US-191 - Rivers and Roads
Ir was not until I reflected on this Sunday, that I realised I had driven by rivers all day. A most pleasant day.
As expected, the sun woke me early, and not having anyone with whom to spend time sharing stories/experiences, I was on the road soon after. The goal was to see if I could make my way to the Gap which Carl had recommended.
The first 5.5 miles followed the Green River back to US-191. Driving high up on the bluffs, with the river so far below me it was a beautiful view over the surrounding countryside... all bathed in the soft glow of the early morning..
Heading north, US-191 enters the Hobach Canyon, winding its way through the canyon beside the Hobach river.. Just before the Canyon there are roadside boards giving the history and significance of the Canyon in early exploration and to the natives who lived there. For 11 miles the road is no passing, with only one or two small pulloffs in this section, and none of those are in a position to photograph the best of it.
I thought to check out Granite Creek Campground, The road to the campground turns east out of Hobach Canyon, at the northern end.. A small dirt road, barely wide enough for two vehicles, though there are many spots where it is a little wider to pass. It twists and winds its way up the mountain following the creek the nine miles to the campground.
This campground is in a most idyllic setting, with mature trees all around and well spaced camping spots. It looked to be well over half full with many families, lots of motor homes and trailers and the occasional tent The camphost told me that many families come each year. It is essential to book for opening and closing weekends - Memorial and Labour Day - but rarely fills up at other times.
I queried about getting those large trailers in over that little dirt road. He told me that he gets his wife to go up ahead to check the traffic, and he follows with the trailer behind - it was huge. Still all the others got theirs in as well, not sure how they managed.
Once there the main attraction is the Creek - which once the snow melt has passed, can be waded, and fishing. A mile above the campground is Granite Creek Hot Springs. Halfway to the Hot Springs are the Falls, which are easily accessible. I was told that there is a hot pool near the base of the Falls as well. This is where most campers seemed to be going. It did mean crossing the creek.
Having driven through the two loops of the campground, I headed back to the highway. Going back was ever so much easier. for one I was not on the drop-off side, and I knew what to expect.
At Hobach Junction I took US-89/26 south to Alpine WY. This route runs through the Snake River Canyon. Highlight here was at one turnout seeing the rafts on the river. Seems here was a party from MI university rafting. Must have been for some project, as there appeared to be folk with clipboards and paper all along the banks. I joined the many who had pulled over here to watch the activities below.
A small mountain town, Alpine WY can be seen (and explored) in 10 minutes. It was then a case of finding the road which would take me south to McDougal's Gap. Did not take long, considering there are only a few roads out of town.
Since fuel here was considerably cheaper than in Pinedale, I took the opportunity to fill the tank.
The road along the Grey river - Greys River Road/FR10038 - is a well maintained gravel road, and tunred out to be quite busy. The first couple of miles out of town are paved. All along the road there are pull offs to the river. It was at one of the first of these, right by the water, that I stopped for lunch. There was another vehicle there, with dog and all, but I never saw anyone near it. Maybe they had gone fishing. Fishing and camping were popular activities along this way.
I think this road would have been easier to drive from South to North, as there were a few times that one was high above the river, .... which was a long way down. Having gone for quite some time and distance, I began to wonder if I had missed the turnoff. Figuring many of those who were driving this scenic route were locals, I stopped a car and asked. They assured me Sheep Creek Road/FR10125 was up ahead... actually, not much further. I could not have missed it.
Sheep Creek Road not only led to McDougal's Gap, but followed, as one may expect, Sheep Creek. Carl had been right, the view from the Gap was worth it. It Would have been better if I had been able to hike up the hill on the side. A nice spot... however, right at the Gap the road was not in the best condition.
Cottonwood Ryegrass Rd led back to US-189 just south of Daniel WY. (That is the road I should have taken on the previous day.)
200 miles of great scenery much of it through the Bridger Teton NF and Grose Ventre Wilderness areas..
Back at the Visitor centre I thanked Carl and Nancy for their suggestions, and told them how much I had enjoyed the drive. for the night it was back to the old KOA, in town, where I joined the tents already set up. It was after dark when two Harleys roared into the campground, HIS completely lit up in blue, HERS in a soft red/dark pink. They too pitched their tent and settled down for the night.
Lifey
And the road rolls on....
Lifey,
Nice to see that you've taken up the thread of sharing this tale with us!
Mark
Looks like I skipped a day.
Which happens to be the day I spent driving on all the roads in the Grand Teton NP. A place which left me pretty well underwhelmed. Did not make any positive notes about that day.
Lifey
Not the usual sort of response
Lifey,
That's got to be a first. You were underwhelmed driving around the Grand Tetons? Wow.
Lots of members have posted awesome photos here from there. I have few too...
