Western National Parks & More - Fall 2015
I just got back from a 36 day trip through the west, visiting over 20 National Park sites and
National Historic Trails, plus a variety of other activities. We traveled through Arizona, Utah,
Wyoming, Montana, North Dakota, South Dakota and Colorado. In the past I have posted Field
Trip Reports in real-time. For this trip I decided to wait until I returned, as I knew many places
we camped would have none, or limited, cell phone and internet connection. I'll be posting daily,
with a few gaps.
Some of our usual activities I will preview here so you can have some background information.
Passport Stamps - as we travel through NPS sites we collected a small, round, dated stamp that
is issued to the sites by Eastern National. A club we belong to, National Park Travelers Club,
maintains a database with the location of the stamps. My husband, is a self-described fanatic,
as well others in the club who want to collect all of the stamps possible. Some of the sites have
bonus stamps which can be very attractive.
Letterboxing - a fun, treasuring hunting hobby which started in England in the late 1800s. Today
2 websites provide access to clues; Atlas Quest and LBNA. It is similar to
geocaching, but involves exchanging hand-carved stamps between your personal stamp and
the stamp you find in the box.
Junior/Senior Ranger programs - I complete these programs as I travel.I have a blog titled,
'Junior Ranger-Senior Friendly'
Quest Scouts - recently I have been participating in a new online adult-oriented scout-style
program. It has been a lot of fun, and works well while traveling or staying at home.
Instagram - As part of recording my Quest Scout activities and posting pictures, as part of the
NPS Centennial celebration, to Find Your Park I have an account - SrJrRanger
As in the past I'll include pictures along the way and list some of the wildlife we see during the
day. As the trip progress feel free to comment or question, either in the forum or by private
message. I hope some of the information will entertain and also inform you for your own travels.
So here goes. . .
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Sunset Crater & Wupatki NM loop
Tuesday, August 25
99th Anniversary of National Park Service
Start & End: Bonito Campground
San Francisco Peaks
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When staying at this campground I usually start my morning with a walk to the entrance of the
campground for a view of the San Francisco Peaks - always beautiful.
After a leisurely morning in camp we spent today exploring Sunset Crater Volcano National
Monument and Wupatki National Monument, the road to both begins right at the campground.
Today was the 99th birthday of the National Park Service. As part of their year-long celebration
leading up to the Centennial, next August, they have launched the #FindYourPark campaign. I
have been posting to Instagram as Srjrranger for this celebration, and other activities. The road between the 2 sites can be driven as a loop, starting off either end of US 89, north of Flagstaff or south of Cameron. It is a great side trip on your way to or from the Grand Canyon. Today, we returned along the road, as we were spending another night at Bonito.
While traveling the road between the two sites we found several letterboxes, including a couple of
webboxes within the monuments. Letterboxes are not allowed within park sites, so my husband has created "boxes" that use interpretive signs, instead of planting traditional letterboxes. Once at home a coded URL gives you a picture from the location as your "stamp". It was
a relaxing day, enjoying cool weather!
Sunset Crater lava
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Wupatki Ruins & passport stamping
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We came back to camp and continued to enjoy the Hummer Wars at the feeder. Seemed to be
3 Broad-tailed females who were actively guarding the feeder. We had a vocal Abert's Squirrel
that was upset with us, it appears when we returned we had put our chairs next to a tree it was
up in, and couldn't figure out how to get down. After quite awhile and a lot of chewing out, it finally figured out an exit. By
early evening a steady, light rain settled in and continued for most of the night.
Abert's Squirrel
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Passport Stamps
Sunset Crater Volcano NM- Flagstaff, AZ
Wupaki NM - Flagstaff, AZ
Wildlife Sightings
Abert's Squirrel
Rock Squirrel
Spiny Lizard
Common Raven
Mountain Chickadee
Hairy Woodpecker
Broad-tailed Hummingbird
Mountain Bluebird
White-breasted Nuthatch
Steller's Jay
Western Bluebird
Greater Roadrunner
North to Grand Canyon National Park
Wednesday, August 26
Start: Bonito Campground, N of Flagstaff
End: Mather Campground (NPS), Grand Canyon National Park
Another beautiful morning in camp and picture of San Francisco Peaks.
San Francisco Peaks
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And another squirrel picture, showing the rust-colored back of Abert's Squirrels
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After enjoying coffee and tea in camp we headed into Flagstaff for breakfast and gas before
heading north to Grand Canyon National Park. We had planned to hike at Red Mountain, along
US 180, about 30 miles north of Flagstaff. When we arrived it was raining and the clouds were
ominous, so we continued on our way. Thunderstorms were predicted for today in Flagstaff and
at the Grand Canyon. We stopped in Valle and Tusysan for letterboxes and smashed pennies.
Once at the canyon we had lunch at our reserved campsite. Yes, even in late August and middle
of the week, the sign 'Campground Full' greeted us. All schools in Arizona and most of the west
now start in early August, some even in late July. This allows for a Fall Break in early October, a
much better time of year to enjoy Western travel.
After lunch we rook the shuttle bus to the main visitor center, Yavavpai Point and into the main
village area. While at Yavapai Point I attended a Ranger Program titled 'Geology Glimpses',
beautiful setting along the rim. I picked up the South Rim Junior Ranger booklet, which I
was able to complete by the end of the next day. I have now completed the North and South Rim
and the Phantom Ranch Junior Ranger programs. I tried to pick up the booklet for Indian Gardens,
but they were out of them. I'll be hiking through there at the end of November on my way to Phantom
Ranch for another 3 night stay.
Yavapai Point Ranger Program
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Across the Canyon, down to Phantom Ranch & Bright Angel Creek
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We strolled along the rim between Verkamp's Visitor Center and Kolb Studio before heading into
Maswik Lodge to enjoy an early dinner at the Pizza Pub. Back to camp for a quiet evening, even
with a full campground.
