Lifemagician's 2009 Summer Road Trip

Presumably the risk of a traffic ticket for covering the lights was less of a concern than the cost of replacing one of the lights broken by a stone thrown up from a car in front?

Funny that your trip from Dawson to Chicken was pretty much the same as ours. All I remember was the various tankslappers as we powered our way away from the ferry back towards Alaska. The number of times the trailer tried to overtake us was interesting shall we say. Didn't see a thing on our trip either and then drowned at the border crossing.

As soon as we made it into Chicken for a rest stop the weather cleared and we enjoyed a pint of Alaskan Amber in the sunshine before buying tacky souvenirs next door. It was a fun place but it was essentially just a Disney style roadhouse so I wouldn't worry that you missed anything! Did you do the pancake toss in Tok? :) Where is your next port of call??

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Originally Posted by UKCraig

Presumably the risk of a traffic ticket for covering the lights was less of a concern than the cost of replacing one of the lights broken by a stone thrown up from a car in front?

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That traffic law was not created as a money-making gambit by the local authorities. I am not a fan of day-time running lights in most applications, but I'd never drive the AlCan without running lights anytime -- day or night.

Mark

Driving with headlights on is mandatory by law in most of western Canada and all of Alaska.... at all times. And like Mark, I would not drive without them on. Many of the Bentleys had their headlights covered.

It is disconcerting sometimes, especially in the damp weather we have had, to see a car coming towards you..... at the last moment, just because the headlights were not on.

The concern of a flat battery seems to be the main reason why some do not switch them on, for fear of forgetting to switch them off. Very few of even the modern cars seem to have the function which my car at home has, of the headlights out when the key is removed.

Lifey who always drives with her headlights on for safety

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Originally Posted by UKCraig

Where is your next port of call??

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This is being posted from the library in Dawson Creek. Tomorrow Edmonton, next day Shelby MT and then straight to St Paul... Wed or Thu.

Aim to spend some time catching up on my postings.

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Originally Posted by Mark Sedenquist

That traffic law was not created as a money-making gambit by the local authorities. I am not a fan of day-time running lights in most applications, but I'd never drive the AlCan without running lights anytime -- day or night.

Mark

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Sure, sure. But the type of person who can afford to own an old rust bucket like that will often feel their money excuses them from the law. Whether that law is for their protection or not...

Hi Lifey,

I am brand new to this forum (just registered a few hours ago) and have really enjoyed reading about your adventures. I was in Whitehorse for a few days in 2006 and made a side trip to Skagway. Emerald Lake along the way was spectacular. Hope to visit Dawson on my next trip to Yukon and possibly drive up the Dempster--I look forward to searching for any field reports.

Glad you are having a safe and enjoyable trip.

In addition to Lifey, (who I guess is actually back in the states by now) Jaimie Hall-Bruzenak is on the AlCan right now and headed north. You can read her short dispatches here -- Scroll down to the table with the heading: More from Alice & Jaimie If you click on any of the subject headings you can see the complete report and photos too.

Mark

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Originally Posted by RainMan62

Hope to visit Dawson on my next trip to Yukon and possibly drive up the Dempster--I look forward to searching for any field reports.

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Dawson City is kinda fun but the Dempster is HARD going and with little reward at the end. It's up to you but personally I'd spend an extra few days elsewhere...

Craig, If you look at post #44 she's back in the Dakotas someplace and headed east....

Mark

Was actually responding to RainMan62 ;) But I feel for Lifey... the idea of heading out of Alaska is not something that would fill me with joy!! :(

Having been absent again for a short time, I'd missed Lifey's updates. I had a bout of rare insomnia last night and decided to search out your roadtrip report and I'm glad I did. Amazing photos, interesting experiences, and a gift for storytelling made this a real joy.

I look forward to more.

Hostels are great places to stay overnight when travelling almost anywhere... but they are not designed to be stuck there without wheels, especially when you are not able to even walk to the shops. So it is not surprising that on Monday, 22nd June I was glad to leave the GoNorth hostel, and head for Anchorage. It was going to be a straight run down the Parks Highway.

I had been to Denali NP in 2004, and had planned not to visit it this time. So why, when the time came, did I turn in to the park entrance? what invisible force made me turn into the park entrance?

As I approached the visitor centre from the carpark, there seemed to be quite some commotion going on. I was told that on one of the *islands* of vegetation between the carpark and the visitor centre, there was a moose and her calf. Though quite small, the vegetation was quite dense, and I was not able to see either the moose, nor her calf until....

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She checked out if the coast was clear

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then crossed over to the trees surrounding the visitor centre

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somehow communicated to her off-spring

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that it was now safe to follow mother...

...and then they were gone. It was absolute magic! and no more than five metres away from me.

Lifey,

I'm glad that no humans were injured in the filming of that sequence. There are few scenarios where I'd willingly get that close to a mother moose. One of the RTA photo contributors and a very competent backwoods explorer wrote this after seeing your photos... (Great sequence by the way!)

