AZ to Upper Great Lakes - May/June 2015
Back on the road, again! Heading out today on a month long road trip with our usual mix of activities along the way; roads less traveled, camping, wildlife viewing, National Park sites, letterboxing and anything else that catches our fancy.
Our general itinerary is;
Eastern AZ, N on US 666 (actually US 191, but we prefer the historic designation)
Northern NM - Valles Caldera NM, Northern Rio Grande NHA, Farmington for letterboxing gathering
Southern Colorado - Chimney Rocks NM, picking up US 50
Kansas - Missouri - Illinois on US 50
Illinois - family visit, Springfield, & Pullman National Monument (Chicago)
Michigan - western edge through Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore, Sleeping Bear Dunes NL, Upper Peninsula. . .
Wisconsin - Minnesota - Iowa - Nebraska - Colorado - New Mexico
I don't plan to post daily reports, but will hit the highlights along the way - stay tuned.
NM 126 to Bandelier National Monument
Wednesday, May 27, 2015
Start: Clear Creek campground, Jemez Mountains
Finish: Bandelier National Monument, NM
Great morning in camp bird watching. At 8400 ft we expected it to be colder than it was, hung out until almost 10 AM. As I mentioned in the first post, we would be on roads less travelled. Most of the trip has been on those roads and today was no exception. We continued east on NM126. At the beginning of the road, in Cuba, signs were posted that part of the road was unimproved and not recommended for trucks, trailers or large RVs. After passing through road construction where they were improving the road we hit a stretch of dirt road that was heavily rutted, some of the area currently being graded, but most was drivable in the van, with high clearance. Rand-McNally shows this section as dirt.
Welded Tuft
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Along the way the welded tuft rock formations were spectacular. We were headed to Valles Caldera National Preserve, a new unit of the National Park Service (NPS). The transfer to the NPS will take place on October 1, 2015. It has been managed by the US Forest Service and a private trust until this year. It is the site of a supervolcano, which erupted about one million years ago and provided the welded tuft we saw earlier in the day. After checking in at the Visitor Center we were given a driving pass to go further into the park. We drove around the edge of the caldera and parked to have lunch overlooking a large meadow. On the way back we saw three elk come down from the forest.
We ended the day early along NM 4 at Bandelier National Monument. After getting a campsite we learned that you can drive your private vehicle down to the visitor center after 3 PM ( or before 9 AM). The rest of the day there is a free shuttle from White Rock or near the campground. The ruins are special in Bandelier, but I think the buildings constructed by the CCC in the mid 30s are also special.
Bandelier Visitor Center buildings
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Restful evening in camp after a busy day of wildlife viewing!
Passport Stamp
Bandelier National Monument - Los Alamos, NM
Bonus
Northern Rio Grande National Heritage Area
Bandelier National Monument -pictorial
Wildlife Sightings
Elk (Jemez Mtns & Valles Caldera NP)
Mule Deer (Bandelier NM)
Red Squirrel
Golden-mantled ground squirrel
Abert's Squirrel
Gunnison's Prairie Dog (Valles Caldera NP)
Cottontail Rabbit
American Robin
Broad-tailed Hummingbird
Black-chinned Hummingbird
Pine Siskin
Rufous-crowned Sparrow
Ruby-crowned Kinglet
Yellow-rumped Warbler
Northern Flicker, yellow-shafted
Hammond's Flycatcher
Common Raven
Steller's Jay
Barn Swallow
Brewer's Blackbird
White-winged Dove
Turkey Vulture
Western Bluebird
Mountain Bluebird
Red-tailed Hawk
US 64 - West from Taos to Navajo City
Thursday May 28, 2015
Start: Bandelier National Monument
Finish: Rio Grande De Norte National Monument (BLM), W of Questa, NM
Saw a few more birds in camp before continuing east on NM 4, eventually heading S on US 84 to the town of Tesque, this is just north of Santa Fe. A few years ago we missed finding a letterbox in a series planted in this area, we recently learned that it was still there so we made a quick trip to find this box and we were successful!
We ventured back north on US 84 through Espanola, then north on NM 68, up along the Rio Grande River to the BLM visitor center at Pilar. We took the road through Pilar and the BLM recreation area to the Taos Junction bridge. We hiked up the Rio Pueblo de Taos river a short distance, listening to the roar of the river through this narrow canyon.
Rio Pueblo de Taos River, Pilar
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In Taos we stopped at a favorite restaurant, El Taoseno. They have greatly improved the appearance, inside and out, and left the food alone! It is authentic, excellent and usually has more locals eating than tourists. Today we enjoyed their special; Blue Corn Chicken Enchiladas - Christmas style, red and green chile sauce. Sopapillas come with the meal, with some honey it makes the perfect dessert!
