Southwest Dave's Southwest trip. [UK version]

I thought I would awake this sleepy corner of RTA once more.

Recently we took a little trip to one of our favourite spots in the UK, coastal Somerset and parts of Devon. This area is classed as the start of the Southwest region, although to get there from the south coast of England, we first have to head Northwest. So we have packed and chosen our choice of road trip vehicle from a possible four. [Well the wife has a handbag collection lol] We decide on the VW passat V6 syncro, smooth, powerful and 4WD, ideal for those hills we will encounter !

July 6 2011.

We leave home at 6am before the traffic builds at various points along the way, namely, Chichester, the M27 around Portsmouth, Southampton and on the A36 into Salisbury. [Home of the famous cathedral]. Once we are the other side of Salisbury it is open road and we soon stop on the A303 west at one of our favorite roadside Cafe vans. [If they are popular and busy with truckers, they are gonna be good.] We continue on the 303 until we take a short cut through Langport and cross over the M5 into Bridgewater. This is where the holiday begins for me, as we cross the M5 it is the last time we will see a motorway, or be near one, until the return journey home. It's country roads all the way now !!

We arrive at the campground located at St Audries bay near to Watchet harbour at around 9.30am, covering 165 miles in 3.5 hours from when we left home. We always use the same place when in this area and have gained many friends over the years. It's a 'little slice of heaven,' hidden away in a secluded bay with only one lane in and out. So it's time to set up camp. Get the trailer level, pull it open, put in small joining bar and then pull open like a pram canopy, peg down and hey presto !

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Those eagle eyed amongst you will notice there is no tow bar on the vehicle. We actually leave our trailer tent here with the owners to store.

After we set up it's time to head out for supplies in the town of Minehead.

[Throughout the report, I will use some photos' from previous trips to depict where we went this time. At times I had no camera [because I have so many pics of certain areas, and at other times the library photo is better ! [Got to do the place justice].

July 6 cont.......

We enjoy the views of the Quantock hills and coast as we make our way along the country lanes to Minehead and after stocking up, we decide to take a drive out of town and up the steep twisty road to North hill to enjoy more coastal views from Selworthy beacon. These are just one of a few reasons why we come back time after time, it's a breath of fresh air !

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We return to the campground and light up the BBQ before wandering down to the 'Stable bar' to meet with old friends and have a beer . [Or two !]. On the way we are treated to a lovely sunset over the Bristol channel.

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July 7th

This morning is a little overcast and we spend some time wandering around the very scenic farmland on which the campsite is based. Originally it was an old Somerset working farm, sheltered by The 'rolling' Quantock hills and set atop a cliff overlooking the Bristol channel to the South coast of Wales with a [not sandy] secluded beach below. What is now the 'Stable bar' used to be the milking sheds from where they use to deliver milk to neighbouring villages. After a stroll high up on the hill and back down past the duck ponds we had lunch back at the tent before deciding what to do next.

This afternoon we head for the old Yarn market town of Dunster, the gateway to Exmoor NP. With it's castle towering high on the hill above the wonderful old cottages, Inns, churches, gardens and Nunnery, plus the 15th century 'Gallox bridge' over the river, making this a popular attraction. Steeped in history the town is listed in the Domesday book and dated back as early as 1086. The 17th century Yarn market was an important centre for the local wool trade

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Time to head back for an evening meal and to the bar for some more beer, eerrr..., I mean to find some more familiar faces.

Dave,

I'm enjoying the field reports and hope that one day soon, I'll be able to see some of these places in person. ("Soon" being rather a vague and undetermined period of time...)

Mark

Mark.

Take away it's [very] unpredictable weather and high living costs and the UK really is a wonderful place for any visitor. Having travelled almost every part of the UK, I am always happy to offer tips to any visitors from overseas.

Dave.

July 8

This morning we get a call from friends who are weekend camping in Cheddar Gorge [famous for it's caves and another place we love to visit] so we decide to meet up in Wells. Wells is the smallest city in England and the only one in Somerset. Although it means a drive back over the M5 to get there, I am more than happy to do so and once again visit one of Englands finest buildings, Wells cathedral. It's a remarkble little City set in countryside at the southern end of the Mendip hills where they meet the Somerset levels.

