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As Dave mentioned, those are perfectly good roads, but they are mostly 2 lane roads, and more importantly, they go through some pretty remote, unpopulated areas.
If the roads are clear, it's a great and very scenic drive, but if there is a chance of bad weather, I would look for other routes. It will likely take a far bit of time for such roads to be cleared and treated, and you'll have long distances between places to stop to wait out a storm if needed.
Thank so much....its funny cause I am sitting here watching it snow in Seattle...hahahaha I will be good to go once I get thru Utah.....I think.....hahahahaQuote:
Originally Posted by Midwest Michael
You don't give an indication as to when you "hope" to arrive but one of the most important things about long journeys is allowing yourself enough time to cover the distance safely, even moreso in the winter. Unfortunately, as good as electronic mapping can be, timing is totally unrealistic in the 'real world' and many people fall into this trap. Your trip is a fine example of where a mapping program will tell you that Seattle to Dallas is a 31 hour journey !! In a virtual world where machines have no need to stop for fuel, food, sleep or to stretch those limbs and drive at the speed limit for every minute of those 31 hours without congestion, construction or weather delays, just possible. For us mere humans, not even close !! This journey will require a minimum of 3 overnight stops and the best part of 4 days to complete safely and should you get caught up in a storm, maybe an extra one. You are likely to average 55-58mph over the course of a day on the road taking into consideration all the above points, that's 10-11 hours on the road each day before checking into a hotel and having a meal, checking out again after a decent breakfast and shower. This will be a marathon and not a sprint, so if you plan to set out at 4am don't be fooled into thinking that you can drive until 7pm and do it again the next day, fatigue is a killer !! Although it's good to be prepared for the weather, it's not the only safety factor to consider. Good luck, safe travels and let us know how you get on when you arrive. (Of course come back and ask any questions you need to before departing or while travelling)Quote:
I plan on a 5am start time Friday....
Dave.
Below zero temps here in Colorado. Be SURE that the coolant in your car is fresh and can handle sub-zero temperatures.
Driving in sub-zero isn't bad if the roads are dry though I had my steering act locked up because I hadn't moved the wheel in some time (straight interstate) and the power steering fluid was really, really cold.
Since then I've put an adjustable radiator cover on the vehicle for trips in potential sub-zero temps. No steering issues since and the cabin heat works better and the motor oil stays cleaner.
I did not set an arrive time.....I am a pretty decent road tripper.....this will be my first time driving the Utah, Colorado routes.....I am still considering taking the coastline down to Bakersfield and crossing over if I see any indication of winter weather....at my age now I am just not going to chance it....Thanks so much for the advise....I will keep ya posted.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Southwest Dave
Thanks so much....I just had the car in yesterday for oil change, fluid fill ups, filters replaced and a complete car check.....tires are just about brand new all weather tires....I appreciate the advise!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by noFanofCB
That may be wise with what's going on right now. Take I-5 to CA-46 to CA-99 to CA-58 to I-40. You can take US-287 from Amarillo to Dallas, it's almost Interstate quality. However, this does add about 400 miles to the trip.Quote:
I am still considering taking the coastline down to Bakersfield and crossing over if I see any indication of winter weather.
Yea....I am just going to take Hwy 5 to Bakersfield and crossover on 40......atleast I will see parts of Cali I have not seen before....Quote:
Originally Posted by glc
Thanks do much for the sound advise
Ron, do you have a photo of what that looks like and how you attached it?Quote:
Originally Posted by noFanofCB
Sounds like a really clever solution.
Mark
Photos of Ron's Radiator Cover and more explanation here:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Sedenquist
Hmm. No pix that I recall. I'll try to remember to take pix when I take it off after winter.
Here's a description- (move this somewhere else on the forum if you want to)
I made it out of fabric weed barrier cut higher and wider than the radiator body opening.
Across the top I stapled the fabric to a 1x.25 in lath strip that runs most of the way across the radiator opening.
I tied a string thru a drilled hole on each end of the lath strip and routed the strings up thru the frame to the top of the radiator/battery area. I use cord locks (like your jacket hood drawstring has) to adjust the length of the string. Product improvement saw use of very large washers with duct tape used as cord lock stoppers and some knots tied in the string which help the cordlocks hold.
The bottom of the fabric is tucked under a large magnet that holds it down. The magnet has a lifting ring on it. I tied a string from the middle of the lath strip down thru the magnet ring and out thru the radiator grill where I can reach it. This string is to help open the shutter because the fabric drags on the air conditioning condenser that lives in front of the radiator. The fabric and lath aren't heavy enough to drop by themselves so they have to be pulled back down to open the shutter.
Closing or opening the shutter requires opening the vehicle hood to manipulate the cord locks on the strings that holds the lath up.
When driving in sub-zero temps I'll have the shutter pulled most of the way up but I still have a few inches exposed for airflow. At interstate speed this is all that's needed. Around town the shutter would need to be open further as the lower speed airflow wouldn't be so chilling.
I mentioned oil- The one time I was going to/from Washington in subzero at interstate speeds without the shutter I found that my motor oil was very, very black upon return. Prematurely black. I believe this was because the motor was never really fully warmed up so the computer was giving it a richer mixture than normal. But I didn't take an oil sample to prove that theory.
Edit add- Idling oil pressure after a sustained interstate run was nowhere near as low as it should have been - another indication of not fully hot.