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Bob Brown:
I worked at the East Entrance of Yellowstone in the summer/fall of '74, '75 + '76, and I recall well the "gauntlet" of going to and from work across the East Entrance meadow. We never had any moose in a homicidal rage, but they still were not good company.

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Mark

Mark,

There were many much closer than I. The rangers were warning them and trying most unsuccessfully to keep them back. Those two (idiots!) you see in the last photo, sent the adult moose rushing into the trees, and frightened the little one so much, that it went around the opposite side of the visitor centre to its mother. They eventually reunited at the back of the building.

BTW, they were individual photos I took, not shots from a video.

Lifey who respects that they are wild animals

No arguments from me -- I was referring to those characters who were visible in the frame. I don't know where you were standing -- I just figured it was happenstance on your part to be that close....

Mark

The Parks Highway, like all the highways across Alaska has some spectacular scenery, and it is hard not to stop and take a photo.

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After crossing this bridge over the Tanana River, I noticed that there was a turnout at the southern end of it.

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I parked and with great care walked back on the bridge till I could see exactly what I had seen as I drove over it.

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It must have been challenging to establish the railway line to Fairbanks, and the many valleys it had to bridge. This was just one of them.

When I was about half way to Anchorage, fatigue suddenly enveloped me, and I feared I would fall asleep driving. Soon I saw a rest area, parked the car and lay down on my mattress and sleeping bag. It was two hours later when I awoke refreshed. A stretch, a drink and a walk around the rest area, and I was on my way again.

After a couple of nights in Anchorage, I headed down to Homer via the Seward and Sterling Hwys. This was another enjoyable slow ride... slow, because of the constant stops in turnouts

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along this All American Road.

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Turnagain Arm affords some of the best scenery and views across the water

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with glaciers as a backdrop.

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The history of change, including the earthquake destruction of Portage and Girdwood is also recorded on roadside signs. A slow, but interesting and enjoyable ride.

From there it was down the west coast of the Kenai peninsula to Homer. By now it was again raining and misty meaning I missed out on seeing Mt Redoubt, which I believe is still smoking. It was no better on the way back, it was raining that day as well.

Homer is a neat little town, focused on the fishing industry. The action is really all down on the spit, so I went for a drive down there. And yes, there was plenty of action there....

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but no parking spaces! I was really quite staggered that at this remote location it was actually so very busy and full of campers and motor homes. There was a bald eagle enjoying its catch on the top of the little lighthouse (now a shop), when another bald eagle came and attacked it. In an effort to defend itself, the first bird dropped its meal, and it was still there when I drove back up the Homer Spit. Of course this all happened far too quickly to be able to get a photo, especially since there was nowhere to legally and safely park.

On the way back to Anchorage, one approaches the Portage glaciers from the opposite direction....

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and there was another great glacier view despite the overcast conditions.

Since it was late, I decided to by pass Anchorage and continue on along the Glenn Hwy. but I took a wrong turn, and ended up in Wasilla. It was dinner time, over a meal I would think about where to go next.

Glenn Highway

For a long time now I have made a habit of asking a lone diner would they mind if I join them. I have met many interesting people this way, and this day was no exception... he was a helicopter pilot who during the summer months ferried workers to and from the more remote parts surrounding Anchorage and Wasilla. We enjoyed our dinners together, then it was time to head back to the Glenn Highway.

Since there were a few more hours of daylight I would head along the Glenn Highway and pick up whatever accommodation I found. I had absolutely no idea what magnificent sites I would see along this highway... I had not read up on it, and even though I travelled there in 2004, I am sure that I had not stopped along the way. It was to be all new to me.

When I arrived back in Palmer, I realised why I had ended up in Wasilla, I had taken the wrong turn out of the petrol station (This would not be the only time I did that).

The first turnout was also marked as a photo opportunity, and once one had ascended the embankment it was a magnificent view of the glacial waterway,

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the Matanuska River. I spent quite some time here taking many photos, but I can't possibly post them all. It really was a magnificent site, and the other folk there with me agreed. Some 50 or so miles further on I was to see the source of the water,

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the Matanuska Glacier. It was close to here that there was another turn out with the educational boards on

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the movement of glaciers and

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the moraines they leave behind. I do so enjoy reading all this roadside information.

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It was here also that I was joined by my little friend.... the magpie. He was far too interested in that juicy morcel, than worry about my presence.
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As no doubt you can see from some of the photos above, the sky was closing in on me again, and even though there were other sights - the coloured mountains and sheep mountain (I think it was called) - I did not stop again, and headed for Glenallen.

Did not like any of the places I saw there, so after giving both the car and myself a drink, and attending to other essentials, I headed down the Richardson Highway towards Valdez. Here, just a mile or so south of Glenallen is a photo stop, quite secluded and shielded from the road. I decided to join the motor home already parked there, and was asleep in no time.

Tomorrow - Valdez!