Rainbow- ending the day
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Passport Stamps
Albright Training Center - Grand Canyon, AZ
Grand Canyon National Park
- Visitor Center Plaza
- Yavapai Geology Museum
- Verkamp's Visitor Center
- Kolb Studio
Bonus Stamps
Albright Training Center
NPS Arrowhead
Canyon View Information Plaza - Grand Canyon
Yavapai Observation Station - Grand Canyon
Verkamp's Visitor Center - Grand Canyon
Historic Kolb Studio - Grand Canyon South Rim
Wildlife Sightings
Abert's Squirrel
Rock Squirrel
Tarantula Hawk (insect)
Broad-tailed Hummingbird
Steller's Jay
Common Raven
Northern Flicker
Turkey Vulture
Western Scrub Jay
White-breasted Nuthatch
Mountain Chickadee
Grand Canyon National Park
Thursday, August 27, 2015
Start & End: Mather Campground, Grand Canyon National Park
Spending a full day in Grand Canyon, South Rim. Took the Village Shuttle bus to the transfer
point for the Hermit's Rest shuttle. By 10 AM the crowds were gathering, we had to wait for
another bus after one bus arrived and filled. It was worth the wait to be able to get a seat, our
plan was to ride all the way to the end at Hermit's Rest. This unique building was built by Mary
Jane Elizabeth Colter, architect for the Santa Fe Railroad in the early 1900s. Her southwest
inspired buildings are throughout the area. They have a unique stamp in the bookstore,
Airmailed by Raven from Hermit's Rest.
Hermit's Rest
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Once back in the village we indulged in ice cream at the Bright Angel Lodge. Back to the visitor
center for me to receive my Junior Ranger - South Rim badge. For $2 I purchased the appropriate patch, Scorpion - ages 11 and up. We enjoyed a late lunch at camp, then showers near the entrance to the campground, $2 for 8 minutes, and plenty of hot water. During this
afternoon period Elk were lounging throughout the campground.
Elk - Mather Campground
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After relaxing at camp we checked out the new Tavern at Yavapai Lodge. A better selection of
beers, wine and full bar, plus a good pub menu. We enjoyed a pint of Lumberyard IPA (Flagstaff)
and a very large order of Nachos with plenty of meat and other fixings!
Tavern at Yavavpai -Nachos
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After stuffing ourselves on Nachos we walked along the rim as the evening light settled into the
canyon. We also explored the Pioneer Cemetery near Park Headquarters. This stroll is highly
recommended; the information on the headstones is varied and interesting.
Grand Canyon
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Wildlife Sightings
Rock Squirrel
Chipmunk
Mule Deer
Elk
Western Bluebird
Mountain Chickadee
White-breasted Nuthatch
Northern Flicker
Common Raven
Turkey Vulture
Steller's Jay
Pinon Jay
Yellow-rumped Warbler
Dark-eyed Junco
Western Scrub Jay
UT 12 & Kodachrome Basin State Park
Saturday, August 29
Start: Duck Creek Campground (USFS)
End: Kodachrome Basin State Park (State), near Cannonville, UT
Our campsite was well-shaded and fairly isolated, so we did not wake up until after 8:30. That is
late, even for us. While getting ready to eat breakfast, and not paying attention, a Red Squirrel
dashed up onto the picnic table and grabbed an apple I had put out for our breakfast. (Picture
posted yesterday) Not only did he grab it, he got it down on the ground and proceeded to run
up the tree with it. These squirrels are half the size of the typical Eastern Fox Squirrel. He was
so fast we did not have a chance to shoo him away. We watched as he nibbled away and finally
tucked it into a branch, high over our heads. Hopefully the apple was a healthy addition to his
diet.
Before leaving Duck Creek area, we found 2 letterboxes there and up by Navajo Lake, a short
distance up UT 14. This road continues west to Cedar Breaks National Monument, over 11,000
ft elevation and finally down to Cedar City, along I-15. It is a spectacular drive! Today we headed
back east to US 89. We did stopped at the Duck Creek Visitor Center (USFS) for their bonus
stamps and to ask about hummingbirds. We had not gotten any hummingbirds at our feeder in
camp, which seemed unusual. The staff told us the Broad-tailed Hummingbirds had
disappeared over two weeks ago, a mystery to them, as well.
We continued north on US 89 to the intersection of UT 12, heading into Red Canyon Visitor Center and Bryce Canyon National Park, by lunch time. We didn't spend much time in either of
these, as we have explored them extensively in the past. Both are worth a longer visit.
Red Canyon Scenic Area - UT 12
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We continued along UT 12, eventually coming to Cannonville and deciding to go out to
Kodachrome Basin State Park. Besides having a smashed penny machine at the park office, we had
decided to camp here. This was our first visit to this park. It was a bit warm, but we chose a
campsite in their new primitive camping area ($16) and with shade.
Kodachrome Basin State Park
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About eleven miles south, on Cottonwood Canyon Road, on a dirt road running through the
middle of the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument (BLM), is Grosvenor Arch. This is
a spectacular double arch, named after the founder of the National Geographic Society. We
were told the road should be passable, the last significant rain was over 2 days ago. Only one
crossing was a bit slick and rough for our cargo van. Definitely worth the drive, but always check
road conditions with the monument or state park staff before driving out there. We understand
the tow out can run over $700.
Grosvenor Arch
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Kodrachrome State Park spire
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A quiet evening in camp, only one other camper in the this 10 unit campground. The regular
campground has showers and some sites with full hook ups. The sunset was stunning.
Sunset
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Passport Stamps
Bryce Canyon National Park - Bryce Canyon, UT
Grand Staircase-Escalante NM - Cannonville, UT
Bonus Stamps
Red Canyon - date - Dixie National Forest
Dixie National Forest
Kodachrome Basin - date - Utah State Parks
Wildlife Sightings
Mule deer
Chipmunk
Bat
Red Squirrel
Mountain Chickadee
Western Bluebird
Common Raven
Black-billed Magpie
Osprey
Prairie Falcon
Lesser Goldfinch
Western Scrub Jay
Broad-tailed Hummingbird
UT 12 to Capitol Reef National Park
Sunday, August 30
Start: Kodachrome Basin State Park
End: Fruita Campground (NPS), Capitol Reef National Park
Note - I will be offline for a couple of days. This report will be back by the weekend.
