Roadtrip #8 - The Upper Midwest

Back in the saddle we go.

The gears are in motion for the next edition of our road trip series. This year we decided to take a more rustic/historical journey, re-tracing some footsteps of Lewis & Clark as well as the people of Sioux Nation. On Monday, September 15th, our flight departs for Denver, CO where we pick up our minivan rental and begin 14 days of trekking around 7 Upper Midwestern states, revisiting a few places from past road trips, but also experiencing new ones, mostly in areas that may not fall at the top of the average traveller’s destination list.

Contrary to past excursions, we’ll be going in a clockwise direction. Our primary destination will be the Black Hills of South Dakota, spending several nights in that area, but also exploring plenty of fresh territory in the other states. You can see our entire loop by checking out the Google Maps route I created.

Thanks to advice from the dedicated RTA mentors in this roadtrip’s planning thread, our route is locked in as follows:

Day 0 (Sep 15) - Travel Day, fly to Denver, CO - stay in Estes Park, CO
Day 1 (Sep 16) - Rocky Mountain National Park (WY) - Cheyenne, WY - Fort Laramie SHP (WY) - stay in Lusk, WY
Day 2 (Sep 17) - Devils Tower National Monument (WY) - stay in Sheridan, WY
Day 3 (Sep 18) - Little Big Horn/Pompey’s Pillar National Monuments (MT) - stay in Glendive, MT
Day 4 (Sep 19) - Theodore Roosevelt National Park (ND) - stay in Bismarck, ND
Day 5 (Sep 20) - Standing Rock Scenic Byway (Sioux Nation) from Bismarck to stay in Pierre, SD
Day 6 (Sep 21) - Badlands National Park (SD) - Wall, SD - stay in Hill City, SD for 3 nights
Day 7 (Sep 22) - Wind Cave National Park (SD) - Custer State Park (SD) - Mt. Rushmore (Evening lights ceremony)
Day 8 (Sep 23) - Crazy Horse (SD) - Hot Springs, SD (Mammoth Site) - Belle Fourche, SD (Center of 50 states)
Day 9 (Sep 24) - Wounded Knee, SD - Scotts Bluff Nat'l Monument (NE) - stay in Ogallala, NE
Day 10 (Sep 25) - Buffalo Bill Ranch SHP (NE) - Golden Spike Tower (NE) - Pony Express Station (NE) - Center of Conterminous US (KS) - Cawker City, KS (largest ball of twine) - stay in Hays, KS
Day 11 (Sep 26) - Fort Hays SHP (KS) - stay in Colorado Springs, CO for 3 nights
Day 12 (Sep 27) - Garden of the Gods (CO) - Air Force Academy (CO)
Day 13 (Sep 28) - Pikes Peak (CO) - Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument (CO)
Day 14 (Sep 29) - Travel Day, drive to Denver, CO; fly home

The last few days around Colorado Springs may be more loose, as we’re staying with friends and may or may not do what’s on the itinerary. Depends on what traveling stamina any of us will have left. We may just sit on the porch, relax and watch the world go by. :)

And it wouldn’t be a kick-off post without listing all my previous adventures. Have a look-see:

RT01 - Summer 2005 - 48 States in 30 Days [Website] [Pics]
RT02 - Fall 2006 - The Great West [Thread] [Pics]
RT02a - Spring 2007 - Las Vegas, NV and back [Pics]
RT03 - Spring 2007 - The National Parks of Utah [Thread] [Pics]
RT03a - Fall 2007 - San Francisco, CA and back [Thread] [Pics]
RT03b - Spring 2008 - Cambria, CA and back [Pics]
RT04 - Fall 2008 - New Mexico and the Albuquerque Balloon Festival [Thread] [Pics]
RT04a - Spring 2009 - Sedona, AZ and back [Thread] [Pics]
RT05 - Fall 2009 - Washington, D.C. and the New England states [Thread] [Pics]
RT06 - Fall 2011 - Victoria, BC and the Pacific Coast [Thread] [Pics]
RT06a - Spring 2012 - The CA Mojave Desert and back [Thread] [Pics]
RT07 - Spring 2013 - Alaska and the Arctic Frontier [Thread] [Pics]

Any last-minute advice is always welcome, although I’m really trying to keep it lighter per day compared to past trips so we may not have time for any more. In fact we may drop a few destinations if it becomes necessary. Reporting begins in a few days. Keep it tuned here.