Our next stop was a new national monument and the final BLM - New Mexico stamp. Last Fall we were able to get all of the others. The New Mexico BLM office, near Santa Fe, created these stamps because of the success of the National Park passport stamps. They are considered bonus by NPS stamp collectors. We have enjoyed visiting some new places in New Mexico. This site is north of Taos, off NM 522. The paved road brings you to the edge of the canyon with the Rio Grande River far below. This section of the river is designated a Wild and Scenic River. We stopped at the visitor center and got the stamp and then set up camp. We got a couple of hummingbirds at our feeder and saw several others birds.
Rio Grande del Norte NM
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Window through basalt wall with river down below
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This area is very remote, no services available except for the visitor center, campgrounds and picnic areas. If you visit, bring your own food and supplies. There was water in the campgrounds and picnic areas.
Friday, May 29
Start: Rio Grande del Norte NM
Finish: Navajo Lake State Park, Cottonwood Campground ( east of Aztec, NM)
Beautiful road trip day across northern New Mexico. We drove back towards Taos and picked up US 64, taking it west, all the way to Navajo City to end the day at Navajo Lake State Park. Taos area is at 7500 ft., at one point on US 64 we were over 10,000 ft with patches of snow along the side of the road.
Blue Flax in campground
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Rio Grande Gorge bridge, just west of Taos
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Once in camp we did some letterboxing in the area and enjoyed another evening of birding from our campsite. At one point we had five hummingbirds vying for the three holes in the feeder. First night of camping, on this trip, in a full campground; it must be Friday night!
Passport Stamp
Old Spanish Trail NHT - Rio Grande Gorge Visitor Center, NM
Bonus
Rio Grande del Norte National Monument - BLM New Mexico
Wildlife Viewing
Cottontail Rabbit
Lizard
Elk
Gunnison's Prairie Dog
Rock Squirrel
Tarantula Hawk (insect)
Turkey Vulture
Common Raven
Broad-tailed Hummingbird
Black-chinned Hummingbird
White-winged Dove
Yellow-rumped Warbler
Canada Geese
Mallard
Western Bluebird
Black-billed Magpie
Western Scrub Jay
Brewer's Blackbird
Say's Phoebe
Scott's Oriole
Lark Sparrow
American Coot
Osprey
Northern Mockingbird
House Finch
Mountain Bluebird
American Kestrel
House Finch
Cassin's Kingbird
Bullock's Oriole
Great Blue Heron
Black-headed Grosbeak
Farmington, NM & Southern Colorado, US 160
Saturday, May 30
Start: Navajo Lake State Park
Finish: Farmington, NM
Today was a letterboxing day - all day. About 40 of us gathered in Farmington at the Riverside Nature Center, along the Animas River. For those who haven't read my trip reports before I'll give a brief description of letterboxing. Using clues from 2 different websites you find a small container which holds a hand-carved (usually) stamp and a log book. As a letterboxer you carry your own hand- carved, or store-bought stamp (signature stamp) and logbook. You place your stamp in the box's logbook and place the box's stamp impression in your logbooks. Doesn't sound too exciting? For some of us it becomes an obsession, and one that goes very well with road trips! Kids love the 'treasure hunt'. It is different from geocaching, clues are used and nothing is left or taken from the box.
www.letterboxing.org
www.atlasquest.com
Mallard & goslings at the nature center
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We ended the day at Three Rivers Brewery with a small group from the day's gathering. Three River's Brewery takes up an entire city block; tap and game room, banquet room, pizzeria, restaurant and the brew tanks!
Sunday, May 31
Start: Farmington, NM
Finish: Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve (almost)
After finding a few more letterboxes this morning we left Farmington and headed north into Colorado. We stopped at Aztec National Monument. The ruins there are very accessible and significant. Following US 550 north we entered Colorado and immediately had spectacular vistas of the snow covered San Juan Mountains. The storms from 2 weeks ago left fresh snow. The drive east along US 160 was gorgeous. We stopped at Chimney Rocks National Monument (USFS). We enjoyed a picnic lunch at the visitor center cabin. Tour times up to the top did not mesh with our schedule today, but it is a great tour up to the ruins.
Chimney Rock National Monument
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After leaving Pagosa Springs we stopped along US 160 at Treasure Falls.