Enjoyed a quiet night in the new, primitive campground at Kodachrome Basin State Park. On
our way out I stopped at the visitor center to receive my Junior Ranger badge. The program was inside the park newspaper and easy to complete, for all ages.
Kodachrome Basin SP - AM
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We drove back to UT 12, with our next stop in Escalante for a letterbox near an archaeological
site and then into town to the multi-agency visitor center, Escalante Interagency Visitor Center.
The sculpture out front of a Western Collared Lizard is a favorite of mine.
Western Collared Lizard Sculpture - Escalante Interagency Visitor Center
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After lunch in Escalante we continued on UT 12 to Boulder and a brief stop at the Anasazi State Park. There is an admission fee, well worth the cost and time to explore this park. The drive from there continues up a ridge, over 9,000 feet, and finally into Capitol Reef National Park. We arrived in time, around 2:30 PM, to get a campsite. Several times we have missed getting a campsite here. We went back to the visitor center to pick up the Junior Ranger booklet. From there we drove out to the petroglyph display.
Capitol Reef Petroglyphs
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On our way back to camp we stopped at a couple of the U-Pick orchards within the park. The
area surrounding the campground was a pioneer settlement and the park has maintained the
orchards. There is a store next to the campground where you can purchase fresh-baked bread,
pies and cinnamon rolls.
Peach Orchard
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Before dinner I went back to the visitor center for a ranger program. It was a great program,
outside against a spectacular backdrop. The topic was Fossils in Capitol Reef; his handouts and the specimens he passed around made the program educational and interesting. By attending the program I had completed the requirements for their Junior Ranger program.
Ranger Program
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While at the ranger program my husband walked over to the store and bought cinnamon. We had decided we wanted fried apples with our dinner - yum!
Fried Apples
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Passport Stamps
Glen Canyon NRA - Escalante, UT
Grand Staircase-Escalante NM
- Escalante, UT
- Boulder, UT
Capitol Reef National Park - Torrey, UT
Bonus Stamp
Anasazi State Park - date - Boulder, Utah
Wildlife Sightings
Mule Deer
Bat
Rock Squirrel
Ground Squirrel
Coyote (heard)
Wild Turkey
Common Raven
Turkey Vulture
American Kestrel
Western Bluebird
Mountain Bluebird
Say's Phoebe
Mourning Dove
Quail (heard)
Black-chinned Hummingbird
Broad-tailed Hummingbird
North to Grand Teton National Park
Thursday, September 3
Start: BLM Point, near Fossil Buttes NM
End: Gros Ventre campground (NPS), Grand Teton NP
Our free night of camping out in the middle of nowhere worked out well. The wind died down for most of the night, picked up just before dawn. We were able to fix breakfast then head back towards the visitor center. We stopped at the picnic area and explored along the Nature Trail on the way down. Outside the visitor center is a very well done geologic timeline, it begins at the parking area and wraps around the outside of the visitor center. The spacing is to scale, identifying the history of life on earth, as well as the major geologic changes. A very nice display which puts in perspective our very minor amount of time here on Earth.
Fossil Butte NM - Nature Trail
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Geologic Timeline outside visitor center
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At the visitor center we turned in our completed Senior Ranger booklets. A GeoCorp Intern checked them over, administered the oath and gave us the very attractive patch.
Senior Ranger
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Patch
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We drove back into Kemmerer on US 30, then headed north on US 189. It was a new route for
us and very enjoyable. The drive along the Fontenelle Reservoir was scenic. We stopped for
lunch in Big Piney at a Mexican restaurant, La Cabana, it was reasonably priced and tasty.
Continuing north we joined up with US 191 for a very scenic drive into Hoback Junction and US
89. From there we passed through Jackson; stopping for groceries and at the multi-agency
visitor center on the north edge of town.
We got a camping space at Gros Ventre campground, within Grand Teton National Park for 3 nights. This weekend is Labor Day so we wanted to secure a spot for several nights. None of the campsites are reservable within Grand Teton which makes it easier to show up and stake out a site. The best part of the day was finding out that they finally have Bear Boxes in this campground, not all of the sites, but quite a few. In the past every item related to food; even stoves and water bottles had to be put back in your vehicle every night. So it was nice to be able to store everything in the Bear Box when you will be in the same site for several days. It is the little things that make my day!
Bear Box
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Bonus stamps
National Elk Refuge - date - Jackson, WY
National Elk Refuge-1912-2012 - Celebrating A Century
National Elk Refuge - Jackson, Wyoming (elk pictorial)
Elk pictorial
Wildlife Sightings
Least Chipmunk
Uinta Ground Squirrel (very plump)
Pronghorn
Bat
White-tailed Prairie Dog
American Robin
Mountain Chickadee
Great Blue Heron
Brewer's Blackbird
Cormorant
Red-tailed Hawk
Sparrow
Mountain Bluebird
Canada Geese
Mallard
White Pelican
American Crow
Northern Flicker
Jackson & National Elk Refuge
Saturday, September 5
Start & End: Gros Ventre Campground
Right after we went to sleep a strong thunderstorm with lots of lightning blew over us and
dumped a lot of rain off and on all night long. We had already planned to go into Jackson for
breakfast so the light rain in the morning didn't affect us. Others had the same idea, the few
restaurants in Jackson that serve breakfast were very busy with wait times. We found a nice
Mexican restaurant and enjoyed breakfast indoors and no crowd. The rest of the morning was
spent doing chores; laundry, gas, shopping and library. We enjoyed a tasty lunch and fresh-brewed
IPA at Snake River Brewing.
After lunch the weather had cleared, but a cold front was settling in for the next few days. We
spent the afternoon looking for some letterboxes in and around Jackson. Before leaving town
we drove out to the Miller House on National Elk Refuge Rd. It is open from 10 - 4, and free.
The house was built in 1898 by a couple from the MidWest who lived there 14 years before
selling it to the National Elk Refuge, which was established in 1912. The first floor was restored
a few years ago and volunteers are available to show you through the rooms. The view across
the 'hole' to the Teton's was beautiful.
