That's not even a big one!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Lifemagician
... However, I always thought porcupine were small animals. Something like an echidna. This one must have been all of three feet from nose to tail tip and at least 18" tall.
Lifey, I can guarantee that porcupines can appear to be that big. I've always equated them with the size of a larger cow dog -- their actually bodies are smaller but those nasty quills add as much as 150% size. I've run into several when I was kid -- they are impressive beasts!
They are actually pretty shy and gentle -- except when you've unintentionally cornered one... and then.... eeeeeeeyow -- Look out!
Mark
Tok Cut-Off. Glenn Highway and Anchorage.
Next day I headed straight for Anchorage, via the above highways. Once again, these were spectacular drives, and not the sort of road you just use to get from point A to B. Truly these magnificent highways are destinations in themselves.
The Tok Cut-Off runs north of the Wrangel Mountains. One is tempted to stop... continuously... to fill that SD card, once more. It was such a beautiful day. Here are a couple.
There are more in my album - US 2012.
Glennallen is known as 'The Hub of Alaska'. On my last trip, this is where I paid the highest price for fuel, in the US. However, on this ocassion, I passed straight through. It was at this point also, that my camera got a well deserved rest.
The Glenn Hwy for a large part runs along the Matanuska River. That particular stretch of the highway is two lanes, up and down and winding along beside the river. It is incredibly scenic, and I would highly recommend that if you are up this way, that you not bypass it. Unfortunately all the turnouts and rest areas are along the east bound section. The west bound section has a couple of spots to allow faster vehicles to pass. As the only highway east out of Anchorage, it is used by all truck traffic and numberous motor homes.
Since I was heading west, there was not an opportunity to take any pictures. It seemed too dangerous to cross over the double lines to the turnouts on the other side. It really is quite a busy road, especially for such a narrow winding road. (A week later I had the opportunity to drive it east bound.)
It was well before dinner time that I arrived in Anchorage and made my way to the hostel where I have stayed on my previous two trips.
The Spenard Hostel is on 42nd avenue. I remembered it as a clean and friendly place. And even though having changed hands, the culture is still the same. It is everything a hostel should be. I stayed for the recommended maximum of six nights.
Besides the two kitchens and three fridges there is ample room to store one's food. The bedrooms are clean and comfortable, though not excessively big. The beds are comfortable. I always choose a top bunk, so that I have enough light to read in bed. On this occasion I had the four bed room to myself for most of the time.
Their knowledgeable staff can help with information on travelling and local attractions and services. There are pay computers for use and free wifi. Unfortunately I had great difficulty getting a good connection, although all other guests did not have a problem. When I logged on to the hostel's wifi, instead of it coming up 'connected', it came up 'validating identity'. Much time was spent trying to find out what this meant and how to overcome it. Not even the local computer shop was able to help. Neither was the hostel's ips. (If any of you know what that meant, I am all ears.)
Much of my time was spent at the library, where I had a good wifi connection. But this did not allow me to catch up as much as I had hoped. Meanwhile I attended to necessary chores. After 7K miles, the Ford needed a service. It did not yet need my new air filter. The local Ford dealer was impressed with the vehicle.
In fact, talking about being impressed.... so far I have had many campers envious of my set up, especially those who are tent camping. And three folk have asked if/when I was willing to sell it.
All my time in Anchorage, I did not take any photos, but just spent my time roaming around town, stocking up on supplies and attending to personal needs. That is besides loafing at the hostel.
What I particularly like at this hostel is that there is no television... but there is a roster for chores. When checking in guests are asked to sign up for a 7 minute chore. I chose folding the laundry. Everyday there are sheets and towels to be folded, and it never took me all of the 7 minutes. But gave a great opportunity to interact with the management and other guests.
For those on a budget, there is the opportunity to sign up for three hours work a day (cleaning, vacuuming, scrubbing, etc.) and receive a night's free accommodation. Besides the three or four dozen dorm beds ($25/night), there is also the opportunity to tent camp on the lawn next to the hostel, and use the hostel facilities ($20/night). Even this early in the season, there were those who preferred to camp in tents.
Yeah! I would recommend the Spenard for a real hostel experience.
