James W Dalton Highway - The Haul Road
Will share with you here only the highlights of this trip, so as not to duplicate everything I wrote after my last trip to the Arctic Ocean.. This time I only went as far as Deadhorse.
They've cleaned up the sign, and taken off all the stickers. I recall three years ago, it was covered with stickers.
The first thing most visitors do is visit the pipeline information centre just north of Fairbanks. This had changed quite a bit.
I noted the new exhibits, and lamented the ones no longer there.
My first stop was at the BLM information centre at Yukon Crossing. The bridge over the river here has a 7% grade.
A great run down, but one could constantly hear trucks grinding their way to the top.
Spent quite some time with Linda and her husband, who have come up for the summer (from Oregon, if I recall) to man the post. This was their first year, and they were full of information to impart. When they heard I planned to go the Arctic Circle, gave me my certificate to fill in when I crossed this imaginary line on our globe. They had brought their 38' RV up, and were camped at Five Mile campground - with their five dogs! They actually had quite a nice spot, which is reserved for the Campground Host, part of their job.
It sounded like a good place to spend the night. There were the usual primitive toilets, and bonus was, there was potable water from a constantly flowing well nearby.
Next morning, it was some 30 miles further on, on the top of a hill, that I saw a truck parked, its driver walking around. I pulled into this roadside stop.
Terry is a driver with Carlisle, and travels to Deadhorse three times a week, every week. He shared with me much about the road, and the changes he has seen in the last 15 years or so, not just to the road, but the country of the north in general.
Stopped here, high on the hill overlooking the surrounding northern wilderness, he said was one of his favourite spots to stop, get out of his truck and walk around. Then went on to tell me about a couple of other spots where he likes to stop, or spend a night. As he said, not much could be better than waking up to this magnificent view.
Further on is Finger Mountain, another great roadside stop. It seemed like a good place to have lunch.
There is a short interpretive path which winds it way through the wild flowers - just starting to bloom - to the top of the hill. The view from up there in every direction is just great.
See where the road ahead, leads.
This is also a spot truckies choose to take their break. And hey! who can blame them.
After a good hour or more at Finger Mountain, it was time to head for the Arctic Circle. I have no idea why I took so many photos here. Nothing has changed since last time. (lol)
Half a mile off the road, behind the Arctic Circle picnic ground, there is a very nice little campground... by the looks of it suitable for average size RVs.
I chose to push on to Coldfoot for the night without knowing what was yet in store. At Grayling Lake I got a nice shot of the lake, through the bushes.
Even managed to get myself into a position to take a shot of the seaplane anchored below.
There must be some sort of habitation around, though it was not obvious.
All along this road there are tankers which go up and down spraying water to help keep the calcium dust down. A couple of hundred metres north of the lake rest area is a small pull off, with a pump which these trucks use to fill. Thinking I could get to the water, I went to pull into it, when I noticed what seemed like a cat, sniffing around the pump. Of course as soon as it heard/saw me, it dashed off into the bushes. I was thrilled to still be able to get a photo of it.
Somehow, it did not look like a feral cat, so I decided to wait and see if it would come out of the bushes. After some time - quite some time - it made a move, and my patience was rewarded.
It was not really until I got this shot, that I was convinced I was looking at a lynx.
At the visitor centre in Coldfoot, it was the first report of the sighting of a lynx, this year. On the way back I saw another lynx cross the road in front of me, some distance further south.
Stayed the night at a lovely little BLM campground - Marion Creek.
Lifey
Return Journey - 'The Dalton Experience'!
It is said that some people drive the Dalton Highway, and some lucky (?) ones have The Dalton Experience!
After a good night's sleep and breakfast I went in search of the Tesero service station. It's not as if Deadhorse is that big, but it is very spread out. It was almost three miles from where I was parked to Tesero. I enquired in the office about fuel, and a lovely gent came out and filled her up for me. At the mere price of $5.50/gal. Once again I was surprised. I had expected it to be more.
Then I asked if there was somewhere where I could clean the windscreen. He told me to go ask at the workshop. The manager there - who had some connection with Australia - was only too pleased to get two of his young workers to attend to my vehicle. The order was to clean all windows, and lights.
