Utah, Idaho, Colorado, Montana & N California - May/June 2016

Friday, May 20, 2016

Start: Red Canyon, UT
Finish: Bullfrog Campground (NPS), Bullfrog, UT @ Glen Canyon NRA on Lake Powell

Woke up to an overcast sky and winds getting stronger, it was predicted to have winds up to 40 mph throughout the region today. We enjoyed a good breakfast at The Pines, just up the road from Red Canyon and before you turn into the road for Bryce Canyon NP. We've eaten there before and have always enjoyed the food and prices.

After stopping at the visitor center for Bryce Canyon NP we drove over to the parking area near Sunrise Point. I hiked down into the canyon about 1/2 mile before I realized I had not brought water. Even with the wind the hiking was great, not too cold or too warm. I exercised good judgement and went back to the top, happy to get some water when I got back to the car.

Bryce Canyon
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Before leaving the area we drove out on a remote road to find a letterbox near a rural cemetery. Back on Highway 12 we went to the Cannonville Visitor Center for the Grand Staircase-Escalante NM (BLM). This is a beautiful building with nice plantings outside. I watched the film for the monument as a part of their Junior Scientist program. Further up the road we stopped at their visitor center in Escalante for a final activity and while there received the Junior Scientist badge. We have always enjoyed watching and trying to identify lizards. The apps I have for lizards have not been detailed enough for what we see in our travels. This visitor center has a larger than life collared lizard sculpture and to our delight the bookstore had the definitive book on Southwestern lizards, 77 species identified with photos.

Collared Lizard sculpture posing with book
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Once we reached Boulder along Highway 12 we were taking new road - the Burr Trail. This road runs from Boulder to Bullfrog, on Lake Powell. It is a 75 mile dirt road, but about 2/3 has been paved with the middle section still dirt, but well graded and suitable for any 2 W/D vehicle in good weather. (Always check with any number local authorities to verify the condition of the road, follow any rental agreement restrictions and use common sense.) We were assured the road was in good condition for our cargo van.
The Burr Trail was created by John Atlantic Burr in the late 1800s to move cattle between winter and summer range through very rugged country; Waterpocket Fold, Burr Canyon and Muley Twist Canyon. Today this trail traverses through Grand Staircase-Escalante NM (BLM), Capitole Reef NP (NPS), Glen Canyon NRA (NPS) and BLM land. The drive was spectacular - I almost got tired of looking! The section through Capitol Reef NP and some BLM land remains unpaved to maintain the historic conditions. It is in this section that you drop down through a series of switchbacks at 12% grade for one mile. The road is wide enough for 2 cars and for the most part smooth, some washboarding in sections. The last 25 miles to Bullfrog is paved and appreciated. It took us 2 hours to travel the 75 miles.

Burr Trail
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Once at Bullfrog we were pleased to see the visitor center for this section of the Glen Canyon NRA open, they have the only NPS Centennial stamp for this park unit, not at Page or other sections that are a bit more accessible. There is a fully paved road which heads north through Hanksville, UT to I-70. For some odd reason they were sent the only NPS Centennial stamp for this unit and I was able to confirm its existence for our club, National Park Travelers Club. Mission accomplished!

Glen Canyon NRA - NPS Centennial stamp
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The wind remained strong all day and was not conducive to sitting out at the campsite. Luckily at Bullfrog there is a lodge with a restaurant. We enjoyed some local beer and a pizza while overlooking slickrock.

Slickrock view from bar
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Wildlife Sightings

Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel
Pronghorn (adult with juvenile)
Least Chipmunk
Red Squirrel
Rock Squirrel

Great-tailed Grackle
Common Raven
Western Bluebird
Turkey Vulture
Black-billed Magpie
American Goldfinch
Mourning Dove
Black-chinned Hummingbird

Saturday, May 21, 2016

Start: Bullfrog, UT
Finish: Nephi, UT

The wind stayed strong all night long and was predicted to blow all day today. After showers (no fee) next to the laundromat, we headed north on UT 276 and UT 95 to Hanksville, then west to Capitol Reef National Park. The drive up, all on paved roads was beautiful, but not quite as spectacular as the Burr Trail.

Flowers along the way
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Before we reached Capitol Reef National Park we had decided to not camp and get over to I-15, good plan because when we arrived at the campground, by noon, it was full. The parking lot to the visitor center was the busiest we had ever seen.

Capitol Reef NP parking
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Capitol Reef NP
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We drove into Torrey and had a delicious burger at Slackers, highly recommended! The drive over to I-15, ending in Nephi was uneventful, but beautiful. The mountains were snowcapped and the creeks and rivers were running strong. Oh, and the wind was still roaring!

