Wallowa Mtns, Hells Canyon & John Day Fossil Beds NM - 6/16-19
Eastern Oregon - 6/16-19
Monday, June 16
Start: Pendleton, OR
Finish: Copperfield County campground, Oxbow, OR
We had breakfast at the casino before leaving the RV/parking area which worked well for camping. Heading east on I-84 we climbed up over the Blue Mountains to La Grande, OR. We had always wanted to visit Enterprise, OR. First because of some beer we had there several years ago, when I saw how remote the town was it became a destination for us. At the Letterboxing gathering some mentioned how spectacular the scenery was in the area, so with an open agenda for the next several weeks we decided to check it out. Unfortunately a cold spell has covered Oregon this week.
As we headed up the Oregon Scenic Byway, OR 82 - Hell's Canyon, the weather got worse and worse - overcast turned into rain. By the time we arrived in Enterprise it was cold- 50 degrees and windy! We stopped at Terminal Gravity Brewpub for lunch. Excellent IPA and even better fresh Ahi tuna steak sandwich. We had planned to spend a couple of days in the area, but the weather was not pleasant for camping and hiking. We also learned that the Scenic Byway road through Hell's Canyon and the down to the Snake River would close Tuesday AM until Thursday PM for construction. So we drove on and up into a snow storm along FS39, a nicely paved road. Yes, snow on June 16!
Terminal Gravity Brewery
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Before leaving the area we drove up to Joseph and Wallowa Lake, we'll definitely come back and visit! Between Joseph and the lake is the burial site for Chief Joseph of the Nez Perce Tribe. The Nez Perce National Historical Park has numerous sites over several states to interpret the events from June through October 1877. This site has no visitor services, therefore no passport stamp.
Chief Joseph Cemetery
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Wallowa Mountains - June!
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We made a stop at Hells Canyon Overlook, part of Hells Canyon National Recreation Area (USFS) - very cold and windy at 6,000 feet. At least I was able to collect a few roadside flowers for my console bouquet - something I look forward to every summer as we drive through areas with beautiful wildflowers.
Snow along the drive
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Hells Canyon Overlook
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Flower bouquet
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The Copperfield County Park, near Oxbow Dam, along the Snake River was a pleasant surprise. For only $14($2 discount for 60 or older) the sites had electric and water. This is one of several campgrounds developed and managed by Idaho Power. Lots of shade, not needed today, but usually much appreciated. Excellent sleeping - no trains, highway noises or rain, just a few early fisherman leaving camp in the AM.
Tuesday, June 17
Start: Oxbow, OR
Finish: Union Creek Campground (USFS), 20 miles W of Baker City, OR on OR7
After a great night's sleep and a sunny morning sky we took our time in camp. Enjoyed their excellent shower facility, which I plan to write up on my Road Showers blog. We left around 11 AM and drove 23 miles north along the Snake River to the Hells Canyon Creek Visitor a Center, just past the Hell's Canyon dam. Almost as soon as we started driving it started raining, off and on all along the drive. Beautifully paved road, 2 lanes with nice shoulders and great views. We fixed lunch back at the day use area of the campground, the temperature was definitely cooler than when we left in the AM.
Visitor Center
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Snake River, N of Visitor Center
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Once back at Oxbow we headed west on OR 86 to Baker City. It continued to rain off and on, but no snow today. Made a stop at the National Historic Oregon Trail Center outside of a Baker City, OR. Highly recommend spending time at this site, one of the better centers along the trail.
The weather up ahead of us looked frightful! Dark clouds covering the mountains heading west. We forged on and stopped at Union Creek campground, along OR 7. This USFS site has full and elec/water hookups! We have a small electric heater that works well in the van. No rain when we arrived, but within an hour it started to rain. We also have a microwave - so Gourmet Dinty Moore for dinner. What makes it gourmet? Served over couscous and a splash of red wine!
