Central & Eastern Arkansas
Friday, September 26
Start & Finish: Tyler Bend Campground, Buffalo National River (NPS)
Woke to an overcast sky, but a clear forecast. By the end of the day it was reaching 90 degrees. After a yummy breakfast at Ferguson's (and smashed pennies) just a couple of miles from the campground on US 65 in Saint Joe we drove into the quaint town of Gilbert. The Penny Collector app showed there were 3 places there. The first stop was at the Gilbert RV campground. My husband was inside a looong time - the man there owned the machines in the area and had his own machine. Besides the set he bought from the machine the man gave him several more from his private collection. Next stop was the General Store. Today the rent canoes for the River and cabins. In 1903 they were the Post a Office as well as the local store.
Gilbert General Store
Back into the park to pick up the Junior Ranger booklet, another program with no age range given. It appears more and more parks are encouraging the over 12 crowd to participate. As I have said before I have always learned something new when completing a program. Don't be afraid to ask- go for it!
We drove south into Marshall and spent a couple of hours doing laundry and grocery shopping. This put us in place to drive over to another part of the park, Buffalo Point. Pretty drive on curvy back roads. At Buffalo Point there are a number of River views, high from a bluff and down along the river. For campers - this NPS campground had electric and water hookup sites and it takes reservations. There are also showers for all campers. While there I finished my Junior Ranger activities and received my badge.
We continued a loop back to camp by continuing north on AR 14 to Yellville. Then cut back to US 65 north of the campground on AR 235, another good road will plenty of views and curves. We are a couple of weeks ahead of the Fall colors, a few spots starting to show, I can only imagine how spectacular this area will be then.
Passed the Big Spring Restaurant in Saint Joe where we got smoked pork loin last night for dinner, and beef brisket for tonight's dinner - excellent. They also have sit down service, but so nice to enjoy the meal at camp with a beer of our choice! Once in the shade the temperature was comfortable.
Saturday, September 27
Start: Tyler Bend campground, Buffalo National River
Finish: Pendleton Bend campground (AC), N of Dumas, AR
Woke up to fog, but by the time we finished breakfast in camp the sky had cleared. Heading south on US 65 towards Conway & Little Rock. Nice highway, looks like a major thoroughfare through the Ozarks. Cell service has been excellent throughout Arkansas, even on the back roads.
We spent a couple of hours in downtown Little Rock which had lots to see and do. We wanted to see Peter Toth's Whispering Giant for Arkansas. It is part of their Riverfront Park. While meandering around we found several places with smashed penny machines. The Old State House Museum is free and had exhibits related to bicycles and landscaping. The MacArthur Military Museum is about a mile from downtown, next to the Arkansas Arts Center, which is also free.
Little Rock - Old State House
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Fountain at Old State House
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Southern Welcome
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Whispering Giant #13 - Little Rock
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Our last stop in town was a visit to Little Rock Central High School National Historic Site. Their exhibit area is small, but tells a powerful story. It reminded me of several facts; it was 3 years after the Supreme Court had ordered schools to be integrated before the nine African-American students entered Central High. And what I had forgotten was that the state of Arkansas passed a state law allowing a governor to close a school, which the governor did after that first year of integration. It took 2 more years before the schools were reopened as integrated. To me it is amazing that so much negative energy and action was expended for something that I believe should never have occurred. The exhibits also tell the story of individuals from other minority groups that worked to correct injustices in our country. This site is well worth a visit.
Back on the road, heading SE on US 65 through Pine Bluff to Dumas, AR. Here we headed north on US 165 to the Arkansas River to camp at an Army Corp of Engineers campground, Pendleton Bend. Warm and muggy! Hard to identify many birds, they fly into the trees never to be seen again.