Mark
US-191 - to Big Timber MT
Back on US-181 the drive north by the Gallatin river took me through the Canyon, the Gallatin NF, and Gallatin Gateway onto Bozeman.. It is not the first time I had driven this route, and it never ceases to satisfy and amaze. This route and this National Forest abound with forestry camp sites in the most wonderful settings. It could be a great place to spend a couple of weeks, so close to Yellowstone. I would imagine the wildlife to be wonderful.
One of my memorable experiences was at the nearby FJ. Something which I enjoy, is playing on words... and their meanings. Here on the menu was fish and chips - battered cod. Young Daniel came to take my order, and I said I was most concerned about the 'battered' cod. Told him I may have to report them to the animal authorities. Of course he had no idea what I was talking about. But when I mentioned about the reporting of battered wifes, he cottoned on immediately. Shortly after, he came back with a big smile on his face. He had spoken with the chef, and had been assured, he told me, that they handle the cod lovingly, massage them gently and speak to them softly, to ensure they serve happy cod to the diners. (I do love it when others go along with the humour.) It set the scene for a most enjoyable meal. Since they had wifi, I stayed for some time afterwards.
Next day at Barnes and Noble I finally found the books I wanted for my grandchildren. While there, I got a nice drink and settled down using their wifi. At the next table there was a lady who had her electronics plugged into the power. When she saw me wanting to plug in my computer, she assured mr my large (conversion) plug would fit.
That is how I met Marta.
Of Mexican and Indian heritage, she grew up near Las Cruces, had lived in the San Francisco area for some time and now lived in Four Corners MT, where she has a successful wholesale bakery. Hours had passed when we finally finished sharing life's experiences and adventures. Such a great character.
In the nearby Safeway I was looking for half a dozen organic/free range eggs. A dozen goes off before I can use them all, and take up far too much of precious fridge space. John, a jovial middle aged gent who was filling shelves, went to see if they had any. They did not. However, that was no problem for John, he got out a box cutter and made two half dozen cartons. People can be so helpful.
At the Town and Pump in Livingstone, I asked the cashier if there was a town park nearby, where I could spend some time. She suggested Sacajawea Park at the end of the road. Managed to park where there was a picnic table right by the road. Shaded by a large tree, it was perfect. After cooking and eating I attended to my accumulation of dishes. All up I had four hours to observe the goings on in the park.
The most touching part was the middle aged gentleman who walked through the park with his adult downs syndrome son. They were holding hands, and it was obvious that this was a routine walk. There were mothers/fathers with toddlers. Locals sitting on the seats chatting, and a playground full of children on holiday.
And there was I, washing dishes. A few walked past and asked polite questions.
My next stop was Big Timber. Kelly in the visitor centre was full of information and told of a couple of nearby scenic routes I might like to drive. She also talked about the Greycliff Prairie Dog Town SP. Suggested I might like to go see that. Told me that she could not understand why they made a SP for the Prairie Dog, which she and many of those on the land, regard as pests. The road into the park only goes to the parking area. Right by the entrance I saw a couple of the little critters. They hung around long enough for me to be able to take a photo. The park did not appear to have any picnic facilities, and definitely no camping.
Big Timber is memorable for its guest log at the visitor centre. One of the columns is headed 'What resource did you use to plan this trip?' No prize for guessing what I put.
Lifey
US-191 - North to Lewiston MT
I left Big Timber without any great expectations. I had been told that before I'd get to Lewiston there is a turn-of to Crystal Lake, which I might enjoy. Was told it is a lovely drive, through the canyon, and the lake has a very nice campground. Sounded most appealing.
Some eleven miles north of Big Timber a sign pointed to Big Timber Canyon. This was a place Kelly had not mentioned. There was no indication as to how far it was to the canyon. Maps were not in sufficient detail. Still I turned down the road to see what was there.
Two miles along Wormser Rd was the turn off onto Big Timber Canyon Road, which I followed for some ten miles as it wound its way beside Big Timber Creek through agricultural land till it got to the mountains of the northern end of the Gallatin NF. Once the road entered the forest it deteriorated rapidly. There was a lovely picnic ground, right by the Creek. At this point the road left the forest and entered private property, with signs to warn one not to go off road. That 'road' looked more like a muddy tractor track, at the end of which it entered the forest again, and on to Halfmoon Campground. A very basic, remote campground. A bit too isolated for my liking,
On the way to the canyon, the road wound its way around large boulders which were scattered around the area, boulders as large as houses and cars. I could not help wondering what geological event had placed those boulders down there on the plains.
Old train engines and carriages are a popular attraction in small town parks. The one in Harlowton was no exception. In Judith however, the attraction reflected the area's wind farm industry. Here in the town park is one huge blade from a wind turbine.