Wednesday, June 18
Start: Union Creek campground, OR 7
Finish: Lone Pine Recreation Site (BLM), E of Kimberly, OR
Persistent rain most of the evening, not too loud, just a light drizzle on the roof of the van. With hookups I was able to heat water for coffee and tea to go along with an energy bar. Drove along OR 7 with rain at the beginning, then let up, but cloud cover stayed socked in until late morning. This route was following the Oregon Scenic Byway titled, Journey Through Time. The changes in elevation and scenery were beautiful. A great backcountry drive that eventually hooked up with US 26.
Oregon Scenic Byway - Journey Through Time
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As we drove across Dixie Pass, at 5279 ft, the view of the Strawberry Range with fresh snow from this week's inclement weather was pretty. Saw two sets of mule deer, mom and 2 fawns along the roadside. Stopped at multi-agency federal office; BLM, USFS & NPS offices in John Day for a variety of stamps. In Dayville stopped for city sign, pictured below and got a picture on an Osprey on pole. Had seen quite a few Osprey today as we followed the Powder, then the John Day Rivers.
Doe & Fawns
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Strawberry Range
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Dayville sign
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Osprey
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Along US 26 and west of Dayville you enter John Day Fossil Beds National Monument through a canyon cut by the Joh Day River. Just past that you turn off the highway to the visitor center and Gant Ranch. This is a repeat visit, but a chance for me to work on the Junior Ranger award. I was very pleased to see the booklet is titled Junior and Senior Ranger! The activities were challenging, even for a Senior Ranger, however you still receive the standard plastic Junior Ranger badge. We spent several hours at the Sheep Rock unit while I worked on the booklet. Ranger Michelle was very thorough in checking my booklet and enthusiastic in reciting the pledge. This is the first time I was offered an official,ranger hat to wear while reciting the Junior -Senior Ranger oath.
Ranger oath
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We continued north along the highway, towards Kimberly, with a stop at the Blue Basin picnic area to hike the short Islands in Time interpretative trail. Happily the sun was out and very comfortable to be out and about - finally!
Along Islands in Time Trail
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At Kimberly we found nothing, except a post office. A short distance to the east we camped at Lone Pine campground; five sites, along the John Day River with a vault toilet. The birding was rewarding. Four of sites taken by the evening.
Thursday, June 19
Wonderful evening and morning at the campground. Went back to Kimberly for the postal cancellation on an envelope with the John Day Fossil Beds passport stamp.
Campsite overview
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We continued along the Journey Through Time, Oregon Scenic Byway along OR 19. This part of the route followed the John Day River, very scenic. We eventually ended up at Fossil, OR. Based a number of towns we had passed through, and how remote the area was, we expected very little in terms of services. Wow, not true at all! There was even a Chevrolet dealership.
Fossil Mercantile
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After another postal cancellation, this one also for John Day Fossil Beds, but for the Clarno unit. This is one of three units and the only one we had not previously visited. This area is known for the diverse plant fossils found. Once there, over a very windy, but fun road there is not much available. Mainly it is a roadside rest with some interpretive signs.
Clarno unit
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From Clarno we crossed the John Day River a final time before heading back to Central Oregon. North of Madras we picked up US 97 and took it south to Redmond. A stop in town at the local library to print out some papers, get gas and groceries. We then took OR 126 to Sisters where we camped for the night at Cold Springs campground.
The weather and lack of planning had slowed down our Letterboxing. When we re-route ourselves, as we did this week, we haven't printed out clues for Letterboxes along the way. That isn't usually a problem because we can easily get clues via a smartphone. However, the areas we had been traveling through were so remote, most of the time, there was so little connectivity that you could barely send a text or No Service. And rain and cold don't deter many, but we are Desert Rats! This campground had several boxes in the area so we enjoyed a nice afternoon to find some boxes. While out on a trail we found the window pictured below.