The day promised to be a great one at dawn,

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bright sunshine and clear skies. As one ascends, the elevation changes all that,

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and by the time I got to Thomson Pass I was once again surrounded by mist and rain. The views however were magnificent,

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and maybe the dullness made for better photo weather.... when it wasn't raining.

In this roughly 100 miles, there are just so many attractions, it was almost lunch time before I got to Valdez, and I had not yet had breakfast. None-the-less, I drove through the tiny settlement of Copper Center and was disappointed to find it dirty, messy and dilapidated, nothing to make for interesting photos.

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The Worthington Glacier however, was different. The lady in charge there had lived in the area for decades was a mine of information about the flora, fauna and the glaciers.

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Worthington Glacier is one which you are able to approach on foot, with the usual warnings of the danger.... ignored by so many. (The memory of the two Indian brothers killed by a falling glacier in NZ not all that long ago, is still fresh in my mind.)


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The drive through Keystone Canyon is stunning.

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The Bridal Veil Falls and

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the Horsetail Falls were just some of the waterfalls in late June.

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No wonder the river here was running a banker.

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The other stop I made was at the old town site - probably the most interesting of all.

I will let the pictures tell the story as I learned it. Trust that it is possible for you to read all the writing on these boards.

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The actual foundations of the old post office.

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Going by this list, it appears whole families were wiped out, and many children were orphaned.

Finally I arrived in Valdez and had a lovely meal with a cup of really well brewed tea in a small establishment by the waterfront. Here too, I met some interesting gentlemen - Jim and Gene from Georgia and New York. Once again, we shared experiences and plan. Of course I ended up spending much more time than had been the plan, and it was a speed run back to Glenallen... well, a speed run at 62mph...

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made enjoyable by the colourful display of wildflowers along the way.

Though it covered mostly the same ground it was by no means without interest or incident.

The final milepost

But first I had to head for Delta Junction, the formal end of the Alaska Highway. Because of my breakdown I never did get to photograph the final milepost... Milepost 1422,

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along with a few statistics.

The Pipeline

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Here also one finds some of the story of the pipeline...

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roadside boards and

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samples of the contruction

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were a little back along the Richardson Highway.

More magnificent Wildlife

By now one would have thought I had seen all the wildlife to fill a lifetime, but not so... and it was all so different. Before I even got to Tok, here was this mother moose,

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1347

obviously teaching junior which plants to eat, and how to go about it. I sat and watched them for a long time, taking ever so many photos, as mum would somehow coax the little one back to the bush on which she was feating.

Then a rumble could be heard in the distance, and mum pricked up her ears.

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As it got louder both animals were on full alert....

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until the three motorcycles came roaring round the bend, and the moose bolted into the trees. It was time for me to move on, but it was such a wonderful scene, watching that mother obviously teaching her little one.

Less than a mile further on, there was a coyote skulking beside the road. I only briefly saw it a couple of times, but not long enough or close enough to take any pictures.

And then it was down near Liard Hot Springs... at first I saw them by the side of the road, and hastened slowly and quietly... not wishing to disturb them. In vain I tried to signal to the vehicles coming in the opposite direction, who must also have seen the cub sitting on the road, but to no avail. They came roaring up, and braked violently to come to a halt, not a safe distance away, but right where mum Grizzly and her two cubs wanted to cross the road.

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A Stone mountain sheep caused an impatient driver - who had overtaken me over double lines just moments before - to brake hard in front of me, so much so, that I had to slam on my brakes not to hit him. He wanted to photograph a sheep by the side of the road. Stopped dead in the middle of the road, got out of his vehicle, walked around the back, found his camera and went to take his photos... with absolutely no regard for where he was parked, or that there was other traffic on the road. I took this photo...

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and have to admit, that I then had to cross the lines to continue on my way. How these people ever got their licence in the first place puzzles me... how they manage to retain it is even a greater puzzle.

And then there were the bison... lots and lots of them, especially where the fires had raged only weeks earlier. It seems that perhaps the grass along the road was the only food left for them. There were several heards of a couple of dozen each. (They camaflouge well against and amongst the scorched trees.)

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There were a couple of Japanese tourists in a small rented RV, who were determined to have their photos taken with the bison. I was horrified and tried to warn them, telling them to get back into their vehicle, but I do not think they understood me. I sincerely hope that the emergency vehicles I saw going up the road some time later, had nothing to do with them.

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This bloke was like many, just walking along the edge of the road. The traffic does not seem to worry them, and I now understand why they have such a high mortality rate. The speed limit in this area is - from memory - 80kph, but few respect it. I marvelled at the strength in those shoulders and was fully aware that should he decide to change course, my car would be no match for him. I stopped ever so briefly to take this photo (there was no other traffic in sight), and went on my way.

The stretch from Watson Lake to Fort Nelson is a wildlife wonderland, and it is rare to travel here and not see your share.

Later, in Montana, whilst driving on Hwy 66 near the turnoff to Lodgepole, a red necked pheasant crossed my path.