Passport Stamps
Buffalo National River - First National River
Little Rock Central High School NHS - Little Rock, AR
Bonus
Buffalo National River (pictorial)
Central High School NHS - Little Rock, AR (pictorial)
Smashed Pennies
Ferguson's Country Store & Restaurant, St. Joe -4
Gilbert RV Campground, Gilbert - 8
Buffalo Camping & Canoeing, Gilbert - 4
Pickle Gap Village, Pickle Gap - 1
Old State House Museum, Little Rock - 3
MacArthur Military Museum, Little Rock - 4
Clinton Museum Store, Little Rock -3
Wildlife Sightings
White-tailed Deer
Turkey Vulture
American Crow
Common Raven
Pileated Woodpecker
Barred Owl (heard)
Northern Cardinal
Mourning a Dove
Northern Mockingbird
Blackbird
Great Egret
Canada Goose
Pileated Woodpecker
Downy Woodpecker
Leaving AR, across MS & into Alabama
Sunday, September 28
Start: N of Dumas, AR
Finish: Tishomingo State Park, Tishomingo, MS
Cooled off nicely for sleeping, lower 60s. Pleasant morning in camp and at Arkansas Post National Memorial. This is another new NPS site for me. A lot of history happened here, but no structures remain, hence a Memorial and not a Site. Many flags have flown in this area; French (2), Spanish, Confederate and American, as well as the original settlers, the Quapaw Indians in the 1400s. Today it is mainly a natural area, a beautiful place to walk around. Alligators are found here, but one today.
Back to US165 N, then AR 1, both part of the Great American River Road that follows the Mississippi River. At US 49 we turned east to Helena, AR. We were looking for a Southern Buffet for our Sunday lunch, but most restaurants were closed on Sunday. The only place that was open turned out to be a Mexican place down along the levee and a section of town celebrating the Delta Blues. Rio Linda was busy and the food was excellent, as authentic as anything in Tucson.
Helena, AR
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Crossing the Mississippi at US 49
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After several enjoyable days in Arkansas we entered Mississippi. We picked up US 278 and headed east. This is a 4-lane divided highway with on-off ramps. We stopped in Oxford and toured the Town Square and the author, James Faulkner's home, Rowan Oak. I had spent a bit of time here in the 90s as part of a USDA grant and enjoyed Oxford. On the way into town you pass John Grisham's house, or it was when I was there in the 90s.
Fauklner's Home -Rowan Oak
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Further east on US 298 we picked up the Natchez Trace, just west of Tupelo. I can't say enough about what delightful 'roadie' experience this is. Not as scenic as the Blue Ridge Parkway or Skyline Drive, both further east, but an enjoyable drive. After stopping at the Parkway Visitor Center, near Tupelo, we continued north on the parkway to Tishomingo State Park for the night. The past couple of nights we have started seeing fireflies at night, a childhood memory growing up in the upper MidWest.
Monday, September 29
Start: Tishomingo, MS
Finish: Florence, AL
The morning was spent revisiting some NPS sites we had spent time at the Summer of 2013 when the National Park Travelers Club had their annual convention in Corinth, MS at Shiloh National Military Park. The main battlefield of Shiloh is just across the Tennessee border and has a great auto tour that takes you past numerous memorials ( not as many as Gettysburg) with a detailed explanation of the battle. Back in Mississippi in the town of Corinth there is a very nice interpretive center that has excellent displays. I spent a lot of time there last summer completing their Junior Ranger program. As you walk up to the center, imbedded in the walkway are bronzed artifacts from the battlefield. Of all the Civil War sites I have visited I think this does the best of telling the whole story.
Corinth Civil War Interpretive Center
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Explanation of imbedded items
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As we were on our was to Florence, AL on US 72 we took a detour south to the Coon Dog Cemetery. We had clues for a letterbox and the title was too intriguing to pass up. It turned out to be a bit longer drive than we had intended, but we persevered and were rewarded with a unique experience. It turned out it is a well-known site in these parts.
Coon Dog Cemetery
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Our final stop of the day was at the University of North Alabama at the Muscle Shoals National Heritage Area. This is an area in the NW corner of Alabama that celebrates their unique culture. We'll be visiting numerous sites over the next several days. The director walked us over to their new office and spent considerable time with us. We finished the day along the Tennessee River at McFarland Park, a public RV park near downtown Florence. Another warm day, mid-80s, hoping for a cool evening.
