where the road crossed a dried up lake bed before climbing out of the park past Panamint Springs. I had always wanted to walk on a dry lake bed with the vast flat vista and the cracked earth. The section of road down from Towne Pass across the dried up lake and out is remarkable when you stop to view it from one of the many pull outs as you climb out of the park. How on earth did they build it in this inhospitable heat ?

Driving out past Owens Lake (dry) there was sand blowing in streams across the road, very atmospheric and how I wish in retrospect I had videoed it. Finally we arrived at Lone Pine our destination for the night and checked in at the motel. With the eastern flank of the Sierra Nevadas as a backdrop, Lone Pine is a pleasant small town with a pretty good selection of restaurants. We had a fine meal and retired for the evening.

[UK]

Its been a while since I had time to carry on with this, here goes again.

Day 12 Breakfast at the motel was a bit of a bun fight with far too many people trying to get into the tiny breakfast room for the free continental breakfast. I picked a few things up and we ate in our room. We loaded up the van and set off in no particular hurry because we did not have a long drive north up the eastern flank of the Sierra Nevadas.

By lunchtime we had reached our destination of Mammoth Lakes and we had lunch in the town. We then set off to find where we were staying which was called The Village at Mammoth. This was a development higher up above the main town to the west complete with shops restaurants and accommodation really intended for the winter season but nevertheless very pleasant in the summer. We had a huge well equipped ‘Condo’ with the washing machine and tumble drier immediately put to use. After watching the free outdoor music show in the village square we had a meal in one of the local restaurants.

Day 13 The following morning the four of us who were interested set off up the mountain to see the Devils Postpile National Monument. To reach this place you have to park your vehicle at the Mammoth mountain resort and catch a shuttle bus to it. It is a spectacular drive into a delightful hidden valley where we got off at the Ranger station and walked to see the rock formation.

That afternoon the whole party went up to Mammoth Mountain and we caught the cable car up to the top – absolutely wonderful and quite breathtaking literally at just over 11,000 feet high. We talked about being below sea level just two days before, what a country of contrasts this is.

Day 14 Up and away fairly early we set off for Yosemite. We paused at Lee Vining to buy a picnic lunch and then set of up the Tioga Pass for Yosemite. This is a wonderful drive and the Tioga Pass road reminded me of segments of the Going to the Sun road in Glacier National Park.

We ate our lunch by the side of Tenaya Lake high in the Sierras. An exhilarating place that tingles the senses with the views the crisp clean air and the crystal clear water. High up above on the huge rocks we watched climbers visible as tiny specs looking like ants on a beach ball.

Down the western slopes of the Sierras we wound or way to the entrance to Yosemite Valley its self and then headed out of the El Portal entrance to our hotel for the next two nights just outside the park at the side of the Merced River.

That evening my sister and her family arrived from San Francisco and the Dirty Dozen were re-united.

[UK]

Day 15 A relaxed day exploring Yosemite Valley. This holiday was the second time I had visited Yosemite, the first was very much a rush driving down from Lake Tahoe, over the Tioga Pass into Yosemite Valley and back out all in one day. I had always promised myself I would come back with more time to spend and this was it !

We stopped off at Bridal Veil Falls and had a walk along the trail to see them. The walk was pleasant but the falls were almost none existent in the middle of August. I expect they are much more spectacular in the spring.

At the main visitor centre the exhibit about the Miwok Indians who originally populated the valley (Yosemite is the Miwok word for Grizzly Bear) was once again for me very thought provoking as you read about how the encroachment of White people destroyed their way of life. What a lot of terrible things were done in the past in the name of exploration and settlement.

Back to the hotel in the early afternoon for the kids to have a swim and then we all had an evening meal in the restaurant. That evening we sat out late into the night discussing the relative merits of the various local bottled beers we had purchased.

Day 16 Into the park again so that we could leave via the South Entrance. My guide book advised stopping at the Tunnel View viewpoint which we duly did. Wow ! I had not imagined that such a view existed of the Yosemite Valley from high up without hiking to it.

After seeing the view, we set off for the south entrance with the intention of seeing the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoia redwoods. Inadequate planning caused a problem and it took much longer than I had allowed to get to the grove because the roads were so convoluted and hence slow. It was lunchtime already by the time we got there and we still had a long way to go to get to the coast by the evening. Therefore we settled for seeing the smaller but nevertheless still impressive Sequioas in the parking lot before heading off to Oakhurst for lunch.

There then followed a long and uninspiring drive to Watsonville our overnight stop on the coast. We had a fine evening meal in a local diner where they moved the tables around to get us all around one long table. Quite a feat for a party of 12 !

[UK]

Day 17 up and away for the brief drive down the coast to Monterey. We stopped next to the state beach and walked along the Pier watching the sea lions in the harbour and the summer camp kids playing team games on the beach. We then drove along a gorgeous stretch of coastal road around the north of the peninsula looking for somewhere to have lunch and eventually stopped at a shopping mall where there was a choice.

Heading down the coast we skipped the 17 mile drive as we had a long way to go but did take the time to divert through Carmel. The short drive down the hill and back out was a trip into the world of the super rich. I think we saw every type of expensive luxury car you could see parked at the side of the road for all to see.

Further south from Carmel we followed route 1 and headed to the Big Sur coastline. This was a drive I had long wanted to make but for various reasons it had not been possible on previous trips. The journey did not disappoint, the views are spectacular and the road is a treat to drive as it hugs the rugged coastline rising and falling, twisting and turning, offering spectacular view after spectacular view. It did cross my mind that I was glad we were no longer in the RV. I think that would not have been such a good driving experience.

As the coastline flattened out we paused to see the Elephant Seals on the beach at the side of the road and then stopped for a longer break at the William R Hearst Memorial State Beach where the kids had a paddle in the sea (ice cold apparently).

We stopped for the night in San Luis Obispo and finished off the evening with a meal in a local diner that had gargantuan portions that nobody could finish. The size of the onion rings had to be seen to be believed !