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Utah, Idaho, Colorado, Montana & N California - May/June 2016
I am in the middle of an extended road trip with an emphasis on visiting National Park sites in Utah, Idaho, Colorado, Montana and northern California. We left Tucson on Thursday, May 12 with the intention to travel directly north to the Canadian border, then work our way west and south. Part way through the trip our son requested that we come to their place in central California, sooner than planned, to help them out due to a non-emergency medical problem. They needed help with getting kids to and from school for a few days. Luckily on this trip we were flexible enough that re-routing was not a problem. We had only 1 reservation and that was at the beginning of the trip. While off the road for a few days, and access to WiFi, I will begin posting daily reports, then stop until we return home.
For those who have followed our previous trips you know our focus is visiting national park sites, hiking, bird watching, letterboxing, Quest Scouts, and being flexible along the way. I'll explain more about some of the activities in future posts. I have a public Instagram account which I posted to frequently throughout the trip - those posts can be found under SrJrRanger on Instagram.
Comments, questions, and corrections are always welcomed. Feel free to comment within the thread or via PM. I hope the information shared in this report will help someone along their route.
Pat
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If at first you don't succeed, try again... Day 1
Thursday, May 12, 2016
Start:Tucson, AZ
Finish: Hillside Campground @ Lynx Lake Prescott, AZ
First day on the road, heading north to cooler temperatures. The forecast was for the ice to break on the Santa Cruz River either today or tomorrow. Borrowed from the Alaskan tradition of predicting when the ice will break free on the Nenana River, Tucson has adopted this tradition for when the temperature reaches 100* for the first time each year. Locally known as Ice Break on the Santa Cruz River. A good time to leave!
Our first stop of the trip was to drive up to Crown King in the Bradshaw Mountains, this time off of I-17. The purpose of the visit was to get a picture of the store, a historic post office. As I have mentioned on previous posts my husband has created a website of historic (greater than 50 years old) post office buildings in Arizona. Last October we were on our way back from a family campout in Cottonwood, AZ when we decided to take the Senator Highway from Prescott, SE to Crown King. We both remembered driving this same route 30 years ago in a VW van and experiencing no road difficulties. Either our memory is flawed or the road has degraded. It was a road trip nightmare! The road kept getting worse and worse, with more and more sharp rocks. We ended up with a flat tire, which was a good thing. Just as we finished changing the tire a couple of guys came from where we were headed and told us the road got worse before you would arrive at Crown King. They helped to tighten out lug nuts and pointed us to a road that took us out quickly and became graded dirt quickly. Best advice - EVER!
So, with some research when we arrived back in Tucson we discovered two facts - the Senator Highway was no longer considered 2-WD, even with high clearance, and there was a better way to get to Crown King - much better! This was our first chance to return and it was a wonderful drive on a well-graded 2 WD dirt road, 26 miles off of I-17 near Black Canyon City. On the way you pass through Bumble Bee and Cleator. Cleator has a small store and active bar. Once leaving Cleator you climb from 2,500 ft to over 5,700 ft up gentle switchbacks. In a few places the road is one-lane, but never along steep cliffs, in fact well-maintained guard rails line the edges all along the route. Most of the drive is through open high-desert with great vistas. Just when you arrive in Crown King the environment changes to pine forest and a creek bed with water flowing. In a short distance you arrive at the center of town - OK, about 3-4 businesses; a general store & post office, a couple of restaurants and a couple of lodging options. There was much more activity than we expected. Inside the general store is an active post office and some great t-shirts plus wonderful fudge, made on the premises. We bought some fudge and consumed it before we left town for our afternoon snack.
Crown King General Store
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Fudge counter
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Saloon & Hotel
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The drive out was easy, knowing what to expect. At about mile 10 we were able to bear left and take a direct route over to Mayer and AZ 69 to Prescott. The reservable campground was booked for Friday night near Lynx Lake, but we were able to get 2 nights at the non-reservable Hilltop Campground, also at Lynx Lake. Both campgrounds are well designed with spacious sites, full price is $18.
We settled in by 5 PM and enjoyed some great bird watching and even had 2 large Black-tailed Jackrabbits come through. The temperature was in the low 80s to upper 70s, even after the sun set.
Campsite
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White-breasted Nuthatch
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Wildlife Sightings
Western Bluebird
Plain Titmouse
Tree Swallow
White-breasted Nuthatch
Cassin's Finch
Spotted Towhee
American Goldfinch
Acorn Woodpecker - heard
Black-tailed Jackrabbit
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Prescott, AZ - Day 2
Friday, May 13, 2016
Start & Finish: Prescott, AZ
Quiet morning in camp before we went a short distance down the road to Lynx Lake Cafe for a very tasty breakfast. From Spring through Fall the cafe is open Thursday - Monday for breakfast, lunch and dinner. They specialize in German cuisine, with everything on the menu fresh-made. When we finished breakfast they offered for us to share an apple strudel or bread pudding - we declined. On the weekend you can rent boats at the store.
Lynx Lake Cafe
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Lynx Lake
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We spent the morning hunting several letterboxes with less than great results. Along the way we found a small mound of rock with petroglyphs, right in the middle of an upscale development.
Enchanted Canyon area
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Pot shards
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Prescott has grown dramatically over the 30 plus years I have been visiting, but historic Whiskey Row has remained the same. As we drove through downtown Prescott we had a glimpse of Whiskey Row.
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It was in the upper 80s, too warm to do the hiking we had planned. We drove out along Senator Highway, 7 miles of paved road, from downtown Prescott to Groom Creek Schoolhouse, a USFS Day Use area. There is a $5 per vehicle fee, or no fee for eligible pass holder to explore the area around the historic schoolhouse and nature trail.
Groom Creek Schoolhouse - 1902
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We returned to camp mid-afternoon and enjoyed some peace and quiet before fellow campers arrived and became active. This campground was full, as well as the reservable one nearby. We enjoyed more bird watching, especially the Black-chinned hummingbirds which were frequent visitors to our feeder.
Bluebird box within our campsite - pair building a nest
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Wildlife Sightings
Spotted Towhee
White-breasted Nuthatch
Black-chinned Hummingbird
Tree Swallow
Western Bluebird
House Finch
Great-tailed Grackle
Double-created Cormorant
Acorn Woodpecker
Phainopepla
Common Raven
Black-throated Gray Warbler
Black-tailed Jackrabbit
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Hot to Cool - Central AZ to Flagstaff, Day 3
Saturday, May 14, 2016
Start: Prescott, AZ
Finish: Bonito Campground (USFS), N of Flagstaff
Breakfast in camp, then north on AZ 89A, heading over Mingus Mountain into Jerome. Along the way we did see Pronghorn grazing, just after passing the Yavapai County Fairgrounds. We were surprised at how full was the fairgrounds RV Park.
Note: this stretch of highway, 89A at Mingus Mountain, was recently in the news. A local man had driven over the side and was found 3 days later when tourists stopped to take pictures, they saw his car over the side. He was rescued and expected to recover.
The drive over Mingus Mountain on AZ 89A is always enjoyable. Jerome was not too busy as we drove through at 10:30 AM, even saw a few parking spaces available. On our way out of town we stopped at the old cemetery. It is just beyond the high school, down North Dr, with plenty of parking. The views back into Jerome and across the Verde Valley towards Flagstaff were great. Clouds were moving in which prevented a good picture to the north. The rusty iron fences around the grave sites, plus tall ground cover made for a good foreground.
Jerome, AZ
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Today was our first day to visit National Park Service (NPS) sites, a major focus of this trip. Our first stop was in Clarkdale at Tuzigoot National Monument. The high temperature was forecast to be 99* and by 11:30 it was very warm. We enjoyed the displays inside the cooler Visitor Center. The display of pots is impressive.
Tuzigoot Visitor Center
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Ruins
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We drove through Cottonwood and across AZ 260 to Camp Verde and Montezuma Castle National Monument. Again, it was too hot to explore the ruins (both of which I have visited numerous times over the years). We enjoyed a picnic lunch under the cottonwoods, along Wet Beaver Creek.
Montezuma Castle NM cottonwoods
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Today's Temperature
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Heading north on I-17 we drove through Flagstaff and went directly to Bonito Campground, right across from the Sunset Crater National Monument Visitor Center, to make sure we got a campsite on a Saturday evening. We arrived by 2 PM and had plenty of sites from which to select. This seems to be our go-to campground as we start or finish a trip. Besides its location near Flagstaff the sites and environment are very nice, large sites on cinders. This campground does not take reservations and seldom fills, according the campground hosts.
Once we set up our chairs we headed up US 89 to the turnoff for Wupatki National Monument and the 33 mile scenic drive back to Sunset Crater NM and back to the campground. It was cooler once we arrived in Flagstaff, mid-70s, but some dark clouds were moving into the area. As we headed back south, stopping at Wupatki Visitor Center, the rain and wind started.
Wupatki Ruin - notice the solid rock with the ruin built on top and alongside
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Once back at camp we were driven inside by rain showers several times throughout the evening. While on our evening walk around the campground another shower started before we were back to the van. Besides having hummingbirds at our feeder we enjoyed watching the beautiful Abert's Squirrels scampering around the campground.
Wildlife Sightings
Bushtit
Tree Swallow
Black-chinned Hummingbird
White-breasted Nuthatch
Western Bluebird
Common Raven
American Goldfinch
Red-tailed Hawk
Turkey Vulture
Broad-tailed Hummingbird
Pronghorn
Abert's Squirrel
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Dwarf Planet to Grand Canyon NP - Day 4
Sunday, May 15, 2016
Start: Flagstaff, AZ
Finish: Mather Campground (NPS), Grand Canyon NP, AZ
Woke up to wind in the pines, it was predicted to have high winds throughout today. We went into Flagstaff for a quick breakfast before going out to Walnut Canyon NM. The main trail, Island Trail, was closed for repairs until 5/31. I had forgotten that you could see a number of ruins from the back porch, some that are not accessible from the Island Trail.
Walnut Canyon - ruins
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Before leaving the area we drove out the dirt road near the entrance to an Arizona Trail access parking lot. We walked out along the trail for a short distance. This is a nice section of trail, with beautiful Ponderosa Pines.
Ponderosa Pine
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While in Flagstaff we looked for some letterboxes, signed up for a volkswalk along the rim of the Grand Canyon and visited Lowell Observatory, Home of Pluto. We did not take the tour, but stopped by for the new series of smashed pennies. While there I was pleased to see they were taking the downgrading of Pluto to a Dwarf planet.
