RoadTrip Australia: June 2011 -- South Australia

Forum Administrator's Note:

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Normally, all of the road trips that are discussed and posted on this forum, occur in North America... But Lifey is a long-term member and a RTA RoadTrip Advisor and so we are hosting her road trip field reports from a road trip that she is currently on in southern Australia... Enjoy the journey with us!

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Over half a century of traveling, we have crisscrossed the State of Victoria, every which way. So today the plan was, to just head to the border, and start enjoying South Australia, a State of which I have not seen a great deal.

But we all know what happens to plans......

I had not gone 50kms and there was the exit to Mt Macedon, and the memories came flooding back. Memories of the 60s and 70s, when with my mother-in-law, we would go visit the spectacular gardens of the grand homes on that great mountain, just north of Melbourne. I reminisced also over the picnics we would have there in some of the beautiful parks. Mt Macedon stands out with a huge cross on the top, visible for miles. We used to walk up to it. We took our children there. But thinking of Mt Macedon, one cannot avoid thinking of Ash Wednesday 1983, the day so many died and so much of the State was dessimated. (At that time the worst ever, 2009 exceeded it threefold.) On that day most of those grand homes were destroyed, as were so many of their gardens.

Also part of the Macedon Ranges is Hanging Rock, the next exit along the Calder (A79). Like Mt Macedon, it is a very popular day trip from the city. Probably best known from the novel, Picnic at Hanging Rock, and as the location of the film by the same name. However, to me Hanging Rock bears a much different significance. It was where we took the children to experience the Total Eclipse of the Sun. Well away from any source of artificial light, it was an experience they have never forgotten. Cannot remember, nor can I find it on the internet, as to which year it was, but I recall they were all quite young.... so probably 1980 or 81 (??).

And not all that much further on came the exit to Malmsbury, a beautiful little historic town with some magnificent blue stone buildings... and an even grander bluestone railway bridge. We once hiked to the base of it - ye can't drive there - and took ever so many photos. They just don't make them like that anymore.

This was starting to be a nostalgia journey, and that was only the first hour!

The freeway on which I was driving by-passes many of the small towns we used to pass through in those days. So when I got to the exit to Harcourt, I could not help thinking of the fresh, crisp, juicy apples we used to buy at the roadside stall. Harcourt is the heart of apple country in central Victoria, and there is no end to the many apple related products available there. Alas, the road no longer goes through Harcourt, and I was left wondering how the orchadists, who so heavily depended on the passing trade, are faring now.

By the time I got to Bendigo the freeway had long since ended, and it was two lanes the rest of the way, right through the centre of all the small towns.

Around half way to Mildura I came to the areas which had been, and still are, affected by the floods of earlier this year. It was clear that many are not happy with the insurance companies. Large posters were nailed to roadside trees, expressing their feelings.

And then it was Wycheproof! I had never been to Wycheproof before... and was quite surprised. Here, in this relatively small town, the train runs straight down the middle of the main street. This is not a light rail, this is the main trainline for all freight, wheat, etc. I have never seen anything like it. There was no fence, just a strip of grass and plants either side of the single track.

My mechanic had told me what a 'boring' trip the drive to Mildura is. I can't wait to tell him how excited I was by all I saw... grain stored in huge underground bunkers; magnificent eucalypts lining the road; gently undulating farm land as far as the eye could see; and often I was the only vehicle on the road to enjoy this wonderland.

But of course, it did not all go smootly. Before I got to Mildura I realised I had left my map of South Australia - with all my notations on it - at home. Valuable time was lost in Mildura finding the RACV office to purchase another. I had already decided to push on to Renmark, rather than stay in Mildura. However, now that we are approaching the shortest day, the sun had set before I got to Renmark, and I had not booked anything.

Now I know why some get so paranoid about booking things ahead. In this country, when you get outside the capital cities, accommodation is nowhere near as prolific or cheap as it is in the US. Did eventually find an affordable motel, but if I could not have, it would have been quite a way to the next place.

Lifey

Yes, it's a great read ! Knowing that planning your trips in detail prior to leaving is against your natural instincts, I had to chuckle when those plans went out the window almost immediately. Well at least the ones that were not left at home LOL !

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My mechanic had told me what a 'boring' trip the drive to Mildura is

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I hope you told your mechanic that if he graces the pages of RTA, the 'B' word is banned. ;-)

Looking forward to more updates.

No readily available internet in Coober Pedy. Have just managed to get 30 mins at the Visitor Information Centre. So much to tell, so little time. I am writing it all up by hand (a pain) so that I can post when I get extended internet access again, but it may be a few days.

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... those plans went out the window almost immediately.

