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Sierra dawn: Early morning just north of Owens
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We then left US-395 for CSR-136 to CSR-190
past Owens lake. Owens Lake was a broad lake of great
enough depth and extent that silver was barged across it from
the Cerro Gordo mines. The lake dried up after Los Angeles
Department of Water and Power, (LADWP), diverted its waters
and it became the youngest playa (dry lake) on Earth. The
lake muds, made in part of light ash from the volcanic formations
upstream, quickly dried and blew away, becoming the most significant
point source for dust in the continental United States. After
a significant dust event, one percent of the dust found on
the East Coast could be traced to Owens Lake! LADWP has been
sued by the Environmental Protection Agency to remediate the
problem, and several methods have been implemented. What we
saw looked like an effort to quarry dolomite from a nearby
formation and spread it over the lakebed, perhaps hoping to
cement the surface. Other parts of the lakebed seem to be
growing more saltgrass, and others are being flooded.
It's beautiful drive to Father Crowley Point
on CSR-190. Do drive all the way out to the lookout. From
there the dunes of Panamint Valley can be seen. If you are
lucky, you might see some military airpower maneuvers during
the week.
We tanked up on water at Panamint Springs
before entering Death Valley. Then we drove over Towne
Pass to Stovepipe Wells. The pass is very steep both ways
and not for the faint of heart. Only well-maintained vehicles
should attempt the grade in summer heat. Rolling down Towne
Pass with the air conditioner going full blast, you're cool
and comfy until you step outside at Stovepipe Wells. Do so,
and you'll know what the expression "stepping out into
an oven" means. This could have something to do with
why the campground at Stovepipe was completely empty.
We drove past the arrow weeds (used by
Native Americans to make arrows) of Devil's Cornfield, then
stopped at the Harmony Borax Works before winding through
Mustard Canyon. Then we took in the Furnace
Creek Visitors Center. The relief map in the middle of
the museum is a work of art, and the displays cover a wide
range of the park's history and heritage.
Next:
Furnace Creek, Badwater, Las Vegas, and the Kelso Dunes>
Mark
Helmlinger
August 7, 2005
