Six Day Trips from Phoenix,
by Jaimie Hall-Bruzenak
[Map]
If you thought Phoenix was surrounded by flat,
sandy desert, you are in for a surprise. True, there is a
desert here, but it is a lush desert where tall saguaro cacti
tower over mesquite, ironwood, creosote, and many smaller
cacti that bear vibrant blooms. Hillocks and mountains break
the view, and distant mountains promise cool forests of ponderosa
pines.
Arizona's landscape is varied and beautiful,
and you can see a lot of it in a series of day trips out of
Phoenix. Here are six good ones.
Under the Mogollon Rim
240 miles, 4.75 hours
This all-day adventure takes you through gorgeous
scenery up to Arizona's mountain country below the Mogollon
Rim. Travel via Arizona Highway 87 and return via Interstate
17 to avoid rush hour traffic. Be advised that there is only
one rest stop on Highway 87.
Highway 87 climbs up and down a series of mountains,
winding through rugged, rocky terrain. Giant saguaros grow
on steep south-facing slopes. In Payson,
Highway 260 joins Highway 87. The rim looms above the towns
of Payson, Pine and Strawberry. There are several good places
to stop and explore.
- Zane Grey fans: Stop to see a replica
of the Zane
Grey cabin on Main Street in Payson; the original burned
in the Dude fire in 1990. (The cabin is closed Tuesdays.)
- Stretch your legs at Tonto
Natural Bridge State Park, about 10 miles north of Payson.
Turn left off Highway 87/260 onto Forest Road 583. Hike
down the Gowan Trail underneath the bridge or take one of
the shorter trails above. If you pick up a sandwich in Payson
before you go, you can have a picnic in the park.
- Visit the Pine-Strawberry
Museum in Pine; hours are limited.
For an eat-in lunch, try either the Small Café
in the Twin Pines Shopping Center in Payson or the Randall
House on Highway 87 in Pine. HB's Place in Pine is good if
you are in the mood for a hamburger, and the Strawberry Lodge
in Strawberry has delicious desserts.
To return to Phoenix, continue following Highway
260 west to Camp Verde, then take I-17 south to the city.
The rest area at Sunset Point has good views; as you approach,
you might even see some pronghorn antelope.
Gallery hopping in Scottsdale
18 miles, 20 minutes
It takes only a few minutes to reach Scottsdale
from downtown Phoenix, but visiting the many art galleries
in its Old Town district can occupy you for the rest of a
leisurely day.
To explore Old Town, park your vehicle and then
make your way to the intersection of Scottsdale Road and Main
Street. The three blocks of shops on the east side of Scottsdale
comprise the Old Town District; the galleries on the west
side and along Marshall Way (paralleling Scottsdale) make
up the Arts District. The variety and quality (and prices!)
of the art found in the galleries are astounding. For lunch,
local friends recommend The Grapevine on Brown Street, Oregano's
Pizza and Pasta
Brioni.
After exploring Old Town, drive six miles to
Cosanti,
the home and studio of Paolo Soleri, whose beautiful wind
bells and wind chimes are famous throughout the Southwest.
The buildings at Cosanti represent bioclimatic architecture,
which uses design and architectural elements rather than mechanical
systems to achieve thermal comfort inside. Cosanti's innovative
construction makes use of earth-casting techniques and careful
solar orientation for a pleasant environment all year round.
Sales of wind bells in the gallery are used to support Soleri's
experimental city Arcosanti,
which is built on principles of "arcology" (Soleri's
vision of a combined architecture and ecology); it lies about
70 miles north of Phoenix, and is worth a trip another day,
if time permits. Cosanti is open seven days a week; self-guided
tours are available anytime; donations welcome.
Desert flora and fauna at Boyce Thompson
Arboretum
62 miles, 1 hour
The variety of plants that grow in the desert
is incredible, and you can see a lot of them at Boyce
Thompson Arboretum, located in Superior, east of Phoenix.
The arboretum, which covers 320 acres, is crisscrossed with
trails that lead through gardens of cacti, succulents and
other arid-land plants. There are specific areas for plants
of the Sonoran and Chihuahuan deserts, but you'll find plants
from deserts all over the world. Some are rather weird looking!
The Boojum tree from Mexico is one, towering over everything
else. It looks like a candle, though some would say it looks
like an upside-down parsnip.
The main trail takes you around the arboretum
past Ayer Lake-a desert riparian area-and a palm grove; there
is also a section called "Australian Walkabout,"
which has huge eucalyptus trees. There are many birds to enjoy
here, too. Have a seat in the Hummingbird-Butterfly Garden
and watch the hummingbirds' antics.
For lunch, you can pick up a sandwich at the
visitors center or drive to Superior, a few miles east on
Highway 160, to the Buckboard City Café and the World's
Smallest Museum, which displays artifacts from everyday
life.