Passport Stamps
Trail of Tears National Historic Trail - Arkansas Post
Arkansas Post National Memorial - Gillette, AR
Trail of Tears NHT - Natchez Trace Parkway
Natchez Trace Patkway - Tupelo, MS
Natchez Trace Nat'l Scenic Trail - AL, MS, TN
Shiloh NMP - 150th Anniversary of the Civil War
Shiloh National Cemetery - Pittsburgh Landing, TN
Trail of Tears National Historic Trails - Pittsburgh Landing, TN
Shiloh National Military Park - Shiloh Battlefield, TN
Shiloh National Military Park - Corinth Contraband Camp
Siege & Battle of Corinth NHL - Corinth, MS
Corinth Civil War Interpretive Center - Corinth, MS 38834
Corinth - 150th Anniversary of the Civil War
Muscle Shoals National Heritage Area - Florence, AL
Bonus
Arkansas Post National Memorial (pictorial)
Shiloh National Military Park (iconic, presented by NPTC July 2013)
Letterboxes
Monday - 2
Wildlife Sightings
Turtle
Eastern Gray Squirrel
Red Squirrel
Spiders - too many to count or identify
Fireflies!
Great Blue Heron
Great Egret
Cattle Egret
Red-tailed hawk
Red-headed Woodpecker
Downy Woodpecker
Prothonotary Warbler
Wild Turkey
Mourning Dove
Fish Crow
Cedar waxwing
Northern Mockingbird
Eastern Bluebird
Hummingbird
Northern Cardinal
Muscle Shoals NHA, Alabama - Day 1
Tuesday, September 30
Start & Finish: Florence, AL
Muscle Shoals National Heritage Area - our plan today was to visit as many of the sites we could today. It was a navigator's nightmare, I ended up re-routing us a couple of times. We definitely saw lots of back roads and new sites. At each site the staff were delightful, thrilled we had stopped by and helpful when needed. I think today was as much about the people of NE Alabama, as their rich heritage.
Stop #1 - Old State Bank, Decatur, AL
The town Decatur was a significant site during the Civil War, held by Union forces throughout the war. It is on the banks of the Tennessee River and two major railroad lines. The gentleman who greeted us had a wealth of information about the area and the building. The fireplace mantle pictured below is called a War and Peace mantle - look closely and you will see the uprights are cannons held up on each end by bibles. Also the upstairs was the home of the banker. It is beautifully furnished with period pieces.
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Stop #2 - Wheeler National Wildlife Refuge, Decatur, AL
Nice stop with lots of natural scenery. The big season of migrating cranes, geese and ducks are a month or so off. Inside the visitor center there were good displays of the birds that use the refuge. As we keep trying to get better at identifying birds these displays are helpful.
Stop #3 - Mooresville, AL at JaVa Coffee
A beautiful, small intact town settled in 1818, a small Williamsburg without any commercialization. The passport stamp for the heritage area is at a coffee place in the village. What a surprise, Jack the owner was raised in Tucson. We enjoyed a hot beverage, slice of Apple pie and sharing stories. Along with selling drinks he has an eclectic selection of art and collectibles, including beautiful photos of western landscape. What a pleasant surprise!
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Stop #4 - Belle Chèvre Artisan Cheese, Elkmont, AL
Fun stop at the factory and store. A tour was being conducted when we stopped. We were able to get the stamp and look around on our own. The building had been a cotton warehouse, we found the front of the building very interesting, lots of architectural history.
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Stop #5 Red Bay Museum, Red Bay, AL
This was a very well done small town museum. A number of years ago the town asked someone to write their history, in the process they realized they had a lot of the artifacts that told their story. They were collected and became this museum. They did a great job of creating displays with a common theme. Upstairs they have an extensive collection relating to Tammy Wynette, a country singer, she was born nearby. Her glittery gowns, with the lighting and my camera did not do justice to the 'flash' of her dresses.
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Tammy Wynette's gowns
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Stop #6 Rock Bridge Canyon, Hodges, AL
Not much to do here, but would love to come back and camp and hike. The mid 80s with humidity higher than we like kept us in the front office. From the pictures this natural areas looks spectacular. It is marketed as an Equestrian Park, but trails also open to hikers.
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Stop #7 Alabama Music Hall of Fame, Tuscumbia, AL
This was an end of day, quick stop. The stars embedded in the front hall included many greats; EmmyLou Harris, Percy Sledge, The Temptations, Alabama (of course) and Nat King Cole, to name a few.
