2013 Lap around the USA

[john.waters]

Day 44– Saturday 22nd June 2013 – Fort Macleod, Canada- Spokane – Seattle, Washington - 642 Miles

It was 9.30 am before we hit the road. As usual we find it hard to leave early from a motel. After watching the weather on the news we decided to continue along the border to avoid the flooded areas.

We drove some stunning and beautiful country. It’s a shame we didn’t get to see more. But it only increased our desire to come back again and explore it properly.





We found the price of fuel rose dramatically in Canada and very close to the prices we pay in Australia. Going from about $50 US to $75 Canadian to fill up the van.

We enjoyed stopping off and taking photos wherever we could and managed to get a few photos of a giant Dump truck at Sparwood BC. It once held the title of the worlds biggest Dump Truck before retiring in 1990.
It weighs 260 tonne and able to carry 70,000 lbs of ore. IT certainly made me look small as I stood beside it.



Continuing on the more we drove the more I noticed the river levels rising and more and more debris in the river from the flooded areas.



We pulled into a small shop for lunch and after speaking to the owners we decided it would be better to get out of Canada and back into the USA. The shop owner waited until we fuelled up before telling us the border crossing was only about 20 miles away.

We crossed back into the USA at Westgate, Washington. A very quick and pleasant crossing and a friendly Customs lady.

The scenery again was beautiful and a few old barns caught my attention so I had to stop for a photo.



Our little van was pretty dirty by now and in need of a wash. As we entered Newport a group of people were waving signs,”free carwash”. So we done a U turn and headed back.
They were from Christian Centre and working for donations. We had afternoon tea while the van was washed before giving them some money and leaving in our clean van.

We passed through Spokane in the afternoon and continued on our way in the direction of Seattle. It was a beautiful afternoon and a great day for driving and the scenery was forever changing.

With still plenty of daylight left I set a plan to find a rest area or truck stop before going over the pass into Seattle.

It was about 9pm and the sun was setting and the sky lit up with beautiful colors. I couldn’t even stop in the traffic for a photo. We had put a truck stop in the GPS and I was watching the signs for the turn off.

It wasn’t long before road works commenced and our truck stop was closed off. I kept driving but soon found us going into the pass and nowhere to stop.
Our only option was to continue on to Seattle.

It had been a long day and something I wasn’t too keen on. One of my driving rules is to stop before dark but on this occasion I had no other choice.

We set a Flying J travel centre in the GPS and continued on. It was about 11.00 pm by the time we pulled up after a long tiring day on the road. We had a quick bit to eat and into bed.

[john.waters]

Day 45– Sunday 23rd June 2013 - Seattle, Washington – Port Angeles - Ho Rain Forest – Olympic National Park Washington. – 271 Miles

Up at 7am to drizzly rain. We got some fuel and a subway each for breakfast before heading off to find a Quicklube as our van was due for a service. We found one a few minutes away and waited for it to open at 8am. It wasn’t long and we were back on the road.
I wish it was this easy to get something done in Australia, let alone on a Sunday morning. We had the job done and cost about $60.00.We couldn’t buy the oil and filters in Australia for that amount.

Again I failed with my map reading judgement. I looked at the map and thought the drive around the peninsula would take only an hour or two. It doesn’t look far on the map but a lot slower getting there.

Next stop was Olympic National Park Visitors centre. We got a few maps and directions before heading off. Someone said its always raining in Washington State. It was confirmed when I saw a vinyl roof Suzuki 4wd with moss growing on the roof. Proof enough for me.



The drizzly rain continued as we drove towards Ho Rain Forest. With the roads winding and wet roads we took it easy but I cant say that for other road users.

As we were driving through the bends a sports car racing through the curves lost control while coming in our direction. I didn’t have enough time to brake as he was heading towards us, sideways and out of control.
I certainly though we were about to get wiped out and have no idea how he missed us, and the traffic behind us.

He didn’t take to long to get going after he had control of the car back. It shook us up pretty well and was a while before how close we came to having a major accident. I just hope he learnt from his stupidity.

We finally found our way to Ho Rain Forest and a great camp spot right beside the river. Such a beautiful place with waterfalls and forest walks. We had plenty of time to set up our camp and get out and take a few more photos.





We missed Olympic NP last trip and made it a priority to visit this trip. It was a very good decision. I could quite easily spend a lot more time in the area.

