The Lady in the Van - A roadtrip

[Lifemagician]

Left Lethbridge quite late, as it took a while to pack up my van again. Headed straight for Calgary, a nice town I have enjoyed in the past, and did again this time.

It has surprised me that Canola is grown so far north, as it is in these regions. At home it is grown in quite a hot climate, but apparently it adepts quite well to the cooler shorter season. It sure made the country side look bright with Canola fields in flower right to the horizon.

There are two FJs in Calgary, in the past I have stayed at the southern end of town. This time the northern end was more appropriate. It was about six miles out of town, but on my way for the next day.

8th July.

Headed straight up the road to Red Deer, where again I planned to stay at the FJ. Had some time to look around, it is a bigger place than I had remembered. However, I cut the day short, and turned in quite early..... still drinking nothing but water!

These were days just to get from one place to another, taking it easy and slowly to give my head a rest.

(Odo - 144450)

Lifey

[Lifemagician]

Yoho National Park.

[One of my hobbies has for decades been doing jigsaw puzzles. Last year I was doing a puzzle named Yoho NP. A beautiful picture, I decided to see where it is. When I noticed that it would not be all that far off my trip to AK, I resolved to put it on my list. So glad I did. The puzzle is on my kitchen wall.]

Rocky Mountain House was a lovely place to stop before heading into the mountains. After lunch I continued along highway 11 through the Rocky Mountain Forest Reserve to Banff NP, where I turned south. At Lake Louise I picked up highway 1, over Kicking Horse Pass and into Yoho NP. As if on cue, as I entered the mountains it started to rain.

Seemed strange, but I had to pay to transit through Banff NP (where I was not going to stay), but was not charged for entry into Yoho NP (where I was planning to spend some time).

Again the visitor centre was my first stop. Two places were accessible, and they were two of the most popular. The upper two campgrounds were full, but there was ample space in the lower - Hoodoo - campground. It was self registration on a first come best dressed basis.

Spent some time in the little village of Field - where the visitor centre is. A lovely little place with probably half a dozen streets and a (freight only) railway crossing. The latter is an important feature of the town, as it cuts the town in half. When one of these mile or two mile long freight trains comes through, at a snail's pace. You can wait up to 20 mins to get to the other part of town. On the other hand, it was a great conversation piece, and small boys, and their not so small fellow travellers were kept entertained counting carriages and timing the passing of the lot.

By now it was mid afternoon, and pouring, and miserable. I enjoyed the scenery, as I had, from the car, as I headed down the mountain to the said campground. As I approached I decided that this was not the weather in which I wanted to enjoy a NP campground, and continued on to Golden, where there is a Husky truckstop.

Down the mountain I went, out of the park, only to face a sign stating Ten Mile Hill. I never did measure if it is actually 10 miles, but what I do know is that it is STEEP and winds down the mountain. A hell of a ride. Car in low gear, I still had to use the brakes.

Golden was welcoming, despite the continuing rain, with good wifi at Maccas and ample room at Husky with a whole block next to them for RVs, Trucks, Campers, etc.

Next morning it was back up Ten Mile Hill to go see the specific attractions I had been advised. First was Natural Bridge, which was really impressive and a good spot for great photos. Then onto Takakkawa Falls, 254 metres high and fed by Daly Glacier, 350 metres from the Falls. Took many photos here, from every angle, as I was able to get all around the area and almost to the base. If I had got any closer I would have been drenched.

Among some of the highest falls in North America and the third highest in Canada, the falls actually break a quarter of the way down, and continue to the valley floor. If it weren't for my love of jigsaw puzzles, I may never have seen them.

Another ride down Ten Mile Hill followed, and I continued my scenic ride to Sicamous, where I had stayed at the Husky last AK trip. They have a good restaurant, with great staff willing to please, and wifi!

Husky Sicamous BC

(Odo - 144955)

Lifey

[Midwest Michael]

I was just in many of those same places.

Yoho may also have been my favorite park in the Canadian Rockies. Field was a very nice place, and the town's two restaurant's were both amazing. I also loved Takakkaw Falls, and would have probably spent hours there, except I underestimated how close you'd be able to get to the falls, but between the water from the spray, along with the 55F temperatures, I started to get a little cool in shorts and a tshirt.

You didn't miss out on anything by skipping Hoodoo, as it was by far the worst campground I stayed at on my entire trip. Sites on the outside of the loop were ok, but the middle of the campground had about 20 sites crammed into an area where there should have been no more than 5 or 10.