While in Anchorage I had the opportunity to attend five Toastmaster's meetings. At three of those there was an opportunity to speak. I had a great time sharing my story and my travels with fellow Toastmasters.
My seventh night in Anchorage was spent with a most gracious host from Couchsurfing. Austin is a school psychologist and a most interesting young man. We had many long conversations covering ever so many topics. Originally from Chicago, this is his first summer in Alaska. Before I left, rather late on Tuesday 22nd, I took him out to lunch.
The Middle Cafe serves some really nice sandwiches. I had the Tuna and salad. But the real killer was the store next door. Ended up spending another $30 on second (or 3rd, 4th, or 5th) hand true crime books. (Just as well I am going home in July, to drop off all this excess luggage. :))
My only 'low-lite' in Anchorage is a parking ticket. Wanting to get a little more information on conditions up north, I sought out the Alaska Visitor's Centre - rather than the Anchorage Visitor's Centre. I had the address and as I approached the building saw the large sign high up on the side announcing my destination. There was also a huge sign right across the front of the building. There was no mistaking I was at the right place. I duly parked and placed two hour's worth of money in the parking meter. I figured I wanted time to ask as many questions as I had... and more.
On entering the building, I was not able to find the said offices, and there were no direction boards of any kind. When people came out of the lift, I asked where to find it. It was then that I was told that they closed down a while ago... and yes, they were aware that there were still signs all over the building... and no, they were not aware that there was nothing to say that they had closed. In fact, on the internet they still showed as being open. I was advised to go to the Anchorage Visitor Centre, a couple of blocks further up the street.
Too far for me to walk, and unable to get my money back out of the parking meter, I parked at the Anchorage Visitor Centre without paying for my parking, fully aware of the risk I was taking. It was a good while later that I saw the officer place a ticket on my vehicle. Whoever it is that is in charge of parking in Anchorage, is going to receive a nice letter very soon.
Next, heading further north... in a roundabouts way.
Lifey
Glenn Highway and the Matanuska Glacier
Once back on the Glenn HIghway it is only a very short distance to a turn-out... a pretty non-descriptive, rustic turn-out. Most folk would not give it a second glance, and just speed on by. But those who are curious enough to stop, and follow the ramp to the top of the river bank, are rewarded with the sight of a magnificent glacial morain. It is here that the river, which has been cascading down the mountains, slows down and deposits its cargo... pebbles and silt.
For many miles the road curves around with the river, as it climbs. The higher it gets, the faster (and deeper) it flows.
This is the only highway east out of Anchorage, and really very busy for such a narrow road. Barriers are few and far between, mostly there are not any at all. And all the turnouts are on the river side of the road. The other side barely has a shoulder.
Once again, an incredibly scenic route.
Long after it has been visible in the distance, and before one gets to the glacier overlook, there is an interpretive way side stop. From here it is a relatively easy one mile round trip walking track to the glacier - or so it says. I did not do the walk. A little further on the glacier can be seen from the road.
By now it was getting late, and time to think about a camp for the night. When I saw the roadside sign to Glacier Park, I figured it may be a neat place to stay. The roadside office was closed so I followed the road (track) down till I came to a little one lane bridge over a very fast flowing stream.
I did not feel comfortable with what I saw at the other side of the bridge... none of which resembled a campground... or even indicated that there may be one nearby. I decided to head back up to the road.
This little track made me think that perhaps the Moki Dugway is kindergarten stuff. From what I have seen, it would certainly be wider. No way could an RV go down this track. (Which should have alerted me right at the start that it may not be a campground.)
I would hate to think what I could have done if a vehicle had come the other way... especially on the way down. When I got back up to the road, I noticed all these letterboxes.
There must be a lot of people who live down there.
Continued on to Glennallen, where I joined a couple of others at the truck stop... The Hub of Alaska.
Lifey
James W Dalton Highway - The Haul Road
Will share with you here only the highlights of this trip, so as not to duplicate everything I wrote after my last trip to the Arctic Ocean.. This time I only went as far as Deadhorse.
They've cleaned up the sign, and taken off all the stickers. I recall three years ago, it was covered with stickers.
The first thing most visitors do is visit the pipeline information centre just north of Fairbanks. This had changed quite a bit.