Sounds like a lot of sightseeing packed in a few days!

If I may recommend a few places that you're going through anyway:

Bismarck ND: we stayed in the Days Inn there and were very happy with the service. They also throw in a free HOT breakfast unless you're in a hurry to leave the next day. I'm talking pancakes, eggs cooked to order, bacon, sausage -- not just the typical hotel continental breakfast. The price was right for us, too.

In Pierre, if you're there in time for lunch, Big Tom's Diner puts on a fabulous pulled pork sandwich and they make their own potato salad which we considered delicious.

Where is Lone Hill, SD???

We've stayed in Hays KS on at least one occasion, usually on the way back to CA from central MO. Every time we've stayed there, it has rained.



Donna

Just in case you are not aware, the actual centre of the nation is not in Belle Fourche. It is actually 20 miles north of there. Head up on US-85 and take old US85 where it turns off to the west of US-85. It is then some seven miles to the acrtual centre. The flag and survey marker are on private property, but there is no restriction on entering. In fact, there are little hooks on the fence, so you can hook up the wires for easier access. I'm sure your parents will appreciate that. It is then a short walk to the flag... try not to step in the cow pads. lol

Be aware that this involves some six and a half to 7 nikles of (good) gravel road.

Since you show an interest in seeking out these geographiocal markers... have you thought to include the geographic centre of the North American continent? It is in Rugby ND. You won't be far from it whenb you go to Teddy Roosevelt NP.

If I read your map correcrtly, you will be heading north towards the Dickimnson/Williston area. The roads in that area are clogged with tankers. Not very pleasant driving. and lots of traffic lights in the middle of nowhere, where these rural roads intersect. East of Minot it seems to ease off a bit. Would be worth seeing if you can make it up to the Rugby geographical marker as well. Not a huge detour.

Lifey

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DonnaR57

If I may recommend a few places that you're going through anyway:

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Big Tom's Diner sounds like a winner for dinner in Pierre. Otherwise, we've already booked all our hotels in advance (most of them Best Westerns). There's a few I found that serve a hot breakfast, including the suite we're staying at in the Black Hills. Speaking of which...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DonnaR57

Where is Lone Hill, SD???

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You ever have one of those days where your brain just misfires and there's no explanation for what you typed? Yeah, I'm way too young to be doing that. :) Anyway I have edited the original post to say Hill City, SD.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lifemagician

Just in case you are not aware, the actual centre of the nation is not in Belle Fourche. It is actually 20 miles north of there.

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Yep, already got it. :) I had just added Belle Fourche on my list as a point of reference. The Google Maps route should have the exact spot marked, so we'll be heading up that gravel road to the flag. Belle Fourche does have a nice unofficial monument that represents the center so I'd like to get a picture of that too, as well as finding a place around there for lunch.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lifemagician

Since you show an interest in seeking out these geographical markers... have you thought to include the geographic centre of the North American continent? It is in Rugby ND.

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I had researched it. Funny enough, I'm not as interested in that one as I am the US-related markers. But if for some reason we decide to skip the North Unit of Teddy Roosevelt NP, then I may throw it in as a contingency if we're feeling up to it. Seems kind of far off our original path though.