Stop # 8 Alabama Chanin, Florence, AL
Another end of the day stop, which was probably a good thing. They make beautiful hand-sewn women's clothing. Lots to admire, but not in my budget. The display area was beautifully arranged. Sorry I didn't get pictures. They serve lunch from 11-3.
Back into town for fresh, local beer while enjoying a tasty Calzone at The Pie Factory in downtown Florence. After eating we walked the several blocks of the thriving downtown, always nice to see.
A few more Muscle Shoal NHA sites tomorrow and then continuing east to new NPS sites for me.
Passport Stamps
Muscle Shoals NHA
Old State Bank
Wheeler Wildlife Refuge
Belle Chèvre
Red Bay Museum
Rock Bridge Canyon
Alabama Music Hall of Fame
Alabama Chanin
Wildlife Sightings
Great Egret
Great Blue Heron
Northern Cardinal
Northern Mockingbird
Feral Dove
American Robin
American Crow
Swallow
Eastern Bluebird
Great Smoky Mountain National Park
Friday - Saturday, October 3-4
Start & Finish: Kingston, TN
On Saturday we drove to Fall Creek Falls State Park, near Pikeville, Tn. This another beautiful state park with well-developed facilities. The park is large and spread out. We did a hike from the Nature Center which required crossing a suspension bridge. A sign gave notice that only 6 people were to be on the bridge at a time. As this was the first cool day of Fall we had to wait a bit before we were able to cross, once on the bridge the swinging motion was substantial.
Suspension bridge crossing
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Further in the park there was an overlook to the tallest of the falls, Fall Creek. Lighting wasn't the best for a great picture. Before leaving the park we enjoyed a Southern-style buffet at their restaurant overlooking the lake.
Fall Creek Falls
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Sunday, October 5
Start: Kingston, TN
Finish: Elkmont campground, Great Smoky Mountains NP, near Townsend, TN
After stopping in. Maryville, TN for groceries we stopped in Townsend, TN at the visitor center for passport stamps, tokens and park information, and a couple of letterboxes before entering Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Even though the leaves have not turned colors and it was mid-Sunday afternoon the park was very busy. The out-of-state license plates were abundant. We set up camp at Elkmont, a first time camping here. The campground is very well organized, even providing large areas that are generator-free, a treat for us.
We drove to the Sugarlands Visitor Center, near Gatlinburg. After getting several passport stamps and spending time in their museum we drove into. Gatlinburg to another visitor center on the western edge of town. What a throng of people along the streets of Gatlinburg, glad we weren't looking for a parking spot. It looks like Fall Break for schools must be starting as we are seeing more families than we have on our trip. Back at camp we enjoyed dinner and a campfire.
Monday, October 6
Start & Finish: Elkmont Campground
I have decided a quiet morning in camp means waking up at 8:30, which we did this morning. We eventually made our way out of camp and drove south to Tremont and then to Cade's Cove. Traffic was less than on Sunday, but still busy. Once on the eleven mile scenic loop around historic Cade's Cove it was very slow going, maybe 10 mph. Clouds were moving in, as predicted, and soon opened up with rain, lightning and thunder. We made our way back to camp to enjoy a quiet afternoon of reading and napping. The rain had let up, but more was predicted.
Flowers along the trail
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We drove into Gatlinburg for dinner at Great Smoky Brewhouse, excellent beer and a tasty dinner. Town was busy, but not as crowded as it was on Sunday afternoon.