I noted the new exhibits, and lamented the ones no longer there.
My first stop was at the BLM information centre at Yukon Crossing. The bridge over the river here has a 7% grade.
A great run down, but one could constantly hear trucks grinding their way to the top.
Spent quite some time with Linda and her husband, who have come up for the summer (from Oregon, if I recall) to man the post. This was their first year, and they were full of information to impart. When they heard I planned to go the Arctic Circle, gave me my certificate to fill in when I crossed this imaginary line on our globe. They had brought their 38' RV up, and were camped at Five Mile campground - with their five dogs! They actually had quite a nice spot, which is reserved for the Campground Host, part of their job.
It sounded like a good place to spend the night. There were the usual primitive toilets, and bonus was, there was potable water from a constantly flowing well nearby.
Next morning, it was some 30 miles further on, on the top of a hill, that I saw a truck parked, its driver walking around. I pulled into this roadside stop.
Terry is a driver with Carlisle, and travels to Deadhorse three times a week, every week. He shared with me much about the road, and the changes he has seen in the last 15 years or so, not just to the road, but the country of the north in general.
Stopped here, high on the hill overlooking the surrounding northern wilderness, he said was one of his favourite spots to stop, get out of his truck and walk around. Then went on to tell me about a couple of other spots where he likes to stop, or spend a night. As he said, not much could be better than waking up to this magnificent view.
Further on is Finger Mountain, another great roadside stop. It seemed like a good place to have lunch.
There is a short interpretive path which winds it way through the wild flowers - just starting to bloom - to the top of the hill. The view from up there in every direction is just great.
See where the road ahead, leads.
This is also a spot truckies choose to take their break. And hey! who can blame them.
After a good hour or more at Finger Mountain, it was time to head for the Arctic Circle. I have no idea why I took so many photos here. Nothing has changed since last time. (lol)
Half a mile off the road, behind the Arctic Circle picnic ground, there is a very nice little campground... by the looks of it suitable for average size RVs.
I chose to push on to Coldfoot for the night without knowing what was yet in store. At Grayling Lake I got a nice shot of the lake, through the bushes.
Even managed to get myself into a position to take a shot of the seaplane anchored below.
There must be some sort of habitation around, though it was not obvious.
All along this road there are tankers which go up and down spraying water to help keep the calcium dust down. A couple of hundred metres north of the lake rest area is a small pull off, with a pump which these trucks use to fill. Thinking I could get to the water, I went to pull into it, when I noticed what seemed like a cat, sniffing around the pump. Of course as soon as it heard/saw me, it dashed off into the bushes. I was thrilled to still be able to get a photo of it.
Somehow, it did not look like a feral cat, so I decided to wait and see if it would come out of the bushes. After some time - quite some time - it made a move, and my patience was rewarded.
It was not really until I got this shot, that I was convinced I was looking at a lynx.
At the visitor centre in Coldfoot, it was the first report of the sighting of a lynx, this year. On the way back I saw another lynx cross the road in front of me, some distance further south.
Stayed the night at a lovely little BLM campground - Marion Creek.
Lifey
Return Journey - 'The Dalton Experience'!
It is said that some people drive the Dalton Highway, and some lucky (?) ones have The Dalton Experience!
After a good night's sleep and breakfast I went in search of the Tesero service station. It's not as if Deadhorse is that big, but it is very spread out. It was almost three miles from where I was parked to Tesero. I enquired in the office about fuel, and a lovely gent came out and filled her up for me. At the mere price of $5.50/gal. Once again I was surprised. I had expected it to be more.
Then I asked if there was somewhere where I could clean the windscreen. He told me to go ask at the workshop. The manager there - who had some connection with Australia - was only too pleased to get two of his young workers to attend to my vehicle. The order was to clean all windows, and lights.
(You see, one thing I did not consider, when purchasing this vehicle, is that I cannot reach the windscreen to clean it. So far I have been fortunate. Just by asking when I fill up, there has usually been someone who will clean it for me.)
It was cold and foggy!