More car expenses

At home I have been really spoiled. Two and half blocks from my home is an excellent tyre establishment. I take my car here for all its needs. They have mechanics who will do the regular services and everything to keep your car running smootly and safely. For years now I have called in here every few weeks, to have the pressure of my tyres checked, and they will rotate the tyres as required, attend to the alignment etc. I never even have to think about it. Hence..........

It was while stopped for road construction by the beautiful Kluane Lake, that the flag-lady drew my attention to the state of my tyres. I felt so ashamed! The outside of my tyres were smooth... completely smooth! I agreed with her suggestion to have them swapped onto the back, and the good back tyres put on the front, for this front-wheel-drive vehicle. She gave me a reference in Haines Junction.

With the help of the local constabulary I eventlually found someone who had both time, and was willing to attend to my vehicle... the following day. When he removed the wheels from one side of the vehicle, I realised that swapping was not going to be an option... these tyres were done. And there was not a tyre to fit my vehicle in teeny weeny Haines Junction. With reference in hand, I was off to Whitehorse. Fortunately they were able to attend to my vehicle immediately, and I breathed a sigh of relieve as I drove out on my brand new front tyres.

This little hiccup did however put my side trip to Skagway and Haines on the back burner, for maybe another time. On the flip side, it means that for the first time, in my four trips on the Alcan, I actually did the complete length of it in one unbroken trip... albeit from '1422' to '0'.

I doubt that by now, I had had half a dozen days on the road when it did not rain, and it was to continue on my way to Edmonton. The Garmin Nuvi is also next to useless when it comes to places in Canada. It is supposed to have the maps, but the results do not support that theory. Not being able to find anything which suited me in Edmonton, and not having a decent paper map of the place, I decided to stop for dinner and then head on to one of the camp grounds in Red Deer, an hour or so away.

It was whilst heading that way that the reports of severe storms, and then funnel clouds, and finally of heavy hail and a twister touch down kept coming over the radio. They kept mentioning the very place where I was heading... the very road on which I was travelling. Then they went on to recall the tornadoes which have hit this area in the past, and the loss of life caused by some of them. The name of the camp ground where I was heading kept coming up. I decided I would get the hell out of this area as soon as I could and continued on to Calgary. It was a very long day, but in Calgary I knew where I could stay without needing further directions.

Next day, 5th of July, I crossed the border on I-15, to Shelby MT. Just before the border there is an excellent Duty Free shop where I decided to spend the last of my Canadian $$$. Four bottles of Jim Bean / Johnny Walker would go down well with the family and friends. Then the lady informed me that I could only take one bottle across the border, and I would have to pay duty on the rest. Decided to take only one bottle.

And then... at the border, no one enquired about what I had with me. They only wanted to know whose car it was and where I was heading. The sniffer dog was not the slightest interested in the contents of my vehicle... and I hate to think what the inspector. who insisted on opening the back, thought. Such a mess!

Hwy 2

I had read about Highway 2 across Montana and Northern Dakota, in Road Trip USA, and am convinced that this contributed to my enjoyment. It is a good road. Just enough traffic to stop one from falling asleep... not too much to spoil the enjoyment. A two lane highway across Montana, and mostly a divided road across North Dakota. Patchwork fields of green and bright yellow (canola) across much of the rolling hills. Keen to get back to St Paul, for a rest, the only place I planned to stop was in Rugby - the centre of North America.

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But plans do not always come out the way they are 'planned'. At Harlem I stopped for a rest and something to eat. It was a quiet rest area, and I was happy to see it and be there. Fully refreshed after my late lunch, I set off again, oblivious to the fact that I turned into the wrong road. If I had just looked at my satnav, I would have known. Needless to say, I did not. The scenery was really grand,

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and I enjoyed driving through, what the sign said, was the Little Rocky Mountains.

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It was not until I stopped at these boards and saw the sign indicating Hwy 191, that I knew where I was.... and that I had gone the wrong way. LOL

Other sights which interested me enough to take a photo were:

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Still wondering about the old sore head!

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Kremlin is expecting a bumper harvest! As you can see here, the storms are still following me.

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At Havre... the first line of defence! It was pointing north... maybe they know something the Pentagon is unaware of.

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I wondered how the seed for that tree got there... on these treeless plains.

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Hwy 191 - on the way back to Hwy 2.

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There is something serene and peaceful about the wide open plains.

It was on the evening of 7th July, that I called my friend in St Paul to tell her I would be arriving late the following afternoon. She informed me that her husband would be home, but she would be going to a concert with friends.

"What is the concert??"

"An Evening with Il Divo."

"Wow!!" I went on to ask her if she could possibly see if there were anymore tickets available, which she said she would. I would call her from Fargo ND, the next day to see how she got on.

The ticket was duly obtained, and I did a non-stop run from Fargo to St Paul, arriving at 3.35pm... a quick shower and change... and off we were to an early dinner before the concert.

It was a night, Oh! what a night it was, it really was... Such a Night!!

A most perfect way to wind up my northern trip / adventure.