I also got to enjoy 10 mile hill - including one round trip in a School Bus, as part of a rafting trip on the Kicking Horse that was based out of Golden.

[Lifemagician]

... and the town's two restaurant's were both amazing.

So..... did you make a pig of yourself..... as you were invited to do?

Lifey

[Midwest Michael]

I'll just say this, I was seriously tempted to actually lick my plate.... but I refrained.

[Lifemagician]

More days of just putting some miles away. Fortunately, all the way from Sicamous to Dawson Creek, via Prince George are national scenic highways. Along the Trans Canada Highway to Cache Creek, up the Cariboo Highway - BC-97 - to Prince George, where I spent the night at a Shell/FJ truck stop. Small, nice and clean, with excellent wifi, but no restaurant.

Next day it was up the John Hart Highway to Dawson Creek. Made my way to the Mile '0' RV park - which now has a remote office for check ins - where I planned to stay for two nights. Nothing much else had changed in Dawson Creek. The visitor centre was already closed when I arrived. A trip downtown to get some supplies, then the laundry and dishes. Mile '0' campground has excellent camp kitchen and laundr6y facilities..... and they were in constant use. Their wifi was pretty good too.

It was here, in downtown Dawson Creek, that a vehicle threw up a stone which hit my 6 week old, $200 windscreen and put a large chip in it. I neither saw it coming, nor know which vehicle it was. We were after all on a paved highway. I better not repeat here what I said/thought!

They weren't particularly long days. I had ample time to pull over and take a break

(Odo - 145626)

Lifey

[DonnaR57]

Stayed in the same RV park back in 2000. The little pioneer park that was nearby was very interesting for our daughters.

As you may know, windshield cracks are very common up there. Hopefully you were able to find someone that could repair it rather than have to replace it again?


Donna

[Lifemagician]

The night of the 13th was actually spent in Fort Nelson, not Dawson Creek. The drive to Ft Nelson was smooth, not too much traffic as well as a complete absence of wildlife.

3G has not changed at all either. The restaurant, the wifi and the facilities are still the same, quite good, and popular. Given that it is the only decent RV spot in town. Those who stay there are for the most part transiting on their way north. The one thing which sets this place apart is the signs. You won't find a "SLOW - children at play" sign. Instead, there is an attractive sign saying "SLOW - grandparents at play"!

In 2012, on my return,, I noted (post #74) what appeared to be a 'new' section of the Alaska Highway. A section which I had not seen on my previous trips. Now it brought back all the memories of that trip.... the freshly cut rock, the rocky canyon and Folded Mountain.

Shortly after leaving Fort Nelson, there was, on the right hand side a finger board pointing to 'Old Alaska Highway' - read 'original Alaska Highway. I did not twig to its significance, until I was well and truly on the 'new' highway carved out of the rocky mountains. At Muncho, in fact right at Jack's Place, (see post #74 as above) the road returns to the 'old' highway.

In Watson Lake, at the visitor centre, there were quite a few people expressing their disappointment at not having seen any wildlife, safe for a small herd of bison at Laird River. A disappointment I shared. When speaking with the ever helpful staff, I was shown what work has already been done, and what is planned for the future, to 'straighten' a crooked road.

For me this is like a double edged sword, on the one hand, the new road is devoid of wildlife, not even mountain goats or dall sheep were seen. On the other hand, the original highway, now no longer sees all those big trucks and heavy transports. Let's hope that with the quieter original highway, wildlife will return to the area. It definitely should reduce the carnage of wildlife. Yes, it takes longer, and yes it is a more mountainous road, but back in 2004 and 2009 the wildlife - moose, grizzly, black bear, sheep and goats - were prolific along this section. Hopefully in future, those who choose to take the original highway will again enjoy the thrill of seeing all these wonderful creatures in the wild.

From the plans I could not make out if Jack's Place will be affected, or if it will still be part of the Alaska Highway. It would be a shame if future travellers were denied the hospitality of this old establishment. Enjoyed a hearty meal of soup and homemade bread. Among the many other facilities Jack provides are showers for CA$5.

Having stayed at the same RV parks as on my previous trips, I was disappointed that in Watson Lake, it had closed. There is another in town, but it is focused on RVs and expensive. At the visitor centre I was told that at the truck stop across the road from the 'sign forest' I could park for $20. They have a dozen or so hookup sites as well as room for those without hookups, and even tents if required. Very nice facilities with security code entry. Not a camping spot, but definitely a good place to stay overnight.