Dwarf planet discount
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Dwarf planet naming
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In the lobby was a display of a 525 Pound meteorite from the late 1800s which landed near Meteorite Crater. The plaque on the wall gave the display history, spending a good deal of time at Verkamp's Store on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon until the family closed the store in 2008. Between the Verkamp family and descendant's of the original discoverer it was determined to be displayed at Lowell Observatory. Great to see it in a scientific setting.
Verkamp's Meteorite & plaque
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After some discussion we decided to headed over to Williams on I-40 then north on AZ 64. After lunch in Williams we headed to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park. A few weeks ago, once we had decided our departure date, I was able to book at campsite at Mather Campground. At that time there were not a lot of sites available. When we arrived - Campground Full sign was posted. We enjoyed dinner at the Yavapai Pub - good pub food and fresh, local AZ beer. It is a small space, does not feel like you are in a very crowded national park.
Wildlife Sightings
Abert's Squirrel
Horned Lizard
Lizard
Mule Deer
American Elk
Common Raven
Western Bluebird
TurkeyVulture
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Grand Canyon NP to Lee's Ferry - Day 5
Monday, May 16, 2016
Start : Grand Canyon NP, South Rim
Finish: Lee's Ferry Campground (NPS), Glen Canyon NRA, AZ
After being rudely awakened by a very loud Raven perched over our van we got up and went over to Maswik Lodge cafeteria for breakfast. We used to have breakfast at the Yavapai cafeteria, closer to the campground, but they have changed their menu to be full meals, no a la carte and very expensive. Maswik has lots of a la carte and made to order breakfast items, reasonably priced.
We then walked over to the rim, a nice short walk from Maswik, and hiked east for 1-1/2 miles before turning around. Lots of people watching and foreign languages to be heard.
Along the way we walked by Verkamp's Visitor Center, this is the building where the meteorite mentioned in yesterday's post was stored for many years.
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Just before we were crossing the railroad tracks a train approached, not the tourist train from Williams. It was labeled Grand Canyon Railway and had a couple of water tank cars and the rest appeared to be open coal/ore cars. Anyone know the purpose of this train?
Grand Canyon Railway?
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After showers, at the laundry/shower building near the campground, we drove east towards Cameron. While inside the Tusayan Museum a young child told the ranger there was a snake inside. They went over and identified it as a harmless Bull snake. The ranger awarded this child with a Junior Ranger badge for her alertness and responsible reporting skills.
We stopped at Lipan Point, just west of Desert View, and were amazed at the spectacular views into the canyon; three different sections of the Colorado River. It was also much less crowded than Desert View. As we had left the Village area rain showers had followed us along the rim. Those clouds added to the views.
Grand Canyon NP -Lipan Point
View to the West
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View looking north
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We ended the day at Lee's Ferry within Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. After Cameron AZ 89 continues north towards Page, just before the climb up to Page AZ 89A splits off tomthe west to cross the Colorado River at Marble Canyon. There is a visitor center there and the old highway bridge which you can still walk across and look into the canyon. Lee's Ferry just a couple of miles from this area is the take-off point for most of the Colorado River raft trips.
Wildlife Sightings
Common Raven
Brewer's Blackbird
Western Bluebird
Western Kingbird
Great-tailed Grackle
Violet-green Swallows
Rock Squirrel
Spiny Lizard
Mule Deer
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A couple of the engines for the GCRR evidently run on French fry oil -- no longer running steam engines, I gather. Perhaps the "oil" is French fry oil for the engines? :-)
Donna
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Grand Canyon North Rim - Day 6
Tuesday, May 17, 2017
Start & Finish: Lee's Ferry Campground, Glen Canyon NRA
Breakfast in camp, then explored Historic Lee's Ferry along the Colorado River. There were several rafting companies getting ready to take off down the Colorado River.
Lee's Ferry
Boiler
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Lee's Fort
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Flycatcher
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We then drove up the Kaibab Plateau on AZ 89A to Jacobs Lake where we stopped at the Inn for our cookie fix! We can't bypass the bakery counter! Before topping out on the plateau and along the Vermillion Cliffs I saw a California Condor, not far off the side of the road - always a treat!
Kaibab Plateau - meadow along AZ 64
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We continued south on AZ 64 to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, the road had just opened two days ago. Access to the North Rim is only available from May 15 to October 15. It was very busy today, it took 20 minutes to pass through the entrance station.
Mule Deer
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Larkspur
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North Rim view
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Back at camp a Spiny Lizard was sunning itself within our campsite when we returned.
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Wildlife Sightings
Spiny Lizard
Cottontail Rabbit
Ground Squirrel
Mule Deer
Bat
California Condor
Violet-green Swallow
Common Raven
Turkey Vulture
Steller's Jay
Red-tailed Hawk
Canyon Wren
Ash-throated Flycatcher
Great-tailed Grackle
Western Kingbird
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US 89 to Page, Kanab & Pipe Spring NM - Day 7
Wednesday, May 18, 2016
Start: Lee's Ferry, AZ
Finish: Paiute Tribal Campground, Pipe Springs, AZ
Light rain off and on most of the night made for a pretty morning with clouds decorating the cliffs.
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First stop was in Page for smashed pennies, supplies, gas and passport stamps at the headquarters office for the Glen Canyon NRA. We walked out to Hanging Gardens, this short trail is just before the bridge over the Colorado River and the dam.
Hanging Gardens
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Stopped at the Carl Hayden Visitor Center at Glen Canyon Dam to turn in completed Junior Ranger booklet for Glen Canyon NRA and Rainbow Bridge NM. In May 2013 we took the boat trip out to Rainbow Bridge. Access to park rangers and visitor services is limited within Glen Canyon NRA so I had downloaded the Junior Ranger booklet, which has both units, at home and worked on it before I arrived and while camping at Lee's Ferry. About half of the park sites have their Junior Ranger booklets online.
After a week on the road we crossed into Utah, temporarily.
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While in Kanab we stopped at the 2 BLM sites for passport stamps for Grand Staircase-Escalante NM and Old Spanish Trail NHT. We drove back into Arizona and ended the day at Pipe Springs NM. I picked up their Junior Ranger booklet, then ended the day at the Paiute Tribal Campground just up the road. To say it is a work in progress is kind. After registering at the convenience store on the highway we drove up to the campground. For $20 you get a gravel pull-through with full-hookups and porta potties; no picnic table or grill or any other amenities. There is a building on site which appears to have restrooms and showers, but is not open and there is no staff on site. It was quiet throughout the night.
Paiute Tribal Campground
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View of Pipe Springs NM from campground
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Penstemon - Pipe Spring NM Headquarters
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Wildlife Sightings
Great-tailed Grackle
Brewer's Blackbird
Common Raven
Violet-green Swallow
White-crowned Sparrow
House Sparrow
Mourning Dove
Say's Phoebe
Cottontail Rabbit
Side-blotched Lizard
Desert Spiny Lizard
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Pipe Springs NM then zooming through Zion NP - Day 8
Thursday, May 19, 2016
Start: Pipe Springs, AZ
Finish: Red Canyon Campground (USFS), Near Bryce Canyon, UT
Very quiet night in the campground. Woke up to clear skies, first time in several days. Went back to Pipe Springs NM to complete the Junior Ranger by taking the Winsor Castle tour and exploring the grounds. While I was doing that my husband spotted a number of birds.
Winsor Castle
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Longhorn cattle
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Once I received my Junior Ranger badge we continued west on AZ 389 back into Utah - it only took us a week to travel through Arizona!
We had planned to do a couple of things in Zion NP, but when we arrived at noon on a Thursday it was too crazy for us! We literally got the passport stamps and ran! There was no parking at the visitor center so I let my husband out and drove around the parking lot until he returned. People were squaring off over open spaces and following people to their cars. We'll go back in late Fall or early Spring. With little effort we can get there in 1-1/2 days from Tucson.
Zion NP
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We drove through the tunnel and headed back to US 89, then north to Red Canyon, the entrance to Bryce Canyon NP. We got a campsite at the USFS campground in red Canyon, our preferred camping spot. This campground even has showers! We went back into Panguitch for gas and a couple of letterboxes.
Red Canyon
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Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel - campsite buddy
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Wildlife Sightings:
Mourning Dove
Say's Phoebe
Yellow Warbler
Black Phoebe
Bewick's Wren
White-crowned Sparrow
Brewer's Blackbird
Gambel's Quail
Turkey Vulture
Common Raven
White-throated Swift
Western Kingbird
Red-tailed Hawk
Black-billed Magpie
American Robin
Mule Deer
Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel
Collared Lizard
Desert Spiny Lizard
Note: Back on the road today, June 8. I'll resume posting when we return to Tucson in a few weeks.
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Bryce Canyon NP & Burr Trail - Day 9
Friday, May 20, 2016
Start: Red Canyon, UT
Finish: Bullfrog Campground (NPS), Bullfrog, UT @ Glen Canyon NRA on Lake Powell
Woke up to an overcast sky and winds getting stronger, it was predicted to have winds up to 40 mph throughout the region today. We enjoyed a good breakfast at The Pines, just up the road from Red Canyon and before you turn into the road for Bryce Canyon NP. We've eaten there before and have always enjoyed the food and prices.
After stopping at the visitor center for Bryce Canyon NP we drove over to the parking area near Sunrise Point. I hiked down into the canyon about 1/2 mile before I realized I had not brought water. Even with the wind the hiking was great, not too cold or too warm. I exercised good judgement and went back to the top, happy to get some water when I got back to the car.
Bryce Canyon
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Before leaving the area we drove out on a remote road to find a letterbox near a rural cemetery. Back on Highway 12 we went to the Cannonville Visitor Center for the Grand Staircase-Escalante NM (BLM). This is a beautiful building with nice plantings outside. I watched the film for the monument as a part of their Junior Scientist program. Further up the road we stopped at their visitor center in Escalante for a final activity and while there received the Junior Scientist badge. We have always enjoyed watching and trying to identify lizards. The apps I have for lizards have not been detailed enough for what we see in our travels. This visitor center has a larger than life collared lizard sculpture and to our delight the bookstore had the definitive book on Southwestern lizards, 77 species identified with photos.
Collared Lizard sculpture posing with book
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Once we reached Boulder along Highway 12 we were taking new road - the Burr Trail. This road runs from Boulder to Bullfrog, on Lake Powell. It is a 75 mile dirt road, but about 2/3 has been paved with the middle section still dirt, but well graded and suitable for any 2 W/D vehicle in good weather. (Always check with any number local authorities to verify the condition of the road, follow any rental agreement restrictions and use common sense.) We were assured the road was in good condition for our cargo van.