Window rock - Oregon
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Passport Stamps
Oregon National Historic Trail - Baker City, OR
John Day Fossil Beds NM
Sheep Rock Unit, OR
Painted Hills Unit, OR
Clarno Unit, OR
Bonus
Wallowa-Whitman National Forest
-Wallowa Valley Ranger District
Hells Canyon NRA
National Historic Oregon Trail Center at Flagstaff Hill
USDA Forest Service - Malheur National Forest
Monument Rock Wilderness
Strawberry Mountains Wilderness
Smashed Pennies
National Historic Oregon Trail Interpretive Center - 4
Letterboxes
Monday - 4
Tuesday - none
Wednesday - 1
Thursday - 3
Wildlife Sightings
Mule Deer- including 2 sets of fawn twins
Elk
Ground Squirrel
Pine Squirrel
Lizard
American Crow
American Robin
Downy Woodpecker
Red-tailed Hawk
Turkey Vulture
Brewer's Blackbird
Red-winged Blackbird
Mourning Dove
House Sparrow
Canada Goose
Osprey
Yellow Warbler
Bank Swallow
Canyon Wren
Black-headed Grosbeak
Cedar Waxwing
Dusky Flycatcher
Black-billed Magpie
Killdeer
Wild Turkey
Canyon Wren
Western Meadowlark
California Quail
Western Tanager
Oregon moves up the list.
I too am enjoying the report and photos. Oregon is one of many possible destination options for our next trip and I think you just pushed it a little higher up the list.
Dave.
Take me to the Oregon Coast!
Friday, June 20
Start: Sisters, OR
Finish: Sutton campground (USFS), Florence, OR
Left Sisters heading west on OR 126 towards Eugene. This is another beautiful drive across Oregon, especially when it drops down and follows the McKenzie River. In Eugene we stopped at a Trader Joe's and then REI. At REI we made a purchase of a good jacket which was on sale and no sales tax in Oregon! On another trip up here we knew we needed a new transmission on our van, we waited till we got here to save several hundred dollars because of no sales tax.
We continued on OR 126 to the coast at Florence, OR. After getting a campsite at Sutton Beach we drove back down the coast to Reedsport to the Oregon Dunes NRA Visitor Center.
This brings up another Oregon story. A few years ago while camping at a USFS campground in Oregon Dunes we had a run-in with the federal forest service law enforcement. They came into our campsite, with hands at waist, on guns, and informed us our front license plate did not match the registration information they had run. We were backed into the campsite. They were on the lookout for a white van, like always! We showed them our back plate and told them AZ does not have a front plate (we have a commercial Route 66 plate on the front). They then accused us of fraud, as in Oregon the plates must match. We assured them if they ran our back plate we would be legal. We later found out they had stopped at the camp host to see what kind of people we were. All he could tell the is we were interested in the hummingbirds in the area.
Lots of wind along the coast, but our campsite was sculpted out of the dense forest so we were protected, for the most part.
Saturday, June 21
Start & Finish: Florence, OR
For the longest day of the year we managed to sleep until 8:30 AM. I think this campground gets the 'quietest' award! After breakfast we started on a letterbox quest of the area. Managed to find 6 of 7 boxes. Also did some antiquing. Found a postmark for Clinton, CA ( Lassen County), dated 1913. Post Office closed in 1915.
Sutton Beach view
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One of the letterboxes was placed to commemorate the explosion of a beached dead whale. It was recorded by a TV crew and has now been added to You Tube - watch at your own discretion. Just searching You Tube 'exploding whale, Oregon 1970'.
View of beach - today
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Another letterbox took us near the botanical site for this unique plant which Oregon has done an excellent job of protecting. The bog was full of the plant, some with stalks ready to flower. Orchid-type pitcher plant found from sea level up to 6000 ft.
Darlingtonia California
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Picked up some fresh Chinook salmon which we grilled back at camp and finished with some local strawberries - Yum!
Passport Stamps
Bonus
-Oregon Dunes (USFS)
Smashed Pennies
Florence, OR
-Mo's Restaurant
-Wind Drift Gallery
Letterboxes
Friday - 2
Saturday - 6
Wildlife Sightings
Pine Squirrel
Gray Squirrel
Chipmunk
Ground Squirrel
Turkey Vulture
American Crow
American Robin
Seagull, ?
Double-crested Cormorant
Yellow Warbler
Weekly Stats - June 15 - 21
Miles: 1113
Weekly expense: $470.58
*groceries are included in meals
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Return to Wallowa Mtns - in the future
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Mark Sedenquist
The Wallowa Mountains area has long been one of my favorite places in the west.