We meet with our friends for lunch and then take a walk around the City. First stop is at the Bishops palace, home to the Bishop's of Bath and Wells for over 800 years. Visitors can explore parts of the Bishops palace including the large gardens that contains the springs that gave the city it's name. Surrounded by a moat that contains 4 million gallons of water supplied from St Andrews spring, you can cross the bridge at the gatehouse that dates from 1341. If you here a bell ring, it will be one of the swans pulling on the cord to demand food !

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Next up we walk through the Arch and there it is, Wells cathedral in all it's glory. With the large grrass area at the front and no roads with heavy traffic nearby, it really is an imposing site when you step back and tak it all in.

The west front with it's 300 statues set among the pillars was completed around 1250 and the cathedral clock is the second oldest in England and third oldest in the world. The appointed 'clock keeper' was responsible for winding the clock by hand and the last of these keepers retired in 2010 and was replaced with an electric motor, ending the 630 years of winding by hand. The clock has another 'face' inside the cathedral which is quite fascinating. The architecture inside is unbelievably wonderful as well, a true gem that in my opinion competes at the highest level of buildings in London and Paris that I have witnessed when all is considered.

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We await the knights of the clock to ring the bell with their hammers on the quarter hour to the sound of violins, trumpet and base in the background that is coming from the Wells cathedral music school. The school was founded in 909. We continue our wander under Vicars Arch to Vicars close, claimed to be the oldest and intact residential street in Europe.

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We say our goodbyes and make our way back to the campground, but first a quick stop in Glastonbury.

OR

The love of field and coppice,
Of green and shaded lanes.
Of ordered woods and gardens
Is running in your veins.
(from the 1st verse of Dorothea MacKellar's 'My Country'.)

Been watching Escape to the Country, 2008 season, to see if any of the places you mention come up. Not recognised any of them so far. Great trip, love reading it. But why are your pictures so little?'

Lifey

Thanks Lifey, nice poem by the way.

The new tool bar lets you upload direct from the computer as an attachment. You can click on them for a slightly bigger version. I have been having some issues displaying them the 'old fashion way,' but that's another story.

July 8th

Glastonbury attracts visitors from all over Europe, [and beyond no doubt] mainly for it's Mythology and it's connections to Avalon, King Arthur and the Holy Grail, plus the Glastonbury festival as everyone refers to it from out of town. Those that live there regard it as the 'Pilton' festival, as that is where it takes place on a farm a few miles from town. The festival draws tens of thousands of people to the town as well as many famous artists who perform there. Shop keepers like to brag of who they have supplied their wares too !

The remains of Glastonbury Abbey are claimed to be that of the oldest christian church in the world. It was the monk's of the Abbey who supposedly discovered King Arthur and Guinevere's remains in 1191, under a large Tablet enscribed ''Here lies buried the renowned King Arthur in the Isle of Avalon'. The monk's were reportedly desperate for funds at the time and 'Arthur' fever was sweeping the country, I will leave you to work that out.

We wander around the shops looking at all the Crystal emporiums, the herbal and crystal remedies, book shops that are stocked with books to heal just about anything, for casting spells and stories of the Isle of Avalon, King Arthur and the Holy Grail. A lot of the shops are run by witches or Pixies [pointy ears included] and the scents from candles and joss sticks are quite over powering !! The town is overun with 'new age' travellers, Hippies from a bygone era, Druids and 'witches' roam the streets. They have been drawn here for it's links to 'Leylines' and high energy fields associated with the town. In case you think I have gone mad, no it's not something I believe in, but it's a great town for 'people watching' and the atmosphere is vibrant.

High up on the hill is Glastonbury Tor and the remains of a church tower that has been linked with the Isle of Avalon where below is the 'Chalice well' that has reportedly been flowing for 65 million years and formed the land around it. After a cup of tea and a nice walk we make our way back to the tent along the A39.

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July 9th]

Today we took a small circular tour through the Brendon hills to Wimbleball lake to Exebridge and back up through the Exe valley to Wheddon cross and to Exmoor over Dunkery beacon, the moors highest point.