The Burr Trail was created by John Atlantic Burr in the late 1800s to move cattle between winter and summer range through very rugged country; Waterpocket Fold, Burr Canyon and Muley Twist Canyon. Today this trail traverses through Grand Staircase-Escalante NM (BLM), Capitole Reef NP (NPS), Glen Canyon NRA (NPS) and BLM land. The drive was spectacular - I almost got tired of looking! The section through Capitol Reef NP and some BLM land remains unpaved to maintain the historic conditions. It is in this section that you drop down through a series of switchbacks at 12% grade for one mile. The road is wide enough for 2 cars and for the most part smooth, some washboarding in sections. The last 25 miles to Bullfrog is paved and appreciated. It took us 2 hours to travel the 75 miles.
Burr Trail
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Once at Bullfrog we were pleased to see the visitor center for this section of the Glen Canyon NRA open, they have the only NPS Centennial stamp for this park unit, not at Page or other sections that are a bit more accessible. There is a fully paved road which heads north through Hanksville, UT to I-70. For some odd reason they were sent the only NPS Centennial stamp for this unit and I was able to confirm its existence for our club, National Park Travelers Club. Mission accomplished!
Glen Canyon NRA - NPS Centennial stamp
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The wind remained strong all day and was not conducive to sitting out at the campsite. Luckily at Bullfrog there is a lodge with a restaurant. We enjoyed some local beer and a pizza while overlooking slickrock.
Slickrock view from bar
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Wildlife Sightings
Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel
Pronghorn (adult with juvenile)
Least Chipmunk
Red Squirrel
Rock Squirrel
Great-tailed Grackle
Common Raven
Western Bluebird
Turkey Vulture
Black-billed Magpie
American Goldfinch
Mourning Dove
Black-chinned Hummingbird
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Blown through Capitol Reef NP - Day 10
Saturday, May 21, 2016
Start: Bullfrog, UT
Finish: Nephi, UT
The wind stayed strong all night long and was predicted to blow all day today. After showers (no fee) next to the laundromat, we headed north on UT 276 and UT 95 to Hanksville, then west to Capitol Reef National Park. The drive up, all on paved roads was beautiful, but not quite as spectacular as the Burr Trail.
Flowers along the way
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Before we reached Capitol Reef National Park we had decided to not camp and get over to I-15, good plan because when we arrived at the campground, by noon, it was full. The parking lot to the visitor center was the busiest we had ever seen.
Capitol Reef NP parking
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Capitol Reef NP
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We drove into Torrey and had a delicious burger at Slackers, highly recommended! The drive over to I-15, ending in Nephi was uneventful, but beautiful. The mountains were snowcapped and the creeks and rivers were running strong. Oh, and the wind was still roaring!
Wildlife Sightings
Mourning Dove
Black-billed Magpie
Violet-green Swallow
American Coot
Red-winged Blackbird
European Starling
California Gull
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Caves and Rails - Day11
Sunday, May 22, 2015
Start: Nephi, UT
Finish: Wolf Den RV Park, Etna, WY
We stayed at the Motel 6 on the south edge of Nephi. This was one of the nicest ones we have stayed at, and for less than $50 for 2. The laundry room was clean and the machines worked well. In the morning I was able to get hot water for my tea. Coffee is routinely provided, a few have tea, but most do not. It was $20 cheaper than the next Motel 6 in Provo, less than an hour away. Where we stayed did not matter so the rate was great and the facility top-notch.
No wind this AM! After a quick breakfast we headed north on I-15 and went up to Timpanogos Cave NM. This is up a beautiful canyon between Lehi and American Fork. We have toured the cave in the past and camped nearby. The creek was running fast and noisy. The cliffs are so steep and rugged.
Timpanogos Canyon
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Silver Creek
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Back to I-15 and the west on UT 83 to Golden Spike NHS. The road borders the Bear Lake NWR (visitor center closed on Sunday) and provided for some great bird viewing along the drive. We picnicked at a trailhead in the park then went to the visitor center. This was the last NPS site in Utah for me to complete the Junior Ranger program. Before leaving home I had downloaded and printed out the booklet. Last night I had spent time completing as much as I could before arriving on site. Once there I was able to finish and receive the badge after taking the pledge. They also gave me a booklet for another national program, Historic Program Junior Ranger Activity Book, for ages 7 and up. I'll be working on that over the summer.
Golden Spike NHS
Visitor Center display
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Meeting of the trains
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At this point we had to re-route our trip from the original plan so we could be in Central California after Memorial Day to help out our son and his family. We had planned to go north into Idaho, then tour all over Montana before heading west. Luckily we had nothing to prevent us from changing our plans. So today we headed towards Jackson, WY. From there we would work our way west across Idaho and then south to California.
This allowed us to follow a new route, one we had never driven and it turned out to be spectacular. We went north into Idaho in I-15, then east on US 30 through Lava Hot Springs and Soda Springs, then north on ID 34 past Grays Lake NWR, over to US 89. The views were big and hillsides green, with snow-capped mountains all around. The weather was cool with intermittent rain showers, including some hail and sleet, but not for long. The birding around the NWR was a highlight. Seeing a pair of Golden Eagles down on the ground, near the side of the road was special. I highly recommend this road to anyone traveling in the area. We ended up at a small RV park along US 89 so we could plug in and use our electric heater in the evening, and more importantly in the AM, when it was predicted to reach 31 degrees. Beautiful views all around.
Wildlife Sightings
European Starling
Western Meadowlark
House Sparrow
American Kestrel
Great Blue Heron - finally!!
Brewer's Blackbird
Mourning Dove
Canada Goose & goslings
Common Raven
White Pelican
Snowy Egret
Tern
Lark Sparrow
Swainson's Hawk
Black-billed Magpie
American Robin
Mallard
Golden Eagle- pair
American Crow
Sandhill Crane
White-faced Ibis
Killdeer
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Goats - Day 12
Monday, May 23, 2016
Start: Etna, WY
Finish: Baker Hole Campground (USFS), West Yellowstone, MT
Woke up to 29 degrees, glad to have the electric heater to run before we got up. Went into Alpine to treat ourselves at Delish Donuts - tasty small donuts and 1/2 off wonderful cinnamon rolls on Monday.
While following US 89 along the Snake River and before reaching Hoback Junction we found these 2 Mountain Goats in the MIDDLE of this very busy highway. We pulled ahead and I took these pictures from a distance. While taking the picture cars, trucks and busses went by, all slowing down, and the goats did not move an inch.
Mountain Goats
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Into Jackson and continuing our quest for the NPS Centennial stamps, found some at locations not previously reported in our National Park Travelers Club database. We traveled through Grand Teton NP, with some snow showers throughout the day.
From there we continued north into Yellowstone NP, several visitor centers had not opened for the season. We stopped at Old Faithful, which was quite busy. Then, Norris Geyser Basin, first time we have been able to get a parking place in several visits. Before stopping in Mammoth we went into Gardiner to get the passport stamp at the Yellowstone Association building. Before leaving we wanted an afternoon treat, not much was open for the season. The Mammoth Hot Springs area was very busy.
The drive from Mammoth to Madison and then out to West Yellowstone was enjoyable for the most part, almost no traffic at 4:30 PM. However we did have 2 'bear jams', both only lasting for a few minutes, not an hour as has been reported during the summer season. The first bear was so far away you would have to have a very powerful scope or lens to see any detail. The second sighting was across the Madison River and was definitely a Grizzly. It ambled over to the river, took a drink and went back into the willows. The road traffic never stopped, just coasted through.
Happily Baker Hole Campground, north of West Yellowstone, was open for the season and had electric sites. The low was predicted to be 31 degrees.
Wildlife Sightings
Mountain Goat
Elk
Coyote
Pronghorn
Bison
Grizzly Bear
Cottontail Rabbit
Osprey
Common Raven
American Crow
American Robin
Tree Swallow
White Pelican
Black-billed Magpie
Mountain Bluebird
Canada Goose & goslings
Mallard
Trumpeter Swan
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Whispering Giant to Craters of the Moon - ID, Day 13
Tuesday, May 24, 2016
Start: West Yellowstone, MT
Finish: Craters of the Moon NM & NP
It was not as cold as the previous morning, but we still enjoyed the electric heater to take the chill off while we had breakfast, in the van. We stopped at the West Yellowstone Visitor Center for the last passport stamp for the park. Before leaving town we found a few letterboxes. Along US 20 at the ID-MT border my husband planted a letterbox along the CDT - Continental Divide Trail, the hiking trail that reaches from the Mexican border to the Canadian border, over 3,000 miles as it follows the crest of the Continental Divide. A very tough trail to hike!
CDT
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We continued down US 20 to Idaho Falls, stopping in St. Anthony for an unremarkable Mexican lunch. In Idaho Falls we sought out the Whispering Giant sculpture for Idaho. This was one was placed in November 1980, is made of Douglas Fir and stands 27 ft tall.
Idaho's Whispering Giant Sculpture, by Peter Toth,
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Continuing west on US 20 we ended the day at a favorite NPS site, Craters of the Moon National Monument and National Preserve. We found a good campsite and enjoyed our first 'camping' evening after several days of less than great weather. It was hitting 70 degrees again as we set up camp, which we enjoyed, until some dark clouds moved over.
Campsite
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Yellow-bellied Marmots - kept an eye on us
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Dwarf Monkeyflower
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Cinquefoil
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Lava flow
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Wildlife Sightings
Pronghorn
Wyoming Ground Squirrel
Yellow-bellied Marmot
Long-tailed Weasel
Least Chipmunk
Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel
Ruby-crowned Kinglet
Common Raven
American Robin
Violet-green Swallow
Canada Goose
California Gull
Trumpeter Swan
Red-winged Blackbird
White Pelican
Black-billed Magpie
American Crow
Clark's Nutcracker
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City of Rocks Nat'l Reserve - Day 14
Wednesday, May 25, 2016
Start: Craters of the Moon NM & NPres
Finish: Smoky Mountain Campground (Castle Rocks SP), Almo, ID
Enjoyed morning in the campground with a Least Chipmunk keeping an eye on us.