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Yup Dave, and even more plans have gone out the window. I covered 966 kms yesterday, was on the road from 8am to 8pm, with a few stops scattered throughout the day. Am now off to see when I can get a flight over Lake Eyre, which after all, is the purpose of this trip.

Lifey happy and well in Coober Pedy

iPhone, iPad and Droid devices are the next big thing we'll add to this forum. If you have one of these devices, soon, very soon, (or not depending on the usual issues) you'll be able to update your forum posts from your phone on the road.

Mark

Mark,

In central Australia, that won't help. I discovered that people there use three ways to communicate - Landline, CB, and face to face. The locals contact their neighbours by CB.

When asked for contact details, most of us put down our mobile. Not where I was, they give their channel. I don't think I saw a mobile phone on any of the locals. There is no other coverage than Telstra landlines. It is just too remote and too sparsely populated.

Lifey who had internet withdrawal

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it will live on somewhere else.

2nd June
It was 8am, and I was ready to leave Paringa - across the river from Renmark. But before doing so, I figured I would call and book a bed in Cooper Pedy.

Did I say that??

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The Historic Bridge across the Murray river at this point, is a single lane in each direction, and still opens for craft to go up and down the river. Mainly paddlesteamers with tourist aboard, these days. But in the early days, this was a main trading route.

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When I look at the river which this bridge spans, I think of the Mississippi. The Murray, our mightiest river, is a mere trickle in comparison. I have often thought, if you were to take all the permanent waterways in Australia, and put them together they would not equal the volume of water which runs down that great river from MN to New Orleans.

Chose not to follow the route computer mapping and my gps wanted me to go, but followed my map instead - through Morgan and onto Burra. From there I planned to go through Crystal Brook to Port Pirie, at which point I would once again pick up a main highway - albeit a single lane highway.

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It was about 25kms west of Morgan that I came across Boot Hill. I had been thinking of how much the surrounding countryside resembled northwestern Nevada, that corner up there, north and west of Winnemucca. And then to stumbled upon an icon (top) similar to the one Nevada lost, not all that long ago.

I spent far too long there!

Burra is another of these historic towns, with most of the buildings made from local stone.

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A designated heritage town, and for good reason. It was good to spend a little time driving around and seeing the sights. (Mr Google and Mr gps would have denied me this pleasure.)

Gave my Outback a well deserved drink in Burra, and learned that Coober Pedy was still 702 kms. By now it was 11am At my steady pace of 100kph (the speed limit is 110), it was going to be a long day. Decisions had to be made.

From Burra to Coober Pedy.... it broke my heart.... I did not stop to admire or photograph another sight or attraction. And I cranked the speed up to (almost) the speed limit. This resulted in my fuel consumption going from 9.2 to 9.4l/100km. (I love this feature in my Outback.)

By the time I got to Port Augusta I needed a break. All the heavy transport on the road was taking the enjoyment out of this drive. Here we do not have 18 wheelers, like in the US. Semi trailers typically have 22 wheels. But these trucks had 42, and then there was the ocassional one with 62 wheels. (I counted them while waiting at a traffic light.) Chose to take the meal I bought to the Native Botanical Gardens, just north of the town, and relaxed there in the midst of a great variety of native plants.

Coober Pedy was now 525 kms up the road, and only one more settlement between me and there. So, satisfied after a good break and a hearty meal, a bottle of water and having filled the tank once more, I set off on what to me, was going to be the most interesting of all highways... the Stuart Highway, the highway into the Outback (land that is, not the car).

Nothing I read or researched indicated that there was anything more to see in this last stretch, other than black asphalt and desert. Even folk to whom I spoke, who had done this trek, said just to head straight for Coober Pedy. Yet, all the way along the highway there were pull-offs with camera indications. And I had to pass by all of them, for lack of time. Just as there had not been any indication that fuel was available anywhere other than at Woomera and my final destination. Yet I was able to fill up at Glendambo, some 113 kms further on from Woomera where I had forgotten to fill up. Not only that, but they had accommodation. The sun was close to setting, and I was regretting having booked in Coober Pedy.

There are several rest areas along this last stretch, none of which are marked on maps. But then, rest areas are nothing like what most of you will have pictured in your mind's eye. Rest areas here are a large cleared area by the side of the road, unpaved and always has a 44 gallon drum for rubbish. Ocassionally they will have a (note! a!) table and seats, concreted into the ground. And even more rarely will they have a small wooden outhouse, longdrop toilet. But that is rare indeed! Lake Hart rest area is one of these.

Furthermore, there is no restriction on spending the night at any of these places. As it was quite late, I noticed that all of the rest areas had some caravans, campers and tents already in them, but the one at Lake Hart had more than two dozen. It was like a little city.