Wildlife Sightings

Mourning Dove
Black-billed Magpie
Violet-green Swallow
American Coot
Red-winged Blackbird
European Starling
California Gull

Sunday, May 22, 2015

Start: Nephi, UT
Finish: Wolf Den RV Park, Etna, WY

We stayed at the Motel 6 on the south edge of Nephi. This was one of the nicest ones we have stayed at, and for less than $50 for 2. The laundry room was clean and the machines worked well. In the morning I was able to get hot water for my tea. Coffee is routinely provided, a few have tea, but most do not. It was $20 cheaper than the next Motel 6 in Provo, less than an hour away. Where we stayed did not matter so the rate was great and the facility top-notch.

No wind this AM! After a quick breakfast we headed north on I-15 and went up to Timpanogos Cave NM. This is up a beautiful canyon between Lehi and American Fork. We have toured the cave in the past and camped nearby. The creek was running fast and noisy. The cliffs are so steep and rugged.

Timpanogos Canyon
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Silver Creek
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Back to I-15 and the west on UT 83 to Golden Spike NHS. The road borders the Bear Lake NWR (visitor center closed on Sunday) and provided for some great bird viewing along the drive. We picnicked at a trailhead in the park then went to the visitor center. This was the last NPS site in Utah for me to complete the Junior Ranger program. Before leaving home I had downloaded and printed out the booklet. Last night I had spent time completing as much as I could before arriving on site. Once there I was able to finish and receive the badge after taking the pledge. They also gave me a booklet for another national program, Historic Program Junior Ranger Activity Book, for ages 7 and up. I'll be working on that over the summer.

Golden Spike NHS
Visitor Center display
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Meeting of the trains
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At this point we had to re-route our trip from the original plan so we could be in Central California after Memorial Day to help out our son and his family. We had planned to go north into Idaho, then tour all over Montana before heading west. Luckily we had nothing to prevent us from changing our plans. So today we headed towards Jackson, WY. From there we would work our way west across Idaho and then south to California.

This allowed us to follow a new route, one we had never driven and it turned out to be spectacular. We went north into Idaho in I-15, then east on US 30 through Lava Hot Springs and Soda Springs, then north on ID 34 past Grays Lake NWR, over to US 89. The views were big and hillsides green, with snow-capped mountains all around. The weather was cool with intermittent rain showers, including some hail and sleet, but not for long. The birding around the NWR was a highlight. Seeing a pair of Golden Eagles down on the ground, near the side of the road was special. I highly recommend this road to anyone traveling in the area. We ended up at a small RV park along US 89 so we could plug in and use our electric heater in the evening, and more importantly in the AM, when it was predicted to reach 31 degrees. Beautiful views all around.


Wildlife Sightings

European Starling
Western Meadowlark
House Sparrow
American Kestrel
Great Blue Heron - finally!!
Brewer's Blackbird
Mourning Dove
Canada Goose & goslings
Common Raven
White Pelican
Snowy Egret
Tern
Lark Sparrow
Swainson's Hawk
Black-billed Magpie
American Robin
Mallard
Golden Eagle- pair
American Crow
Sandhill Crane
White-faced Ibis
Killdeer

Monday, May 23, 2016

Start: Etna, WY
Finish: Baker Hole Campground (USFS), West Yellowstone, MT

Woke up to 29 degrees, glad to have the electric heater to run before we got up. Went into Alpine to treat ourselves at Delish Donuts - tasty small donuts and 1/2 off wonderful cinnamon rolls on Monday.

While following US 89 along the Snake River and before reaching Hoback Junction we found these 2 Mountain Goats in the MIDDLE of this very busy highway. We pulled ahead and I took these pictures from a distance. While taking the picture cars, trucks and busses went by, all slowing down, and the goats did not move an inch.

Mountain Goats
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Into Jackson and continuing our quest for the NPS Centennial stamps, found some at locations not previously reported in our National Park Travelers Club database. We traveled through Grand Teton NP, with some snow showers throughout the day.

From there we continued north into Yellowstone NP, several visitor centers had not opened for the season. We stopped at Old Faithful, which was quite busy. Then, Norris Geyser Basin, first time we have been able to get a parking place in several visits. Before stopping in Mammoth we went into Gardiner to get the passport stamp at the Yellowstone Association building. Before leaving we wanted an afternoon treat, not much was open for the season. The Mammoth Hot Springs area was very busy.