Least Chipmunk
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Dwarf Monkeyflowers
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Drove back and forth across Idaho to Minidoka NWR along the Snake River where we saw White Pelicans flying over in formation while we ate our picnic lunch. From there we headed south to City of Rocks National Reserve, near Almo, ID. When we arrived around 2 PM we found out the visitor center was closed for training today. As this was a place my husband needed the passport cancellation for his postal cancellation collection we decided to spend the night. The camping in the preserve is primitive, at best, and the weather was staying wet and cool. Within a mile of the visitor center was a state park campground with electric, water and showers.
We did some exploring of the preserve, which interprets the California Trail NHT, and is popular with rock climbers before relaxing in camp.
Treasure Rock
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California Trail
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We went back into 'town' and had dinner at the Almo Steakhouse before returning to camp just as the evening rain began.
Wildlife Sightings
Least Chipmunk
Yellow-bellied Marmot
Violet-green Swallow
Clark's Nutcracker
Turkey Vulture
American Coot
Yellow-headed Blackbird
Red-winged Blackbird
Common Raven
Northern Harrier
Black-billed Magpie
American Robin
White Pelican
Brewer's Blackbird
House Wren
Western Meadowlark
American Kestrel
Pine Siskin
Chipping Sparrow
Yellow-rumped Warbler
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Almo to Owls, ID into OR- Day 15
Thursday, May 26, 2016
Start: Almo, ID
Finish: Bully's Creek Reservoir, Vale, OR
There was a light rain shower in the early evening and then no more through the night. Woke up to blue skies and comfortable morning temperature. We went back into Almo, about 2 miles to the Tracy General Store for a tasty breakfast sandwich fixed in their deli. This store is open from 8 AM - 6 PM and serves as a community center. It was built by the Tracy family in 1894 was sold out of the family in 2009. The current owners took over in 2015 and are delightful. Besides gas, groceries, free WiFi, fresh baked goods and deli items, you can also get a shower for $4. City of Rocks NP is very popular with rock climbers and a hot shower is appreciated.
Tracy General Store - Almo, ID
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Today the visitor center was open for the preserve. Once we had our passport stamps we drove through City of Rocks NP on the dirt road which is suitable for all vehicles, unless there has been recent, heavy rains. The uniqueness of this site is hard to capture with a camera. Once on the westside, the road drops down and heads north into Oakley. The spring green was beautiful as we dropped down and followed a stream into town.
City of Rock National Preserve
Visitor Center, Almo, ID
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City of Rocks
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By lunchtime we had arrived in Hagermann, ID and visited the visitor center for both Hagermann Fossil Beds NM and Minidoka NHS. The actual locations for both of these sites are out of town. On previous trips we have visited the fossil beds and the interment cam. There is a display of both the fossils and items related to the internment camp in the visitor center. The ranger on duty did tell us they had found an original barracks and coal-burning stoves used in the internment camp at a local ranch. They have been moved back to the camp and are being restored.
On our westward journey we detoured down to Deer Flats NWR, SW of Boise. They have some great displays and had a spotting scope on an Osprey nest, no activity noted. By 5:30 we had found camping just to the west of Vale, OR at a Bureau of Reclamation Reservoir, Bully Creek Reservoir Campground. For $15 each site had an electric hook-up. At 2,500 ft it was very comfortable and enjoyable to sit out and enjoy bird-watching. The only drawback was the water was not suitable for drinking, tested high in arsenic. For showers, dishwashing it was fine. Luckily we always (try to) keep our 3 gallon water container and 3-2 liter bottles full, plus several drinking containers up front. As I walked around the campground I spotted a family of owls; 2 adults and 2 owlets in the trees at the edge of the reservoir.
Great-horned Owl & owlets
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Killdeer
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Wildlife Sightings
Yellow-bellied Marmot
Black-tailed Prairie Dog
Mule Deer
Belding's Grounding Squirrel
Brewer's Blackbird
Black-billed Magpie
Yellow Warbler
House Finch
Cassin's Finch
Mourning Dove
Lark Sparrow
White Pelican
Red-tailed Hawk
American Robin
Bullock's Oriole
Western Kingbird
Yellow-headed Blackbirs
House Sparrow
Red-winged Blackbird
California Quail
Common Nighthawk
Double-crested Cormorant
Killdeer
Osprey
Great-horned Owl
Western Grebe
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S Oregon - Heading in Memorial Day Wknd - Day 16
Friday, May 27, 2016
Start: Vale, OR
Finish: Collier Memorial SP, Chiloquin, OR
Overall a good night, the wind picked up in the morning. We enjoyed breakfast in camp and a shower before heading west on US 20. We had planned to drop down at Burns and visit Malhuer NWR, yes the one on the news this winter, but all visitor facilities are closed until late summer. We'll come back and visit that plus the Hart Antelope Refuge, both deserve a few days to explore.
This was the Friday of Memorial Day weekend and we had no reservations camping. We were heading towards Lava Beds NM, in N CA. When we got to Burns I called the park site and they expected the campground to fill early. We went south on US 395 and then went cross-country to US 97 based on a Google Maps routing, which worked very well. Along the way we stopped at the Klamath Marsh NWR. This is a high mountain marsh, reminded us of the terrain the previous week in ID at Gray's Lake NWR.
Klamath Marsh NWR
Lava Bomb
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Info Board
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Once on US 97 we stopped at the first campground, Collier Memorial SP and scored the last RV site! A freeze warning was predicted so we wanted the electric hook-up. It was mid-afternoon and we were a short distance from Crater Lake NP, so we drove up to the visitor center and got the passport stamp. The snow was still covering the road shoulders and none of the campgrounds were open.
Crater Lake NP
Visitor Center
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Annie's Falls
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Annie's Canyon
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Once back at camp I explored along Spring Creek and the Williamson River, which flowed right behind our campsite. While walking along I watched a small bird harassing a large white bird, a Great Egret, which perched on top of a pine tree.
Great Egret perched
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Wildlife Sightings
Belding's Ground Squirrel
Pronghorn
Great Blue Heron
Bullock's Oriole
Yellow Warbler
Western Grebe
California Gull
Killdeer
House Sparrow
American Robin
Mourning Dove
Barn Swallow
California Quail
Common Raven
Canada Goose
Red-winged Blackbird
Brewer's Blackbird
Snowy Egret
Turkey Vulture
Northern Harrier
Dark-eyed Junco
Great Egret
Steller's Jay
American Bald Eagle
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Into CA, Lava Beds NM & Tule Lake NWR - Day 17
Saturday, May 28, 2016
Start: Chiloquin, OR
Finish: Indian Well Campground (NPS), Lava Beds NM, Tule Lake, CA
The low was 31degrees, but by the time we got up and moving it was 39 degrees. Not far from the campground was Melita's Cafe which was great for breakfast, and very busy. North of Klamath Falls we took the US 97 bypass and the cut over to the back road into Tule Lake NWR and Lava Beds NM. Along the way we stopped at the Tule Lake Interment camp which was used for American-Japanese and Italian and German POWs during WWII, it is part of the WWII Valor in the Pacific NM. It also has sites in Hawaii.
Tule Lake Camp
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We arrived at Lava Beds NM by 11 AM and went right to the campground and got a great site. Back at the visitor center I picked up the Junior Ranger booklet and for the passport stamps.
Western Fence Lizard in campsite
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After having lunch in the campground we drove out to Petroglyph Point. The petroglyphs here are unusual - truly pecked into the soft rock cliff.
Petroglyph Point
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On our way back we spent quite a bit of time birding in Tule Lake NWR which shares borders with the NPS land.
Western Grebe
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Yellow-headed Blackbird
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White Pelican
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We stopped at a couple of pullouts and did some short hikes. The weather was perfect today - mid 70s, clear, dry and no wind! The campground was full by late afternoon.
Wildlife Sightings
Squirrel
Western Fence Lizard
Yellow-bellied Marmot
Belding's Ground Squirrel
Black-tailed Jackrabbit
Red-tailed Hawk
Black-billed Magpie
Brewer's Blackbird
California Gull
Foster's Tern
Snowy Egret
Canada Goose
Double-crested Cormorant
White Pelican
Western Meadowlark
Cliff Swallow
Ruddy Duck
Cinnamon Teal
American Coot
Great Egret
Mallard
Yellow-headed Blackbird
Tri-colored Blackbird
Western Kingbird
Turkey Vulture
Scrub Jay
Common Raven
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Criss-cross CA to Lassen Volcanic NP - Day 18
Sunday, May 29, 2016
Start: Lava Beds NM, CA
Finish: Battle Creek campground (USFS), Mineral, CA
Very comfortable morning in camp, so nice to have good camping weather and a couple of Black-tailed Jackrabbits exploring near the campsite. Before leaving Lava Beds NM I completed the Junior Ranger program and received the badge. This park site features rugged lava beds and numerous caves to explore. At the visitor center you must check in before entering the caves; first to be screened for WNS - White Nose Syndrome which is harmful to the bats in the caves and to learn which of the numerous caves are suitable for your exploration level. The best part of going in the caves, especially when it gets hot, is the coolness, as many have year-round permanent ice down in the caves.
Lava Beds NM
Devil's Homestead Flow
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Butterfly on Buckwheat
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Collapsed Cave
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This was a crazy day on the road - on the hunt for NPS Centennial stamps. We left Lava Beds NM, taking the road south out of the monument. Their brochure warns that this road may be unsuitable, especially for RVs, we found it to be paved, the surface a bit rough, but drivable and saved time and miles.
At CA 299 we headed west through Redding to Whiskeytown NRA, a large reservoir with some historical areas nearby. This is the first place we found Memorial Day crowds, all at the visitor center to buy their entrance pass. Along the way we stopped in Fall River Mills at the Fort Crook Museum. They had some good outdoor displays of large agricultural equipment and a round barn.
Fort Crook Museum
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Fall River Falls
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After getting our stamps at Whiskeytown we back-tracked to Redding and then crossed I-5 again to head towards the south entrance for Lassen Volcanic NP. The road through the park was still not open, due to the Winter's snowfall. We followed a convoluted back roads route to get there - CA 44 then a series of backroads to angle down to CA 36 to Mineral. Before heading into Lassen we stopped at a campground nearby and easily got a campsite. Over the years I have learned that getting a campsite on the 2nd night of a 3-day weekend is doable.
Yes, there was snow at the main visitor center at the south end of the park. By mid-June the road had been plowed and opened. Inside the visitor center was a very cool interactive sand-based table for kids (and adults) to experience water flow. There was a projector mounted above which colored the sand based on it being moved to create a water flow. Difficult to explain, better to see and experience.