Eventually found the place where I had booked a room. Like most of Coober Pedy, it is underground - actually in an old mine. Underground means walking into the side of a mound, and slightly down. The website said they have underground rooms and camping - there were lots of tents. Other facilities listed on the internet wereTV and Internet, as well as a camp kitchen. I should by now know that you do not believe all you read. I had paid for two nights, and next morning went in to get the second night's money refunded.

For a person who will not go into caves, the whole atmosphere was claustrophobic. It was hot. And the room had a bed and a light. No power, not even a mirror. It was a long walk to the bathrooms, which were above ground. There was no external light anywhere, and the internet had been broken for 'months'. The so called camp kitchen was a single ring gas burner and BBQ. Not even a fridge!

Despite their warnings of dire consequences, I cooked in my room (my Trangia always comes with me wherever I go), and I left my phone on charge in the bathroom - the only place with power outlets.

Lifey

3rd June
A relaxing day. After having got my money back for the accommodation there was a visit to the visitor centre, to book the flight over the Lake, find new accommodation.... and use their free internet.

At the Oasis Caravan Park I was able to get a single room cabin, right next to the amenities block, which included a very well equipped camp kitchen. And it was a lot cheaper!

The rest of the day I spent touring around the many local attractions,

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including the Serbian Orthodox Church and

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the Catholic Church - both underground.

Most of the people live in what they call 'dug-outs', the underground homes. Most are not actually below street level, they are just dug out of the sides of the rocky hills. The town is only a half a dozen or so, streets long and wide, and the majority of businesses were selling opals. And yes, I did a little shopping.

Then a little trip along the dirt roads outside the 'town' area, took me to a track which looked interesting. It was only short, up over a crest, and led to a small clearing - no larger than a small carpark - surrounded by low hills.

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Here I saw three dug-outs neatly next to each other, with front windows and doors and neat little fences. There had even been an attempt to make a bit of a garden in the rocky ground.

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Three small palm trees were thriving. There were solar panels for power, but I was left wondering about their access to water. I was hoping someone would come out so I could ask some questions, but saw no sign of life.

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On the opposite side of this little clearing were a couple of mine entrances. The residents here appeared to be doing well.

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The Comfort Inn, Coober Pedy

In Coober Pedy water is expensive. Only the most expensive accommodation does not charge extra for showers. All places have a ban on filling water containers, including caravans and campers. There is a central place where water can be bought. I never went to enquire how much it cost, but the signs that water is precious and expensive, were everywhere. Even more expensive than petrol, which was $1.63 for standard unleaded. (multiply that by 3.75 for gallons.)

Tonight was the last of the meals I had brought from home. That Waeco I bought all those years ago has been worth every penny. An early night was in store. The flight was at 11am, and I was assured it was a two hour drive to William Creek. I was allowing myself three hours. But I had yet to get my tyres deflated for the rocky road ahead.

Lifey

4th June
The William Creek Road turnoff is some four kms south of Coober Pedy, along the Stuart Highway. And even in this short distance, I was to be surprised. The sign on the back of the truck said 'Long Vehicle', as do all road-train vehicles. But I was not prepared to be overtaking an 82 wheeler.... yes!! Prime mover pulling four tankers. This would not have been possible only a couple of decades ago, before this road was sealed. I must admit, it left me flabberghasted!

Poor William Creek Road is much maligned. Here too we are starting to see this paranoia about driving on unsurfaced roads. The sign virtually demanded you carry 2 spares; two jacks; plenty of water; blah; blah; blah!! Mind you, not a word about tyre pressure, let alone common sense. And as the man who has to fix all the flats, told me, 99% of flat tyres were over-inflated. His chart said that the Subaru desired 25psi on the front and 28psi on the back. I had been driving with new tyres inflated to well into the 30psi, on bitumen. Not that I would normally know. My little tyre man looks after that at least once a month.

So with my tyres at the correct pressure, I took the William Creek turn-off ...

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and discovered it to be quite a good road.

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A bit rocky in places,

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a few patches of sand,

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and some washboarding. But on the whole, a good road.

I stopped a few times to take photos, and when a truck came from the other direction, the cloud of dust was so dense that it set off my parking sensors. These plains were full of birdlife, and I thought what a wonderland it would be for birdwatchers. I am not sure if the abundance was due to the water in the Lake - still 150kms away - or the mice plague much of S.A. and western Victoria have been suffering. Many of the birds appeared to be birds of prey, and there were huge flocks of little finches.

Along this road, as along so many of the roads in the area, you will sooner or later come to the 'Dog Fence'.