Our travel day begins at 3:45am PDT. After a restless night’s sleep, we quickly gathered our belongings and awaited the shuttle to John Wayne Airport at 5:00am. Two hours later, we are boarding for the 7:30am flight to Denver, CO. I’ve never flown Southwest before, and unfortunately I knew nothing of how their check-in policy worked, hence we were the very last ones on the plane (despite buying the tickets 6 months in advance) and all of us were stuck with center seats. Luckily the flight was less than 2 hours, wheels down about 10:15am MDT. I know now to call ahead 24 hours before the flight home so we don’t have to go through that debacle again.

Oh, and Denver International Airport is HUGE. We had to take the train to get to baggage claim. Since we’re thrifty travelers, another shuttle took us away from the airport to an Avis car rental in Aurora, CO. (Yeah, it’s a tad less convenient, but we saved $300-400 this way, and they’re letting us drop the car off at the airport upon our return.)

After picking up some necessities at the nearest Wal-mart, we started on a northwest route headed toward Estes Park, CO. Of course, no sooner we merge onto I-225, construction immediately brings traffic to a grinding halt. *sigh* The construction gods just couldn’t wait to start irritating me. The middle of the day! Why can’t they tear up the road at night? After that we transitioned to I-70 West to I-270 West to Hwy 36, and went through Boulder, CO before starting our ascent into the mountains. Oh, but we need more construction and one-lane highways with the stop signs. We can’t have a road trip without that now, can we?

Despite the delays, we reached Estes Park around 3:30pm and checked into our hotel. With plenty of time to spare, I thought we could knock out a few things and save some time for the next morning. Unfortunately my lack of direction and bad cellphone/GPS signals caused me to make a few wrong turns and miss the last showing of the Rocky Mountain National Park video presentation at Beaver’s Meadow Visitor Center. We picked up our usual souvenirs and headed back. Peppers Mexican Grill was our choice of dinner (having not eaten all day, good food!). We then walked the shops of downtown Estes Park and found a few more knick knacks to buy. I better ration the room I have to bring things home!

Tomorrow is one of our busier days, so time to catch Z’s and get an early start.

Love the way you write -- I can feel that aggravation about the construction!!!! Wish I'd known you were flying Southwest, I would have warned you about that check-in procedure! Yes, for your return flight, be ready to check in at EXACTLY 24 hours before the flight -- at 8am for an 8am flight the next day. Even five minutes later you'd get B boarding, or worse. Sometimes it's better to pay the extra $12.50 per ticket per trip to get the A boarding. (We fly SAN to STL on SW every time we have to fly -- never take anything else.)

Consider putting together a package and mailing it home to yourself??? We've done that, too, when we've been forced to fly. Be thankful that SW allows you 2 pieces of checked baggage with no extra charge.


Donna

===== Part 1 =====

Another early morning to start, we ate our complementary breakfast at 6:30am MDT and had our stuff packed and out the door shortly thereafter. I figured we’d be smart and catch the 23-minute presentation video we missed the day before, but the first showing was at 8:30am, a little later than I thought, however still worth the wait. Afterwards we huddled up in the minivan and began our ascent into Rocky Mountain National Park shortly after 9:00am.

As expected, the park did not disappoint. Almost immediately upon starting the primary Trail Ridge Road (Hwy 34), many magnificent viewpoints and lookouts grabbed our attention, especially the 14,000-foot Longs Peak. It was also a nice highlight that some of the aspen tree leaves were already changing at specific altitudes, to give it that extra “color” in our photos (ha). Oh, but let’s keep the record going… workers were paving the roads with fresh oil and of course more construction delays with 1-lane roads, flagmen and the like. So lovely!

The real fun began when we reached the tree line at 11,400 feet above sea level. The stunted trees gave way to the expansions of the alpine tundra. It looked like another planet! But even in this extreme altitude, more construction woes were backing up lines of cars, exposing the sheer number of visitors still coming up here this time of year. Eventually we hit the high pass of 12,183 feet, the highest in elevation any of us has ever been.

