CORDES
JUNCTION , ARIZONA —
Over one thousand years
ago, southwest Indians built cities into canyon walls.
They did this for several reasons, among them efficient use
of land and resources. Today, north of Phoenix, architect
Paolo Soleri is building a city the same way they did, and
for some of the same reasons.
Arcosanti is located about two miles from
Cordes Junction, Arizona. Since 1970, it's been Soleri's
ongoing experiment in "arcology," his term for the
synthesis of architecture and ecology. Arcology embodies the
idea that the design and construction of a habitat, and the
way it functions, should both be driven by its natural setting.
Newsweek magazine, according to Arcosanti's brochure, said
that Soleri's work "is probably the most important experiment
undertaken in our lifetime."
After 35 years, Arcosanti's buildings cover
25 acres, and Soleri owns the surrounding 4,000, which
provide a buffer to protect Arcosanti's future and room for
completing Soleri's plan. The latest model envisions a self-contained
city of 5,000 people. Today, only a fraction of it has been
built. His ideas seem to be working, although not as quickly
as he must have hoped. Today, 103 residents call Arcosanti
home and a number of others work there each day.
The brochure says hours and tours vary.
I arrived at 1:20, expecting a scheduled hourly tour at 2:00.
I discovered the next tour was not until 3:00. I also discovered
the café was closed - not to reopen until dinner, presumably.
As long as you know this, no problem - there is food available
within a few miles in any of three directions. I suggest visitors
call ahead to see what the schedule is for that day, rather
than be surprised on arrival.
Awaiting my tour, I hiked a trail across the
canyon floor to climb the opposite wall (for photograph
opportunities). This involved negotiating a small creek by
means of some rocks. It was a pleasant hike in springtime
sunshine, but I'm sure that creek dries up as summer approaches,
and temperatures here in June would make afternoon walks an
exercise in desert survival. But in spring or fall, it's beautiful.
I found that Soleri takes no particular stock
in paint. The buildings of Arcosanti are predominantly
pre-formed natural concrete, with a solitary unfinished wood
window frame here and there. Drawings of the completed Arcosanti
depict it standing dazzling white underneath an Arizona sky,
but for now, the reality is not so pristine. While striking
and dramatic, much of the architecture is less than aesthetically
pleasing. Tour guide Josh said it was Soleri's stated opinion
that once you begin to paint, you will be painting forever
after. Here we find pragmatism encroaching upon the dream.
Soleri no doubt sees himself as a pragmatist,
but he is also a dreamer. It looks like his dream may work,
even if many of us aren't ready for his ideas yet. In the
future, when exploding populations bring increased problems
for us, Soleri's experiment in the Arizona desert may provide
insights toward practical solutions. Meanwhile, a visit to
Arcosanti is a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the pragmatic
dreamers who are living and working in the desert. Little
by little, they're creating a different style of life.
Bob
Schaller
May 1, 2005