Treasure Falls
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From there we crossed Wolf Creek Pass at 10,856 ft. It was gorgeous, lots of rushing water and deep snowfields, well off the highway. Between Del Norte and Monte Vista is an excellent roadside monument to the Old Spanish Trail. Along our trip we have gotten several of the Old Spanish National Historic Trail passport stamps.
Trail sign
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Monument
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Details
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Our destination for the day was Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve, with plans to camp within the park. To our surprise the campground was Full, at 4:30 PM on a Sunday evening, the last day of May. This campground is well known for filling early and on most days during tourist season. Today was the first day of this trip that we saw lots of school age kids. So, instead of camping in the park we camped next to the park, at Oasis Campground for $26.75 for a tent site. A state park is nearby, but in Colorado their camping & park fees are the same or more than private campgrounds. There is also a USFS site up into the mountain area, we did not want to do the extra driving. The view was spectacular! A light rain settled in just as I finished cooking dinner, we sat in the van and enjoyed the view. It cleared up by sunset.
Evening view of Great Sand Dunes NP & P
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Passport Stamps
Aztec Ruins National Monument - Aztec, NM
Old Spanish NHT - Aztec Ruins National Monument, NM
Bonus
Chimney Rock National Monument - Colorado SJNF
Wildlife Sightings
Gunnison's Prairie Dog
Chipmunk
Ground Squirrel
Northern Mockingbird
House Sparrow
House Finch
Brown-headed Cowbird
Bullock's Oriole
Cassin's Kingbird
Broad-tailed Hummingbird
Black-chinned Hummingbird
Canada Goose & goslings
Mallard & goslings
Great-tailed Grackle
Common Raven
Western Bluebird
Steller's Jay
American Robin
US 50 - E. Colorado to W. Kansas
Monday, June 1
Start: Great Sand Dunes NP & P (almost)
Finish: Stafford, KS - US 50 Rest Area
Morning light at Great Sand Dunes NP & P
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Quiet night at the Oasis Campground. We noticed a lot of families camping here. It does have showers and a laundry room, plus a restaurant in the front. The campsites are scattered and not well-defined, but it had a 'forest service' feel to it. The most unusual part was the railcar bathrooms! The inside was clean and freshly painted, very functional.
Railcar restrooms - Oasis Campground
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We went into the park. I walked the Nature Trail that started from the visitor center. We had spent most a day here last October so we started making our way east, still following US 160 to Walsenburg, then CO 10 to La Junta. We had lunch at the Bamboo Panda in town, reasonable and hit the spot.
Along the route we stopped at the Fort Garland Museum for passport stamps. This museum is very well maintained, the staff were working on the adobe walls. After lunch we stopped at the USFS in La Junta for passport and bonus stamps and then drove out to Bent's Old Fort National Historic Site. We always enjoy the walk out to the fort and then walking around inside. The day was heating up, and the humidity was high because the Arkansas River was flooded, coming fairly close to the fort.
Bent's Old Fort NHS
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Arkansas flooding at Bent's Old Fort - look for the interpretive sign (look past the trees in front)
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Before leaving Colorado we stopped at Boggsville, south of Las Animas. This was the last home of Kit Carson, his initial grave site is there. Even though both the website and sign on site said it should have been open, it was not. We walked around the couple of buildings and continued on our way.
Kit Carson - original grave
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Kansas - it was later in the afternoon than we had realized, but after changing time zones and checking on daylight we decide to drive further than we normally would do. We did stop in Dodge City to check on a letterbox my husband had planted in 2007, still there and in good shape. US 50 in Eastern Colorado and Western Kansas is easy driving, even when it is only 2 lane. Lots of trucks, but it moves well. We ended up near Stafford at Rest Area. Kansas allows overnight sleeping in their Rest Areas. This one was wonderful; big trees, very nice restroom and very little traffic in and out overnight.
Passport Stamps
Old Spanish National Historic Trail - Mosca, CO
Great Sand Dunes NP & PRES - Mosca, CO
Sangre de Cristo National Heritage Area - San Luis Valley
Old Spanish NHT - Fort Garland Museum, CO
Santa Fe NHT - Comanche National Grasslands, CO
Santa Fe NHT - La Junta, CO
Bent's Old Fort NHS - La Junta, CO
Bonus stamps
Moose - at Comanche National Grassland's USFS Office
Dinosaur - Comanche National Grassland - Colorado
Wildlife Sightings
Pronghorn
Black-tailed Prairie Dog
White-tailed Deer
Rufous-crowned Sparrow
Broad-tailed Hummingbird
Common Raven
American Crow
Black-billed Magpie
Vesper Sparrow
Scissor-tailed Flycatcher
Hawk
Mallard
Red-winged Blackbird
Swallow
Western Meadowlark
American Robin
Mourning Dove
Western Kingbird
Kildeer
US 50 - Kansas & Missouri
Saturday, June 6
Start: Hutchinson, KS
Finish: Sedalia, MO
Back to US 50, heading east. Even on a Saturday traffic moves well, a couple of cars passed us the 2-lane stretches, but there are plenty of passing lanes interspersed to make driving easy.