Lassen Volcanic NP
Parking Lot
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Interactive Water Flow table
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Through the VC window
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Wildlife Sightings
Black-tailed Jackrabbit
Western Fence Lizard
Rock Squirrel
Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel
Scrub Jay
Common Raven
Double-crested Cormorant
Snowy Egret
Sandhill Crane
Turkey Vulture
Brewer's Blackbird
Mourning Dove
Western Bluebird
European Starling
Steller's Jay
Red-tailed Hawk
Mallard
American Robin
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Family Time - Day 19
Sunday, May 30, 2016
Start: Mineral, CA
Finish: Placerville, CA
We were in place to arrive at our son's this afternoon. We fixed breakfast in camp then made our way towards Red Bluff along CA 36. Just to the east of Red Bluff is a BLM trailhead called Hog Lake Plateau. Over ten years ago a group of letterboxers from around the U.S. conspired to plant a series of boxes to honor a letterboxer who inspired and mentored many new letterboxers, (including us) and still does. The 'hog' part of the name is important as it matches part of her trailname. We have boxed here for ten years, finding many and adding one box. Today we had a few more to find and another one to add to this unique 'theme park' - everything hog! By the time we finished it was heating up and we were ready for lunch in Red Bluff, which we enjoyed at a local Mexican restaurant in air conditioning!
Hog Lake flowers
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South on I-5, east on US 50 through Sacramento to Placerville. We met the newest member of our family - Coco, the grandbunny.
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Wildlife Sightings
Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel
Snowy Egret
Great-blue Heron
Common Raven
American Robin
American Crow
Turkey Vulture
White Pelican
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Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP - Day 20
Saturday, June 4, 2016
Start: Placerville, CA
Finish: Coalinga, CA
We took a 2 day break from family time and decided to hit a few more park sites while in the area. Our first destination was Sequoia-Kings Canyon National Parks, to the south of Placerville. As usual we headed out on CA 49, a historic route through Gold Country. In the mid-90s we drove the the entire length from south to north, spending about a week exploring the 330 mile route. It is a route I would highly recommend to anyone, especially if you have any interest in the history of gold mining; from placer to hard rock. It also includes lots of wine tasting, great eats and shops in the towns along the route.
Today we headed southwest off CA 49 to Ione, then CA 88 to Stockton to pick up CA 99 south. After stop for gas in Fresno we continued on CA 180, an easy drive up into Kings Canyon NP to Grants Grove.
Sequoia tree
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From there we went south on CA 198 into Sequoia NP. It was definitely getting busier in the park, a weekend after Memorial Day.
Back towards Morro Rock - Sierra granite
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We exited at the south end of the park, the drive out of Sequoia is curvy and steep, at times. This is not a route for a large RV or trailer, it is scenic and brings you into a nice, small tourist town of Three Rivers.
We had a delicious dinner in downtown Visalia at Brewbakers Brewing Company, our kind of place with the brew tanks onsite. Visalia has a charming downtown, with lots of restaurants and shops. It is off the main highway a couple of blocks, but worth the detour.
Brewbakers - Visalia
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We headed continued west on CA 198 crossing the central valley and ended on the west side of I-5 in Coalinga, in place for the next day.
Wildlife Viewing
Red-tailed Hawk
Turkey Vulture
Brewer's Blackbird
American Crow
Scrub Jay
Northern Mockingbird
Mourning Dove
Rock Pigeon
Killdeer
Canada Geese
Mule Deer
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Pinnacles NP, Rosie the Riveter NHP. & John Muir NHS - Day 21
Sunday, June 6, 2016
Start: Coalinga, CA
Finish: Placerville, CA
We continued west on CA 198 into Coalinga and then about 2/3 of the way to US 101 we turned north on CA 25 to Pinnacles NP. Along the way we first saw a roadrunner drinking from water trough, then a short way down the road we counted, at least, 6 more roadrunners. We could not remember ever seeing that many roadrunners so close together.
Pinnacles is in a valley which heats up during the summer. When it was Pinnacles NM the campground was outside the park boundary and managed by a private company, a pool was part of the campground. When the park was expanded in 2013 and became a National Park the campground and pool was added. Camping fees include use of the pool and nearby shower house. On a day like today the pool is appreciated, as well as the shade on the porch of the visitor center and store.
Pinnacles
Temperature Board
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Campground Pool
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Porch shade
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We headed north on CA 25, north to Hollister and continued to pick up US 101 near Gilroy. Our next stop was NW of Oakland in Richmond at Rosie the Riveter WW II Home Front National Historical Park. This was a return visit, always enjoy how they have used the Ford factory right along the San Francisco Bay front to interpret this part of American history. Within the factory parts have been restored and provided restaurants and shopping, along with the visitor center.
Rosie the Riverter WW II Home Front NHP
Ford Plant
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Rosie the Riveter WW II - Visitor Center
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Sailboat in SF Bay
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Not far from here is a very favorite park site, which I never tire of revisiting, John Muir National Historic Site. Today I walked through the property, past John Muir's home, back to the Martinez Adobe, built in 1849 and houses a permanent display of the Juan Bautista de Anza NHT.
John Muir NHS
Muir's House
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Martinez Adobe - 1849
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Juan Bautista de Anza Expedition Map
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From here we headed back to Placerville, for a couple more days to help out our family.
Wildlife Sightings
House Sparrow
Mourning Dove
Brewer's Blackbird
Western Kingbird
Yellow-billed Magpie
Cliff Swallow
Great-tailed Grackle
Greater Roadrunner - a flock of 6 (marathon/race)
Mountain Bluebird
White Pelican
Killdeer
Snowy Egret
Great Egret
Canada Geese
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Back on the road - N California, Day 22
Wednesday, June 8, 2016
Start: Placerville, CA
Finish: Doran Beach Campground(Sonoma Cty), Bodega Bay, CA
After a week off the road, except for our 2-day get away over the weekend, we left our family and Placerville to resume our travels. Always nice to spend time with family, but we enjoy our nomadic travel style.
Heading west to the coast - temperatures in the mid-60s for daytime highs, we've been in the mid-90s while in Placerville. Of course, Tucson finally broke the 100 degree mark late last week, not in mid-May which had been predicted when we left. It then quickly rose over the weekend to 109 degrees!
Our first stop was just north of the Golden Gate Bridge at the Marin Healdlands Visitor Center, part of Golden Gate NRA. This area is wild and beautiful and such a treat when you realize how close you are to San Francisco. On US 101 it is the last exit heading south before the Golden Gate Bridge, then west. The visitor center was the chapel for Fort Baker and has two of the largest Eucalyptus trees I have ever seen.
Marin Headlands - Golden Gate National Recreation Area
Visitor Center - Old Chapel
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Junior Rangers at work
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Marin Headlands view
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After we leaving there we wound our way down and along the waterfront into Sausalito to the post office for a cancellation on an envelope with the NPS passport stamps. From there we picked up US 1 north through Mill Valley to Muir Woods NM. As expected, parking was a challenge. I can't imagine what a weekend is like there, or the middle of the summer. There is a shuttle bus, at times, from Mill Valley which would be useful at the very busy times. This was planned to be a stamp and run as we have visited and explored on previous visits.
Muir Woods NM
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We ended back in Mill Valley at the post office for another cancellation and headed to Pt Reyes NS. We took a route which went between Rt 1 and 101, following Sir Francis Drake Blvd all the way to Olema and the main visitor center. We would have liked to spent some more time in and around Pt. Reyes, a favorite place to explore, but car camping is not readily available. The closest state park with car camping was full. The camping within Pt. Reyes NS is walk-in tent site, which we have done in the past. We ended up continuing up Rt. 1 to Bodega Bay and camping at a county campground out on a spit of land between the bay and the ocean. The weather was cool, with strong winds - great sleeping weather.
Bodega Bay marker
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Doran Beach campground at Bodega Bay
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Wildlife Sightings
Scrub Jays
Turkey Vulture
American Crow
Snowy Egret
Great Egret
White Pelican
California Gull
Barn Swallow
Canada Geese
Red-winged Blackbird
Wild Turkey
Red-breasted Sapsucker
California Towhee
Cormorant
European Starling
Western Gull
Red-tailed Hawk
Mule Deer
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Looonng way to Redwoods - Day 23
Thursday, June 9, 2016
Start: Bodega Bay, CA
Finish: Mill Creek Campground (ST/NPS), Redwoods National & State Park
California is a looonnng state! Today our goal was to get to Orick and the main visitor center for Redwoods National & State Parks. After breakfast in camp, with a steady breeze and overcast skies we headed inland to Sebastopol and then at Santa Clara to head north on US 101. This is a beautiful drive which travels through hillsides of vineyards to dense conifer forests of pine, fir, spruce and redwoods and ocean views. You know it is a long drive when the exit numbers are in the 500s, 600s and eventually 700s.
Before getting to Orick we made a stop at Humboldt Bay NWR, just south of Eureka. A short walk along the trail from the visitor center yielded several new birds for the list. In Eureka we stopped at Costco for gas and a few supplies. Gas at Costco was $.30 less per gallon than anywhere along US 101 in the area.
Humboldt Bay NWR
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Near Orick we stopped at the visitor center for Redwoods National & State Parks which actually sits along the ocean, no redwoods around. After getting the passport stamps and checking on campground status we continued north. Mill Creek campground had spaces available, north of Prairie Creek and south of Crescent City.
Near Orick, CA
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Near Prairie Creek we saw the herd of Roosevelt Elk. Further up the road we found a campsite at Mill Creek campground in Del Norte State Park. Even though it is a state park, because it is co-managed with NPS, our Golden Age Passport got us a campsite for $17, regular price is $35. No hookups, but showers and flush toilets. The evening was perfect. We got a nice campfire going with wood left in the fire ring. We could hear several distinct birds, including the Varied Thrush, but they were not seen in the dense foliage.
Wildlife Sightings
American Crow
Western Gull
Turkey Vulture
Mourning Dove
Western Gull
Brewer's Blackbird
Red-winged Blackbird
Mountain Bluebird
Wild Turkey
Snowy Egret
Common Raven
Varied Thrush - heard
Roosevelt Elk
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CA into OR - Day 24
Friday, June 10, 2016
Start: Mill Creek Campground, near Crescent City
Finish: Joseph H. Stewart State Recreation Site, near Prospect, OR
Just after getting to sleep a light rain started, then stopped, but the 'tree snot' or dripping from the dense foliage above, onto the roof of our van, continued off and on throughout the night. We woke up to clear skies and enjoyed breakfast in camp.
Mill Creek Campground - mega stumps!