Miller House
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View across National Elk Refuge
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We stopped by the side of the road to do some birdwatching along Flat Creek on the way back
to camp. Before turning into camp we continued past Kelly and up to the Gros Ventre Slide Geological Area. This is a geologic event that occurred in 1925. The US Forest Service has interpretive signs and a trail. The drive up to the area along the Gros Ventre River is very scenic.
Gros Ventre Slide
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Much cooler in camp, upper 50s, and predicting freezing temperature tonight. Just after dinner
a bull and cow moose came into the campground, about 3 sites away. They were very
unconcerned with the crowd taking their picture; they were busy thrashing the shrubbery for
their dinner. Very impressive! Every time we have stayed at this campground we have
encountered moose.
Moose in Gros Ventre campground
Bull moose
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Bull moose - silent bugle
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Bull & cow moose
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Budget at end of 2 weeks = $1000, or $500/week. This is below our usual $650/week budget.
Even with eating out quite a bit, the lower cost of federal campgrounds, especially with the
Golden Age pass, and not driving long distances has kept the costs lower.
Bonus stamp
Historic Miller Ranch - date - Jackson, WY
Wildlife Sightings
Moose - Bull and Cow
Mule Deer
Least Chipmunk
Trumpeter Swan
Eastern Kingbird
Brewer's Blackbird
American Robin
American Coot
Canada Geese
Mountain Bluebird
Common Raven
Cliff Swallow
Mountain Chickadee
Colter Bay (GTNP) and Continental Divide - WY
Sunday, September 6
Start: Gros Ventre Campground, Grand Teton NP
End: Colter Bay Campground (NPS), Grand Teton NP
Very cold night, woke to frost on the windows. We had planned for a cold morning by having to
only heat water for coffee, tea and instant oatmeal. We were on the road by 8:30 heading up to
Colter Bay. Even with it being Labor Day weekend it looked like we would be able to move
campgrounds in the middle of the holiday weekend. We arrived by 10 AM and were assigned a
very nice site, on an outer edge, with woods and the lake just below the site.
Teton Range - heading north
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First order of business was passport stamps at the visitor center, then showers. The showers at
Colter Bay are excellent. You pay in the laundromat and then enter the separate shower areas.
Why are they wonderful - not timed, lots of hot water and tall shower heads! The current cost is
$4.25. The only improvement they could make is more hooks - only a single hook - not double!
There is a bench within the changing area.
After fixing lunch we headed back put of the park along US 26 to Togwotee Pass, where the
Continental Divide trail crosses. The Continental Divide Trail is considered the hardest of all the
thru-hikes to do in the US. It stretches from The New Mexico-Mexico border up to the Montana-
Canada border and follows the ridge of the Rocky Mountains for the majority of the route. Along
this drive we found 2 letterboxes and spectacular views.
On the way back we diverted off US 26 and followed the Turpin Meadow Loop which starts out as a well-graded gravel road on the east end and becomes paved down in the meadow and heading back to US 26, closer to Moran Junction. We were hoping to see some wildlife, but nothing out except the 2 legged variety when we got down in the meadow and passed several guest ranches.
We drove back into the park and stopped at several pullouts to birdwatch. Today was sunny, but
still cool. No rain and few clouds, probably reached 60 degrees. Back at camp we continued to
birdwatch at our site.
Passport stamps
Grand Teton National Park - Colter Bay
John D. Rockefeller, Jr. - Memorial Parkway
Wildlife Sightings
Least Chipmunk
Red Squirrel
Great Blue Heron
Pine Siskin
Yellow-rumped Warbler
Swainson's Hawk
Red-tailed Hawk
Mountain Bluebird
American Robin
Common Raven
Turkey Vulture
Clark's Nutcracker
Canada Geese
North to Yellowstone National Park
Monday, September 7 - Labor Day
Start: Colter Bay campground
End: Baker Hole campground (USFS), W. Yellowstone, MT
Not quite as cold this AM, but chilly. I got up to walk down to the lake and within 25 yds of our campsite I spotted a Black Bear. He was down below the ridge of our campsite. By the time I got my camera activated he took off into the woods. I had backed off to give him space, but still I wanted to go down to the lake. I waited a few minutes then 'clapped' my way down the bank to the lakeside. A couple was unloading a pickup and had several coolers stacked up, plus many bags of food they were taking to a nearby set of tables. I warned them that a bear was close by and to stay close to their food. On the way back up to my campsite I spoke to a few other campers who were outside and cooking breakfast. I also mentioned it to the campground staff as we left.
Cold morning and a restaurant nearby is how we like to start our day. The Colter Ranch House
is in Colter Bay Village and offers a buffet and menu option for breakfast. We splurged and
enjoyed their buffet, lots of choices including fresh fruit and some high quality pastries. The $15 buffet includes your hot beverage and juice. The menu included lower priced items, between $5 and $10.
We headed north into Yellowstone National Park. After stopping at Grant Village visitor center and picking up the Junior Ranger booklet plus tokens and passport stamps, we decided to head for Madison and get a campsite for the next several days. When we arrived by noon it was full. It is well placed in the middle of the park and always popular, even after the Labor Day crowd had left. The backup plan was to head out to West Yellowstone and stay at a USFS campground we had stayed at before. Good choice - 25 degrees predicted for tonight and there was an electric site still available. With the Golden Age pass it was only $14. We have a small electric heater that we use in the evening while reading and turn it on in the morning before we get dressed. It also allows for easier cooking with a microwave and electric skillet. We finally saw Bison along the road between Old Faithful and Madison. They were a bit off the road and everyone either had pulled off the roadway or kept driving at a reasonable rate so there was not the usual animal traffic jam.
Bison
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We spent the rest of the day exploring west to Hegben Lake and the Earthquake Lake. A visitor center, plus numerous roadside interpretative signs tell about the earthquake in 1959 which claimed 28 lives and created a new lake. The US Forest Service has done a great job of explaining this event. Along the way we found several letterboxes, including one which took us off the main highway into the back country.