First stop of the day was to Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve, just north of US 50 near Strong City. It had been a number of years since I have visited this site. Since my last visit they have built a modern visitor center. The displays inside are excellent, and show the plant and animal diversity within this ecosystem. This park site has numerous trails to hike, plus several historic ranch buildings to tour.
Visitor Center & Barn
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After Emporia, KS US 50 becomes I-35 heading into Kansas City, KS & MO. Just before US 50 turns east on I-435 we stopped in Olathe, KS to check out Mahaffie Stagecoach Stop and Farm Historic Site, an original stagecoach stop along the Santa Fe Trail. It is a private organization, admission price is $7.00 for adults. Besides including a short stagecoach ride, there are numerous farm animals. This also is a tourist information center, they have a passport stamp for the Santa Fe NHT.
Mahaffie Stagecoach Stop & Farm Museum
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After we entered Missouri we made a quick stop at the Trailside Center. We drove by thinking it was a fire station, the trail center was a smaller, separate building at the end of the fire station. We expected more of an interpretive site, it was primarily a Kansas/Missouri tourist information center, with some local history displayed. It also has the NHT stamps for Santa Fe, Oregon & California. The three trails all followed the same route in this area.
US 50 in Missouri was very easy driving, divided 4-lane with very few stops. The geography changed, lots of trees and small hills. A bit too humid for us Desert Rats, especially with mid 80s temperature. Another motel night, too muggy for camping.
Sunday, June 7
Start: Sedalia, MO
Finish: Springfield, IL
Not exactly a quiet night at the motel, a car show was in town and filled the motels. Outside our room the low-rider trucks were parked and the the owners sat outside until midnight talking, right below our room. Never loud, or obnoxious, just persistent chit-chat.
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Our white van, with windows in the back, can be seen off to the left.
We continued on US 50 into the St. Louis area, stopping for a few letterboxes along the way. This was our last day following US 50, we have thoroughly enjoyed the relaxed pace. For us, so much better than following the interstates, day after day. We appreciate that we are able to take more time in our travels and enjoy the 'blue highways'. The day was warming up and getting sticky - humidity!
We enjoyed the film about Ulysses S. Grant at his home outside St. Louis. I always enjoy learning more details about someone you 'thought' you knew so much about. The Ulysses S. Grant National Historic Site is encircled by the commercial, and expensive Grant's Farm, managed by members of the Busch family. Only 10 acres of the original 900 acres of the farm are now preserved by the NPS. The barn/ museum was extremely well recreated into a modern museum about his life, yet maintains the barn structure and facilities.
Grant Museum - Barn
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Grant home
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We found a few more letterboxes before melting from the heat & humidity, we are such Desert Rats. We crossed into Illinois and ended the day south of Springfield. Strong storms were predicted for the evening, very glad to be inside with air conditioning.
Passport Stamps
Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve - Strong City, KS
Santa Fe NHT - Mahaffie Stagecoach Stop & Farm HS, KS
Santa Fe NHT - Trailside Center, MO
California National Historic Trail - Trailside Center, MO
Oregon National Historic Trail - Trailside Center, MO
Ulysses S.mGrant NHS - St. louis, MO
Bonus
Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve - pictorial
Mahaffie Stagecoach Stop Farm Historic Site- Olathe, KS
Wildlife Sigtings
Eastern Fox Squirrel
American Bald Eagle
Great Blue Heron
Hawk, ?