We were going to try and drive the entire road to the west side of the park, but I could already see that wasn’t going to fly. By the time we reached the Alpine Visitor Center it was past 11:00am and there was plenty more to do. Besides which, we could already feel the effects of the high altitude, so we expedited our time at the top and began descending the same way we came up, stopping along a few missed points from the ascent.

On the way out we stayed on Hwy 34 and passed by the Elk Viewing meadows, but being the middle of the day, we didn’t see any animals throughout our entire visit. We exited the park boundaries, stopped in at the Fall River Visitor Center, and probably took a little longer than planned gawking at the 2-story gift shop next door. Not only that, but 20 minutes after leaving there, I realized I may have dropped my cell phone in the parking lot and in a panic turned back to the Visitor Center, costing us another 40 minutes of travel time. (Dad eventually found the phone fallen into a crevice between the seats, so although a lucky break, the turn-around was for nought. I should learn to not have the phone on silent during the day.) The drive descending from the Rocky Mountains on Hwy 34 was an eye-catcher, as we followed one of the rivers and the towering walls of rock down to the adjacent valley. That was a nice little finale, and the last of our mountain adventures for a while.

===== Part 2 =====

We followed Hwy 34 all the way to I-25 North, and made a bee-line for the next state on our list. We crossed into Wyoming around 3:30pm, and a few minutes later pulled in front of the capitol building in Cheyenne, WY. Just another state capitol to mark off my list… but wait! This particular one turned out to be special, and the most memorable capitol visit experienced to this day.

Mom and I of course took pics of the front with the gold dome as always (Dad was wiped out from the day and opted to stay in the van). I decided to go in (dragging Mom along) to quickly see what there was to see. The building was the usual layout, multiple stories with the assemblies on either end and exhibits dotted throughout the floors. Mom decides to go take a picture of a life-size buffalo in the corner, and while doing so, the Chief Investment Officer comes up from the nearby stairs, greets us, and offers to take a picture of us in front of the bison. He was very friendly and had a very forward personality. We were telling him of our adventures and that I’m on a quest to see all 50 capitols. As friendly as all get out, he asks if I would like to go up into the dome and sign my name. I thought he was joking, but soon Mom and I found ourselves being led up the elevator and up the “forbidden” stairs leading to another series of railings to the dome. Mom just went up the first flight of stairs into the base, but I was able to go all the way up to the top where I could look out the portholes, take pictures and sign/date my name (along with the hundreds of others that got the privilege to do so). That was a super-cool opportunity and I forever thanked the CIO for that. We took pictures of both assemblies from the balcony before our final departure.

Now it was REALLY late, so Fort Laramie NHP was no longer an option at this point (which was a last minute tentative addition anyway so it’s not like I had to fill any more expectations for the day). We fueled up the van in Wheatland, WY around 6:00pm and watched a sinking sunset behind the distant Rockies as we hit Hwy 18/20 east, concluding the drive with the final 40 miles to the small town of Lusk, WY. It was dark by the time we arrived at the hotel (and for the 2nd night, the “No Vacancy” sign was displayed. Good thing for reservations!) Being so late, we took the easy route and grabbed a Subway for dinner.

OK, tomorrow has only one thing on the agenda, so hopefully it shouldn’t be this crazy, and hopefully I won’t go crazy trying to keep all my stuff from getting lost. Sometimes I worry too much about organization.

It wasn’t necessary to leave early today so we took our time getting re-organized and out of the hotel shortly before 10:00am MDT. It was an effortless right turn on Hwy 85 to shoot straight up the eastern edge of Wyoming. From there we took the scenic Wyoming 505 over to I-90, and then immediately on to Hwy 14, which is the main road that leads to the famous Devil’s Tower National Monument.