The drive from Mammoth to Madison and then out to West Yellowstone was enjoyable for the most part, almost no traffic at 4:30 PM. However we did have 2 'bear jams', both only lasting for a few minutes, not an hour as has been reported during the summer season. The first bear was so far away you would have to have a very powerful scope or lens to see any detail. The second sighting was across the Madison River and was definitely a Grizzly. It ambled over to the river, took a drink and went back into the willows. The road traffic never stopped, just coasted through.

Happily Baker Hole Campground, north of West Yellowstone, was open for the season and had electric sites. The low was predicted to be 31 degrees.

Wildlife Sightings

Mountain Goat
Elk
Coyote
Pronghorn
Bison
Grizzly Bear
Cottontail Rabbit

Osprey
Common Raven
American Crow
American Robin
Tree Swallow
White Pelican
Black-billed Magpie
Mountain Bluebird
Canada Goose & goslings
Mallard
Trumpeter Swan

Tuesday, May 24, 2016

Start: West Yellowstone, MT
Finish: Craters of the Moon NM & NP

It was not as cold as the previous morning, but we still enjoyed the electric heater to take the chill off while we had breakfast, in the van. We stopped at the West Yellowstone Visitor Center for the last passport stamp for the park. Before leaving town we found a few letterboxes. Along US 20 at the ID-MT border my husband planted a letterbox along the CDT - Continental Divide Trail, the hiking trail that reaches from the Mexican border to the Canadian border, over 3,000 miles as it follows the crest of the Continental Divide. A very tough trail to hike!

CDT
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We continued down US 20 to Idaho Falls, stopping in St. Anthony for an unremarkable Mexican lunch. In Idaho Falls we sought out the Whispering Giant sculpture for Idaho. This was one was placed in November 1980, is made of Douglas Fir and stands 27 ft tall.

Idaho's Whispering Giant Sculpture, by Peter Toth,
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Continuing west on US 20 we ended the day at a favorite NPS site, Craters of the Moon National Monument and National Preserve. We found a good campsite and enjoyed our first 'camping' evening after several days of less than great weather. It was hitting 70 degrees again as we set up camp, which we enjoyed, until some dark clouds moved over.

Campsite
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Yellow-bellied Marmots - kept an eye on us
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Dwarf Monkeyflower
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Cinquefoil
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Lava flow
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Wildlife Sightings

Pronghorn
Wyoming Ground Squirrel
Yellow-bellied Marmot
Long-tailed Weasel
Least Chipmunk
Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel

Ruby-crowned Kinglet
Common Raven
American Robin
Violet-green Swallow
Canada Goose
California Gull
Trumpeter Swan
Red-winged Blackbird
White Pelican
Black-billed Magpie
American Crow
Clark's Nutcracker

Wednesday, May 25, 2016

Start: Craters of the Moon NM & NPres
Finish: Smoky Mountain Campground (Castle Rocks SP), Almo, ID

Enjoyed morning in the campground with a Least Chipmunk keeping an eye on us.

Least Chipmunk
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Dwarf Monkeyflowers
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Drove back and forth across Idaho to Minidoka NWR along the Snake River where we saw White Pelicans flying over in formation while we ate our picnic lunch. From there we headed south to City of Rocks National Reserve, near Almo, ID. When we arrived around 2 PM we found out the visitor center was closed for training today. As this was a place my husband needed the passport cancellation for his postal cancellation collection we decided to spend the night. The camping in the preserve is primitive, at best, and the weather was staying wet and cool. Within a mile of the visitor center was a state park campground with electric, water and showers.

We did some exploring of the preserve, which interprets the California Trail NHT, and is popular with rock climbers before relaxing in camp.

Treasure Rock
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California Trail
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We went back into 'town' and had dinner at the Almo Steakhouse before returning to camp just as the evening rain began.

Wildlife Sightings
Least Chipmunk
Yellow-bellied Marmot

Violet-green Swallow
Clark's Nutcracker
Turkey Vulture
American Coot
Yellow-headed Blackbird
Red-winged Blackbird
Common Raven
Northern Harrier
Black-billed Magpie
American Robin
White Pelican
Brewer's Blackbird
House Wren
Western Meadowlark
American Kestrel
Pine Siskin
Chipping Sparrow
Yellow-rumped Warbler

Thursday, May 26, 2016

Start: Almo, ID
Finish: Bully's Creek Reservoir, Vale, OR

There was a light rain shower in the early evening and then no more through the night. Woke up to blue skies and comfortable morning temperature. We went back into Almo, about 2 miles to the Tracy General Store for a tasty breakfast sandwich fixed in their deli. This store is open from 8 AM - 6 PM and serves as a community center. It was built by the Tracy family in 1894 was sold out of the family in 2009. The current owners took over in 2015 and are delightful. Besides gas, groceries, free WiFi, fresh baked goods and deli items, you can also get a shower for $4. City of Rocks NP is very popular with rock climbers and a hot shower is appreciated.