Starling
Red-winged Blackbird
House Sparrow
Northern Mockingbird
Northern Cardinal
Canada Goose & goslings
Common Grackle
Brewer's Blackbird
Brown-headed Cowbird
Mourning Dove
Rock Pigeon
Illinois - Lincoln & Pulman
Monday, June 8
Start: Springfield, IL
Finish: Albion, IL
A strong thunderstorm moved through Springfield about 10 PM, the sky was clearing nicely in the morning. After a tasty, basic breakfast at the Hen House we headed into Springfield to visit the Lincoln Home National Historic Site. I never get tired of walking through this area; always amazed out how well preserved the few blocks are, considering it is part of a city and state capitol. A new bonus stamp was available commemorating the 150th Anniversary of the Lincoln Funeral Train. His house in the historic district was draped in black, hard not to feel the emotions of the time.
www.nps.gov/liho
Lincoln Home - Springfield
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A new location for us to visit was the Lincoln Memorial Garden and Nature Center, on the south edge of Lake Springfield. This is a free park established to commemorate A. Lincoln, managed as a private foundation. There are a number of letterboxes planted there with permission of the management. The trails are well marked and maintained and take you through a variety of ecosystems. Along the way are numerous park benches with quotes made by Lincoln. What a delight to walk through the woods and prairie and read his quotes.
www.lincolnmemorialgarden.org
No shortage of Canada Geese - in the near future
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By noon it was too hot to enjoy even a walk in the woods. We needed to be in southern Illinois to visit family that evening. We were able to add a bit more of US 50 to our driving route on our way south.
Tuesday, June 9
Start: Albion, IL
Finish: Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore campground (NPS), near Porter, IN
Early start for us to drive into the Chicago area. Since our visit to the MidWest last fall a new unit of the National Park Service has been added, Pullman National Monument. This site has been well-preserved by the local community for many years and they lobbied hard to become part of NPS. This site has a lot of American history, George Pullman designed and built the Pullman railway cars here in the 1880s and built a community for his workers and their families, including providing public education. This site also has a strong labor movement history, including considered to be the 'birth' of Labor Day. Lots of work needs to be done to open buildings and interpret its history, however a visit now is well worthwhile. What is presented in the current visitor center and the buildings in the neighborhood is interesting.
www.nps.gov/pull
Pullman National Monument area - private homes
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Inside the visitor center
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We ended the day by driving a short distance to Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore and getting a campsite. The past week has been hot and too many motels! It was almost too warm to camp, but we were determined to enjoy an evening in camp. A nice breeze made the temperature comfortable.
www.nps.gov/indu
Passport Stamps
Abraham Lincoln NHA - Lincoln Home NHS
Lincoln Home NHS - Springfield, IL
Underground RR Freedom Network - Lincoln Home NHS
Pullman National Monument - Chicago, IL
Pullman National Monument - Historic Pullman Foundation
Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore - Porter, IN
Bonus
Lincoln Funeral Train 150th Anniversary - 1865-2015
Lincoln Home NHS - Springfield, IL
Wildlife Sightings
Eastern Fox Squirrel
Ground squirrel
American Robin
Blue Jay
Northern Cardinal
Northern Mockingbird
Great Blue Heron
Red-winged Blackbird
Turkey Vulture
Red-headed Woodpecker
Red-bellied Woodpecker
Brewer's Blackbird
American Crow
House Sparrow
Mourning Dove
Common Grackle
Ruby-throated Hummingbird
Eastern Phoebe
Heading West - Wisconsin, Minnesota, Iowa and into Nebraska
Tuesday, June 16
Start: Clam Lake, WI
Finish: St. Croix Bluffs Park, near Hastings, MN
A travel day as we start to make our way home. The first stop of the day was in Hayward, WI for another Peter sculpture. The information I had was it was located at the Carnegie Library in town. When we got there we found the building had been converted into a retail business and you could see the concrete base where the Whispering Giant had been locating. With a bit of quick research we found it had been moved to the new library location on the outskirts of town.
Whispering Giant # 26 - tribute to Ojibwe
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Continuing across WI 77 we came to Trego and the first of several visitor centers for the St. Croix National Scenic River, one of the eight original scenic rivers designated in 1968. The first site is along the Namekagon River, which flows into the St. Croix. Besides watching the film we hiked along the river on the nature trail, enjoying 65 degrees! We didn't see, but from the film I learned there were a number of wolf packs along the rivers; to me that defines preservation!
I picked up the Junior Ranger Activity booklet and worked on it as we made our way along the river to the main visitor center in St. Croix Falls, WI. The underwater photographs on display were spectacular. They were taken by a group of youths last summer. Further down the river we visited the last visitor center associated with the St. Croix River and the fist for the Mississippi National River and Recreation Area i. The quaint town of Prescott, WI. This is at the confluence of the two rivers. We ended the day at a very nice county park on the Minnesota side of the St. Croix River.
Wednesday, June 17
Start: Saint Croix Bluffs Regional Park
Finish: Briggs Woods County Park, Webster City, IA
Heavy rain had been predicted overnight so we had carefully picked a campsite with no overhanging trees. Happily the rain was light and never lasted very long. We went i to Hastings for breakfast and had a large and tasty meal at The Point restaurant, highly recommended if you are in the area. It tis at the intersection of US 10 & US 61.