First we visit the local town of Watchet harbour to get some supplies for the day. Watchet has connections to the poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge, who's famous poem 'The Ancient Mariner' was inspired by his visit to these parts. The famous verse; "The fair breeze blew, the white foam flew, The furrow followed free; " is written on one of the boat sheds. On the small promenade, a statue of the Ancient Mariner, complete with Albatross has been erected. Watchet also has a train station on the West Somerset railway line which is the longest heritage line in the country. As you walk along the prom you can here the whistle and 'chuff' of the train, before the steam engine comes into view on the hill above you.

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We leave town and head south to Raleighs cross and to Wimbleball lake where we have a stroll around this tranquil place nestled on the edge of Exmoor. The blue waters against the back drop of rolling green hills while the fisherman sit patiently in their boat for a Trout to oblige makes a wonderful setting. We continue our journey south towards Exebridge before heading north through the lovely Exe valley and alongside the northern section of the river Exe. This road is an absolute beauty to drive with narrow twisty sections, dips and crests and long sweeping bends through wonderful scenery, it never fails to put a smile on my face !

As we arrive at Wheddon cross we detour over the highest point on Exmoor, Dunkery beacon and stop to take in the wonderful views of the moors and sea views and have a walk before continuing down into the village of Luccombe. As we descend to the A39 we head to the wonderful village of Selworthy green. This is the epitomy of an English village with it's quaint thatched roofed cottages and wonderful church with expansive views over the countryside. The village green cottages belong to the Holnicote estate and are all painted yellow.

It's time to make our way back to the campground for an evening meal and yet another visit to the bar !

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July 10

Today we head west on the A39 to Lynton and Lynmouth, twin towns where one is a small rural town high up on the cliff above and the other, Lynmouth is a harbour village down below. The two are 'joined' by the famous Victorian Cliff railway built in 1890 which operates using cables and water to counter balance the two carriages.

First though we have to tackle Porlock Hill, a famous section of road with very steep and tight hairpin turns that climbs some 1300ft in under 2 miles distance. At the bottom of the hill is the town of Porlock where, I can only presume, the Local's have got used to the smell of burnt out brakes and hot clutches as cars drive through after the decsent. The 4WD and V6 engine makes light work of going up the hill of which I have driven many times. Once we are up and over the top we are treated to more incredible views of the moors and stunning coastline. At this point we take a detour off the main road and down some narrow countryside lanes through Malmsmead and Oare surrounded by lush, rolling green hills beside streams and the sound of babbling brooks to Lorna Doone valley. The local lanes, as mentioned earlier, are very narrow as are the bridges which are to narrow for some vehicles to use. This gives you the choice of 'bridge or river' to continue your journey beyond the river, and I usually choose the narrow strip of concrete that the water runs over to cross, because.... well just because !

From here we continue towards Lynton and Lynmouth via Brendon to Watersmeet, a National trust area of outstanding natural beauty. Here we stop for refreshments and sit for a while watching the small waterfall and the power of the river carving it's way through rocks and tree branches, that have made their way down the river after winter storms and got trapped by the rocks.

From here we walk the 2 miles alongside the river to Lynmouth, which in 1952 was victim to the 'Great flood' caused by heavy rains flowing off the surrounding hills that created a forty foot wall of water to charge into town along the East and West Lyn rivers and wash away bridges and buildings and claim the lives of 34 souls. The Memorial hall stands in the middle of the town as a tribute and reminder of this tragedy.

We look around the harbour town shops and make our way to the Cliff railway to venture 'up top' and continue our walk to the 'Valley of the Rocks', a truly awe inspiring place where the moorland plunges hundreds of feet to the sea. With a narrow footpath clinging to the side of the cliff, it is a wonderful walk, although not for those with a fear of heights ! It doesn't appear to have any affect on the goats that cling to the side at impossible angles to get the greenest of green grass ! Having taken the 'lazy way up' via the railway, we walk back down the extremely steep path admiring the views. Houses clinging to the cliff top are just a few yards away, yet we are level with there roof tops and chimneys, that's how steep it is !

A walk back along the river and up out of the steep gorge to the car where we drive back to the A39 at Lynmouth and up the long steep gradient of Countisbury hill and back to the campsite, a long exhausting day but very rewarding.

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