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  1. Default

    glc, I was planning to get the smallest trailer, as I was able to put most of my items inside the car when I was crossing the mountains. There is no need for anything larger, and I really believe that I can manage it.

    Southwest Dave, I am in the unique position that I really can take my time. I want to be smart about it. I was totally fine with up to six days of travel.

    Midwest Michael, despite the fact that the engine is seriously underpowered on mountain passes, I was able to use it hilly country for twenty years with very few problems. Yes, I lost a heat shield once, replaced an alternator, and had the standard wear-and-tear things. Whenever I do up the math to get a new car, however, the math works out like this:

    A) Cost to get a new car=monthly payment +insurance rate hike times twelve months.
    B) Cost to keep this car=regular maintenance+repair.
    IF the total in (B) exceeds costs total in (A) twice within a two-year period, it then makes sense to get a new car. If it does not, then it makes more economic sense to nurse that poor old car and save carefully.

    Either I lucked out with the one decent car in the lot, or I am just really good at maintenance...but my next car has got to be a 6-cylinder.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Green County, Wisconsin
    Posts
    13,217

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by glc View Post
    Michael, I don't know why yours was so bad, but I just found out that the early Sportage was based on a Mazda chassis and had a Mazda engine.
    I remember knowing that Mazda was involved in the Sportage, which was one of the things that was appealing to me at the time - I'd had a Mazda before, and I've had several since - but even a good backbone doesn't help if you're putting it all together in as cheap and as shoddy of a way possible. I knew people who had early 2000's Sportages too, with similar (bad) luck. I think they probably improved once it basically became a rebranded Hyundai (2005-), but I know there is nothing that will ever convince me to by a Kia or Hyundai again.

  3. Default Incidentally

    Incidentally, if things get hairy, I have already decided to attach my car to a U-Haul truck and drive that - more expensive but I don't mind that.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    4,675

    Default

    I'm going to chime in here and recommend the U-Haul truck and car trailer option. It will save you mileage on your Kia and you won't have all that worry about making it up the mountains!

    That said -- You'll do yourself, and your Kia, a big favor if you tow it FOUR UP. I know it's cheaper to rent a tow dolly, but woe to you if you have to back up. You'll have to disconnect a tow dolly-and-car in order to back up! Go for the slightly more expensive trailer and put all 4 wheels up. You can put lightweight stuff in your car, such as your overnight suitcase, but don't overload the car on the trailer.


    Donna

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Joplin MO
    Posts
    9,413

    Default

    If you tow the trailer, do not load up the car, put all your heavy stuff in the trailer. This will reduce the gross weight of the car itself which is easier on the suspension. Only 10 to 15% of the weight of the trailer is on the tongue.

  6. Default

    I posted this ages ago, and got some great feedback. Moving day is approaching, and I am finally going home to California. So far, I will travel the following route: I'll end day 1 in Williston (I have to drive down from Saskatoon now, not from Regina, which screws up my entire initial plan). Follow the 85 downward to Cheyenne, Then get onto I-20, then onward to Albuquerque/Gallup/home.

    I am not sure if I need to avoid Raton Pass. The reviews say that it's a relatively easy pass, you're just already at a really high elevation, and should watch out for snow and get off the road if it happens. So far, weather predictions for my trip are dry after the Dakotas, and I have chains at the ready if need be.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Green County, Wisconsin
    Posts
    13,217

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    Taking US-85 through the Black Hills seems like a bad idea to me. You're taking about taking a 2 lane road through the heart of a mountain range - including 6,200 ft. pass. And since it's not an interstate you're not going to have the same limits on grades and curves, and you're going to be less likely to have cell reception if something does go wrong.

    I assume you mean I-25, not I-20, once you get into Wyoming, but while Raton Pass could be an issue, if you're heading onto Gallup, you need to keep in mind, there are also 2 more 7,000+ foot mountain passes on I-40 west of Albuquerque.

    I really think you would be significantly better off following the I-94 to I-15 route that GLC previously mentioned. That's going to be quite a bit less mountainous than the route you're looking at taking right now.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Green County, Wisconsin
    Posts
    13,217

    Default

    BTW, this thread contains a great look at the elevation changes you'll see between Albuquerque and California on I-40.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Joplin MO
    Posts
    9,413

    Default

    If you are leaving from Saskatoon, take SK-7 to Rosetown, SK-4 to Swift Current, TC-1 to Medicine Hat, AB-3 to Taber, AB-36 to Warner, AB-4 to the border at Coutts, then I-15 as I previously recommended. This keeps you on Interstates through the mountains. The only non-Interstate quality roads will be in Canada.

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