Tags (Husky) Watson Lake.

(Odo - 146215)

Lifey

[It is most frustrating/discouraging to continue these posts without being able to include photos.]

Mod Edit: What is the issue with the photos?

[Lifemagician]

"Mod Edit: What is the issue with the photos?"

Everytime I go to upload photos - one at a time, I do, and all goes smooth. It says I have successfully uploaded it, and when I look in the album, there is nothing there. Been trying it for weeks.

Lifey

[Lifemagician]

Robert Campbell Highway

There was no shortage of other travellers at Watson Lake visitor centre to give me advice and warn me that it is not a major highway, and would be very dangerous to attempt. Poor things, they don't know what they miss out on, with that attitude.

The staff though were much more encouraging, and even have a mile by mile running sheet for the road. Sure there was construction going on, which was a bit tricky, but about 50% is sealed, the rest is an excellent gravel road.

When I got to the turn off to the Tungsten mine, I pulled into the large roadside rest area and made lunch. As I was finishing the last few mouthfulls, I noticed that two other vehicles had stopped there, with a lot of men walking around.

As they got back in their trucks, I went out to speak with them before they left. I wanted to know what they knew about the road to the mine. So happened that they were on their way to work at the mine. Most assured me that it was an OK road, narrow and hilly with a fair amount of heavy truck traffic. It was three hours to the mine..... and three hours back again. Phew!!

They were glad I had come out of my vehicle, as they had been arguing among themselves as to what flag it was in the back window of my van. Only one got close by guessing it was NZ. Other guesses were so far out, that I told them they should have paid more attention in their geography lessons.

And then they were gone, in a cloud of dust.

I figured that if the road was busy with truck traffic, there would have to be sufficient room for two trucks to pass - so couldn't be all that narrow.

I did follow.... but only for about an hour. I was wrong. The road was narrow, but I did not see any vehicle while on it. I had been warned about convoys of large trucks. It is a good gravel road, some potholes, a bit of washboarding, and up and down hills the whole way. Along the way I saw the largest fields of fireweed I've ever seen - stunning. After about an hour there was a large area where lots of 44 gallon drums had been dumped. I took the opportunity to turn around. The road itself was no where near wide enough, even for a three point U turn.

That first night I pulled into a roadside clearing down by the rivers, under the Hoole River bridge.. Right at the spot where the Pelly and Hoole rivers come to flow as one. It was obvious I was not the first to stay here, as others had left the remains of their campfire, with all their thrash piled on it.

It rained that night, not something I was looking forward to on this gravel part of the road. When in the morning, I went to take a photo of the confluence of the two rivers, I noticed a paw print in the wet sand. A large paw it was, with large claws. I was told later that it was a grizzly. Obviously it had not been concerned about my presence. The photo I took of the river clearly shows the two rivers coming together, almost as if the waters are not mixing. The line is clearly visible.

The settlement of Ross River appeared as if there is nothing much there. At least, not that I could see with a quick drive through. Faro on the other hand was a different story. Here was a lovingly cared for visitor centre, where I was made most welcome, offered a cup of tea and generally shared in all they had to offer. Learned much in the adjoining museum of the Robert Campbell Highway, and the area's history going back eons.

And even here, in the back blocks of the Yukon, wifi was readily available - and free.

There was a supermarket and a few other general stores. From looking around and speaking with the ladies at the visitor centre, one got a sense of community. I was told about regular two day trips to Whitehorse for essentials and necessary appointments; and the challenges of winter driving.

I was by no means the only one on this road, and saw many RVs of all shapes and sizes parked in clearings at the roads' side.

From the works going on it was evident that it will not be long before the full length of this road is paved, and will no doubt become a regular alternative route for those heading to Dawson City.

Just south of where the road joins the Klondike highway is Coalmine Camp Ground - focused more on Tents than RVs. There were literally dozens of campers who were paddling the Yukon from Whitehorse to Dawson City - not as one group, but lots of small individually organised groups.

To facilitate a good experience, the campground has a large shelter, flywire screens all around, and full of picnic tables to seat more than 100 to eat, relax or just log into their wifi. A wide variety of hot food was available. In inclement weather this is available to tent campers. A nice place, very popular - even with RVs, though it only has room for some half dozen - and very reasonably priced.

(Odo- 146648)

Lifey