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This is said to be the longest fence in the world, to keep the dingo out of sheep country, and prevent it from breeding with domestic dogs. Other than that, the trip was uneventful and I arrived with time to spare.

The two hour flight was spectacular. There simply are not enough adjectives in the English language to describe it all. I shall leave the actual flight and Lake story for the next post, and tell it with the photos.

Back at the William Creek hotel, after the flight, we were literally trying to come back down to earth. I chose to have a hearty lunch, and take the opportunity to download the several hundred photos I had taken, to my computer. Over lunch I got to chatting with another lone lady having lunch (as ye do). She was telling me how she had enjoyed Oodnadatta, and all the sights north and west of there. She assured me that the road was good, and there should be no reason for my Outback not to be able to make that journey. It was now 2.30pm, but seeing I was this far north, I may as well. It could mean having to skip Broken Hill, but that can wait till another day.

Oodnadatta Track
The Oodnadatta Track is one of the legendary tracks most nomads rave about. It goes back well into the 1800s when drovers took stock along this route to market.

The road was much like the William Creek Road, except the 'crests' and 'dips' were much more frequent. There were also many more patches of loose sand or gravel. However, they do not faze me. And, just like the William Creek Road, the Oodnadatta Track crosses many dry creek beds and floodways. None of which is bridged. (Hence the 'dips'.)

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Doesn't look half as bad in the picture, not like it did there.

And so it was that I came to Peake Creek. This was not a dry creek bed. I had been assured that I would be fine - my vehicle would easily cross the gravel bottomed creek.

Maybe I am no longer as adventurous as I used to be. I was on a road - Track - which saw 10 vehicles in three hours, and by now it was 4pm. It definitely is not a road ye wanna be on in the dark. And even though I was carrying an Epirb, I was not about to deliberately create a situation where I may need to use it. I turned around and headed back.

I am not sure why, maybe it is because I was thinking of how I was going to explain this, but my computer came to mind. I glanced over to where I always keep it, and it was not there. I then realised I had left it in the dining room at the William Creek Hotel.

Everything happens for a reason!

I was also glad that I had ample fuel for the return journey. (It always worries me when I hear folk say they have 'enough' fuel to get 'there'.)

When I hit a patch of loose sand far too fast, I realised I was panicking. The last thing I needed was an accident. Time to stop. Take some deep breaths, a drink of water, some nibblies from the pack and a walk - even if only around the car.

At 5.45pm I arrived back in William Creek - the sun was just setting. And yes, they had found my computer, but when they did, I was already out of sight. And I was once again assured, by all the locals in the bar, that my Outback would have crossed that creek without a worry.

A budget bed at William Creek Hotel for $35. Wifi was available for $20/hr!

256 kms; more than $40 in fuel; and over three hours wasted. Or was it?

For me it was all part of a perfect day.

Lifey

Glad the recovery of your computer went so well -- we're all enjoying the photos and the trip report!.

Mark

Yes, I am really enjoying following your report and the pictures are great! I had been 'following' you on Google maps and had looked up the 'Opal capital of the world' that is 'Coober Pedy'. Fascinating place, but be careful where you tread, we don't want you ending up being another statistic falling down one of those mine shafts !!

5th June
Today started like no other ever has, and I sincerely hope no other ever will.

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Yes!! you see correct! Never ever have I paid $100 to fill my car. I have never even come close to it.

My Outback was not going anywhere without a drink. I filled her, smiled and paid... then took the photo as a souvenir.

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Today's destination was going to be Marree - via the southern portion of the Oodnadatta Track,
or Leigh Creek, or Hawker... depending on what there was to distract me along the way. Turned out there was quite a lot, and most of it was related to The Ghan.

The first turn off I came to was the Lake Eyre track... the only land access to the northern Lake. I had seen this 60km track from the air, and heard about those who perished on it. I thought I'd check it out. Having gone but a few kms, I did not like the look of what lay ahead. On top of that there was rain beckoning on the horizon. And an Epirb is not exactly a licence to make stupid decisions. So, at a spot where obviously lots of others had, I turned back.

Wabma Kadarbu Conservation Park is just 4kms off the road, and it was time for a break. Little was I to know upon what a gem I had landed. Here, right in the middle of the dessert, off a road - Track - less travelled, is a spring called 'The Bubbler'. There is this small pool, maybe three metres in diametre, where water just bubbles up. Not consistently in one spot, but all over the little pool.

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It then flows over it's rocky surrounds creating a tiny waterfall,

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before trickling off into the desert creating a small oasis of green in this barren land.

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When one explores all there is along the way, one starts to understand how the natives survived on this continent for tens of thousands of years. Survival is everywhere, and they knew where to find it.