Lifey who will be off to Boston in the morning

Lifey,

I'm so pleased you were able to figure how to post your photos -- really some great field reports and like you, I hope the Japanese couple survived their encounter with the bison!

Mark

Great report - makes me want to go back right now!

Sympathies for the further expense. Speaking as someone whose van broke its gearbox this morning I know how frustrating these sudden unexpected costs feel!

Browsing your excellent journal Lifey has been a great pleasure; it must have taken you some time and effort to put it together. Thank you.

Too many interests to comment on – so just one. The drive from Anchorage along the Turnagain Arm of Cook Inlet is a memorable drive and must rate being one of all top drives. Always been a top fan of Capt James Cook – born not too far from my birthplace in Yorkshire.

It was a great joy a couple of years back to visit the Big Island and kayak across the bay to his not too easily accessible memorial.

Wow ! After being away for a few days I just caught up with your trip report and it continues to blow me away, great stuff Lifey !


One day, maybe one day .......................

19th June, 2009

At the end of this road lay the reason for coming to Alaska. In 2006 I had the great fortune of standing on the Ross Ice Shelf and in the Antarctic waters. Now I wanted to stand in the Arctic Ocean.

Having both read and heard many tales of woe about the Haul Road, I determined not to drive; instead take a tour. After some research on the internet and through the brochures and posters at the GoNorth hostel, I settled on a small tour company called 1st Alaska Outdoor School.

Small because they use a small van and in our case, a very small group. There was John, the driver, a couple from Philadelphia PA, my Italian room mate at the hostel, and myself. All with different interests, all looking forward to the adventure. We had more than enough room in the 12 seater van.

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Up to Livengood it is a good paved road.

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But then, that is the old road... that is where the road once ended. All that changed in 1974, when the Haul Road was completed.

The first place of interest along the road is the Pipeline visitor centre, which at this early hour was not open. The Information on the boards and the outdoor displays, as well as being able to walk right up to the pipeline and touch it - everyone has to touch it! - gives the full story... and more.

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The Pipeline

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The Pig

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The Directions
(There are many more pictures here. I can't possibly post them all.)

Soon we were to come to the official start of the James W Dalton Highway.

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At first a good paved road... maybe just to get you in. It does not last long, and then...

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(We did eventually overtake that tanker, which was travelling at a snail's pace.)

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It is even designated as a Scenic By-way.

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For the whole length it is incredibly scenic in a raw untouched sort of beauty. (Note the wet road. For most of it there are water tankers keeping it sprayed to minimize the dust. There is also a lot of oil on the road.)

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And yes... that does say: next 416 miles, though we rarely travelled that fast, other than on paved sections. To minimize damage both from stones thrown up by other vehicles, and the sharp stones and flint on the road's surface, most (sensible) drivers travel very slowly. Even so, the van got a large star about an inch in diametre, right in the middle of the windscreen. It is rare to see a vehicle in Fairbanks without some windscreen damage.

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The pipeline was often the main attraction, especially when it was quite close to the road. The pump stations are out of bounds. It would have been interesting to go in and see one of them.

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And when we got to the Yukon Crossing there was another Pipeline information centre. Here the pipeline was well out of reach, even though we could pass underneath.

Up to this point the road is really in very good (unpaved) condition, and the Yukon Crossing is a popular destination for campers and fisherman alike. Here there is a roadhouse, accommodation (of sorts), meals and souveniers.

Next stop was Finger Mountain.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1388

We went for a short hike here along the trail and viewed

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1389

the wildflowers

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1390

and scenery. The information boards on the trail told of the area's wildlife - though we did not see any at this location.

Not long after that was the Arctic Circle....

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1391

the highlight for so many. We were duly presented with our certificate stating that we had crossed the Arctic Circle. (I don't recall us getting one when we crossed the Antarctic Circle.)

From the Yukon River north the road is officially known as The North Road. All the information is here:

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1392

I hope you can read all of this, as it is so interesting to read about the history of the road and why it was needed and what they did before it was built.

As we approached our destination for the day, we got a glimpse of what tomorrow had in store.... the Brooks Range.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1394

On that first evening we had dinner in Coldfoot, at the truckstop... the only place! Great food... all you can eat for less than $20. There were quite a few at dinner, including a full load of passengers off a tourist bus, truck drivers and maybe even the occupants of the large RV parked in the RV park.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1395

After dinner many of us went over to the Arctic Interagency Visitor Centre across the road, for a talk to be given by a ranger on owls of the Arctic. This was especially of interest to the couple from Pennsylvania who are both birdwatchers, and were hoping to see some rare ones whilst up north.

By the time we headed back to our lodgings - 12 miles from Coldfoot - the storm had broken and we were treated to one of the most brilliant rainbows I have ever seen.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1399

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1402

We were all tempted to go find that pot of gold.

Once again, I took more than a dozen pictures of something so brilliant, one just could not stop hitting that shutter. A few more can be seen here.

Back at our abode, a quick shower, a drink and bed.