It was time to head back south, back down this road with its steep grades on hills. Some up to 12%. At times you can't see the road in front of you, as you drive over the crest. It's like being on a roller coaster. At one time we saw a huge crane on a truck. There was another truck attached to the rear, to help push it uphill, and to stop it from rolling out of control on the way down. There is a wrecked vehicle by the side of the road, at the bottom of Beaver Slide. I wondered if it had been left there as a sober reminder.
This road with the ongoing construction, the pilot cars, the potholes, the dust and slush. This road which services the pipeline, draped like a ribbon over the country side. This road which beckons the adventurous to Deadhorse in all types of vehicles, trucks, cars, motorcycles and RVs. Even bicycles!
The Dalton Experience!
So it was, just as I was about to ascend Atigun Pass, I stopped to the side, to let a truck pass. As I went to pull off, something seemed not quite right. Right at that moment, two motorcyclists, who had been on the adjacent turnout, came up to warn me.... my passenger side rear tyre had blown out.
The two motorcyclists were part of a group of thirteen, who were on a conducted tour of Alaska which included Deadhorse. One of them had just had a flat tyre replaced, and their support vehicle was sitting there, on the turnout, right beside me. They told me not to worry and went back to speak to their leader.
Once the van was off the road, Brenden did an expert job taking off the injured wheel, and replacing it with my spare. It helps that he too owns an Econoline. Brenden is from CO. During the summer he runs tours for motorcyclists throughout AK. They come from all over the world to ride with him.
Having got me back on the road, Brenden asked me to stop at the first convenient spot south of the Pass, so he could check the nuts again. Which he did.
[If you are going to have a flat, make sure it is right by a turnout where you can get off the road, and then make sure there is a support vehicle present to assist. Someone up high was looking after my interests.]
That evening Brenden advised me to leave early next morning, at least earlier than he would. Said that he would keep an eye out for me, in case I had any further problems. My knight in shining armour, who would not take anything for his troubles. He should by now have found the note I slipped into his jacket pocket, while he was attending to my vehicle.
Back in Fairbanks I arrangements for new tyres, and settled back at Riverview. The plan was to spend the weekend there, and head back out on Monday morning. That was until I heard the road was closed. There was no road contact between AK and the lower 48.
I was comfortable at Riverview, and happy to stay there for a couple of more days. It is at times like this that it really puzzles me how people plan trips to the day, let alone, to the hour.
Lifey
Long-term kit needs; planning
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Lifemagician
It is said that some people drive the Dalton Highway, and some lucky (?) ones have The Dalton Experience!
(You see, one thing I did not consider, when purchasing this vehicle, is that I cannot reach the windscreen to clean it. So far I have been fortunate. Just by asking when I fill up, there has usually been someone who will clean it for me.)
I was comfortable at Riverview, and happy to stay there for a couple of more days. It is at times like this that it really puzzles me how people plan trips to the day, let alone, to the hour.
Lifey
Lifey,
Glad to know you found ready assistance at Atigun Pass. I routinely stop to render assistance, even if just to "block" for someone changing a tire (parking my truck 100' to 200' further behind, with flashers on).
In most large travel plazas, at least those along Interstates in the Lower 48, you're likely to find for sale a long-handled tool with a scrubber/sponge on one side and a squeegee on the other. That and a spray bottle of Windex are good to have on board in the event you don't find a Good Samaritan when needed.
I think total flexibility can only be arranged by the fully retired, and cheers for that group including you. Many of the rest of us are "destination oriented" meaning that we've no choice but to lay down miles to reach the places where we can dawdle and enjoy some flexibility as to schedule.
Enjoying the trip immensely! Thanks for sharing.
Foy
There's method in the madness.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Foy
In most large travel plazas, at least those along Interstates in the Lower 48, you're likely to find for sale a long-handled tool with a scrubber/sponge on one side and a squeegee on the other. That and a spray bottle of Windex are good to have on board ...
But then, how would I meet all these lovely people? distribute my business cards and give away my trinkets? Most need a break from their daily routine, and thoroughly enjoy it. Who am I to deprive them of that?
Lifey in Yellowknife
Planning is often done at distance of time and place
It's a combination thing -- I can certainly understand obtaining reservations far in advance for a special place to stay and still have near-100% unplanned road tripping before and after.
Mark