We drove into St. Paul to the Mississippi National River and Recreation Area main visitor center, which is in the lobby of the Science Museum of Minnesota. It was obvious that school was out. The actual NPS area was quiet and we had a nice conversation with the ranger on duty. He had questions about the Central and Northern Arizona park sites, he wanted to get away from the cold Minnesota winters. We walked through downtown St. Paul to the park headquarters for some other passport stamps and had another nice conversation about Arizona, this rime about his childhood memories of visiting family.
Overlooking the Mississippi River in St. Paul
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We then stopped at Fort Snelling and the Minnesota Valley National Wildlife Refuge. The visitor center at the refuge is very nice with displays. We spent some time watching the birds at the feeders.
We continued south on I-35 into Iowa, driving through some strong storms. Luckily none lasted very long and none produced hail. We left I-35 and headed east to Mason City, IA for a letterbox. Then continued south in US 65 to Iowa Falls to see another Whispering Giant along the banks of the Iowa River. No picture, it was pouring rain again. Just south of Iowa Falls we picked up US 20 to head west across Iowa and Nebraska. We so enjoyed US 50 heading east we thought we would follow another route back east, avoiding the interstate. We ended the night in Webster City at a very nice county park. Most of the city/county parks we have stayed at on this trip have had free WiFi, an unexpected perk along the way. A bit warm and muggy when we arrived, but it cooled off nicely.
Thursday, June 18
Start: Webster City, IA
Finish: Ainsworth City Park, NE
Our first stop of the day was in Fort Dodge for a letterbox in a coffee house; fresh cinnamon rolls and scones! Before leaving town we found another letterbox in an old cemetery with some great stones and monuments. In the MidWest there are a lot of letterboxes placed in cemeteries, not as much public land as out west in which to plant. Most are paced in bushes or in the woods on the edge, respectful of graves. We always find the names, inscriptions and stones interesting.
In Sioux City we stopped at the two sites commemorating the Lewis & Clark expedition. They city's visitor center is in an old river boat. Once inside you can tour the boat, as well as get information and a passport stamp for the Lewis & Clark National Historic Trail (NHT). In the same park, a bit further south is a modern building - Sioux City Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center. There are large sculptures of Lewis, Clark & their dog, Seaman, plus animals present during their expedition outside the center. Inside the displays give information about the trip, it focuses on the only death of a member of the expedition; a fact that always amazes me considering the length of the trip and all that they encountered. Sgt. Floyd died of appendicitis and is buried up on a hill, today a very large monument can be seen from I-29.
Sioux City, IA
Riverboat - Visitor Center
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Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center
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From here we deviated off of US 20 until later in the day to visit two sites associated with the Missouri National Recreation River, near Yankton, SD. After a visit to their headquarters in town and then over into Nebraska to the Gavins Point Dam we continued south on NE 121 before picking up US 20 near Osborn. There are a variety of displays at the visitor center at the dam, from natural history to energy. The predator fish was amazing. My 6 ft. tall husband is reflected in the glass for scale.
Predator Fish (Xiphactinus audax, lived 70 - 166 million years ago)
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We finished the day in Ainsworth, camping at their city park. Not much to say, but a flat spot away form the highway, with an electrical hook up.
Passport Stamps
St. Croix NSR
-Namekagon River
-St. Croix Falls, WI
-Prescott, WI
Ice Age National Scenic Trail
St. Croix Falls, WI
Wisconsin
Ice Age National Scientific Reserve - St. Croix Falls, WI
Mississippi National River & Recreation Area
-Prescott, WI
St. Paul, MN
Coldwater Spring, MN
Empire Builder
Fort Snelling, MN
Mississippi NRRA -25th Anniversary
Lewis & Clark NHT
-Sioux City, IA
-Sioux City Lewis & Clark Center
Lewis & Clark National Historic Site - Sioux City, IA (Sgt. Floyd's burial site)
Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail SD-NE
Missouri National Recreational River SD-NE
Bonus stamps
Wisconsin State Parks - 100 Years - Interstate
Minnesota Valley National Wildlife Refuge (Blue Goose)
Pawprint - Seaman - dog with Lewis & Clark
Wildlife Sightings
Whit-tailed Deer
Cottontail Rabbit
Gray squirrel
Least Chipmunk
Canada Goose
Turkey Vulture
Common Raven
American Crow
Common Grackle
Great-tailed Grackle
Northern Cardinal
American Robin
Hawk, ? (hovering over roadside)
Brewer's Blackbird
Red-winged Blackbird
Red-bellied Woodpecker
Baltimore Oriole
Ruby- throated Hummingbird
Great Blue Heron
Mourning Dove
Rock Pigeon
Killdeer
Red-tailed Hawk
Kestrel
Barn Swallow
Back West - Wyoming, Colorado & New Mexico
Friday, June 19
Start: Ainsworth, NE
Finish: Cheyenne, WY
The city park campground, at $10 with electric, worked just fine for a good night's sleep. The campground app had listed more amenities, such as showers, than were present, but $10 no complaints.