Tracy General Store - Almo, ID
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Today the visitor center was open for the preserve. Once we had our passport stamps we drove through City of Rocks NP on the dirt road which is suitable for all vehicles, unless there has been recent, heavy rains. The uniqueness of this site is hard to capture with a camera. Once on the westside, the road drops down and heads north into Oakley. The spring green was beautiful as we dropped down and followed a stream into town.

City of Rock National Preserve
Visitor Center, Almo, ID
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City of Rocks
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By lunchtime we had arrived in Hagermann, ID and visited the visitor center for both Hagermann Fossil Beds NM and Minidoka NHS. The actual locations for both of these sites are out of town. On previous trips we have visited the fossil beds and the interment cam. There is a display of both the fossils and items related to the internment camp in the visitor center. The ranger on duty did tell us they had found an original barracks and coal-burning stoves used in the internment camp at a local ranch. They have been moved back to the camp and are being restored.

On our westward journey we detoured down to Deer Flats NWR, SW of Boise. They have some great displays and had a spotting scope on an Osprey nest, no activity noted. By 5:30 we had found camping just to the west of Vale, OR at a Bureau of Reclamation Reservoir, Bully Creek Reservoir Campground. For $15 each site had an electric hook-up. At 2,500 ft it was very comfortable and enjoyable to sit out and enjoy bird-watching. The only drawback was the water was not suitable for drinking, tested high in arsenic. For showers, dishwashing it was fine. Luckily we always (try to) keep our 3 gallon water container and 3-2 liter bottles full, plus several drinking containers up front. As I walked around the campground I spotted a family of owls; 2 adults and 2 owlets in the trees at the edge of the reservoir.

Great-horned Owl & owlets
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Killdeer
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Wildlife Sightings
Yellow-bellied Marmot
Black-tailed Prairie Dog
Mule Deer
Belding's Grounding Squirrel

Brewer's Blackbird
Black-billed Magpie
Yellow Warbler
House Finch
Cassin's Finch
Mourning Dove
Lark Sparrow
White Pelican
Red-tailed Hawk
American Robin
Bullock's Oriole
Western Kingbird
Yellow-headed Blackbirs
House Sparrow
Red-winged Blackbird
California Quail
Common Nighthawk
Double-crested Cormorant
Killdeer
Osprey
Great-horned Owl
Western Grebe

Friday, May 27, 2016

Start: Vale, OR
Finish: Collier Memorial SP, Chiloquin, OR

Overall a good night, the wind picked up in the morning. We enjoyed breakfast in camp and a shower before heading west on US 20. We had planned to drop down at Burns and visit Malhuer NWR, yes the one on the news this winter, but all visitor facilities are closed until late summer. We'll come back and visit that plus the Hart Antelope Refuge, both deserve a few days to explore.

This was the Friday of Memorial Day weekend and we had no reservations camping. We were heading towards Lava Beds NM, in N CA. When we got to Burns I called the park site and they expected the campground to fill early. We went south on US 395 and then went cross-country to US 97 based on a Google Maps routing, which worked very well. Along the way we stopped at the Klamath Marsh NWR. This is a high mountain marsh, reminded us of the terrain the previous week in ID at Gray's Lake NWR.

Klamath Marsh NWR
Lava Bomb
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Info Board
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Once on US 97 we stopped at the first campground, Collier Memorial SP and scored the last RV site! A freeze warning was predicted so we wanted the electric hook-up. It was mid-afternoon and we were a short distance from Crater Lake NP, so we drove up to the visitor center and got the passport stamp. The snow was still covering the road shoulders and none of the campgrounds were open.

Crater Lake NP
Visitor Center
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Annie's Falls
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Annie's Canyon
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Once back at camp I explored along Spring Creek and the Williamson River, which flowed right behind our campsite. While walking along I watched a small bird harassing a large white bird, a Great Egret, which perched on top of a pine tree.

Great Egret perched
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Wildlife Sightings

Belding's Ground Squirrel
Pronghorn

Great Blue Heron
Bullock's Oriole
Yellow Warbler
Western Grebe
California Gull
Killdeer
House Sparrow
American Robin
Mourning Dove
Barn Swallow
California Quail
Common Raven
Canada Goose
Red-winged Blackbird
Brewer's Blackbird
Snowy Egret
Turkey Vulture
Northern Harrier
Dark-eyed Junco
Great Egret
Steller's Jay
American Bald Eagle

Saturday, May 28, 2016

Start: Chiloquin, OR
Finish: Indian Well Campground (NPS), Lava Beds NM, Tule Lake, CA

The low was 31degrees, but by the time we got up and moving it was 39 degrees. Not far from the campground was Melita's Cafe which was great for breakfast, and very busy. North of Klamath Falls we took the US 97 bypass and the cut over to the back road into Tule Lake NWR and Lava Beds NM. Along the way we stopped at the Tule Lake Interment camp which was used for American-Japanese and Italian and German POWs during WWII, it is part of the WWII Valor in the Pacific NM. It also has sites in Hawaii.