We stayed at the Borreal Lodge in Wiseman. Here there are four bedrooms, each with two single beds. A fully functioning kitchen and two bathrooms... one with washing machines. I was surprised to read the brochure which was left in the room. Rates for summer - single occupancy $70; dual occupancy $90. And this after all the horror stories I had read about the cost of staying in Prudhoe Bay... being charged $140 for sharing a room with four others.

Tomorrow the Arctic Ocean!

20th June, 2009

The day dawned bright and sunny as we embarked on our last 200 miles to Pruhoe Bay - 5 to 6 hours driving time. The official tour at Prudhoe Bay which takes visitors behind the security through the BP installations and on to the Arctic Ocean, takes place at 17:00 hours. It was decided therefore that we could sleep-in, and leave around 9.30am.

Breakfast that morning was out of the cooler, for those who had not brought their own. We all made good use of the kitchen, and sat and chatted over a cuppa before leaving.

Often we could see the road way up ahead, as here, going up the side of these moountains.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1465

We watched with interest as trucks negotiated this stretch. No guard rails here. (This scene is also seen on the board entitled The North Road in the posting above.) Truck traffic never stops on the haul road, and in winter when the road is frozen, this section must be a real challenge. (I could not help thinking of Ice Road Truckers Hugh, JT, and others taking on this challenge.)

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1425

By the time we reached the highest point of this road,

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1426

we had driven through some beautiful mountain scenery.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1432

Then someone called out 'goats'! (We realised later that they were actually Dall Sheep.) Fortunately we were right by a large turnout for trucks going up the pass.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1430

We must have been here for more than 30 minutes, as the sheep - three adults and two lambs - slowly ate their way down the mountain and came within reasonable - but still far away - photo distance.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1431

One really wonders what they eat on that rocky slope.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1427

Through the pass the road is quite wide and solid gravel, with guard rails....

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1428

though it seems some have challenged them.

On the northern side of the Brooks Range lies the Tundra... the endless treeless plains... the land of mirages... all the way to the Arctic Ocean some hundred miles away.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1439

This area has a beauty all of its own. To think that just a few inches below this vegetation is the permafrost.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1449

In Prudhoe Bay they have special vehichles - monsters - which are able to drive over the tundra, without damaging it.

The only wildlife we saw on the way up was a lone Arctic Fox. This was to change later that night on our way back. The birdwatchers were also thrilled to see a short eared arctic owl fly off, just as we passed by where it was hiding in the tundra. If it had not been for the lecture on the previous evening, none of us may have been able to identify it. These nocturnal creatures have adapted well to their treeless environment... in the land of the midnight sun.

And the midnight sun it truly was. Those of you who noted the date on these posts will be aware that we took this tour on the weekend of the longest day (in the northern hemisphere).

On our arrival in Prudhoe Bay our driver took us for a quick tour of the place. There was great excitement when the birdwatchers noticed a Bespectacled Eider Duck in one of the ponds.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1450

This apparently rare creature was the only one of the four eider ducks which they had never seen, and it appears one about which very little is known.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1447

Another great attraction is the Prudhoe Bay National Forest, then on to some retail therapy... and of course I fell for some of the tacky souveniers... ye gotta have them!

When it came time for our official tour, our driver went to have a quick meal and a sleep to be refreshed enough for the long hours back to Wiseman.

After the security formalities and a brief video the bus took us all around the BP site and on to the Arctic Ocean, where we were allowed to disembark. At last, my long wait was over. Here I was at the edge of the water. The sand/gravel/rocks all around were black, as was the ocean floor. It is therefor no surprise that the water was warm in the middle of summer. Solar heating at its best! And yes, that is ice you see in the distance.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1451

I promptly removed my shoes and socks and donned my thongs, which I had brought along to protect my feet from any sharp rocks. I waded into the warm water. (Others were preparing to do the same.) My Italian room mate had my camera... all bases covered.

To my surprise, the sand started sucking me down... first my feet and when it was almost up to my ankles, I became concerned which quickly turned into panic. In the process of trying to extract one foot, the other just sank deeper and I over-balanced. Trying not to fall into the water, I reached out to a large piece of ice at the water's edge. By this time those watching realised that I was not just reacting to "cold water", and rushed to help me. My feet were firmly stuck, and the thongs just made getting them out all the harder.

Once I was fully extracted - with the help of some of my friends - I sat down on a nearby (driftwood) log, cleaned my feet and put on my shoes. Then I asked about the photos, only to have this lovely lady tell me that she could not work the camera.

And that folk, is why you will just have to take my word for it.

Next morning at breakfast in Coldfoot I spoke to one of the passengers off one of the tour buses, and asked him to check if any of the others on the bus had by any chance got a photo. To date I have not heard, so I guess the answer is "no".

Dinner in Prudhoe Bay was a grand affair.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1448

We ate at the Caribou Inn, cafeteria style, along with dozens (if not hundreds) of the workers. For us it was a $20 all you can eat. The selection was incredible. Two different soups along with other appetisers, at least four main meals of beef, pork, chicken and pasta, a good variety of vegetables, and potatoes done every which way. There were desserts to put inches on the hips and cakes to die for. And to wash all this down there was every type of non-alcolholic beverage you can think of. We left well satisfied.