The sign said Crystal Lake 20 miles. It was a good gravel road. 45 was a comfortable speed. In the canyon the road was paved - albeit, not in the best condition.. It was an incredibly narrow canyon following Rock Creek the whole way. The drop-off down to the water varied along the road and at times was quite frightening. There was a concrete barrier. As I got further and further into this canyon the road became more and more narrow (or was that an illusion?). In places it looked like it was crumbling away under the concrete barrier - none of which enhanced my confidence. I dreaded the thought of any oncoming traffic.
When I got to Crystal Cascade trailhead parking area, I must have been only a couple of miles from the campground. Still, I took the opportunity to turn around in the parking lot, and headed back. The thought of going all the way to the campground became too much, and to think that the next day I would have to drive it all the way out again - was a little more than I could fathom. The beauty of the drive could not make up for the angst building up inside of me.
(Later I learned that many take their camping trailers and boats along this road for summer by the lake.)
That night I spent at the Kiwanis Rest Area and campground right on US-191 by the airport in Lewistown. This rest area/campground is a public service of the Kiwanis and is maintained by them. It is a lovely area, and was well utilised on this day with almost a dozen camping there, some in tents, others in vans and trailers. There is a posted limit on the length of stay... from memory it is 10 days. Unfortunately this appears not to be enforced, as it looked like a couple of vans had been there much, much longer, judging by the rubbish and junk surrounding them.
After dinner we were treated to a most colourful sunset.
Awoke at dawn and made my way to Maccas. Not far into the town, a deer suddenly appeared in my path. I did not see it come onto the road and to this day have no idea where it came from. It was there right in front of me, big antlers and all - beautiful!. Fortunately as one enters the town the speed limit is quite low, so no problem stopping.
Lifey
US-191 - Malta and the Canadian Border.
In Big Timber I had picked up a brochure advertising the dinner train journey out of Lewiston, over a route which had three large trestle bridges. Unfortunately, when I got to Lewsiston, I was not able to mesh their schedule with mine. Still, I thought I would seek out the trestle bridges. The first one was a mere 6 miles out of town, albeit not in the direction I was heading. There was nowhere convenient or safe to get a really good photo. The other two bridges I was unable to find, as they were too far off the main roads. It disappointed me. But there were other attractions on the menu.
At the ranger's office I was told that from Judith Peak one is able to get a 360 degree view over the surrounding mountains and country side..... without having to do any hiking. About 9 miles north of town was the turn-off onto Maiden Road.
Maiden MT, which although there are still folk living there, is officially a ghost town. A mile or two up the steep road from Maiden is a track which leads to the ghost mining camp of Maiden. The camp dates back to the gold and silver mining boom of the late 19th century.. However, it is not something you can drive into, one needs to walk in. There is a locked gate over the track.
I continued on through Maiden up to Judith peak. The road beyond Maiden was a good broad gravel road. However quite some way further up, and still well short of the Peak, the gravel turned to rocks..... including some which looked quite sharp. My fear was that I may end up with a flat tyre, and since the wheels on the van are much too heavy for me to lift, I could be stranded for a while. I turned around and headed back to the highway.
This was the second time in two days that I did not reach an intended destination. I was starting to question my ability and lack of confidence. After all, I had learned that the road to Crystal Lake is travelled by vehicles much larger than mine. And on reflection, I could have easily waited out a flat tyre, should I have been unlucky to suffer one. I had ample fuel for the van, for the camp stove, as well as ample food and water with me. And someone was bound to come along that road sooner or later... there are several communication towers at the top. There was nothing scary about the road or the area. Still fear dominated my thinking. All my survival training seemed to have been lost along the highway. I continued on my way, quite disgusted with myself.
Without any further specific attractions on my list, I drove straight through Malta and on to the Canadian Border. - the northern end of US-191. On a previous visit to Malta, the sheriff had assured me that it is possible to go almost to the border, without having to cross it. Told me just to turn around where the trucks turn.
It was a good spot. I sat there for some time observing the goings-on and taking pictures. Then it dawned on me that they were probably observing me as well. [I did not take any pictures at the border in Douglas. Somehow, with all the problems along the Mexican border, it did not seem the right thing to do]
On the way back to Malta I took some photos of the large rolls of hay in the fields, in some places scattered over the field, in other places lined up or stacked. The fields looked like freshly painted canvasses.
Imagine my surprise, when on the flight from FLL to LAX the gent sitting with me gave me his copy of the Wall Street Journal - 17th Sept. -. In the Arts section an article on Minimalist Art at Dia:Beacon on the Hudson there is mention of Carl Andre's "Joint" .....consists of an uninterrupted 252 foot-long tawny column of 126 hay bales laid side-to-side bisecting Dia's south field.
Back in Malta, mission accomplished, I checked into a motel for a couple of days of doing nothing. A storm had rolled in, it was pouring rain.
Lifey