If you are up for more hiking, Picket Peak, the
backdrop to the arboretum, has a strenuous four-hour, four-mile
hike
to the peak. For a moderate 4.4-mile hike in the Superstition
Mountains, take the Peralta
Trail (at the end of Peralta Road off U.S. Highway 60,
at Mile Marker 204 east of Apache Junction) to the Freemont
saddle for a stunning view of Weaver's Needle.
Whiskey Row in Prescott
100 miles, 2 hours
If you are looking for evidence of Arizona's
rich ranching history, Prescott
is the place to visit. Prescott (pronounced "PRES-cut")
sits on the edge of a large grassy bowl, nestled in Prescott
National Forest in the Bradshaw Mountains. Even with all the
development in Prescott Valley, it doesn't take too much to
imagine cowboys driving herds of cattle through the sage and
grass off in the distance, just off what is now Arizona Highway
69.
Founded in 1863, Prescott was Arizona's first
territorial capital. The Courthouse Plaza is the focal point
of old Prescott. Historic downtown buildings surround the
plaza, and Whiskey Row, a reminder of Prescott's wild mining
and ranching history, still boasts several of the 50 saloons
that once lined Montezuma Street. Art galleries and boutiques
have replaced most of the old saloons. Two of my favorite
galleries are the Arts Prescott Cooperative Gallery and Van
Gogh's Ear, both on Montezuma Street.
Prescott has many cultural events, several
museums and more than 600 buildings on the National Register
of Historic Places. Check the online
calendar for events. For lunch, a local friend recommends
the Prescott
Brewery. We've had coffee and lunch at the St.
Michael's Hotel.
For a more active day, rent a bike and ride the
Peavine
Trail, a rail trail that takes you through the beautiful
boulders of the Granite Dells. You can also find hikes
for all abilities, some close to downtown. A U.S. Forest
Service office is located two blocks south of the plaza at
344 S. Cortez St.
A little bit of Mexico in Guadalupe
13 miles, 20 minutes
The nearby town of Guadalupe makes a nice half-day
outing. If you are staying in downtown Phoenix, start with
breakfast at Matt's
Big Breakfast at First Street and McKinley. Phoenix friends
highly recommend this award-winning restaurant but advise
getting there early for a seat (closed Mondays).
Guadalupe
is a small Native American and Hispanic community located
between Phoenix and Tempe. Founded by Yaqui Indians a hundred
years ago and named for the Virgin of Guadalupe, the patron
saint of Mexico, the town maintains a strong cultural and
ethnic identity. Here you can find unique Mexican goods without
traveling to Mexico. Located along Avenida del Yaqui are roadside
fruit stands, many specialty shops and one of the only authentic
Mexican bakeries in the valley.
Be sure to stop at Guadalupe's mercado,
El Tianguis, a courtyard-style shopping center with many unusual
shops and restaurants selling Mexican pottery, Yaqui Indian
art, native and local foods and many other items. The San
Diego Bay Restaurant, located in El Tianguis, is highly rated;
it features Mexican seafood. For non-Mexican food, a local
friend recommends Claim
Jumper, just outside of town on Baseline Boulevard, as
well as the Pink Pepper's delicious Thai lunch buffet at Guadalupe
and Dobson, about five miles away.
Historic Apache Trail
198 miles, 5.75 hours
This loop takes you through spectacular scenery
on Arizona Highway 88, the historic Apache Trail. Pick up
the road in Apache Junction, 37 miles east of Phoenix. Off
to your right are the jagged peaks of the Superstition Mountains,
where the fabled Lost Dutchman's treasure is rumored to be
buried. Legend says it lies in the shadow of Weaver's Needle,
a majestic spire that dominates the skyline from this view.
Find out more at Lost
Dutchman State Park.
The Apache Trail was built between 1903 and 1905
as a supply route for the construction of Theodore Roosevelt
Dam. Less than half is paved. Along the route, stop at the
turnouts overlooking Canyon Lake and Apache Lake, or drive
down for a picnic. Tortilla Flat is an old stagecoach stop
with a museum and café. But the best part of the trip
is the scenery. The road winds up, down and around rugged
canyons abutting the Four Peaks Wilderness. The most spectacular
stretch is the descent into Fish Creek Canyon. The road drops
1,500 feet over a short distance; sheer cliffs drop off on
the outside (fortunately, you'll be on the inside). Go slow
and enjoy!
At the dam, the Apache Trail turns south towards
Globe and becomes Arizona Highway 188. A stop at Tonto
National Monument and a hike to the lower cliff dwellings
makes a nice break. Continue on to Globe to pick up Highway
60 and return to Phoenix. The Globe-Miami
area has several places of interest if you have time and
energy.
Note: 25 miles of the Apache Trail is
unpaved and includes a steep descent with sheer drop-offs.
RVs not advised on the unpaved section. Full services in Apache
Junction and Globe. Check your fuel gauge before leaving Apache
Junction.
Jaimie
Hall-Bruzenak
10/10/08
|