The train which runs from Adelaide to Darwin is known as The Ghan. Until recently, this train only went as far as Alice Springs. Today it is a luxury multi day trek, but that was not always the case. Here is a map of where it used to run, and its new route. And this is the only site I found with some of its history. In the days when it was a narrow gauge line, it passed through Quorn, Hawker, Marree and Oodnadatta - among other places. And I remember so well through the 50s and 60s and 70s, the news bulletins about The Ghan being held up because the Finke River was in flood or the railway bridge had been washed away. It was also common in those days to hear stories of passengers hopping off, pick some wild flowers, and hop back on again. It could be a slow journey.

Some would call them the good old days. The new standard guage route is secure, and the train regularly runs to its schedule. But at a cost.

The first ruin I came across was Margaret Siding.

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There is a fence around the building for safety. There are remnants of the railway line used as poles, and the easement upon which the rails lay is still visible.

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At Curdimurka Siding the railway building is being restored.

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The track is still there, as is the water tank from which the steam engine was filled. Even the railway crossing over the road has been preserved, complete with warning signs. It was hard to leave this place. Besides been the official stop for the steam trains, this building was also where the railway staff who manned it, lived. All this is now deserted.

There are other places which are struggling to stay alive.

Among these Marree is unique. Quorn, Hawker, Oodnadatta and William Creek all have other tourist attractions to market and keep them afloat. But Marree does not have the proximity of the Opal fields or Lake Eyre, nor the nearness of the Flinders and Gammon Ranges. To add to its woes, the Stuart Highway was located through Woomera, and bypasses Marree by some 150kms. The sealed road stops at Lyndhurst.

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Marree is a dying town, sacrificed on the altar of progress.

The last site at which I spent some time is west of Marree where the Oodnadatta Track skirts Lake Eyre South.

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It was possible to walk to the lake at this point, but you'd get pretty dirty.

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Here, several hundred kms from the Southern Ocean, were seagulls fighting for the scraps from those who had stopped for lunch.

Five miles north of Lyndhurst I finally hit the bitumen again... and can't say I was sorry to see it. That is not to say I did not love the experience of the Track, and can't wait to hit the Haul Road. I was almost 200kms from Hawker, and planned to arrive there before dark, but I could not resist stopping to take this photo along the way.

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It is a very long time since I have seen so many sulpher crested cockatoos in one place.

Spent two nights at Hawker's Flinders Ranges Caravan Park, in one of their on-site vans. (Something which I have never seen in North America.)

6th June
Besides getting my tyres pumped back up to highway driving pressure, I spent the complete day at the Hawker library, using their wifi and their computers, trying to upload photos from my computer to the internet, and catching up on posts, email, etc. It was good to stay in one spot all day.

Lifey

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Today started like no other ever has, and I sincerely hope no other ever will.

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'Goundhog day' for us Brits.

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Yes!! you see correct! Never ever have I paid $100 to fill my car. I have never even come close to it.

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Take 50 litres and the exchange rate from GBP to AUSD and that $110 is about the same as we pay here. Wecome to the UK ! Lol.

Cool report and pictures, I like 'The Bubbler'

I've put more than $100 in fuel tanks here in the USA -- most folks rarely have more than a 25 gal tank so they've not experienced that particular joy yet... But I've done it several times.... It's still a thrill...(I guess).

Loving the photos and the write-up, they really bring that part of SW Australia to life for me.

Mark

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Originally Posted by Mark Sedenquist

they really bring that part of SW Australia to life for me.

Mark

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Thanks Mark, that is great to hear. At least I am succeeding at 'something'.

Lifey

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Originally Posted by Lifemagician

Spent two nights at Hawker's Flinders Ranges Caravan Park, in one of their on-site vans. (Something which I have never seen in North America.)

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Really? Just about every RV park I've seen recently is using some kind of trailer for those guests not pulling their own. The prevailing trend is use vintage Airstream trailers for this purpose. It's kind of nice ---.

Mark

Well Mark, something must have got lost in translation. Certainly nowhere I went did they even know what I was talking about. Of course, this is a few years ago, as it is not what I was looking for on my last trip.

Just another example of two peoples divided by a common language.

Lifey

7th June
Last time I was in Peterborough, I just passed through. This time I thought it would be nice to stop and see what there is to offer. It was just 150km down the road, so a leisurely drive straight down the R.M. Williams Highway.

Stopped in Orroroo for a break, a cuppa and a visit to the visitor centre of this tiny town. What intrigued me most here was, the highway on which I was driving was designated B80 on my map, and on all the road signs. In the visitor centre, however, on their big wall maps, it was designated B83. And no one could explain it to me. Said they did not know; had never noticed (yet there is one of those large green signs right outside their door); had never been asked. And I never got an answer.