Hegben Geologic Area
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1959 slide
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Earthquake Lake
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Driving from Grand Teton NP through Yellowstone NP and west along US 20 we crossed the
Continental Divide numerous times. Besides being a long distance hiking trail this feature
determines where water will end up; in the Atlantic Ocean or the Pacific Ocean.
Continental Divide
Highway sign
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Trail sign
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Back at camp we fixed a tasty dinner and enjoyed some late afternoon sunshine. Afterwards we
walked along the Madison River, which runs along the backside of the campground, and
watched many small fry of trout jumping.
Madison River at Baker Hole campground
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Passport stamps
John D. Rockefeller Jr. - Memorial Parkway
Yellowstone National Park
-Snake River Ranger Station
-Grant Visitor Center
Yellowstone NP - West Yellowstone Visitor Center
Wildlife Sightings
Black Bear
Bison
Red Squirrel
Least Chipmunk
Trout
Swainson's Hawk
Cliff Swallow
Dark-eyed Junco
White Pelican
Common Raven
American Robin
Seagull
Canada Geese
Song Sparrow
Yellowstone National Park - South Loop
Tuesday, September 8
Start & End: Baker Hole Campground, West Yellowstone, WY
Yep, it was cold! Woke up to frost inside the windows and up on the inside roof of the van. Ran the heater for about 1/2 hour before getting dressed. Made hot beverages, then went into town and had breakfast at McDonalds; busy, but not very, just lots of campers!
Back into the park to do the southern loop; Madison, Old Faithful, West Thumb, Fishing Bridge, Canyon and Norris Geyser! Best day ever in Yellowstone! Being here the day after Labor Day has paid off, much less traffic. Could drive for miles without seeing other cars and the animal sightings only caused traffic to slow, not stop. Parking was available at every stop we made. At Old Faithful I waited for the next eruption, about a half hour. I needed to time it for a Junior Ranger activity. By doing that I learned that the length of the eruption helps to predict the next eruption. Because this one lasted over 3 1/2 min, almost 4 minutes, the next eruption would be 90 minutes away. Later in the day I learned that my prediction, based on timing of the one I saw, matched the park's prediction, to the minute!
We spent quite a bit of time at Fishing Bridge. I attended a Ranger program which was
excellent. It was only 20 minutes long, but the ranger did an excellent job. The title was
"Experiencing Wildlife". He told us they are including this at the beginning of every park
presentation due to the increase of serious injuries because people are not respecting the
power of the animals. At the end he offered to have us wear the bear skin, and pose with us.
Princess Running Bear at Fishing Bridge Visitor Center
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Before leaving the area we enjoyed an ice cream treat. Not sure the brand, but we both felt the flavors were some of the best we've had. I had 'Chocolate Runs Through It' and my husband had 'Peanut Butter Chip', worth every calorie! Up at the Canyon area we enjoyed the exhibits in the visitor center, then took the North Rim Drive to view the Upper Waterfall, always beautiful.
Canyon Upper Waterfall
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Back across the middle of the park to Norris Geyser Fields, then back to West Yellowstone. We saw several elk herds on the way back. Enjoyed a beer and dinner at the Slippery Otter Pub before going back to camp -- 29 degrees predicted for tonight's low.
Elk
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Slippery Otter Pub
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Passport Stamps
Yellowstone National Park
- Madison
- Old Faithful Visitor Center
- West Thumb
- Fishing Bridge VC
- Canyon Visitor Center
- Norris Geyser Basin
Wildlife Sightings
Bison
Elk
Red Squirrel
Least Chipmunk
Brewer's Blackbird
Tundra Swan
Canada Geese
American Robin
Mountain Bluebird
Ducks
Common Raven
Cormorant
Yellowstone National Park - North Loop
Wednesday, September 9
Start: Baker Hole Campground, West Yellowstone, MT
End: Mammoth Hot Springs Campground (NPS), Yellowstone NP, Mammoth, WY
Not quite as cold last night, didn't have any frost inside the windows or on the roof van. We packed up and went into West Yellowstone for scrumptious pastries and hot beverages at The Book Peddler, plus a letterbox! A bit of a bunch-up at the entrance gate to Yellowstone this AM, at about 9:30. After a couple of animal slow-downs for elk and bison the crowd thinned out nicely.
Our first stop was at the Norris Ranger Museum, great displays about the early days of park
rangers. The volunteer on staff was a 37 year NPS employee and superintendent at several
large parks. We shared stories about the previous government shut-downs from his perspective
and ours. Some discussion about a potential one this Fall (at this post - no threat until Dec. 11).
His take - he's retired now!
While back at the canyon we went out on the South Rim Drive and enjoyed another view of the
Upper Falls. From there we made our way to Tower, hoping for a campsite, but it was Full by
noon. The previous 2 days it had not filled until 3 PM. Hmmmm, it appears all of the people
without school-age children are out and about, and waited until after Labor Day to travel.
North Entrance Arch at Gardner
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We arrived at Mammoth by 1 PM and got a site, with only 2 left! After setting up we went into
Gardner to visit the Yellowstone Association store for a passport stamp and to get a few
groceries. Back to Mammoth I went to the visitor center to have my Junior Ranger booklet
reviewed. As a Senior, or over 28 years old, I had to do ALL 28 pages. It took me two days to
complete everything. I enjoyed the activities and, as usual, learned a lot.
Junior - Senior Ranger
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Once done there I walked over to the Post Office to have my postcards mailed and hand-cancelled
with the Yellowstone National Park cancellation. The bigger parks have their own post
offices and will hand cancel if you take your mail to the window. I send postcards with the
passport cancellations to our 2 grand-children and 5 great nieces & nephews. They keep them
in albums we have provided. Some of the parents have put up a US map and have them follow
our travels.
We then drove out to Wraith Falls and I hiked up to see them. The best part of the day was the
warmer temperatures! Daytime temps were in the 70s! Back at camp we enjoyed birdwatching
and watching a bull elk graze along the bottom of the campground. The sunset was pretty.