It was now time to go wake up our driver.

I had not expected the journey back to be anything special, and was ready to sleep through it... little did I know.

Not long after heading south someone spotted a herd of muskox in the distance. I need to emphasize 'distance', because it was even hard to make them out with binoculars. We had been told that up till two days ago they had made their home right in the middle of the BP installations.

And then came the caribou... herds and herds of them. The large herds were far too far away from the road to get any meaningful pictures.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1455

There were however a sufficient number of stragglers near the road, as well as ones which insisted on crossing the road right in front of us, to get some great shots.

Then there were the photo opportunities as we neared the mountain range.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1457

With the clouds hanging low over the mountains, and the sun some 20 degrees above the horizon the colours were truly spectaular...

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1460

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1459

the photos don''t really do them justice. By now it was close to midnight.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1462

An then there is the ever present pipeline!

21st June, 2009

Up until now we had been driving on what I considered to be a good road for the area, in light of all the doom and gloom I had heard. All that was to change!

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1466

I had heard the rain start soon after we went to bed... and it did not let up all day.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1467

This was our chance to drive the road in the rain... a muddy road with a bit of slip and slide built in.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1468

Once again, driving slowly and carefully, it should not present a problem for all but the most inexperienced driver, the impatient or the extremely low slung vehicle. (I grew up with roads worse than this, in country Victoria... more than half a century ago.)

This road, which along 95% of it, is wide enough for two trucks to pass, is a good rough road. Only in some of the mountain areas and over some bridges would two trucks side by side be challenged.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1421

Many areas are full of potholes. Lots of it is washboarding.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1397

The loose gravel is ever present. In the wet it is slippery and sliding.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1452

Roadwork is constant along the complete length.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1436

Even paved sections are no speedways with the cracks and holes in the pavement.

Still, of all the folk with whom I spoke, who drove the highway with their two spare wheels, etc., only one had a flat tyre... and he picked up a 1" nail in Prudhoe Bay. He had his tyre repaired locally, and drove back to Fairbanks on it.

In the parking lot at the Caribou Inn and other establishments, there were many four wheel drive vehicles and those bulky macho truck things. Parked in between were the SUVs and the ocassional sedan, as well as large tour buses and at least one full size motor home. I spoke to several travellers along the AlCan who had taken their motor home up to Prudhoe Bay, and without exception, all said that going slow and with great care, they managed fine.

Accommodation along the road consists of several campgrounds and lodges at Wiseman and Coldfoot, as well as Yukon crossing. There are quite a lot of rest areas along the road, and about half a dozen have primitive toilet facilities. Camping is permitted all along the road and detailed guidelines are provided. We saw many folk camping, some just in their motor home or camper, others who had pitched tents. They were by the rivers and creeks, in small turnouts and in the rest areas.

God willing, I will get back there and drive it myself. But it will have to be in a vehicle for which I have paid... a vehicle which belongs to me. The windscreen and paint damage from the flying gravel is unavoidable. It may be minimized by keeping a good distance from the vehicle in front, and slowing down for oncoming traffic, but it cannot be avoided.

My concern.

My great concern is that one day this road will be paved and will end up being a busy highway with the commercial trash which one now sees all along the Alaska Highway.

Paved highways generally cause less environmental degradation over time. I really appreciate your photos -- especially since you had to load them twice....

Great report.

Mark

I was well rested when I set out from St Paul MN to return to Newton MA. During those six days I had stocked up on supplies, caught up on all that which I had neglected and returned to a degree of domesticity. My intention had been to completely by pass Chicago... either take the ferry from Milwaukee or go down to Normal or Bloomington and head east from there. True to form, my best laid plans were to change. It was Bob, whom I had met at Athabasca Falls in the Canadian Rockies, and a native of Chicago, who had learned of my opinion of this city. He was determined to change my mind.

The invitation was to come and stay with him and his wife, and he would show me the best of the city, and the area around where he lives... Orland Park. On Tuesday 14th July we spent the morning touring around the local district, while at the same time attending to some necessary messages. The whole trip I was priviledged to listen to a commentary from a local about the layout of the area, the benefactors who contributed so much to the area, the community, etc. It was just a great way to see the place through the eyes of a local.

The afternoon took the three of us into the city, the Buckingham Fountain, the Millenium Plaza, Sear's Tower, and all the other landmarks which they are so proud to show a visitor. It was almost dark when we ended up at a river side restaurant for dinner. Next morning I had to move on towards Boston, and Bob relished in his success of changing (at least some of) my mind about Chicago... a city he loves!

I-80 to Brookville PA on the first day, then onto I-81 / I-88 / MassPike to Newton where my daughter-in-law and grandchildren (son was away at work) were ready to welcome me. It was 62 days since I had left with the destination - Alaska. It was so great to see them all again.