[john.waters]

Day 46 – Monday 24th June 2013 - Ho Rain Forest – Olympic National Park Washington. – Portland Oregon- 277 Miles

Up at 7am and cooked breakfast before taking a fantastic 2 hour stroll along the trails in Ho Rain Forest with its breathtaking scenery, and lots of moss etc hanging from the trees. There was misty rain and the sunlight filtering through the canopy above us, and no else around us.
So peaceful and quiet, an amazing and wonderful experience while standing amongst the huge old growth tree, and the crystal clear streams. Im sure we must have been dreaming.









We finally managed to drag ourselves away from here and headed off in the direction of Portland, Oregon. We took our time and drove through a lot of small towns before picking up a main highway and joining the real world again and the continuous stream of cars and trucks.

We arrived at Portland and decided we deserved a motel; for the night. I think the many nights in the van were starting to take toll on our bodies. (not complaining though).
We ordered Pizza for dinner and settled down to catching up with family and friends on the internet before planning the next stage of our adventure.

Oregon has always been my favourite state and couldn’t wait to visit some new and old places we visited two years ago. Just something about Oregon that seems to warm my soul.

[john.waters]

Day 47 – Tuesday 25th June 2013, Washington. – Portland Oregon- Columbia River Gorge – The Dalles – Bend – Crater Lake National Park, Oregon – 324 Miles


Up at 8am and off to breakfast at the motel.(coffee and waffles) before hitting the road. The lady at reception drew a mud map for us with a short cut to the Columbia River Gorge area.
The rain was still with us but very light and misty. Not a good day for tourists but great for waterfall photography. I seemed to have most places to myself.










I wondered off to photograph the falls while my wife stayed close to the van and out of the rain. Armed with my camera bag and tripod and my blue poncho from Niagara Falls I spent an hour or two in my element and the rain just taking photos.

I thought all m dreams had come true when I first saw Multnomah Falls. Im sure I wasn’t alone with that feeling as there were a lot of people doing the same thing.

Once the rain got heavier the people moved on and I managed to get the photographs, and panoramic shots I wanted. Again moving and leaving these falls was hard but I was still looking forward to seeing more of Oregon.

We followed the highway and eventually crossed back over into Washington at Cascade locks and back into Oregon at The Dalles. I couldn’t resist a few panoramic shots of the bride as well.



The rain had cleared by now and we continued the journey to Bend before making out way to Chelmut and onto Crater Lake National Park.
Last time we were in Chelmut in 2011 our little van broke down. We called into the garage to see the mechanic and say hi, but he had just closed for the day.

Also in 2011 most of the roads around Crater Lake were close and access was only available through Annie Springs. This time being late June we entered through the North Entrance.
It was late in the afternoon as we entered the Park and it had started raining again. The closer we got to the lake the heavier the fog got and visibility was very bad.

We made our way to the campground and found ourselves a spot before going back tot the village to catch up on some washing. We decided not to go driving around the park and headed back to our camp for the night.

[john.waters]

Im still here and committed to finishing this Field Trip Report. Had another set back with my computer crashing amd spending a few days in the shop.
I just seem to get distracted easily and get side tracked. I just need to upload a few more photos and start typing again.

John

[john.waters]

Day 48 – Wednesday26th June 2013, - Crater Lake National Park, Oregon – Union Creek – Prospect - Crescent City, California - 222 Miles

Up at 8am to rain and foggy weather and visibility of Crater Lake was non existent. With plenty of snow on the ground it was still a very pretty sight. We drove to a few of the lookouts but it was still fogged in.





We decided to take a drive around the rim to the eastern side and rewarded with clear sky and magnificent views of the lake. It was certainly worth the drive around.









Returning to the visitors centre it was still bleak and raining and no different from when we left.
On our earlier visit in May 2011 the whole area was covered with fresh snow and looked like something off a Christmas card. I’m sure we were spoilt then as it didn’t seem the same without all the snow.

We had an early lunch before departing Crater Lake National Park and stopping off at Union Creek for pie and coffee at Becky’s Café. We stayed at Union Creek two years earlier and couldn’t leave Oregon without trying another of Becky’s deserts.

Next stop was Prospect, only a short drive from Union Creek and to some waterfalls that we found last trip. We spent half an hour or so with the place to ourselves before heading off on the walk back up to the van.
Just as we got back to the car park we were greeted by a bus load of tourists starting their walk down to the falls. Good timing I think.



Back to the van and it was time to leave Oregon and head over to the California Coast to Crescent City. The drive down over Grants Pass was just as stunning as it was last time and driving through the giant Redwoods is an awesome feeling.