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After a stop at the visitor center in Crescent City and some shopping we took off up US 199. First stop was the Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park and their visitor center for stamps. I did a hike along the river for a letterbox series then enjoyed a delicious lunch at the Historic Hiouchi Cafe - the food and portions were fantastic and worth a re-visit next time we are in the area.
Hiouchi Hike - tall enough to walk through at 5' 6"
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Iris along the trail
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The drive along US 199 into Oregon is one of the most beautiful drives in America - I put it in my Top 10. The Smith River that flows alongside is; pristine, clear, turquoise water with spectacular rock shoulders.
Smith River
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After entering Oregon we took the side road into Oregon Caves NM & Preserve, about 20 miles back into some of the wildest country we have traveled. At the caves is a historic lodge, The Chateau, which is a lodge. There is also a cafe and dining room.
Oregon Caves - The Chateau Cafe
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We continued into Grants Pass, then south on I-5 to Gold Hill where we struck out cross-country for OR 62. On a Friday evening we were able to get a nice electric site at Joseph H. Stewart State Recreation Site. An electric site with water was $22. The campground was almost full by 8 PM, but stayed quiet.
Wildlife Sightings
Varied Thrush - heard
Mourning Dove
California Towhee
Turkey Vulture
Western Gull
Common Raven
American Crow
Cliff Swallow
Egret
Steller's Jay
American Robin
Brewer's Blackbird
Western Bluebird
Osprey
Least Chipmunk
Fox Squirrel
White-tailed Deer
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John Day Fossil Beds NM - Day 25
Saturday June 11, 2016
Start: JH Stewart SRA, OR
Finish: Bull Prairie Campground, N of Spray on OR 207
Another driving day to cover territory and get back on our original route. We enjoyed breakfast and very nice showers before we left the campground. The route we took to Bend was not one of the 2 recommended by Google Maps, but was shorter and a much easier drive than the other recommended routes. Having traveled in Oregon extensively over the years I was able to route us on this path. We continued north on OR 62, then north on OR 230, skirting the west edge of Crater Lake before turning east on OR 138 to US 97 which leads into Bend.
Before Bend we stopped at Newberry National Volcanic Monument (USFS) for their stamp and a picnic lunch. Bend has grown so much over the years and along with it the traffic. In Redmond we stopped for gas and ice before heading east on US 126 and 26 to John Day Fossil Beds NM. The high desert opens up the vistas, compared to the dense forests of the Cascades, for an enjoyable drive. Along US 26, near milepost 88 is a shoe tree. Went by too quick to stop for a picture.
A quick stop on John Day Fossil Beds NM, Sheep Rock Unit got us stamps and a picture. Inside the visitor center is a live camera on a person actively working on a specimen (when staffed) with a large screen for viewing. The fossils on display are impressive.
John Day Fossils Beds NM
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We continued north on OR 19 to Kimberly, then east of Spray we headed north on OR 207 up into Umatilla NF to a campground 2-1/2 miles off the highway and along a quiet lake. Lots of free firewood provided a nice fire to take the chill off. The weather has been cooler than expected.
Prairie Bull Lake
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Campfire
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Wildlife Sightings
American Robin
Brewer's Blackbird
Turkey Vulture
Western Bluebird
Northern Flicker
Red-winged Blackbird
Hawk
White Pelican
American Kestrel
Black-billed Magpie
California Quail
Canada Geese
Mule Deer
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Into Washington and heading East - Day 26
Sunday, June 13, 2016
Start: Bull Prairie Campground, OR
Finish: Chief Timothy Campground (Army Corp of Engineers), W of Clarkston, WA
Woke up to a thin layer of ice in our water container, but the sun warmed up the air nicely. We enjoyed a morning fire from left-over evening embers. The bird-watching was better in the AM, enjoyed identifying the beautiful Evening Grosbeak. Eventually left camp by 10 AM, heading north on OR 207 to OR 74, then US 395 into Pendleton. It was a beautiful drive through remote forest and grasslands.
While in Pendleton we had lunch at a Wendy's, near I-84. I don't think they were prepared for the summer crowds, mainly out of state license plates in the parking lot. From there we continued north on OR 11 into Washington and Whitman Mission National Historic Site. This is a park site which is an example of historical importance, Western expansion. Up on the hill in the picture below is the gravesite of the Whitman family. The visitor center displays tell the story of the 1847 massacre of the Whitman family and provides extensive history of the native american culture of this region.
Whitman Mission NHS
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In Walla Walla we stopped for supplies then continued east on US 12 to the Snake River and Chief Timothy Park Campground. The campground app shows this as an Army Corp of Engineers campground, but the private management company does not honor Golden Age Passports for camping discounts. Tent sites are $28, $34 for electric and water. Even though the campground is on an island in the middle of the Snake River you can see and hear US 12. The bird watching was good, even got hummers at our feeder!
The columnar basalt across the river was impressive.
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Wildlife Sightings
Evening Grosbeak
American Robin
Mountain Chickadee - bird box in camp
Osprey
Tri-colored Blackbird
Black-billed Magpie
Western Meadowlark
California Quail
Hawks
Gray Flycatcher
White Pelican
Cassin's Finch
Black-chinned Hummingbird
House Finch
Turkey Vulture
Mourning Dove
Common Raven
American Crow
Common Nighthawk
Great-blue Heron
Barn Swallow
Gray Catbird
Mule Deer
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Idaho US 12 - Day 27
Monday, June 13, 2016
Start: Chief Timothy Park Campground, WA
Finish: Wilderness Gateway Campground (USFS), US 12 Lowell, ID
Before leaving the island we hiked along the backside to see more of the Snake River. Along the trail we found this scruffy Osprey nest on a pole.
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Before leaving Washington on US 12 we stopped in Clarkston for gas, Costco at $2.33/gal., laundry and a stop at the Hells Canyon NRA office, along the Snake River. The staff inside were very friendly.
Once heading east on US 12 past Lewiston, ID we visited the Nez Perce National Historical Park. In the visitor center were arrowheads dated at 8,000 to 6,000 years old. Seeing artifacts this old is a strong reminder of the Native American culture which was here long before Europeans arrived and came West. Below the visitor center is a very nice picnic ground and part of the original town of Spalding along the Clearwater River. The Nez Perce NHP includes 38 sites important to the history of the Nez Perce tribe in four states; ID, WA, MT and OR.
Not a lot of pictures today as it was an overcast, damp day with showers off and on as we traveled east. Our route across Idaho, at this part of the trip, was US 12 - 173 miles. We made it about half way across, initially following the Clearwater River. This route starts to pick up the Lewis and Clark Trail. Along the way we made a quick stop at Dworshak National Fish Hatchery, they were set to close very soon. There is a well-designed self-guided tour of this hatchery which raises steelhead & salmon. It is one of the largest hatcheries we have ever visited.
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Further along the route follows Lochsa River to a wonderful campground - very well developed Wilderness Gateway. There are 90 sites, able to accommodate up to 60 ft RV, and with flush toilets & sinks. Within the campground is a trailhead leading into the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness Area. There was also a short birding trail behind loops A & B. It was warm at 2100 ft, with clouds bringing in some more showers.
Lochsa River
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Boulder Creek - flowing through the campground into the Lochsa River
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Birding Trail
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Idaho State Flower - Syringa
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Wildlife Sightings
Gray Catbird
Gray Flycatcher
American Robin
Cedar Waxwing
Great blue Heron
White Pelican
Gull
Wilson's Warbler
Yellow Warbler
Common Raven
Turkey Vulture
Canada Geese
White-tailed Deer
Gopher Snake, Great Basin species
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Lolo Pass, into Montana - Day 28
Tuesday, June 14, 2016
Start: Wilderness Gateway campground
Finish: Spring Gulch Campground, Sula, MT
Steady rain through the night. Woke up in the middle of Idaho with no restaurants within an hour or more - hot coffee and tea needed! Frogg Toggs to the rescue - an inexpensive rain jacket & pants I had purchased for my hike to Phantom Ranch last winter, but never used. Very useful today to start up the Coleman stove for hot beverages and instant oatmeal - good to go! Packed up dishes and chairs & stayed dry!
A short distance behind us was the Lochsa Historical Ranger Station, built in the 1930s. There are a number of buildings on site which you can visit. It is staffed by retired rangers, today a couple who worked for the Forest Service in the summers were there to welcome us on this wet morning. The displays are interesting inside the main cabin. While there we learned that US 12 was not completed until 1961. That was a surprise to us, that a section of a cross-country US highway (not interstate) was so recent. Considering the rugged country it traverses it is a well-designed highway. It was not heavily used, during our trip, but handled large truck and RVs easily and through a very scenic area. It was also used by cross-country bicycle riders. We me a couple in the ranger station heading east, after a wet night and morning, still in good spirits.
Lochsa Ranger Station
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Cross- country Bicyclists - I'll stick to travel by car!
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Backing heading east on US 12 the road climbs from 2080 ft elevation up to Lolo Pass at 5,235 ft. in 50 miles, mostly a gentle grade following the Lochsa River. It climbs up to the pass more steeply in the last 5 miles. At the pass is a large parking area and a nice visitor center run by the US Forest Service, with a passport stamp for the Nez Perce NHP. Lolo Pass was used by the Nez Perce to cross the Bitterroot Mountains and by Lewis and Clark. Nearby a primitive dirt-road (high clearance vehicles), Lolo Motorway follows the route of Lewis and Clark in this area. It was cold, 45 degrees, and raining when we arrived. Hot coffee and tea was available,for a donation, which we enjoyed while looking at the displays. There is also WiFi available.
Lolo Pass
Visitor Center
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Displays
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History of Lolo Pass
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The drive into Montana continued to be very scenic and easy driving. We stopped in Lolo, MT for lunch before heading south on US 93. We drove through Lee Metcalf NWR, near Stevensville and enjoyed some birding along the way.
Lee Metcalf NWR - Stevensville, MT
Osprey
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In Hamilton, on US 93 South, we stopped at the Ravalli County Museum for more passport stamps; Nez Perce Nee-Me-Poo National Historic Trail and Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail - Bitterroot Valley, MT stamps. We ended the day a little further along at a small USFS campground along the highway, near Sula, MT. The rain had stopped, but it was still cool. We enjoyed the sound of the Bitterroot River next to our campsite.