Wraith Falls
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Sunset
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Passport Stamps
Yellowstone National Park
- Norris Ranger Museum
- North Entrance
- Mammoth Visitor Center
Wildlife Sightings
Elk
Bighorn Sheep
Bison
Least Chipmunk
Cedar Waxwing
Mountain Chickadee
Yellow-rumped Warbler
Song Sparrow
American Robin
Osprey
Mountain Bluebird
Common Raven
Beartooth Highway - Montana
Thursday, September 10
Start: Mammoth Hot Springs Campground, Yellowstone NP
End: Horseshoe Bend Campground (NPS), Bighorn Canyon NRA, Lovell, WY
Woke up late, enjoyed breakfast in camp and headed east from Mammoth Hot Springs by 10
AM. A female elk wandered through the campground before we left. We stopped at the Tower
Ranger Station for some bonus stamps. Along the way we mainly saw Bison and Pronghorn.
Again the traffic was tolerable. For the most part people pulled off the road or moved through an
animal sighting at an appropriate rate. Slough Creek and Pebble Creek campgrounds were both
Full by the time we drove by. We stopped for lunch in Cooke City at a small restaurant we had
eaten at a few years ago, not as good this time.
Today we drove the Beartooth Highway for the first time, it was spectacular. It was a perfect day,
clear and temperate. Hopefully some of the pictures will do it justice. We had hoped to see
some Mountain Goats, but all we saw was a Yellow-bellied Marmot run back into the rocks.
Beartooth Highway
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We stopped in Red Lodge at the Forest Service Office, they have some nice displays, lots of
free travel information and a couple of bonus stamps. We also found Montana's Whispering
Giant sculpture by Peter Toth in town next to the Carnegie Library. A lot of street construction
made it difficult to get a good picture, plus the sun was directly behind the face, so the picture
isn't the best.
Whispering Giant # 32 - Red Lodge, MT
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Art Gallery - Old Train Depot
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We wanted to head back into Wyoming to visit Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area, so we
headed east on MT 308, then north on MT 72, and then south on US 310, back into Wyoming.
We drove past the visitor center in Lovell, which had closed at 4:30 and went out to Horseshoe
Bend, along the reservoir within the NRA. The camp had electric and non-electric sites, with the
Golden Age Pass it was $10 for an electric site. The wind was quite strong so we used the
microwave to cook some fresh corn on the cob and had sandwiches. The light and the colors
surrounding the area were very pretty.
Horseshoe Bend at Bighorn Canyon NRA
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Bonus Stamps
Tower Falls - Yellowstone (pictorial - small & large)
Custer Gallatin NF - date -Beartooth RD MT
Beartooth Hwy - date - Red Lodge, MT
Wildlife Sightings
Elk
Bison
Pronghorn
Least Chipmunk
Yellow-bellied Marmot
Deer
Clark's Nutcracker
Red-tailed Hawk
American Robin
Common Raven
Black-billed Magpie
Brown-headed Cowbird
Brewer's Blackbird
Song Sparrow
Bighorn Mountains - US 16
Friday, September 11
Start: Horseshoe Bend Campground, Bighorn Canyon NRA, Lovell, WY
End: Afterbay Campground (NPS), Bighorn Canyon NRA, Ft. Smith, MT
Quiet night, the wind finally died down. We headed into Lovell to stop at the visitor center for the Bighorn Canyon NRA. By looking at the map we realized that the Big Horn River was a north flowing river. They claimed 200 species of birds could be seen here in the Spring and Summer, we only saw 3 species. The weather has been perfect the past few days, still feeling summer.
We headed south on WY 310, eventually picking up US 20/16 east to Worland. There we found our 20th Peter Toth's Whispering Giant sculpture. We are not sure we'll get back to all 50 states or we'll get to the towns that have the sculptures.
Worland, WY- Whispering Giant #36 - Indian Brave
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From Worland we headed east on US 16 along the Ten Sleep Canyon and Cloud Peak Skyway Scenic Byway up to Powder River Pass at 9,666 ft. This was a beautiful drive, not quite as rugged as the Beartooth Highway, but well worth the drive. Along the way the BLM has erected geologic signs. There were several letterboxes along the route at beautiful locations.
US 16 - Cloud Peak Skyway Scenic Byway Geologic Signs
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Powder River Pass
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In Buffalo we picked up I-90 and stopped in Sheridan for a couple of letterboxes and supplies.
From there we continued back into Montana and stopped at Little Bighorn Battlefield NM. At 5 PM it was quite busy and lots of out of state license plates. While walking around the National Cemetery we saw quite a few Guinea Hens who are guarding, or using the shade of, tombstones of our veterans.
Little Bighorn Battlefield NM -Guinea Hens
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Across the interstate is a closed motel/RV park that will remain in our family road trip history
forever! As my 42 year old son said in a message today, "that night is burned into my brain!". In 1987 we arrived after dark and took a camp space. We set up our tent, our son slept in our van. Just as we settled in, getting used to the trucks along the very close interstate, a train came along. We honestly thought it was coming through the middle of our tent, we didn't see the tracks when we set up the tent; we were VERY close and scared the @!*# out of us. The trains ran all night. OK, so we thought we knew what we were up against, until we started registering drum beats - the Crow Nation was having their annual Pow Wow at the nearby fairgrounds. The next morning we heard fellow campers proudly stating they had 21 drums last night. Our familyhistory includes the real reason Custer lost - he was kept up all night, the night before the battle! We didn't make it very far that day, we drove across the Big Horn Mountains on 14A and found a cool, shady camp site early in the day for naps!
Back to current time, we drove out to Ft. Smith and camped along the Big Horn River at
Afterbay campground, the north end of the Bighorn Canyon NRA. For $5 we got a decent space
up above the larger RV rigs. Luckily their water was still on, so we filled up all of our containers. It was cool and quiet, great sleeping.