Arriving in Crescent City we found a Super 8 Motel and settle in for the night.
We had heard earlier in our trip that Super 8 Motels were not the best, but the ones we stayed at seemed OK for the price. But after sleeping in the van for a few days any bed was pretty good.

[john.waters]

Day 49 – Thursday 27th June 2013– Crescent City, California – Fort Braggs – Novato CA, just north of San Francisco- 368 Miles

Up at 8am and on the road nearly strait away. Another beautiful sunny day as we cruised along while enjoying the coastal views and the drive through the giant Redwoods.

A brief stop off at Klamath to the Information Centre and a few photos of the Giant Paul Bunyan and his Blue ox Babe.

The museum is also home to the most fascinating collection of Indian artefacts. The collection was donated by a private collector. There is also a great gift shop as well and helped us add weight to our ever growing luggage.





Continuing on down the coast I found another place that I had over shot and missed last trip. Avenue of the Giants.
What fantastic drive through the giant Redwoods. By this time my wife had fallen ill to a migraine and found her way into the back of the van where she stayed for the rest of the day.








I still managed to get out and take a few photos and let her rest in peace.

Back on the highway I continued on until Leggett where I took what I thought would be a nice drive down to the Coast and Fort Braggs. It turned out to be a couple of hours of very windy road down to the ocean.

I enjoyed the drive but my sick passenger in the back was rolling from one side of the van to the other as I negotiated all the bends. On a few occasions I was reminded that it was uncomfortable in the back. Words to that effect anyway.

Once the mountains opened up to the ocean I was greeted with some beautiful ocean views and the fog which seemed to have a firm hold on the California Coastline. All along the coast were little villages of campers on the beach. I thought of stopping but was more interested in finding a motel for the night for my wife.

Arrived in Fort Braggs late afternoon and the fog was getting heavier and made going down to the beach less inviting. A quick check on my wife to see if she was still OK I looked for a road back to the highway.








I found a road through the hills and forests again but a lot less winding but still a very pleasant and interesting drive. Of course a few stops for a photo.



Back on the highway I just kept driving until I found a motel for the night. We ended up staying at a place called Novato and only 20 miles from San Francisco.

No sooner I had picked up the keys my sick wife was strait into bed. I spent the evening on the laptop catching up with the family at home.

[john.waters]

Day 50 – Friday 28th June 2013– Novato CA - San Francisco- 22 Miles

With only a short drive to San Francisco we slept in until 9am and had breakfast at the motel before leaving. We were also advised to wait until after 9am to avoid the peak hour traffic.

With Sandy feeling better I had company along side me in the van.
Without her sitting in the passenger seat I have previously sat in the wrong side of the van after getting fuel or after a stop. Quite often a few strange looks from people as I realise there isn’t a steering wheel on that side. Also she is a great navigator and keeps check on my speed too.

I set the GPS to The Chelsea Motor Inn, Lombard St, San Francisco. I looked at the map and had a fair idea of where to go, so I just motored along.





Our GPS kept saying Recalculate and wouldn’t come up with a route for us to follow. It wasn’t long before I realised my mistake. I had the GPS set to avoid Toll Roads and as we were coming in along the coast there was no other way except over the Bridge.

Once we crossed over the GPS worked fine and took us to our motel. Now we had better remember to let the Van Hire Company know so the toll could be paid.

This was our first time in San Francisco and looked to be everything I thought it would be. I think it would be easy to spend a week or two here. That will be another time though as we only had two days and two nights here this visit.

Last trip to the USA I overshot San Francisco. We were staying in Yosemite NP and heading to Oregon. Someone suggested we go through Sacramento and across to the coast. Not only did we miss San Francisco but overshot Avenue of the Giants. But all is good as we had a reason to come back, and we did.

We were too early to book into our motel so the reception gave us some directions and we headed off on foot towards the piers.



It was a leisurely 15 minute walk and we were greeted with views of the Bay and the yachts practicing for the America Cup. It was still quite foggy over the water but could still get a view of Alcatraz Island.





Getting a bit hungry, so it was off to Tarintinos waterfront restaurant for lunch. Clam Chowder and Sourdough for the wife and fish and chips for me. A good introduction to San Francisco. A nice place just to sit and watch the world go by.



After lunch we found our way to a tourist information centre and ended up booking a trip to Alcatraz and a Night City Bus tour for the next day, as well as a hop on hop off bus pass.

We managed a few hours on the double decker bus before getting off at our motel and finally checking in.