We are hoping to return and spend more time here, maybe later in the season!
Oregon Bound - good choice!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Southwest Dave
Oregon is one of many possible destination options for our next trip and I think you just pushed it a little higher up the list.
Good choice - Oregon has soooo much to offer. We keep coming back!
Oregon Coast: Florence to Yachats - 6/22-24
Sunday, June 22
Start & Finish: Florence, OR
We spent most of the day around Heceta Head, N of Florence on US 101. Our first order of business was a shower at Carl Washburne State Park. We discovered on this trip that all of Oregon State Park let day visitors use the campground showers for $2. And so far all of the campgrounds do not have a day entry fee. The price is posted with the other camping fees and you fill out a self-pay envelope, just as you would for camping. The showers are untied with plenty of hot water.
We spent the remainder of the day in and around Heceta Head, along US 101, N of Florence. While wandering along the Oregon Coast hiking trail we found 10 letterboxes. It was a gorgeous day, sunny skies and very little wind until late afternoon. It finally broke 70 degrees! This area includes the Heceta Head Lighthouse. Tours are available. From the state park parking lot, $5 day use fee, it is a 1/2 mile walk up to the lighthouse. Along US 101 is a free parking area (small and on the east side of the highway) with a signed trail to the lighthouse, 1-1/2 miles. The ocean views from this area are gorgeous.
Heceta Head ocean views
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Heceta Head Lighthouse
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Cape Creek Bridge - US 101
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Monday, June 23
Start: Florence, OR
Finish: Cape Perpetua Scenic Area, S of Yachats, OR
Went back into Florence for breakfast, groceries, gas and one more letterbox before heading N on US 101. Another stop stop at Heceta Head area for another try, this time successful for a missed box yesterday.
Big day on the road - Not! Drove about 15 miles to Cape Perpetua Scenic Area (USFS), a spectacular area along the coast. Besides a Visitor center with films, displays and a gift shop there are numerous trails to the beach and into the Forest. Several times we have planned to camp here, but it was either full, weather was miserable or timing was wrong, so this time I was determined to make it work. Not a problem today; sites available, good weather and timing was good.
Cape Perpetua campground sign
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After lunch and setting up camp we went back up to the visitor center for me to work on the Junior Ranger booklet. We also went out and found a few more boxes along the coast and up in the woods. Back to camp early to check out the critters. Looks like a female hummingbird found our feeder while we were gone.
An evening walk back to the beach found a large banana slug in the grass. The photo below shows it in scale to a car key. The beach area was deserted except for a few croaking frogs.
Banana Slug
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Evening beach view
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Tuesday, June 24
Start & Finish: Cape Perpetua Scenic Area
Another very quiet campground. We started the day with a hike in the Cummins Creek Wilderness, just south of Cape Perpetua. Nice road up to trailhead and no one around. We spent about 1-1/2 hours hiking along a very nice trail. Even though it was climbing in elevation the trail was smooth, no rocks or steps up or down. Hiking in the Sonoran Desert is tough, especially in and around the Sky Islands.
Trail in Cummins Creek Wilderness
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Foxgloves
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Went into Yachats (ya-hots) for a tasty lunch and then Letterboxing afterwards. The best find of the day was late in the afternoon at Vanilla Bean, a coffee house on the north side of town. The views all day long were pretty and the weather was perfect! Even saw some people in the water.
Ocean scene
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Rock art or bored vacationers?
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Beach flowers
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Passport stamps
Bonus
- Heceta Head Lighthouse
Smashed Pennies
Sea Lion Caves- N of Florence
Letterboxes
Sunday - 10
Monday - 5
Tuesday - 7
Wildlife Sightings
Townsend's Chipmunk
Gopher - as evident by grass and dirt moving on top of a burrow in campsite
Turkey Vulture
American Robin
American Crow
Hermit Thrush
Rufous Hummingbird
Steller's Jay
Western Seagull
Band-tailed Pigeon
Brandt's Cormorant
Yellow Warbler
Pacific Wren
Wilson's Warbler