Eventually we drove through the Sandhills of Nebraska while on US 20. The natural grasslands and rolling hills make this area a pretty drive. Right before entering Valentine, NE you cross the Niobrara River, which has been designated a National Scenic River. NE 12, to the north follows the river for another pretty drive (we did that 2 years ago). A quick stop in the NPS office in Valentine and we continued west on 20. After entering Wyoming we turned south at Lusk onto US 85.
Shortly after entering Wyoming we began seeing Pronghorn, lots of them. Besides the lone males in the fields we were seeing groups of females with young ones.
It was getting hot. We stopped at Ft. Laramie and in Guernsey for passport stamps and letterboxing, it was 97 degrees. Cooler than the 110 degrees back in Tucson. We ended the day along I-25 in Cheyenne at Motel 6. Our first 400 plus mile day.
Saturday, June 20
Start: Cheyenne, WY
Finish: Pueblo, CO
Not ready to give up on vacation mode we stayed around Cheyenne in the morning to letterbox, then headed south into Colorado. Before leaving Wyoming we stopped at the welcome center at exit 4, built in 2013. This is well worth a stop. Inside is a mini-museum representing Wyoming. The museum part is not open 24/7, the restrooms are.
Wyoming Welcome Center, Exit 4 on I-25
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We then stopped at the welcome center at Fort Collins for the Cache la Poudre River Corridor heritage passport stamp. This river comes out of Wyoming, near Laramie and runs along the top of colorado, CO 14, into the Fort Collins area. We have stayed in this area several times and consider it one of our favorite places to spend time. Anyone traveling in the area should driving along the river. We always see moose in this area, usually a cow with calf. You can get over to Steamboat Springs along this route. We did cross over the river as we headed south, no time for a visit on this trip. The rivers are running at or above flood stage along the front range of the Rockies, the higher than normal temperatures are causing rapid snow melt.
Our next stop was in Loveland for lunch and another Whispering Giant. We were surprised when we found it along US 34, west of Loveland, to realize we have driven past it many times when we have entered Rocky Mountain National Park along this route. Neither of us ever remembering seeing it or commenting on the statue. Goes to show how even seasoned travelers can see something new along a familiar route. The setting for this one is much different from the others we have seen, just sitting out in a field.
Whispering Giant # 31 - Redman, Loveland, CO
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The rest of the day was a 'worst travel day', for this trip and many others. Along I-25 from Loveland, all the way past Colorado Springs, it was stop, stop and go slow. Except for one accident the highway 'sloth' was never evident. We were going through Denver well after the baseball game started, and 98% of the cars were from Colorado. We've heard from some family members that this is typical. Travelers coming this way - beware and I hope your travel through this area is smoother.
We had hoped to cover more miles today, but by Pueblo we were done! The state park campgrounds were all full so we found an adequate private campground for the night.
Sunday, June 21
Start: Pueblo, CO
Finish: Gallup, NM
We have decided to call I-25 through WY, CO and northern NM the Pronghorn Highway. Almost immediately when we entered WY we began seeing the Pronghorn, or as we call them "white butts", as that is the easiest way to pick them out while speeding along. We continued to see them in rural areas along the interstate, one way to entertain us along our travels. Today was a perfect example why interstates are so important, when needed you can cover a lot of territory. We needed to cover 480 miles to be in Gallup at the end of the day. For those that have followed this trip and others I have written about, that is a big day for us. Luckily it was all interstate and we made it to Gallup by 6 PM.
It has been getting hotter and hotter, it was 104 degrees in Albuquerque as we traveled through. Even at these temperatures it was more comfortable than being in the mid 80s with higher humidity, which we experienced earlier in the trip in the MidWest. Give me dry heat any day!