(You see, one thing I did not consider, when purchasing this vehicle, is that I cannot reach the windscreen to clean it. So far I have been fortunate. Just by asking when I fill up, there has usually been someone who will clean it for me.)
It was cold and foggy!
It was time to head back south, back down this road with its steep grades on hills. Some up to 12%. At times you can't see the road in front of you, as you drive over the crest. It's like being on a roller coaster. At one time we saw a huge crane on a truck. There was another truck attached to the rear, to help push it uphill, and to stop it from rolling out of control on the way down. There is a wrecked vehicle by the side of the road, at the bottom of Beaver Slide. I wondered if it had been left there as a sober reminder.
This road with the ongoing construction, the pilot cars, the potholes, the dust and slush. This road which services the pipeline, draped like a ribbon over the country side. This road which beckons the adventurous to Deadhorse in all types of vehicles, trucks, cars, motorcycles and RVs. Even bicycles!
The Dalton Experience!
So it was, just as I was about to ascend Atigun Pass, I stopped to the side, to let a truck pass. As I went to pull off, something seemed not quite right. Right at that moment, two motorcyclists, who had been on the adjacent turnout, came up to warn me.... my passenger side rear tyre had blown out.
The two motorcyclists were part of a group of thirteen, who were on a conducted tour of Alaska which included Deadhorse. One of them had just had a flat tyre replaced, and their support vehicle was sitting there, on the turnout, right beside me. They told me not to worry and went back to speak to their leader.
Once the van was off the road, Brenden did an expert job taking off the injured wheel, and replacing it with my spare. It helps that he too owns an Econoline. Brenden is from CO. During the summer he runs tours for motorcyclists throughout AK. They come from all over the world to ride with him.
Having got me back on the road, Brenden asked me to stop at the first convenient spot south of the Pass, so he could check the nuts again. Which he did.
[If you are going to have a flat, make sure it is right by a turnout where you can get off the road, and then make sure there is a support vehicle present to assist. Someone up high was looking after my interests.]
That evening Brenden advised me to leave early next morning, at least earlier than he would. Said that he would keep an eye out for me, in case I had any further problems. My knight in shining armour, who would not take anything for his troubles. He should by now have found the note I slipped into his jacket pocket, while he was attending to my vehicle.
Back in Fairbanks I arrangements for new tyres, and settled back at Riverview. The plan was to spend the weekend there, and head back out on Monday morning. That was until I heard the road was closed. There was no road contact between AK and the lower 48.
I was comfortable at Riverview, and happy to stay there for a couple of more days. It is at times like this that it really puzzles me how people plan trips to the day, let alone, to the hour.
Lifey
Long-term kit needs; planning
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Lifemagician
It is said that some people drive the Dalton Highway, and some lucky (?) ones have The Dalton Experience!
(You see, one thing I did not consider, when purchasing this vehicle, is that I cannot reach the windscreen to clean it. So far I have been fortunate. Just by asking when I fill up, there has usually been someone who will clean it for me.)
I was comfortable at Riverview, and happy to stay there for a couple of more days. It is at times like this that it really puzzles me how people plan trips to the day, let alone, to the hour.
Lifey
Lifey,
Glad to know you found ready assistance at Atigun Pass. I routinely stop to render assistance, even if just to "block" for someone changing a tire (parking my truck 100' to 200' further behind, with flashers on).
In most large travel plazas, at least those along Interstates in the Lower 48, you're likely to find for sale a long-handled tool with a scrubber/sponge on one side and a squeegee on the other. That and a spray bottle of Windex are good to have on board in the event you don't find a Good Samaritan when needed.
I think total flexibility can only be arranged by the fully retired, and cheers for that group including you. Many of the rest of us are "destination oriented" meaning that we've no choice but to lay down miles to reach the places where we can dawdle and enjoy some flexibility as to schedule.
Enjoying the trip immensely! Thanks for sharing.
Foy
There's method in the madness.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Foy
In most large travel plazas, at least those along Interstates in the Lower 48, you're likely to find for sale a long-handled tool with a scrubber/sponge on one side and a squeegee on the other. That and a spray bottle of Windex are good to have on board ...
But then, how would I meet all these lovely people? distribute my business cards and give away my trinkets? Most need a break from their daily routine, and thoroughly enjoy it. Who am I to deprive them of that?
Lifey in Yellowknife