Tule Lake Camp
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We arrived at Lava Beds NM by 11 AM and went right to the campground and got a great site. Back at the visitor center I picked up the Junior Ranger booklet and for the passport stamps.

Western Fence Lizard in campsite
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After having lunch in the campground we drove out to Petroglyph Point. The petroglyphs here are unusual - truly pecked into the soft rock cliff.

Petroglyph Point
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On our way back we spent quite a bit of time birding in Tule Lake NWR which shares borders with the NPS land.

Western Grebe
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Yellow-headed Blackbird
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White Pelican
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We stopped at a couple of pullouts and did some short hikes. The weather was perfect today - mid 70s, clear, dry and no wind! The campground was full by late afternoon.

Wildlife Sightings
Squirrel
Western Fence Lizard
Yellow-bellied Marmot
Belding's Ground Squirrel
Black-tailed Jackrabbit

Red-tailed Hawk
Black-billed Magpie
Brewer's Blackbird
California Gull
Foster's Tern
Snowy Egret
Canada Goose
Double-crested Cormorant
White Pelican
Western Meadowlark
Cliff Swallow
Ruddy Duck
Cinnamon Teal
American Coot
Great Egret
Mallard
Yellow-headed Blackbird
Tri-colored Blackbird
Western Kingbird
Turkey Vulture
Scrub Jay
Common Raven

Sunday, May 29, 2016

Start: Lava Beds NM, CA
Finish: Battle Creek campground (USFS), Mineral, CA

Very comfortable morning in camp, so nice to have good camping weather and a couple of Black-tailed Jackrabbits exploring near the campsite. Before leaving Lava Beds NM I completed the Junior Ranger program and received the badge. This park site features rugged lava beds and numerous caves to explore. At the visitor center you must check in before entering the caves; first to be screened for WNS - White Nose Syndrome which is harmful to the bats in the caves and to learn which of the numerous caves are suitable for your exploration level. The best part of going in the caves, especially when it gets hot, is the coolness, as many have year-round permanent ice down in the caves.

Lava Beds NM
Devil's Homestead Flow
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Butterfly on Buckwheat
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Collapsed Cave
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This was a crazy day on the road - on the hunt for NPS Centennial stamps. We left Lava Beds NM, taking the road south out of the monument. Their brochure warns that this road may be unsuitable, especially for RVs, we found it to be paved, the surface a bit rough, but drivable and saved time and miles.
At CA 299 we headed west through Redding to Whiskeytown NRA, a large reservoir with some historical areas nearby. This is the first place we found Memorial Day crowds, all at the visitor center to buy their entrance pass. Along the way we stopped in Fall River Mills at the Fort Crook Museum. They had some good outdoor displays of large agricultural equipment and a round barn.

Fort Crook Museum
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Fall River Falls
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After getting our stamps at Whiskeytown we back-tracked to Redding and then crossed I-5 again to head towards the south entrance for Lassen Volcanic NP. The road through the park was still not open, due to the Winter's snowfall. We followed a convoluted back roads route to get there - CA 44 then a series of backroads to angle down to CA 36 to Mineral. Before heading into Lassen we stopped at a campground nearby and easily got a campsite. Over the years I have learned that getting a campsite on the 2nd night of a 3-day weekend is doable.
Yes, there was snow at the main visitor center at the south end of the park. By mid-June the road had been plowed and opened. Inside the visitor center was a very cool interactive sand-based table for kids (and adults) to experience water flow. There was a projector mounted above which colored the sand based on it being moved to create a water flow. Difficult to explain, better to see and experience.

Lassen Volcanic NP
Parking Lot
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Interactive Water Flow table
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Through the VC window
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Wildlife Sightings
Black-tailed Jackrabbit
Western Fence Lizard
Rock Squirrel
Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel

Scrub Jay
Common Raven
Double-crested Cormorant
Snowy Egret
Sandhill Crane
Turkey Vulture
Brewer's Blackbird
Mourning Dove
Western Bluebird
European Starling
Steller's Jay
Red-tailed Hawk
Mallard
American Robin