Here is a summary of where my precious dollars went during the trip from Newton to Alaska and back. I have no idea how to calculate the difference between US and CA dollars, especially since my conversion was from AU dollars. And I do not know how either stands against the AU dollar.

16/5 to 17/7 - 13.660 miles.

Accommodation

6 nights with family
9 nights with friends
12 nights at truck stops
2 nights on the trip
2 nights at wayside stops
15 nights in RV parks - US$74.50...CA$288.76
11 nights in hostels - US$255.00...CA$24.00
5 nights in motels - US$201.43

Total: US$530.93...CA$312.76

Fuel

US: 391.34 gallons cost $1020.79 for an average of $2.609p/g.
CA: 170.65 gallons (634.93 litres) cost $690.54 for an average of $4.047p/g.
Highest price per gallon in US - $3.399 - Glennallen AK.
Highest price per gallon in CA - $4.684 ($1.249 per litre) - Fort Nelson.

Other Costs

Vehicle maintenance and repair - US$847.83...CA$451.14
Groceries, including eating out - US$597.63...CA$214.79
Internet - US$9.90
Sundry camping requirements - US$44.45...CA$14.49
National Parks Pass - US$80.00
Trip to Prudhoe Bay - US$725.00
Gifts and souveniers - US$154.23...CA$93.41

Vehicle maintenance and repair, even though high, is nowhere near as high as it would have cost to rent a car. And although I was frugal, at no time did I skimp on something I really wanted, nor on healthy food.

This is the first time I have done a summary of a trip, and I must say, I am most pleased with the result. It is good to know where the money has gone.

Lifey

And what an incredible 62 days ! Even though you spent time with family and friends it's amazing how you kept the lodging costs so low, well done!

I have really enjoyed your reports, thanks !

All of your costs are considerably less than I can travel on. Excellent work and thanks for sharing all of this data, (which I've copied to the Research Reports section of this site)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mark Sedenquist

All of your costs are considerably less than I can travel on.

---

Mark, it is really quite simple.... if you don't have it, you can't spend it. And there is simply no way I will go into debt, that would spoil the enjoyment.

As the old saying goes - Necessity is the mother of invention.

Lifey who feels honoured to be a 'research report'

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lifemagician

Mark, it is really quite simple.... if you don't have it, you can't spend it.

---

If we had waited until we had enough money, RTA and all of our other business operations would never have been created. We operate on debt on a continuing basis -- at this point, it's hard for me to even imagine being able to run any sort of business on a cash basis. I suppose it would lead to less stress... but I doubt it.

Mark

Spectacular:

Trip
Report
Photos

I wanna go too!

Thank you so much for sharing this.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mark Sedenquist

If we had waited until we had enough money, RTA and all of our other business operations would never have been created....... Mark

---

Mark, there is no comparison. A holiday is a consumable - a bad debt. Just like a mortgage, an investment in a business is a good debt.

My next trip is to take me down south... destination Key West.

It was on the Sat morning (25th July) that I left Newton MA, first to meet up with the lovely lady I had met at Blandford Plaza on the MassPike, way back in May. A total stranger, and yet, over a drink and a snack, we talked for hours. It was time to get a move on....

Down route 1 to I-295 which took me around Providence and east on route 44... Nothing particularly outstanding, just pleasant driving through one small town after another. Yes, I know, there were lots of traffic lights for which to stop, but then, there were also lots of shopping malls to pull into for a break and something to eat.

And so it was that mid afternoon I pulled into the parking area at a Stop & Shop in Putnam CT. I had a bread roll, some butter and some cheese, and set about making a drink and a snack. It was then that I became aware of the music which was being played throughout the parking area... my type of music... music from the 50's.

The parking lot was half roped off with yellow tape, and there were a dozen or more classic cars there... real cars!! not the flimsy plastic things we drive today. American cars of the 50s and 60s. Cars from when the American car was the envy of the world. When America was the world leader in automobile manufacture. When everyone I ever knew dreamt of owning an American car.

They kept coming, more and more and more...there seemed no end to it. The people in charge enlightened me, this was a regular Sat afternoon (4pm-8pm) gathering of American classics, hotrods and muscle cars, all lovingly maintained and polished. This was a meeting of Cruise America, to raise funds for charity. I was told that they sometimes get more than 400 cars take part.

I drooled!!

It was my inability to walk any further that stopped me taking more photos than I did. I could have just continued on till they all went home, but alas!

Somehow I never get tired of these local events in small town America.

Here are some of the photos, there are lots and lots more here.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1469

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1470

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1471

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1474

http://www.roadtripamerica.com/forum...pictureid=1499

Lifey who is still drooling a week later

I loved your report from your trip to Prudhoe Bay - reminded me of our own trip up the Dempster. I suspect it was considerably more comfortable in your van (4 up) than ours (fully loaded with 13 people and heavy trailer)

Have you arrived in Key West yet? You have to spend the night on the Dry Tortugas if not! Very cool :)