July 10

Today we head west on the A39 to Lynton and Lynmouth, twin towns where one is a small rural town high up on the cliff above and the other, Lynmouth is a harbour village down below. The two are 'joined' by the famous Victorian Cliff railway built in 1890 which operates using cables and water to counter balance the two carriages.

First though we have to tackle Porlock Hill, a famous section of road with very steep and tight hairpin turns that climbs some 1300ft in under 2 miles distance. At the bottom of the hill is the town of Porlock where, I can only presume, the Local's have got used to the smell of burnt out brakes and hot clutches as cars drive through after the decsent. The 4WD and V6 engine makes light work of going up the hill of which I have driven many times. Once we are up and over the top we are treated to more incredible views of the moors and stunning coastline. At this point we take a detour off the main road and down some narrow countryside lanes through Malmsmead and Oare surrounded by lush, rolling green hills beside streams and the sound of babbling brooks to Lorna Doone valley. The local lanes, as mentioned earlier, are very narrow as are the bridges which are to narrow for some vehicles to use. This gives you the choice of 'bridge or river' to continue your journey beyond the river, and I usually choose the narrow strip of concrete that the water runs over to cross, because.... well just because !

From here we continue towards Lynton and Lynmouth via Brendon to Watersmeet, a National trust area of outstanding natural beauty. Here we stop for refreshments and sit for a while watching the small waterfall and the power of the river carving it's way through rocks and tree branches, that have made their way down the river after winter storms and got trapped by the rocks.

From here we walk the 2 miles alongside the river to Lynmouth, which in 1952 was victim to the 'Great flood' caused by heavy rains flowing off the surrounding hills that created a forty foot wall of water to charge into town along the East and West Lyn rivers and wash away bridges and buildings and claim the lives of 34 souls. The Memorial hall stands in the middle of the town as a tribute and reminder of this tragedy.

We look around the harbour town shops and make our way to the Cliff railway to venture 'up top' and continue our walk to the 'Valley of the Rocks', a truly awe inspiring place where the moorland plunges hundreds of feet to the sea. With a narrow footpath clinging to the side of the cliff, it is a wonderful walk, although not for those with a fear of heights ! It doesn't appear to have any affect on the goats that cling to the side at impossible angles to get the greenest of green grass ! Having taken the 'lazy way up' via the railway, we walk back down the extremely steep path admiring the views. Houses clinging to the cliff top are just a few yards away, yet we are level with there roof tops and chimneys, that's how steep it is !

A walk back along the river and up out of the steep gorge to the car where we drive back to the A39 at Lynmouth and up the long steep gradient of Countisbury hill and back to the campsite, a long exhausting day but very rewarding.

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