We made a few stops along the way for passport stamps and a couple of letterboxes. These stops were a good reason to get out of the car and stretch our legs. In Grants we stopped at the Northwestern New Mexico visitor center, an interagency visitor center representing the NPS, USFS and BLM. Besides having passport stamps, a nice bookstore, helpful staff they have a great display of things to,see and do in the area; a very big area. They provided sections in the display area of suggested road tours. Lots of useful touring information and well presented.
http://www.nps.gov/elma/planyourvisi...torcenters.htm
Grants, NM - Northwestern New Mexico interagency visitor center displays
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Before checking into our motel we stopped in downtown Gallup for a meal at the Coal Street Pub, some craft beers on tap and a menu with lots of variety. The food was good. They offer a 5% discount if you pay cash.
Passport Stamps
Niobrara National Scenic River - Nebraska
Pony Express Nat'l Historic Trail - MO, KS, NE, CO, WY, UT, NV, CA, OR
Mormon Pioneer Nat'l Historic Trail - IL, IA, NE, WY, UT
California Nat'l Historic Trail - MO, KS, NE, CO, WY, UT, NV, CA, OR
Oregon Nat'l Historic Trail - MO, KS, NE, WY, ID, OR, WA
Fort Laramie National Historic Site - Fort Laramie, WY
Cache la Poudre River Corridor - Northern Colorado
Santa Fe NHT - Pecos NHP, NM
Pecos NHP - Civil War Battle of Glorirta Pass
Pecos NHP - Pecos, NM
Pecos NHP - Route 66 pre-1937
Petroglyph National Monument - Albuquerque, NM
El Malpais National Monument - Grants, NM
El Malpais NM - NW New Mexico Visitor Center
Bonus
Fort Laramie National Historic Site - building pictorial -Old Bedlam
Northern Rio Grande Heritage Area
El Malpais National Monument, dayed - iconic from NPTC
Wildlife Sightings
Pronghorn with young
Cottontail Rabbit
Black-tailed Prairie Dog
Western Kingbird
Mourning Dove
American Robin
Brewer's Blackbird
Red-winged Blackbird
Yellow-headed Blackbird
Killdeer
Northern Harrier
Red-tailed Hawk
Western Meadowlark
Lark Bunting
Canada Goose
Black-crowned Night Heron
Great Blue Heron
Black-billed Magpie
White Pelican
Herring Gull
Starling
Northern Mockingbird
Gambel's Quail
Common Raven
Ft. Laramie is local turf for me
Lots of (my) family ranches surround Fort Laramie. I wish I had known you'd be going this way, you could have enjoyed some local hospitality.
Enjoying the report
Great Lakes Trip Statistics
A few statistics from our Great Lakes trip:
-The trip lasted 29 days, covered 7,165 miles through 13 states, for an average of 247 miles. I was surprised by our daily miles.
-I found 110 letterboxes, planted 3 new ones and attended a Letterboxing gathering.
-We saw 4 of Peter Wolf Toth's Whispering Giant creations.
-We saw all the license plates of the USA, except Rhode Island, Delaware and Hawaii.
-Completed 8 activities towards QuestScouts activity badges
-Visited 23 National Park Service sites, plus USFS and BLM sites and Historic Trails.
-Completed 1 Junior Ranger program
Budget
This trip was a bit different. While in Kansas my husband became ill and was hospitalized for 4 days. The care he received at Hutchinson Regional Medical Center was excellent. After discharge he had no further problems on the trip. How this affected our budget is it added at least 4 motel nights to our expenses. The Econo Lodge in Hutchinson worked with me and provided an excellent rate. We prefer to camp and besides the time in Kansas we spent more nights in motels, mainly because of hot and humid weather and at least one other night due to a strong storm. Considering the weather going through the MidWest right now, we did OK concerning the overall weather. Another cost factor is there were less federal campgrounds for us to use, with my husband's Golden Age pass we pay half the fee. This helped our expenses on our Spring trip in California where many more federal campsites are available.
Lodging - 29%. Previous three trips were at 18%
Meals - 33%
Gas- 37%
Misc - 1% (ice, showers)
Our average daily cost was $92.54, as compared to $71.03 for our Spring trip through California. Our meal cost is probably an area that could be reduced, but we chose to enjoy meals along the way. I calculated that we prepared 50% of our meals.
Gas prices ranged from $2.39 in Tucson to $2.77 in Muskegon, MI, with an approximate average of $2.65.
Saw some amazing animals along the way, some birds we had never seen before. We often have to look up facts and confirm identification, as well as correct names. Keeping the list is something we enjoy and keeps us learning.
Flowers seen along the way
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I hope something I reported along the way will be a help to your plans.
Happy Trails!