This has long been a natural feature I’ve wanted to see for years, so it was satisfying to watch the tower materialize into view on our approach. Apparently everyone else had the same idea because there were tons of visitors here. It was a brief line to get past the entrance booth, and then we head up to the… oh wait, more construction one-lane road flagmen fun! Hold a few minutes please… OK let’s try that again. We head up the final 3 miles to the Visitor Center. Once we parked and ran through the Visitor Center displays, while gawking at the massive tower of rocks to our east, we noticed several climbers on the west face of the tower. I knew that people climb the tower all the time, but actually seeing it in action for yourself makes you wonder how crazy they really are.

Shortly after 2:00pm, my folks and I brave up and begin the 1.3 mile loop around the tower over a paved trail. For the most part it was a pleasant stroll, grabbing pics of many angles of the tower, prayer shawls hung from the trees, and other features of the hosting forest and valleys. Only near the end did we start feeling tired from the rolling elevation changes along the path, but we emerge from the trail 90 minutes later, victorious.

Back down we go… (hold on, another 10 minutes waiting our turn on the one-lane road…) and then stopped at Prairie Dog Town, which is a field on both sides of the road where hundreds of the little critters were popping up out of their holes, standing on their hind legs looking around, or of course eating. We got some good close-up pics of those and headed onward, over to the Devil’s Tower Trading Post just outside the park boundaries. Here we used up another hour looking for souvenirs. I even found the elusive state magnets I’ve been trying to collect for a while now. Yep, I’m not sticking to my budget very well, haha.

Time to go! We left Devil’s Tower and got back to I-90 west, using that to drive all the way to Sheridan, WY, arriving at 6:20pm. We grabbed a prime rib buffet dinner at the hotel’s restaurant, and are preparing for tomorrow’s adventure. I think it will be a good night’s sleep.

So from now on, just assume there’s construction holding us up somewhere on any given day, unless I explicitly say there isn’t. It seems that every county in every state is either preparing the roads for winter, or tearing up one side of the interstate. The orange cones are out in full force this week.

===== Part 1 =====

We left our hotel just after 9:00am MDT, probably a little later than we should have, but we’re still trying to find our groove with the daily routine. It also didn’t help that we needed more cooler ice at Wal-mart, and fueled up once again before continuing on I-90 west. Thirty minutes later, we’re able to use the turnouts on the highway to stop and take pictures of the signs at the Montana border (as well as the Wyoming sign on the opposite side). No more Wyoming on this trip.

Not long after, we reach Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument. As someone with barely-average history grades, I knew very little about the final standoff between Custer’s 7th Calvary and the Lakotas/Cheyenne. Not only were there many details to learn about June 25, 1876, but walking the trail among where all the warriors had fallen, including Custer himself, leaves a real impression and gives a deep sense of impact on how critical this battle was. There is also a 5-mile driving tour with several points along the way that eventually leads to the Reno-Benteen battlefield, which complemented the events of Custer’s Last Stand. You’ll see a plethora of markers between the two battlefields where soldiers had fallen, including a group of them near the battle involving Crazy Horse. If you’re into this kind of history, you absolutely can’t miss Little Bighorn. The Monument also has a sizable National Cemetery, similar in design to Arlington. And of course there’s the Visitor Center with exhibits and 25-minute presentation as well, and ranger talks if you feel inclined to stick around for that sort of thing. You’ll need to allow at least half a day for this. We stayed here far longer than anticipated. Of course, stopping at the trading post across the street from the entrance didn’t help matters either.

===== Part 2 =====

At 3:25pm we were on our way to the second stop of the day, continuing on I-90 west until making a hairpin curve to the beginning of I-94, thus beginning our easterly route of the trip. Soon after, we finally reach the mysterious Pompeys Pillar National Monument. As much as my dad has read about Lewis & Clark, he had never heard about this place. (I hadn’t either, until looking at the map to see what was on this leg.) We pulled up to the Monument just before 3:30pm (relatively late for us). I honestly didn’t know what to expect. I figured this place was small enough that an hour would be spent here, tops.