Passport Stamps
Bighorn Canyon NRA - Lovell, WY
Little Bighorn Battlefield NM - Crow Agency, MT
Wildlife Sightings
Pronghorn
White-tailed Deer
Cottontail Rabbit
Black-Tailed Prairie Dog
American Robin
Gull
Western Meadowlark
Common Grackle
Mourning Dove
Wild Turkey
Turkey Vulture
Red-Tailed Hawk
Northern Flicker
Black-Billed Magpie
Greater Sage Grouse
Great Horned Owl - sitting on a fence post, mid-day
Common Raven
Mountain Bluebird
Killdeer
Guinea Hen - domestic
Theordore Roosevelt National Park - North Dakota
Saturday, September 12
Start: Afterbay Campground, Bighorn Canyon NRA, Ft. Smith, MT
End: Medora Campground (private), Medora, ND
Another quiet and cool night, great for sleeping. After breakfast in camp, we made our way north
to Hardin where we stopped at the Big Horn County Museum, right off I-90 at exit 497. This is
one of the best pioneer museums we have ever visited. The exhibits inside and outside are
great. The pioneer buildings and grounds are well-maintained. Most were open to walk inside
for additional exhibits. It is free and well worth a visit.
Big Horn County Museum, Hardin, MT
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We cut north on MT 47 and picked up I-94 heading east towards North Dakota. It was getting
warmer, mid-80s and nothing but Big Sky as we drove across Montana, following the broad
Yellowstone River. We stopped in Miles City for gas and a snack. At McDonalds they were
advertising $11/hr for day shifts. The lobby and drive-through were packed at 1:30, looks like
we are in gas/oil country.
At the North Dakota border on I-94 we saw the best gas prices in quite a while, $2.49, so we
filled up. We reached Medora late afternoon and got a campsite at Medora Campground. Turns
out it was their last night open for the season, all sites were $20. We still got a non-electric site
so we would have a bit more space and have no one on our outer edge. While I took a much
appreciated shower, my husband went into town to the Theodore Roosevelt National Park visitor center and scoped out dinner possibilities. We decided to eat at the Little Missouri Saloon and Restaurant. The YELP reviews weren't stellar, but we thoroughly enjoyed the atmosphere and our meal. The bartender, who also acted as waiter for the saloon area, was amazing. He kept the bar going and was out taking orders and delivering food in the saloon area. Before we left town we got a set of smashed pennies and were lucky enough to see a Washington, DC plate! Only Rhode Island left to complete seeing the license plates of all 50 states, plus DC!
Little Missouri Saloon & Restaurant
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Even though the day had been in the upper 80s the evening cooled off quickly and nicely,
another good night for sleeping.
Budget at end of week 3 was still holding at $500/week.
Passport Stamp
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
- South Unit
- Elkhorn Ranch
Wildlife Sightings
Pronghorn
Cottontail Rabbit
Black-Tailed Prairie Dog
Wild Turkey
Turkey Vulture
Common Raven
American Robin
Mourning Dove
Western Meadowlark
Red-Tailed Hawk
Black-billed Magpie
Northern Flicker
Theodore Roosevelt NP - Painted Canyon, Scenic Drive & Junior Ranger
Sunday, 9/13
Start: Medora Campground, Medora, ND
End: Cottonwood Campground (NPS), Theodore Roosevelt NP, Medora, ND
Before the campground shut for the winter I was able to get a load of laundry done, should take
us home. They had 96 units to leave today! The manager very nicely made available 2 washing
machines, she was busy washing linens from the rental cabins.
We drove out to the Painted Canyon unit, at exit 32 on I-94, about 8 miles east of Medora. We
hiked the one mile loop. It was getting very warm by the time we finished at noon. We decided
to stay in the area another day.
Painted Canyon
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We went back into town and the park and got a campsite at Cottonwood Campground, about 5
miles inside the South Unit. After eating lunch we did the 36 mile scenic drive in this area. We
loved watching the active prairie dogs, most out away from their burrow openings. Along the
drive we saw some single bison and a couple of wild horses. We went back to the visitor
center so I could complete the Junior Ranger booklet. As I was older than 14 I had to complete
all of the activities. As always, I learned several interesting facts about the park.
Junior Ranger presentation
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Seemed like a good idea to go into town and get ice cream, it was 85 degrees. After a bit of
driving around we finally found the only place in town serving ice cream. What a deal - a single
scoop was much more than just a scoop. We wondered if it was an end of season scoop!
Before heading back to camp we did some letterboxing in the area. With our North Dakota finds
that leaves 3 states for me to find a letterbox; Delaware and West Virginia (Summer 2016) and
Hawaii (date undetermined).
Back to camp for dinner and a quiet, cooling evening.
Passport Stamps
Theodore Roosevelt National Park - Painted Canyon
Bonus
Bison - small
Wildlife Sightings
Bison
Black-tailed Prairie Dog
Horse - wild
Common Grackle
Common Raven
Turkey Vulture
Song Sparrow
American Robin
Mountain Bluebird
Devil's Tower National Monument - Wyoming
Tuesday, September 15
Start: Lake Sakakawea SP, Pick City, ND
End: Belle Fourche Campground (NPS), Devil's Tower NM, Devil's Tower, WY
Light rain just as we were waking up, still able to sit outside and enjoy breakfast and another
sighting of the Thirteen-lined Ground Squirrel! At the state park office we got the North Country Trail passport stamp; this trail is the longest trail in the US.
We went to Knife River Indian Villages National Historic Site. As we arrived several school buses were arriving. All week they are hosting 4th graders from around the state; today they were expecting 400 plus. The activities they had set up were very interesting; earthen lodge building, atlatl throwing (yep, with pointed ends!), mountain man demo, Native American flute playing and art project. While taking some photos of the sunflowers in the garden the flute player came out and we started talking. He, Keith Bear, has played all over the world and comes here every year for this week. He has clan ties to Sakakawea and blood ties to Sitting Bull. He first took up flute playing in Flagstaff, AZ.
Knife River Indian Villages NHS
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This year, as part of the National Park Service's Centennial celebration, families of 4th graders can receive an annual park pass ($80 value). The pass will be good until 8/31/2016. Share this information with anyone you know with a 4th grader in the family.