It did highlight to me just how little notice the average motorist takes of detail along the road and on maps. Always having been the navigator in the family, little things like that have always been important to me.

None-the-wiser, I continued on to Peterborough, the railway town, and a regular stop for the Indian Pacific. The railway museum looked interesting, but just too much walking for me.

The best part about these little towns is you don't have to make too many decisions. One service station, one supermarket, one caravan park.... I mean, who needs two? The local caravan park had a lovely and cosy van available, and by late afternoon, I had settled.

8th June
Less than 300kms to Broken Hill, so need to rush. Spent a little more time driving through Peterborough before moving on. This trip ended up taking me through country similar to where I grew up. I found myself reciting the poetry I learned at school. The sun was shining, though the breeze was chilly.

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Olary!

In Olary I stopped to make a cuppa and eat the snack I had made that morning. I was not the only one with that idea. A couple of residences and a small store, make up this settlement.

Broken Hill - The Silver City - is full of old historic buildings, and I chose to stay in one of the best known, The Palace Hotel. This establishment was the location for some of the film, Priscilla, Queen of the Desert.

When I walked in the front door, I was stunned to see the whole place decorated with wall murals. Every wall, every ceiling had a mural on it. The first thing most folk do when they walk in the front door, is get out their camera. And of course, so did I.

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The first thing one sees on entry.

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Looking straight up to the ceiling, three floors above.

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Ate in their restaurant that night, and turned in early. Side affect of that is, that I also wake up early.

Lifey

[These last few days have been somewhat of an anti climax. I seem to have used up all my sight-seeing energy in Coober Pedy, over Lake Eyre and along the Oodnadatta Track.]

9th June
It was 3.30 when I awoke, and no way could I get back to sleep. By 6am I was ready to hit the road.

It had been my intention to photograph some of the beautiful historic buildings in the morning, but now, it was srill dark. So these are the only ones I have, of the Palace exterior.

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Palace Hotel, Broken Hill.

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Close up of the decorative iron lace work, so popular at the time.

Around 7am the dawn came with a shimmering strip of light on the horizon, to my left. I hoped it would be a sunrise worth some photos.

More than an hour into my trip I came to Coombah Roadhouse, the only services along the Silver City Highway to Wentworth. A couple of hundred metres south of the roadhouse there was a clearing at the side of the road, just as the sun was peeking over the horizon.

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The morning mist had not yet disappeared. It made for perfect pictures.

The Sunraysia, the north west corner of Victoria, is a fruitfly free region and to protect its rich citrus and grape industries, fruit and vegetables may not be carried into or through the region. And so it was that I came to the sign and bin where these items need to be dumped. It was then that I realised that I still had six oranges in the car... oranges I had bought in Coober Pedy for a small fortune. I was not to keen to throw these out.

When I leave home, I pick up my 'camping box', in which are all the things I like to have with me... just in case. One of these is a juicer. And so, to save my precious oranges, I sat down and juiced them into a jug. Poured it all into an empty water bottle, and found I had 600ml of orange juice. There is no ban on carrying orange juice.

By now it was after 9am and I continued through Wentworth - gave the Outback a drink - and continued on to Mildura, the other side of the river. I was now back in my home State.

Another historic bridge over the Murray (there are very few modern bridges over this river) took my interest. This bridge, between two major urban centres, is a one way bridge. The traffic light at each end controls the movement of traffic. It is barely wide enough for the big trucks to cross.

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Single lane bridge over the Murray at Mildura.

Most times it is hard to find a spot from where one can photograph a bridge, so I was glad to see a clearing where I could pull over and get a picture.

Drove straight through Mildura. I wanted to be beyond Mildura traffic in the morning. The people at the Colonial Motel in Red Cliffs were really nice, and the place was cosy. It gave me an opportunity to relax, catch up with a few things online, and sort things out in my car. By now everything was everywhere.

10th June
Thought I might do the scenic drive through Hattah Kulkyne National Park and see Hattah Lakes. But when I got that far, the road was closed. So the drive home was going to be straight down the Calder, all the way to Melbourne.

North of Wycheproof, there is a little place. A few silos by the rail siding, store, etc., but if you were to blink (so to say), you could miss it. There is no reason to stop here... well, there used to be no reason to stop here, until Nullawil came into the twenty-first century, and made themselves indispensable. At both ends of the town are roadside billboards declaring Nullawil an internet zone! I did not stop, but it left me wondering how many do, and what benefit it has brought to the community. Guess those who stop invariably buy a drink or something.