Wildlife Sightings
Canada Geese
Black-billed Magpie
American Crow
Rufous Hummingbird
Western Tanager
American Kestrel
Red-winged Blackbird
Osprey
Northern Flicker
Mallard
Great blue Heron - Rookery
Killdeer
Cedar Waxwing
Wild Turkey
Turkey Vulture
Common Raven
Belted Kingfisher
American Robin
Hairy Woodpecker
Great-horned Owl
Columbian Ground Squirrel
White-tailed Deer
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Seeking Wisdom, MT - Day 29
Tuesday, June 15, 2016
Start: Sula, MT
Finish: Missoula, MT
Campground view
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Not as cold overnight as we feared, however we wanted to get going. We went up the road to enjoy a great breakfast at Sula Country Store. A little further down US 93 we turned east on MT 43, right at the MT-ID state line. We made a quick stop at another Continental Divide trailhead for a short walk at 7,251 ft.
Paintbrush
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The drive over to Wisdom is beautiful, saw a pair of Sandhill Cranes along the way. We made a stop at Big Hole National Battlefield, the site of a brutal attack on a Nez Perce camp in 1877. This site, visitor center and battlefield, honors the men, women and children killed during that incident. Lewis and Clark camped in this area, Big Hole and Wisdom, and named several of the rivers.
Wisdom is sometimes listed as the coldest spot in the nation, a couple of summer ago we came here to camp when it was reaching 100 degrees in Great Falls. Back on the road to Anaconda, then west on I-90 to Deer Lodge and a stop at Grant-Kohrs Ranch National Historic Ranch. This is a working ranch, established in the late 1800s, which preserves the history of cattlemen. Buildings are available to tour. While there a train came through, the teepee structures provided a contrast of eras.
Grant-Kohrs Ranch NHS
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Continued west on I-90 into Missoula. We visited the Montana Natural History Center for a passport stamp; Ice Age Floods National Geologic Trail. This trail interprets a massive floods, about 12,000 to 17,000 years ago, caused by the melting of ice which changed the landscape. The Trail has sites in WA, OR, ID & MT. Currently the museum is not charging an entrance fee, a small museum with displays of local animals and fossils with good information plus an art gallery. There were spectacular photographs on display when we were here.
More rain was predicted, plus we needed an oil change for the van, so we stayed at the Motel 6 in town. The mechanic discovered a bad tire on the front passenger side. We use Discount Tire for our tires, the closest one was in Kalispell, about 90 miles up the road and our next stop tomorrow. We decided to take a chance and head up there in the morning for the tire replacement (we made it).
Wildlife Sightings
Northern Harrier
Black-billed Magpie
American Robin
Swallows
Sandhill Crane
American Kestrel
Marbled Godwit
Swainson's Hawk
American Crow
Common Raven
Turkey Vulture
Red-winged Blackbird
Osprey
Bald Eagle
Mule Deer
Columbian Ground Squirrel
White-tailed Deer
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Tires & Hail - Day 30
Thursday, June 16, 2016
Start: Missoula, MT
Finish: Sundance RV Park, Coram, MT
The cars and pavement were wet when we woke up and there was a light rain falling. After a fast food breakfast we headed north on US 93 with one bad tire, inner edge of front passenger side worn down to metal mesh. Luckily it was cool and good road. On our way north we did take a detour to a new site for us, National Bison Range. It was a short detour off of US 93 and on paved roads to the visitor center. We did not do the tour loop as it was a dirt road and didn't want to stress the tire, or ourselves. The history at this site, managed by the US Fish and Wildlife Service, the same organization that manages the National Wildlife Refuges, is interesting. This site was established in 1908! We did see a few bison on our way in and out of the range - we will be back! This was another site for the Ice Age Floods NGT passport stamp, plus a special stamp celebrating 100 years, 1908 - 2008.
National Bison Range
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Bison bi-products
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Ancient Bison Horns
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Bison Horn display
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We continued up US 93, then took MT 35 along the east edge of Flathead Lake. This was a shorter route to the north edge of Kalispell and definitely more scenic. We had an appointment at Discount Tire and they had us in and out very quickly. They also gave us a reference for a place to get an alignment, which we scheduled for the next morning.
The shopping center had a Cabella's which typically has a smashed penny machine so we walked over there and got a set. We had a tasty lunch, and fresh beer, at MacKenzie River Pizza, Grill & Pub. This is a local chain restaurant, their interior decoration was was very attractive.
So with our tire issue under control we headed east on US 2 towards Glacier National Park. The weather was turning cold and staying wet so we decided to find a private RV park with an electric hookup. Using Allstay Camp & RV I located a small park charging a reasonable rate. As we pulled in to register the skies opened - not just rain, but hail. After paying we continued into West Glacier and stopped at several sites to get the park's passport and for me to pick up the Junior Ranger booklet. An option for one of the activities was to interview a park ranger, a favorite activity of mine. At the end of the interview I asked her where was her favorite place in the park, she hesitated. With a gentle nudge I was able to have her tell me that the Two Medicine area of the park was her favorite - I told her that was our favorite area, as well. We had spent several days there a few years ago and were heading there tomorrow night (Donna57 - looks like you enjoyed it as well).
We stopped in the village of West Glacier and enjoyed some pie and ice cream before heading back to camp. As we pulled in to park and set up an even stronger hail storm pounded us. I was able to get out, plug in and get the heater running. There was a short break in the rain which allowed us to get out and walk around before settling in for the night.
Wildlife Sightings
Brewer's Blackbird
American Robin
Red-winged Blackbird
Black-billed Magpie
Marbled Godwit
Gull
Hawk
Northern Shoveler
Cinnamon Teal
Osprey
Dark-headed Junco
Bison
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US 2 & Two Medicine at Glacier NP - Day 31
Friday, June 17, 2016
Start: Coram, MT
End: Two Medicine Campground (NPS), Glacier National Park
More rain overnight, cold in AM. Glad to have hookups and heater in AM. Back into Kalispell for front-end alignment. We were told our alignment looked fine, he did make an adjustment based on what we told him about the damaged tire. Picked up a few supplies then headed east along US 2.
Late yesterday evening Going to the Sun road, which traverses Glacier National Park, opened for the season. We have driven it several times over the years, but have decided not to do it again. Last time when we were here, July 2012, we took the shuttle all the way across and back. This was much more enjoyable, for all, the driver and passenger. We do enjoy taking US 2 along the southern edge of the park to get to the east side. A stop at Goat Lick, a small section of Glacier NP that US 2 crosses, we did not see any Mountain Goats. Glad we got to see them earlier in the trip near Grand Teton NP. This made for a good picnic stop.
Goat Lick - Glacier NP
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The rest area at Summit, along the Continental Divide is a great stop. The obelisk id dedicated to Theodore Roosevelt for his "leadership in the conservation of national forests". There is also a geological interpretive sign for the Lewis Thrust Fault which is seen in the mountains across the road.
Continental Divide
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Lewis Thrust Fault
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Our 'happy place' at Glacier National Park is Two Medicine. This is one of the least developed areas of the park with a campground, picnic area, general store and boat dock. A commercial boat tour is available, leaving several times throughout the day, as well as small boat rentals. When we arrived we checked in at the Ranger Station to see how cold it was expected to get tonight - 40 degrees. While there I turned in my completed Junior Ranger booklet and received my badge. In reviewing my booklet the ranger shared that a trail in this area was recently closed due to Grizzly Bear activity. The day before a ranger was patrolling the trail and went off trail to pick up some discarded orange peels, as she approached the trash a bear appeared and was aggressive. In grizzly country any food can attract bears and cause negative human-wildlife interaction. Closing the trail for a few days, after cleaning up the area, is a good choice. We enjoyed an afternoon of bird watching and decent temperatures. We had a great campsite with a nice view. After setting up camp I walked around the edge of the lake.
Evidence of Beaver
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Common Merganser - we later learned she had been seen with chicks riding on her back.
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Columbian Ground Squirrel
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Sego Lily
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I attended the evening ranger program, the ranger was surprised that the attendance was lower than the evening before when it was rainy and cold. Then she said it was probably because the Going to the Sun Road had opened and had cleared out the campground. By evening the campground was about half full, just right for us.
Wildlife Sightings
American Robin
American Crow
Turkey Vulture
Killdeer
Common Merganser
Yellow-rumped Warbler
Golden-crowned Kinglet
Great-blue Heron
Ruby-crowned Kinglet
Ring-billed Gull
Osprey
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Seeking Wisdom is a worthy enterprise
I liked that "Seeking Wisdom"
Mark
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Central Montana - Day 32
Saturday, June 18, 2016
Start: Two Medicine, Glacier National Park
Finish: James Kipp Recreation Area (BLM), along US 191 at the Missouri River.
Beautiful morning in camp. I got up earlier than usual and walked around the lake for some early morning pictures. Just as we were ready to leave a bighorn sheep crossed the lake outlet, near camp, heading towards the campground. People walking by scared it back across the water.
Two Medicine Lake
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Flowers - Clematis
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Wild geranium
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We would have liked to stay another day, but the weather forecast was 80% chance of showers and thunderstorms beginning at noon and into the evening. So we headed east to Great Falls for the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center, managed by the USFS. There is an entrance fee which is covered with any of the federal passes. The displays are excellent and well worth exploring as we have done several times over the years (see Donna57's write up). Just upstream is what is left of the Great Falls, not the same as when Lewis and Clark's expedition traveled through here in 1805. One island appeared to be a rookery for gulls.
Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center - Great Falls, MT
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Lewis & Clark's route
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Great Falls
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We had two more sites in northern Montana to get passport stamps for my husband's postal cancellation collection; Upper Missouri River Breaks NM (BLM) in Fort Benton and Nez Perce NHP, Bear Paw Battlefield, at the Blaine County Historical Museum in Chinook, MT. The battlefield is south of town and has no developed services, just interpretive signs and picnic area. This is one of 38 sites that represent the Nez Perce NHP, as well as the Nez Perce NHT. As mentioned before it documents the history of these Native Americans and their struggle at the hands of the US Government, another injustice not to immigrants, but this time to the indigenous peoples of our country.
Upper Missouri River Breaks NM - Fort Benton, MT
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Throughout the day we had been watching the weather as it kept coming up behind us, getting darker and darker. The Severe Weather warning included a tornado watch. Our plan was to go a little further east on US 2, then head south to camp along the Missouri River within the Charles M Russell NWR. As we headed east we passed 3 storm tracker radar trucks and other vehicles sitting in a truck stop. Our thought was as long as they weren't on the move and/or passing us we should be OK. As we headed south along MT 66 we passed a number of cars pulled off the road watching the weather to the west with cameras ready. Luckily within a short distance I could see we were south of the serious weather.