The rest of the day was spent driving back southwest through North Dakota, South Dakota and back into Wyoming to Devil's Tower National Monument. The campground was quite full, but we found a nice spot. Just past the entrance board there is a pile of cut firewood with a sign indicating it was free, but not to remove from this campground. There was also a donation box, asking $5 for 12 pieces. We would rather crawl in and read when it gets dark, but many others took advantage of this good deal, even with a strong wind blowing.
Evening photo - Devil's Tower
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Prairie Dogs at Devil's Tower NM
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Passport Stamps
North Country National Scenic Trail - North Dakota
Knife River Indian Villages NHS - North Dakota
Lewis and Clark Nat'l Historic Trail - North Dakota
Wildlife Sightings
Thirteen-lined Ground Squirrel
Black-tailed Prairie Dog
Pronghorn
White-tailed deer
Mule deer
Red Squirrel
Gull
American Robin
Mourning Dove
American Kestrel
Canada Geese
Rough-legged Hawk
Red-tailed Hawk
Northern Harrier
Wild Turkey
Northern Flicker
Mourning Dove
Pheasant
Turkey Vulture
Devil"s Tower - On our way to The Wonder!
Wednesday, September 16
Start: Devil's Tower NM, WY
End: Casper, WY
Wonderful morning spent in camp having breakfast and watching the wildlife. A nice flock of
turkeys came through. Walked out of the campground to get some morning views of The Tower
- and a sculpture, The Circle of Sacred Smoke, by Junkyu Muto.
Morning view of Devil's Tower
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Tower, Sculpture & Sign
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Sculpture & Tower
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Animals of Devil's Tower Flock of turkeys
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Up at the visitor center it was quite busy, and got busier as the morning wore on. It is apparent
that the late Summer/Fall travel season is in full swing; tour buses, seniors and childless adults,
spilled into the overflow parking area. On our way out we saw a 30s/40s Ford car club pulling in.
So far on this trip we have seen a Corvette group, twice, and a Ford Mustang car group. Always
fun to see these groups on the back roads.
While at Devil's Tower I picked up the Junior Ranger booklet and then hiked the 3 mile lower
loop around the tower, Red Beds Trail. I only saw 2 other groups hiking this trail, most everyone
walks around the base, which is a little over a mile. I enjoyed the solitude and different views.
Red Beds Trail views
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Another view of Devil's Tower
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And yes, I do have more pictures of Devil's Tower, but I'll cease posting! There is something
about this place that keeps the camera clicking!
By noon the wind had picked up and was very strong, 35 mph plus. We drove into Gillette for
gas and a letterbox before heading south to Casper. It was unpleasant driving for the rest of the
day. Once in Casper we visited the National Historic Trails Interpretive Center, on the north end
of town. This BLM center has excellent exhibits and is well-worth the admission price. Four
National Historic Trails traveled this region; Oregon, California, Pony Express and Mormon
Pioneer.
The wind was so bad and we had several errands to run while in Casper so we checked into
the Motel 6. We enjoyed dinner in downtown Casper at The World Famous Wonder Bar, it was
Wonderful! Good local IPA and 1/2 price burger night. With 2 beers, 2 salad bars and 2 burgers,
our total was just under $20. The burger list was extensive and came with fries. Nice old bar
inside, we'll be back the next time we are in Casper.
The World Famous Wonder Bar
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Passport stamps
Devil's Tower National Monument- Devil's Tower, WY
Bonus Stamp
Devil's Tower -pictorial
Wildlife Sightings
Cottontail Rabbit
Black-tailed Prairie Dog
Red Squirrel
Pronghorn
White-tailed deer
Rock Dove
White Pelican
Mountain Bluebird
Northern Flicker
American Robin
Turkey Vulture
Chipping Sparrow
American Crow
American Coot
Canada Geese
Brewer's Blackbird
Fort Laramie NHS & Guernsey State Park
Thursday, September 7
Start: Casper, WY
End: Guernsey State Park, Guernsey, WY
We spent a couple of hours finishing some errands while in Casper before taking I-25 south, but
is actually running east at this point. In Douglas we stopped for some letterboxes and at the
town Chamber of Commerce visitor center. Outside they have a larger-than life Jackalope and
inside they will give you a Jackalope hunting license, plus they have a stamp of a Jackalope. On
the grounds are several train cars and lots of interesting interpretive signs. A stop there is well
worth a short detour off I-25. At the north end of town is a sign indicating there was a WW II
POW camp for Italians.
Douglas POW camp
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Further south we took US 26 to Fort Laramie NHS. In June we had stopped, but it was 100
degrees. At that time I had picked up the Junior Ranger booklet, but did not complete it because
of the heat. They have a unique partnership with Guernsey State Park, which is just up the road;
if you complete both of the programs you receive a special commemorative coin. I was able to
complete the Fort Laramie program by walking around the fort and finding answers in the
different buildings.
Fort Laramie
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Before going into Guernsey State Park to camp we visited the Oregon Trail ruts and Register
Cliff, both are east of the town of Guernsey. Each had information I needed for the state park's
Junior Ranger program.
Oregon Trail ruts
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We camped in the camping area that was closest to the CCC Museum, as that is where I would
need to visit in the morning. Once at the campsite we started hearing a new bird sound, with
some research we were able to determine it was a Townsend's Solitaire. It's call was right at the
edge of annoying, and the other birds must have thought so, as we saw no other birds in the
area.
Passport Stamps
Fort Laramie National Historic Site - Fort Laramie, WY
California Nat'l Historic Trail -MO, OK, KS, NE, CO, WY, UT, ID, NV, CA, OR
Oregon Nat'l Historic Trail - MO, KS, NE, WY, ID, OR, WA
Pony Express Nat'l Historic Trail - MO, KS, NE, CO, WY, UT, NV, CA
Bonus stamp
Fort Laramie National Historic Site - pictorial - Old Bedlam
Wildlife Sightings
Red Squirrel
Pronghorn
Cottontail Rabbit
Common Raven
Osprey
Mourning Dove
Rock Pigeon
Canada Geese
Sage Sparrow
Townsend's Solitaire