With sunset approaching we decided to do a bit of a tourist drive ourselves and headed off in the van. First on the list was Lombard St to drive the crooked street. It took a bit of finding but worth the effort.










It was also the first time on the trip that I took a long right hand turn instead of a short right and was heading directly towards a police car waiting at the lights. A quick turn of the wheel had me back on my side of the road.
Next it was across the Bay Bridge and back before finding a spot to get a few sunset shots.
After dark we were lucky enough to find a car park near the Pier and spent the rest of the evening walking around and taking in the atmosphere.







More Clam Chowder for dinner before heading back to the motel. Another big day over in the USA.
It’s amazing how much you can cram into a day when you’re having fun.


More Clam Chowder for dinner before heading back to the motel. Another big day over in the USA.
It’s amazing how much you can cram into a day when you’re having fun.

[john.waters]

Day 51 – Saturday 29th June 2013– San Francisco – A few miles on Foot

As much as we would have liked to sleep in, we had to be at the tourist information centre by 8.30 am to see if we could get an early ticket to Alcatraz.

We were up by 7am for breakfast and after a brisk walk we made it to the office by 8.30am.We managed to get a 1.30 pm tour to Alcatraz so that gave us time to explore in the morning and a sunset bus tour afterwards.

First stop was the Wax Museum where we mingled with all the Hollywood Celebrities and other stars from around the world. I think some of the models are in better shape than the currently living ones.







A short walk after leaving the Museum has us lined up for a Cable Car ride up and down all those steep streets. We stayed on the car for as long as we could. We wanted to get a return ticked but were told we had to get off and get another car back.






Running out of time and not wanting to miss the trip to Alcatraz, we finally caught a cab to Pier 33. It got us there a lot quicker as well as cheaper and the cabbie gave us a good rundown on life in San Francisco. Like most big cities it’s a bit different once you remove a bit of the glitter.

After a wait in the line up to the Alcatraz cruise and the security photo that every attraction must take and just so happens you can buy a copy on your return, we boarded the boat for a pleasant 20 minute cruise over to the Island.



Like most people we took the audio guided tour of the prison. It gave a good idea on what life as a prisoner would have been like.







With plenty of photos to remember the place by and after another hour or so wandering around the island it was time to join the line of waiting tourists ready to leave the island.

After getting back to the pier another hour or so was spent walking along and checking out all the shops on the piers.
Back over to the Tourist Information Centre it was onto the Double Decker bus and off on our sunset tour.



The tour took us all through the city and under and over the Bay Bridge before finally dropping us back at the bus stop. I think it was great value for money and certainly learnt a lot about San Francisco in a couple of hours.








Dinner was a Subway followed by a long tiring walk back to our Motel in Lombard Street. By the time we got back it was after 10.30 pm and totally exhausted.

I think by this stage of or our road trip I started feeling the need to slow down a bit. It was getting harder and harder to get moving of a morning and I was looking forward to a motel rather than a truck stop or RV Park at the end of the day.
Starting to show my age I think.

[john.waters]

Day 52 – Sunday 30th June 2013– San Francisco – Crane Flat Campground – Yosemite National Park – Yosemite Village – Crane Flat Campground. 233 Miles

Up at 7am and on the road by 8.30am. After spending two days in San Francisco it was time to leave and head to Yosemite National Park and our last two nights sleeping in the van.

If we ever get back to the USA for our Canada and Alaska Road Trip we will start from San Francisco. I would love to explore some more of the city and spend some more time photographing the city at night. We could then see a bit more of Oregon on the way up.
Well that’s another dream I have anyway. I have the trip all planned out so just a matter of time and money I suppose.

The drive across to Yosemite National Park was an easy drive and the scenery beautiful as always. We found our way to Crane Flat and picked put a nice shady Camp Spot.



Even though it was summer vacation there were still a few vacant campsites. We had noticed over the past few weeks that quite a few rest areas and amenities in the National Parks were still closed. I’m not sure of the reason why, but maybe a funding shortage.

We left Crane Flat and took a nice slow drive down into Yosemite Village. We stocked up on a few groceries and souvenirs while we were there.
A favourite meal while camping was pulled pork and we just happened to come across Jack Daniels pulled pork. So we looked for it all the time.



On our previous trip I missed out on going to the Ansell Adams Gallery so we made a point of taking a walk to find it just outside the village centre... A truly inspiring photographer and one I have admired for some time.



With evening approaching we took the 30 minute or so drive back to Crane Flat and cooked up out pulled pork before hitting the bed.