Passport Stamps
Great Smoky Mountains NP
-Townsend, TN
-Sugarlands
-Tremont, TN
Cade's Cove, TN
Elkmont, TN
Clingmans Dome
Oconaluftee, NC
Appalachian National Scenic Trail - Maine to Georgia
Trail of Tears National Historic Trail
Tennessee
North Carolina
Blue Ridge Parkway - NC-VA
Tokens
Great Smoky Mountains NP - 6
Letterboxes
Saturday - 3
Sunday - 8
Monday - 2
Wildlife sightings
Eastern gray squirrel
Eastern Chipmunk
Wild Turkey
American Crow
Turkey Vulture
Mourning Dove
Black-capped Chickadee
Northern Mockingbird
Blue Ridge Parkway - Part 2
Thursday, October 9
Start: Carolina Hemlock campground (USFS), near Micaville, NC
Finish: Rocky Knob campground (NPS), mp 170 in VA on Blue Ridge Parkway
Great morning in camp, including a very nice non- fee shower! Back up to the BRP, continuing south. Today would be a full day on the parkway. We stopped at the Museum of North Carolina Minerals which has excellent displays. As we got closer to Linville Falls the Fall colors were in full color and the crowds were out and about. Along the way I picked up the Junior Ranger booklet for the Blue Ridge Parkway (BRP). I like the way they have it organized, it is actually a pocket folder with activities to complete. Ten of the visitor centers along the parkway have separate activity sheets. By completing the folder and one sheet you get the standard badge. If you complete four sheets you get a patch, and all ten will earn you an attractive metal badge.
Just past the Moses H. Cone home, Flat Top Manor, we drove off the parkway into Blowing Rock, NC for gas and lunch. This is a very upscale and crowded town. One restaurant even had parking spaces with a white board at each space which had names and reserved times for that day. We enjoyed a very tasty lunch at Blowing Rock Ale House and Brewery.
Back on the parkway we stopped for a nice hike to some cascades. It was a signed Nature Trail which helped us to identify some of the trees we've been seeing out East. The weather today was 'Fall Perfect'.
E.B. Jeffries Cascade Trail Sign
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A favorite stop along the parkway is the Blue Ridge Music Center at mp 213. As we walked up two gentlemen were playing bluegrass on the porch. The exhibits in this center interpret the roots of American music. While there I had completed enough of the Junior Ranger program to earn the standard badge. The ranger was very excited to have an adult participating.
Blue Ridge Music Center
Music on the porch
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Which music delivery system did you first use?
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Junior (Senior) Ranger pledge
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We ended the day at Rocky Knob campground. A bare-bones NPS campground along the parkway. On a previous trip this is where we first heard the Barred Owl. To be honest it scared us out of a deep sleep. Hopefully we will hear again tonight, we are better prepared, knowing what it is.
Friday, October 10
Start: Rocky Knob campground, VA
Finish: Bluestone State Park, near Hinton, WV
No Barred Owls heard. It only rained when we arrived and cleared up during the night, even saw the full moon. We drove back south on the parkway to a very favorite place, Mabry Mill. Besides having a nicely restored and working pioneer village there is also an excellent restaurant. Their cornmeal pancakes are the best. Everything is good there, and so on the weekends be prepared for a wait. Once done eating we walked out through the village, the fall colors only added to the beauty.
Mabry Mill
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No rain, however, for a lot of the drive to the end of the parkway we were looking down on the clouds in the valleys below. And we were driving through the clouds from time to time. At times it was erie, but pretty as well. Along the way we stopped at the various visitor centers to see the exhibits and get the passport stamps. We finished the parkway at its northern terminus, just where Skyline Drive begins through Shenandoah National Park. We have done that drive as well, but not this time. We picked up I-64 west towards West Virginia. It is always a shock to leave the Blue Ridge Parkway and get back on highways.
After crossing the state line we stopped in Sulphur White Springs for a tasty dinner at the Mason Jar restaurant. We continued towards Beckley, but turned off before getting there to reach Bluestone State Park. By this time is was getting dark and the road to and into the state park was narrow and poorly marked in places, plus the rain was starting to get serious. Luckily we got a camping spot without trees over us!
Finances: at the end of 4 weeks of travel our weekly cost has averaged to be $527.
Passport Stamps
Blue Ridge Parkway
Museum of NN Minerals
Overmountain Victory Trail
Linville Falls
Linn Cove Viaduct
Cone Memorial Park
Blue Ridge Music Center
- Mabry Mill
Peaks of Otter
James River
Humpback Rocks
Virginia's Explore Park - Blue Ridge Parkway
Appalachian National Scenic Trail - Maine to Georgia
Smashed Pennies
Mabry Mill
Wildlife Sightings
Chipmunk
Tree Frog (heard)
Cottontail Rabbit
Glow worm
White-tailed Deer
Turkey Vulture
American Crow
American Robin
House Sparrow
Northern Mockingbird
Mourning Dove