Well, the prospect of a 3:30pm ranger tour had changed that idea. We blindly decided to follow the tour group and discover what we could learn. Our ranger was very well-versed and excited to tell the stories of William Clark (of Lewis & Clark) who came through here with his expedition. We didn’t know until we got to the stairs that all of us had to walk 100+ steps to get to the very top of the Pillar. My folks decided to give it a shot, struggled just a bit, but got to the top without too much trouble. Views were magnificent all around, and the ranger explained the origins of naming the pillar after Sacagawea’s offspring, how it was used as a watchtower since the only dip in the miles-long ridge was right there next to the pillar, and how/why it was signed by the first people to come through. They have Clark’s actual signature on the pillar, behind locked glass, which is good because that’s the only hard evidence proving he and his team were there to stake the Louisiana Purchase claim. After the tour concluded, we walked over to Yellowstone River for some decent shots, but the mosquitos made sure we kept our visit brief. We turned back to the Visitor Center and bought our usual goodies, and finally left shortly after 5:00pm.

That wouldn’t be so bad, except we have almost 200 miles to go! Glendive, MT is our next stop for the night (and it’s a Comfort Inn instead of Best Western) so it takes almost 3 hours to get to our hotel. Once again it was dark upon arrival, so we headed right back out after check-in and sat down at a Pizza Hut. (I know, I know, I said we’d do more local stuff but when there’s not much time in the evening, it’s gotta be quick and easy.)

Just one thing on the list again tomorrow, but there’s 2 units so I haven’t yet decided if we want to do both. Depends on how much the first one takes. And who knows how that will work out. Oh well, spontaneity may have to play a role in what we do.

I think 9:00am is our natural go-to for starting the day, and that works fine, as long as there’s just one planned event.

We jumped back on I-94 East after again filling up the minivan in Glendive, MT. Not long after, we stopped at the border sign for North Dakota. This is a new state for both of my folks, and I haven’t been here since the 48-state trip, so it’s time to get hopping with some fresh territory. Onward we marched another 25 miles and exited to the primary feature for the day, Theodore Roosevelt National Park. If you don’t know much about the 26th US President, you sure will after going through this landmark. He is apparently responsible for bringing into existence several other National Parks and Monuments, so it’s quite fitting that the area where he roamed be named in honor of him.

After walking through the visitor center and Roosevelt’s cabin (mostly original with some authentic furniture) we headed into the park’s South Unit around a 36-mile loop. Although we haven’t yet visited Badlands National Park (coming in a few days), this park seems to be a little preview of what to expect, as the overlooks show some of these painted hills expanding out for miles. The only hike we did (if you want to call it that) was the short walk to the top of Buck Hill, one of the highest points in the park (although it is a steep incline so beware) but the payoff is a 360° view of the park, although you may have to brave the wind.

We did see pockets of feral horses feeding around the park, and there are several Prairie Dog Towns where the rodents are doing their usual thing, but the highlight was the last Prairie Dog Town, where there was also a huge herd of buffalo feeding. By the time we drove (at a crawl) close enough to take some good pictures, they were crossing the road in front of us and behind us, which was pretty cool. Luckily no cars were coming up from behind, so we were able to stop in the middle of the road and just enjoy being in the moment with these magnificent animals.

That’s all for this park! We pick up a few souvenirs in Medora and get back on I-94 east, at least for a few minutes. We exit again and check out the Painted Canyon Overlook, which is technically still in the park and offers a vast expanded view of more badlands. My wide angle lens gets a workout.

At this point I’ve made the executive decision not to visit the North Unit, basically for lack of time. We continue east on I-94 and cross into the Central Time Zone, losing another hour. Thankfully it isn’t too long before we reach the capital of Bismarck after 5:00pm CDT. We check in and find Famous Dave’s BBQ for dinner, with a very exuberant (and excellent) waiter.

Tomorrow should be fairly easy, at least in my opinion. We’ll find out soon if I’m blowing smoke.