Now I had planned to be home by Friday evening 10th June, primarily because this was the eve of a holiday long weekend. I wanted to avoid the extra cost of accommodation not to mention the traffic. At times like that many local communities along the major highways set up a

STOP
Revive
Survive

Caravan in a nearby rest area, offering free coffee, tea, and hot chocolate, as well as biscuits. They find this preferable to having to cut the dead and injured out of wrecks.

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This one was at Wedderburn and run by the local Lions Club. Of course I stopped to get my cuppa and have a chat before continuing on my way. The ladies from the Lions Club were manning the caravan and the men were doing surveys of the drivers... when did you leave? where did you start? what time? where are you heading? etc. (I do recall, in 2004 coming across a similar service north of Seattle on I-5.)

Got home in time to make another visit to my mechanic to check a couple of things, get the car washed and fill her up again.

It was good to be home.

[I haven't forgotten about The Flight. Now that I have finished posting the roadtrip, I will get the photos organised to illustrate that magnificent experience.]

Lifey

In my preparation for this trip, I had been persuaded to equip myself with an Epirb, and had also upped my road side care from standard to total. Small insurance policies I hoped I would not need.

Most meals were home cooked, and all non-perishables (rice, noodles, cereal, coffee, tea, sugar, honey, etc.) were brought from home.

So here is how things came out in the washup:

Time: 10 days;
Distance: 4087 kms - about 20% on unsealed roads and 244 kms on dual carriageway;
Fuel: $650.00; 412.02 ltr ulp - ave $1.578 ltr;
Accommodation: $449.00;
Everything else: $865.18; (includes insurances mentioned above as well as gift, etc.);

Good to see it all came in under budget. Much cheaper than all the commercial tours. And look at how many places I went, how much I did and saw.

It was 11am on 4th June, a bright sunny day, when Sarah steered the four-seater Cessna 182 down the runway, up, up and away, ENE towards Lake Eyre.

The tiny settlement of William Creek consists a couple of residences, caravan park, pub and flight office, and not much more.

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William Creek from the air.

It is situated on the private property of Anna Creek Station, probably the largest cattle property in the world. We were about to see it from 1500 feet up in the air.

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Anna Creek Station near William Creek

Looking out across the countryside, the first thing I noticed was the dunes. I recalled learning in school, that much of the centre of Australia is covered with dunes which run roughly north south. They were spectacular.

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Central Australian Sand Dunes

Sarah pointed out to us the only track which leads to Lake Eyre North. It was clearly visible. This is a track, not a maintained or graded. She told of the people who have come to grief on that track, and of those who perished there.

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The Track, you'll need to look closely...
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... it is more than 60kms long and covers challenging country.

There were also mustering yards to be seen, as well as large dams filled from the Great Artesian Basin.

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One of the many dams and a mustering pen (middle right). Note also the track.

[It is said that because of water being so available to wildlife, there are now something like 200 kangaroos for every one when Captain Cook first landed on the continent.]

The other thing which struck me is how much the land looked like an aboriginal dot-painting. I wondered if that is the origine of native art.

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And finally we got to the Lake. Sarah now dropped the plane to 700' to make it clearer for us to see. The shore looked like a moonscape, with the salt and the colours in the water.

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In other areas there were cliffs and escarpments at the edge of the Lake.

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Cliffs along the shore of Lake Eyre.

The Lake is not completely full yet, and may of course, not fill completely, though there is still a lot of water coming down the Cooper.

As the water evaporates it leaves behind sediment on the salt floor of the Lake.

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Eventually the wind will blow the sediment away, and the salt will be sparkling white again.

The Lake started filling around Christmas 2009, and has had almost continuous water flowing into it since. The last two monsoon seasons have been very wet, and with the ground still saturated from the previous year, this year's wet has had the effect of almost filling the Lake.

The water in the Lake is saltier than the ocean. However the water which comes in from the rivers is fresh water, and at first does mix. There is a clear embarkation line between the fresh and salt water. The fresh water is darker than the salt water, which is bright blue.

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The fresh water coming in from the northern rivers creates a channel down the Lake.

These two photos also show how difficult it was to see the horizon. We were told that more than one plane has gone down in the water.

Once we had crossed the Lake, we turned NNE, which took us from the southern end of Lake Eyre North, to the northern part, whence we headed NNW till we came to the northern shores where the great rivers flow in.

On that course we flew over a small island at the mouth of one of the inlets (there are many islands in the Lake), which is a pelican rookery. As the plane approached, the noise made many of the birds take off in flight.

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Pelicans in flight.