By the time we reached our campground along the Missouri River all we saw were some light rain showers headed our way, which ended up going north of us. The wind was picking up which cooled off the hot, muggy air. This campground is managed by the BLM as part of the Upper Missouri River Breaks NM and Upper Missouri National Wild and Scenic River. It is also along the Nez Perce Auto Tour route and a campsite of Lewis and Clark in 1805. For a very remote campground it certainly had a lot of historic and natural value.
Lewis and Clark campsite info
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Wildlife Sightings
American Robin
Ruby-crowned Kinglet
Yellow-rumped Warbler
Black-billed Magpie
Mallard
Common Merganser
American Crow
Common Raven
Brewer's Blackbird
Western Meadowlark
Gull
Swallows
Canada Geese
White Pelican
Great Blue Heron
Yellow-headed Blackbird
Red-winged Blackbird
American Coot
Red-tailed Hawk
Bighorn Sheep
Coyote
Cottontail Rabbit
White-tailed Deer
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Pompey's Pillar to Bighorn Canyon NRA - Day 33
Sunday, June 19, 2016
Start: James Kipp Recreation Area (BLM), along US 191 at the Missouri River
Finish: Grapevine Creek campground (NPS), Bighorn Canyon NRA, Ft. Smith, MT
The wind died down at sunset, 10 PM and stayed quiet until sunrise,around 5:30 AM. Using the van to block the wind I was able to heat water for coffee & tea. This was important as it was over an hour of driving before we say a place that might have had coffee/tea.
Our first stop of the day was at Pompeys Pillar NM (BLM), east of Billings. Our last visit to this site was ten years ago, and about 2 weeks before they opened the visitor center for this site dedicated to the Lewis & Clark expedition. While there we met another couple from Sierra Vista, AZ who were traveling cross-country and visiting National Park sites. We spent time chatting about our travels. My husband discovered that the counter at the visitor center was an active post office! Even though it was Sunday the volunteer offered to cancel an envelope, with tomorrow's date, with the site's cancellation - a special treat for an avid collector.
Postal cancellation in action
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Pompeys Pillar NM
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Replica of Clark's signature on Pompeys Pillar
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The pictures below may be difficult to see in full, but they graphically show the impact of the Lewis and Clark's expedition on Westward Expansion. The first photo represents what the West looked like, on a map, prior to their trip. The large map represents what they mapped during their expedition. What they saw, recorded and experienced on this epic trip still intrigues me, especially considering the tools they used.
Map of area prior to expedition
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Map after the expedition
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Back into Billings for lunch, smashed pennies, and gas at Costco before heading south, actually east on I-90. We made a quick stop at Little Bighorn Battlefield NM. This was Father's Day and we ran into a line at the entrance booth and a full parking lot, the busiest we have ever seen this site.
From here we headed cross-country to Bighorn Canyon NRA, the Montana unit at Fort Smith. We had camped here last Fall and enjoyed the area, but thought the campground was not arranged well. The spaces could be crowded if it was busy. On this visit we spotted a campground across the bay, to the north and learned at the visitor center it was an NPS campground. We crossed the bay/river on a small dam, downstream from the large dam which forms Bighorn Reservoir in Wyoming and Montana. The campground only had a couple of sites occupied, we set up camp near the water's edge and thoroughly enjoyed an evening of birdwatching and relaxing.
Yellowtail Dam - Bighorn Canyon NRA
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View looking south at Afterbay - Bighorn River
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Cedar Waxwing
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Wildlife Sightings
Brewer's Blackbird
White Pelican
Canada Geese
Mallard
Common Raven
Western Meadowlark
Red-winged Blackbird
Cedar Waxwing
Western Kingbird
Eastern Kingbird
Yellow Warbler
Belted Kingfisher
American Goldfinch
Killdeer
Cliff Swallow
Tree Swallow
Gray Catbird
Great Blue Heron
Pheasant
Say's Phoebe
Bullock's Oriole
Ash-throated Flycatcher
Rock Pigeon
Mourning Dove
American Robin
White-tailed Deer
Black-tailed Prairie Dog
Cottontail Rabbit
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We tried to fuel up at the Billings Costco - it's one of the few (now) that have diesel. Unfortunately, the lines were horrible, particularly for that diesel, as there were semi's looking to fuel there! It made us rethink our desires for Costco to put in diesel pumps across the US.
Instead, we fueled up in Park City, MT.
Donna
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
DonnaR57
We tried to fuel up at the Billings Costco - it's one of the few (now) that have diesel. Unfortunately, the lines were horrible, particularly for that diesel, as there were semi's looking to fuel there! It made us rethink our desires for Costco to put in diesel pumps across the US.
Instead, we fueled up in Park City, MT.
Donna
Donna,
I can only imagine the line for diesel, especially in MT with all of the pick up trucks! Many times we find the lines at Costco daunting, but the price difference keeps us in line - for Regular.
Pat
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Seeking Cool - Through Wyoming into Colorado -Day 34 & 35
Monday, June 20, 2016
Start: Grapevine Creek Campground (NPS), Bighorn Canyon NRA, Ft. Smith, MT
Finish: Laramie, WY
Started the day with more bird watching in camp. Before leaving the area I completed the Junior Ranger booklet and received the enhanced badge, a nice image of a bighorn sheep. This was a driving day to get south and in place for cooler weather. Back to I-90 to I-25 to Casper, then a series of backcountry roads to Laramie. The highlight of the day were all of the Pronghorns with fawns.
Wyoming has some areas that do not have a lot of public campgrounds. In order to get into Colorado the next day we decided to motel it in Laramie. It was in the 90s, the last 'hot' day in this spell. We enjoyed a quiet evening in the room.
Tuesday, June 21, 2016 - First Day of Summer
Start: Laramie, WY
Finish: Green Ridge Campground (USFS), Grand Lake, CO
Before leaving town we had a delicious breakfast at 17th Street Cafe, near the University of Wyoming. As we headed south we continued to see Pronghorns.
Pronghorn doe and fawns - having twins is very common
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Our plan was to camp along the Laramie River, just into Colorado at Tunnel Campground. We have camped there several times and have always seen moose and had a cloud of hummingbirds at the feeder. Luckily, I checked the National Forest website and found it would not open for a few more days, not until 6/25.
So, south into Colorado on WY 230 into Medicine Bow NF to Walden, CO. Along the way we finally got see our moose for this trip. We tried to get a photo, but she was shy. Just south of Walden we stopped at the Arapahoe NWR. We walked a short walk along the Moose-Goose Nature Trail along the Illinois River.
Arapahoe NWR Mural
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Nesting duck
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Snow-capped Peaks
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Further south, then East on US 40 to Grand Lake, CO. This route brought us to the west side of Rocky Mountain NP. After setting up camp, in a nice shaded site, along Shadow Mountain Lake we went to the visitor center for Rocky Mountain NP for the Centennial stamp. Back into town, we continued our tradition of getting ice cream on the day we spotted our first moose. The campsite temperature of lower 70s was delightful into the evening.
Wildlife Sightings
Red-winged Blackbird
Brewer's Blackbird
Gray Catbird
Cedar Waxwing
Cliff Swallow
Tree Swallow
Gull
Say's Phoebe
Mourning Dove
Western Meadowlark
Canada Geese
Common Raven
Black-billed Magpie
American Robin
White Pelican
American Crow
American Coot
Cinnamon Teal
Grebe
Canada Goose
American Kestrel
Black-billed Magpie
Golden Eagle
Yellow Warbler
Yellow-bellied Sapsucker
Hairy Woodpecker
Northern Flicker
Osprey
Broad-tailed Hummingbird
Mountain Bluebird
Pronghorn
White-tailed Prairie Dog
Moose
Wyoming Ground Squirrel
Cottontail Rabbit
Least Chipmunk
Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel
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Criss-crossing Colorado - Day 36
Wednesday, June 22, 2016
Start: Grand Lake, CO
Finish: Elk Creek Campground (NPS), Curecanti NRA
The drive west from Grand Lake on US 40 follows the headwaters of the Colorado River, beautiful country. In Kemmling we went south on CO 9 and ran into our first, of several, road construction stops. Colorado has a short season for road work. Several of the stops were quite long, this one on CO 9 had a sign warning of 45 minute delays. We were held up about 20 minutes.
At Silverthorne we reached I-70 and went west a short distance before we continued south on CO 9 through Frisco. Just north of Breckenridge, which is now an upscale ski resort we noticed large deposits of placer tailings, leftover from gold mining days. The piles of rock rubble are a result of dredging the Blue River and nearby streams for gold from 1898 to 1942.
Just after crossing Hoosier Pass at 11,542 ft we saw a sign indicating we were entering the South Park National Heritage Area, an area with a rich cultural history including; Native American, Spanish, Mountain Men and Mining history. We stopped in Fairplay for the passport stamp for this area at the Pike NF office, then explored the old part of town. South of town there were significant placer tailings, like what we saw back in Breckenridge.
Fairplay, CO
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Historic South Park City
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A lit bit further south we turned east on US 24 to visit Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument. We had not been there since they opened their new visitor center, the displays were very well done. The weather was closing in, dark clouds with a threat of a thunderstorm. They were anticipating closing the trails soon, so we just took our time inside.
Florissant Fossil Beds NM
Visitor Center
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Fossil Pine Cone
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Fossil Hickory Nut
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With a storm surrounding us we headed back west on US 24, through a couple more road construction stops to US 285 and the Arkansas River area. This was the first area in Colorado where we saw large crowds of summer tourists, mainly rafters. We stopped in Poncha Springs at Grimo's Italian Restaurant for a delicious meal. We had eaten here many years ago and was pleased to see it was still in business and just as good as our memory remembered.
Our final leg today was on US 50 over Monarch Pass, at 11,312 ft, through Gunnison to camp at Curecanti National Recreation Area. While enjoying what was left of the evening we listened to a long-winded bird near our campsite, thinking it was a robin. We overheard a birder, walking by, mention they thought it might be a Sage Thrasher. With their help we discovered it was a Sage Thrasher and learned they were known for singing all night long - hmmm....
Wildlife Sightings
Mountain Bluebird
American Robin
Canada Goose
Yellow Warbler
Osprey
Brewer's Blackbird
Black-billed Magpie
Northern Flicker
Gull
Sage Thrasher
Great Blue Heron
Elk
Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel
Fox Squirrel
Wyoming Ground Squirrel
Mule Deer with fawns
Bison
Pronghorn