Of course I do not have the sophisticated photographic equipment which would have shown them much clearer - the way we saw them.

We were now over the channel country, where all the water from the monsoons comes down from the Northern Territory, inland Queensland and outback New South Wales. These channels form the rivers, which flow into the Lake.

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Typical channel country.

The largest of these are the Cooper Creek and the Warburton River.

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It takes months for the water to come down from the north before it actually flows into Lake Eyre. The Warburton River effectively drains most of the top end. There is still a large volume of water coming down the Cooper which will not arrive till around the middle of July. We were told that it could have a significant effect on the water level in the Lake - which by the way, is as big as the country of Holland.

All too soon the two hours were up, and we were on our way back to William Creek, at an altitude of 1500'. As we were flying over Anna Creek Station, Sarah was telling us why the mustering this year was late, and why it almost did not happen at all. With all the water which has been coming down, the ground was just too soft to use the ATVs, without getting bogged. The mustering had to be done on horseback, the way it always was. Problem was, they had great difficulty in finding sufficient cattlemen who were skilled enough to ride the outback country. It has become a lost art.

Sarah put down the plane ever so gently on the outback airstrip.

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William Creek airport.

As we stepped out of the Cessna one of my fellow passengers was heard to say, "Worth every cent of it!"

I concurred.

[Quite early on I gave up on trying to take perfect pictures, with the horizon level and without parts of the plane included. With Sarah zigzagging and circling over the lake and rivers, that was impossible.]

If you would like to see more of the pictures I took, go to my album, Flight over Lake Eyre.

I was looking forward to the flight pictures and I am not disappointed, nice work !

Really enjoyed the report on this vast land, thanks !

Great report. Loved every post and every pic.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mark Sedenquist

I've put more than $100 in fuel tanks here in the USA -- most folks rarely have more than a 25 gal tank so they've not experienced that particular joy yet... But I've done it several times.... It's still a thrill...(I guess).

Loving the photos and the write-up, they really bring that part of SW Australia to life for me.

Mark

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A few years back, I had to put $110 worth in our truck. Both tanks were at 1/4, and diesel was over $5/gal at the time.

I am enjoying these photos, too - - I just "discovered" the "new posts" tab a few days ago, so I'm getting caught up on forums and posts that I hadn't read yet!


Donna

I was talking to a local resident here on the south coast of the UK yesterday and who I hadn't seen for a little while. He explained that he had been in Australia for almost 3 months and during the discussion it was mentioned that he was in Coober Pedy "about 3 weeks ago" !

It put a smile on my face, I had never heard of the place until this report and I was able to refer to the 'Opal capital of the world' and underground buildings there and Lake Eyre etc. I of course explained the reason behind my knowledge of the place.

You could have past each other in the street !

Quote:

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A few years back, I had to put $110 worth in our truck. Both tanks were at 1/4, and diesel was over $5/gal at the time.

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I haven't had that privilege (?) yet - my truck has a 25 gallon tank (gas) and my record so far is $86. However, I have had the experience several times of the pump shutting off at $75 and having to swipe my card again.

One hundred dollars plus, and swiping the card again has become second nature in the RV's. lol. It's still cheaper filling the RV up in the US than it is my everyday car at home in the UK though.

Glad to hear that you are enjoying this trip with me. I have to admit as I read through this thread, I relive the trip. That is the great part about keeping notes, taking photos and writing a report.

At other times, it is almost as if I am reading someone else's story.

Dave, what a co-incidence. Small world indeed! I trust you sounded most knowledgeable and well informed. (lol)

Lifey

I loved that approach shot of the landing strip! And the report has been really fun to read!

Mark

The news has been full of this report today. Very worrying. Sure hope it does not deter others from taking on this wonderful trip.

Lifey

Good heavens, Lifey! The poor family! Keep us posted if the man is found, please?



Donna

Here's the latest on Jason.

Lifey

And to think that for a mere $100 an Epirb could have saved him.

Lifey

It was the fantastic TV documentaries which lured me to Lake Eyre in the first place. Great documentaries by the best of journalists, illustrated by experienced cameramen and facilitated by incredibly skilled helicopter pilots. And none were better than the team from the ABC (Australian Broadcasting Corporation). With close on a century of experience between them, they covered cyclones and floods, bush fires and earthquakes as well as natural wonders such as Lake Eyre. Their documentaries are shown over and over again.

Last night, about 150 kms north of Maree, just as they were on their way to make an update film of Lake Eyre, the helicopter crashed. In this remote area, there was no way to reach the site, other than by helicopter, and at daylight it was confirmed that there were no survivors.

As beautiful as the outback is, it is indeed, a harsh environment.

Lifey